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Posted · Layer shifts
On 4/30/2021 at 5:31 AM, foo_bar said:

Benchy.thumb.jpg.4088c072892fea18443ad71a1cde3dfb.jpg

which settings did you use for the ship?

I'm still facing problems with the original vase gcode from sd, I tried to tighten the Y belt (1-2mm) but the drifting seems worse than before:

 

IMG-20210607-WA0009.thumb.jpg.cb6e397978d791a4ecbee69b74f7db50.jpg

 

any hint?

Thank you

 

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    Posted · Layer shifts

    I created a new topic for you as your post was off topic for where you posted.

     

    You don't want to tighten the belt - if anything that could make layer shifting worse.  Instead you want to tighten the set screws on the pulleys.  tighten the hell out of those.  Usually it's the pulley on the stepper itself.

     

    What is happening is called a layer shift and can be caused by missing steps on your stepper (quite likely) or a loose pulley (also quite likely).

     

    You can figure out which by using a sharpie to mark the shaft of the stepper and the pulley to see if it moves over time during a print that has major layer shifting (like the picture above).

     

    If it's losing steps then you need to reduce friction or lower the acceleration for the axis that is slipping.  Maybe add a drop of oil or something to the bearings/rods.  What kind of printer is this?  Is this the Y axis?  Does your printer have a moving print bed?  What is the acceleration for that axis?  It's set on the printer itself - not in cura although cura can possibly also set the acceleration but different printer types use different commands to set this parameter so I'd do it on the printer, not in cura.

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    Posted · Layer shifts

    Thank you, my printer is Selpic Star A, as mr. FooBar one's.

     

    When I tried to tighten the pulley I noticed that some of the bed screws were too loose so I tightened them a bit.

    I decided to do so to fix the bad result (1st vase image) and because mr.foobar suggested to do so in a post.

     

    I really didn't know how much I should have tightened the pulley (the regulation appear under the bed) but it seems to be a bit looser than the X axis pulley, I'm going to check all and update the firmware to Marlin 2 that allow to change accel params without reboot, the current values I used are the default by vendor fw.  

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    Posted · Layer shifts

    There's confusing between "tightening a belt" and "tightening a set screw on a pulley".  You want to tighten the set screws that keep the pulley from slipping.  But again - it could be that the stepper just can't move all the wait of the print bed and you need to lower the acceleration.  Very easy to do in the menu system on the printer.  If it's at say 1000mm/sec/sec then try 500mm/sec/sec.  Just cut the existing acceleration in half and see what happens.

     

    Also maybe ask other people with the same printer what they set the Y acceleration to.

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    Posted · Layer shifts

    Finally something is going nice:

    20210609_142607.thumb.jpg.3d7ccf83b8cf4d28890d58ddb4c364aa.jpg

    the short story: pulley and belt check and firmware Marlin 2.0 by Mr. foo bar

    the long one: I've bought the printer from kickstarter with optionals (heated bed, lcd and laser), the vendor told to update original firmware to use heated bed, after that all the trials to print the Rocket gcode weren't successful although the vase gcode were printing but badly.

    Now I ran out of the white spool and I printed the vase with the wooden filament (1kg with a bad spool holder):

    20210609_213236_2.thumb.jpg.bee415def8e4bde8059dd980e8fe5b64.jpg20210609_213230_2.thumb.jpg.7dee58c82cb5ada591e95bbde7fe1e57.jpg

     

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    Posted · Layer shifts

    Progress is good.  Now that you have a handle on the layer shift in the X Y you get to go to school on Z banding.  There looks to be spots where the Z didn't respond correctly and the result is layers that got mashed together.  It's very noticeable at the wide portion of both vase models.

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    Posted · Layer shifts

    I don't know your printer, but to see if there are no *mechanical* blockings, try switching it off, and move all things by hand. They all should move smoothly, without requiring brute force, and they should have no hard stuck points. In this way, you can often feel if something is wrong: broken bearings, incorrect axis-alignments, gears or belts blocked by dirt, too dry rods and linear bearings, too much play, etc... Things should have a precise fit with no play, but still move quite freely and smoothly, similar to cameras and microscopes, or like the mechanics in car engines. It are precision instruments. In this way you can separate mechanical from electrical/electronical issues, hopefully.

     

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