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just cut 2mm off the end of the bowden and then put it back in. No need to buy a new bowden. The S5 bowdens are significantly longer than the UMO,UM2,UM3,S3 models which have the same length bowden.
Also since you are doing this on the feeder end, you should maybe chamfer the inside of the bowden using a countersink drill bit. Or even better just use an exacto blade to cut a chamfer inside the bowden to help guide the filament into the bowden. Either way, clean it up with an exacto as you don't want a tiny piece of PFA tubing making it's way to your nozzle and causing an annoying clog only fixable with a cold pull (I'm not certain but PFA probably melts at a much higher temp than PLA).
The white collet has 4 metal blades in it. If after cutting 2mm off the end of the bowden, the bowden still has keeps popping off then you need a new collet. These are easy to find at reprap/3d printing sites. Make sure you get one for 1/4 inch I.D. tubing (6mm O.D.?) meant for 3mm filament and not for 1.75mm filament bowdens (4mm O.D.?).
3dsolex in Norway sells these collets for next to nothing. Plus they sell S5 bowdens (which come with the clips and collets) that have been pre-countersunk. Plus those bowdens are made of teflon so are super super slippery and can improve your printing performance.
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,170
just cut 2mm off the end of the bowden and then put it back in. No need to buy a new bowden. The S5 bowdens are significantly longer than the UMO,UM2,UM3,S3 models which have the same length bowden.
Also since you are doing this on the feeder end, you should maybe chamfer the inside of the bowden using a countersink drill bit. Or even better just use an exacto blade to cut a chamfer inside the bowden to help guide the filament into the bowden. Either way, clean it up with an exacto as you don't want a tiny piece of PFA tubing making it's way to your nozzle and causing an annoying clog only fixable with a cold pull (I'm not certain but PFA probably melts at a much higher temp than PLA).
The white collet has 4 metal blades in it. If after cutting 2mm off the end of the bowden, the bowden still has keeps popping off then you need a new collet. These are easy to find at reprap/3d printing sites. Make sure you get one for 1/4 inch I.D. tubing (6mm O.D.?) meant for 3mm filament and not for 1.75mm filament bowdens (4mm O.D.?).
3dsolex in Norway sells these collets for next to nothing. Plus they sell S5 bowdens (which come with the clips and collets) that have been pre-countersunk. Plus those bowdens are made of teflon so are super super slippery and can improve your printing performance.
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