GregValiant 1,455
Not in Cura but yes, there is a way to start with thicker walls and then narrow them down. It's in "Advanced Gcode Splicing 401" so maybe you don't want to go there yet. As gr5 says, you do need to thicken the walls. With a .4 nozzle I've had good success with 0.6 line width. Vase mode is "single wall only" no matter what the wall thickness setting is.
Another problem is that many Silky PLA's just have poor layer adhesion. That problem can vary by color and might be what bit you there (nice looking print otherwise). You may have to bump the temperature up as well. I can run regular PLA down to 195° but silky I always start out at 215° but you could even run it up to 225 at the first layer above the base feature because there aren't any retractions and the print head never stops. It would be really gooey though.
Be careful when removing it from the bed and try to get that first layer down without adhesives. No matter what you do it's still a single wall print so it isn't going to be strong.
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gr5 2,295
I don't know the answer. There used to be a feature called "joris" and then I think it was called "spiralize" and then possibly "vase mode" and now there is a "spiralize" option again in cura but I'm not sure what it does.
At one point - before the year 2016, spiralize would thicken the base where it attaches to the walls. I don't know if it still does that. Both for strength and to make water tight.
I guess I recommend you just make the line width a bit thicker so it overextrudes as it prints. I've never done a cup or vase so I'm not an expert on this kind of thing. And maybe try out "spiralize" but it might make your vase worse. Maybe try it on some very small prints (just half hour prints).
I think most vases are done with a 0.8mm or 1mm nozzle and with a 1mm to 1.5mm line width which should make it waterproof and stronger as well but again - not an expert.
@rooiejoris is an expert but I don't think he comes to this forum anymore.
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