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3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended


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Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

Hi

Yesterday I installed the 3DSolex Kit - heater block, 0.4 nozzle, PTK spacer and I2K insulator, original heat cartridge with thermal paste. It states that I can print with a lower temperature but with the same temp than before I am getting heavy skipping steps.

I have a UM2E with original extruder stepper motor (0.9º) coupled to a DDG Bondtech via a adapter found on YouMagine. 

When I installed the DDG I don’t know why I got missing steps also - I could never understand why, since the Bondtech DDG is geared.

I’m running the last stable Tinkercad firmware.

Any clues?

Thank you.

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Hi @my3DBr

     

    How many E-steps are you using with this setup?

    They advice E-steps for an UM2+ to be "311", but this is for an 1.8 deg/step motor. (200 step/360 deg)

    Found here:

    https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddg-extruder/

     

    As you have the old stepper (from UM2E) that's 0.9 deg/Step. (400 step/360 deg)

    According to this, -you'll need to double the number of steps by 2, I.E. E=2*311E=622 E-step, for your setup.

     

    If the E-step setting is too high, the stepper may miss step.

    Also, if the current setting is too low you may see missed step.

    Normal current setting for the feeder stepper motor (E1 or E2) is 1200 mA.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

     

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    1) What Torgeir said about the steps/mm.

    2) The bondtech is skipping?  Really?  Is the tension half way up the scale as described here? http://www.bondtech.se/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Bondtech-DDG-Ultimaker-V1.0.1.pdf

     

    Is it possible the filament is slipping through the feeder and the stepper isn't actually going backwards?

     

    3) When you use the i2k you should cut off part of the teflon part by the same amount.  So if the i2k is 1mm thick then slice off 1mm from the teflon part.  If you don't do this - particularly on the "plus" series printers like yours, that aluminum spacer can't compress and you have MUCH too much pressure on the teflon and it tightens/pinches/grips around the filament.

     

    4) Is your teflon part new or old.  You say it is "PTK" but I'm not sure what that means.  There is the Ultimaker spacer and the 3dsolex spacer - both are great but need to be replaced regularly (like every 200 to 500 hours of printing).

     

    The easiest way to diagnose is to put the filament half way down the bowden.  Have the extruder move it forward with MOVE command and then fight that with your hand by pulling down on the filament just below the feeder.  You should be able to pull 5kg or 10 pounds of force without the feeder skipping.  If it skips then something is wrong with the extruder.

     

    If it doesn't skip then it's the print head.  I suspect the print head but it could be either.

     

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Thank you guys.

    Here is the thing:

    A. I have calculated de e-steps accordingly, it seems right (at 652.92) - extruding 120mm, seeing what's left etc...

    B. I am using tinker gnome and the current for E1 is set at 1250ma.

    C.2) Yes, the tensioner was way up, leaving it's grip soft.

    Yes, you are right, it seems the filament slips through the bond tech gears making a weird sound that was not the motor skipping steps (although very similar sometimes).

    I disassembled the extruder to see if I could find something, and I think that due to a high pressure in the Bowden the filament tends to curve and then it dislodge both gears, taking them apart and loosening the pressure making the weird sound.

    Why am I getting such pressure inside it?

    3) I am using the 3D Solex combo I2k insulator + TFT255C PTE Coupler. Brand new. I really did not know I has to cut a peace of the teflon out, since at the 3D Solex site is states "Usage: Unplug PTFE from steel coupler, insert I2K, re-insert PTFE. Finished.  Steel coupler must be turned all the way down to block, and only half turn back up allowed for sync in dual setup."

    And that was it. I screwed the coupler all the way, inserted the insulator, then the new special PTFE. The spring is very compressed - I don't have that spacer, still going with the spring.

    So as you say, it might be the pressure on that system caused by not cutting a piece oh the teflon, reflecting on a hight pressured extrusion?

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Hi @my3DBr,

     

    I'll think @gr5, nailed your problem.

     

    You should get read of that spring and use a steel spacer -as it will increase the life length of your coupler(s).

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

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    Posted (edited) · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Thank you for your time @Torgeir. There is one last thing to experiment: the extruder force. I am going to make the @gr5 experiment and give you some feedback. And print or buy said spacer.

    Edited by my3DBr
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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    You're welcome.

    I printed this spacer, however it started to crimp due to the heat -so I just bought the spacer to avoid leakage..

    With your new Bondtech, I'll think a steel spacer is a must -due to the hi pressure it can make.

     

    Good luck.

    Torgeir

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    I think the spring is better than the spacer personally.  Just slice off a bit of the teflon and that will help quite a bit.

     

    If you do want to print a spacer, I designed this one and it works quite well in ABS (I have green abs filament):

     

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement

     

    But really the spring is great.  It's very powerful so if you compress it an extra 2mm thats... too much.

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    Posted (edited) · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Appreciated guys. So @gr5 you really think that I have to slice a piece of the Teflon out? Better slice the old PTFE or that brand new modified from 3D Solex? Maybe try it out with the old one (it is in good condition) first?

    Edited by my3DBr
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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    I’ll send some pics later when I get home.

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Don't "test" the teflon based on how it looks.  Push hard on the end that gets hot and see if it is softer.  If it deforms easier.  Push very hard.

     

    If you are just trying out the i2k I suppose only cut one of the teflon parts but then if you like it you can cut all the teflon parts going forwards.  Of course you should never need to buy another if you keep temps below 300C.

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    Posted (edited) · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    I am afraid to get it wrong and ruin the special Teflon - for me from Brazil it is expensive and takes a long long time to arrive…

    The grate advantage for me is to avoid repetitive maintenance. Aiming to print in PLA and ABS (just bought a door for “enclosure”) although I did not printed ABS yet. So, yes, temps below 300 C.

    That is what get me: a time proof set.

    Edited by my3DBr
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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    Well you really have to do it to one of your teflon parts.

     

    Ultimaker considers the teflon an "expendable" like filament.  The expect you to buy a new one with maybe every 3rd order of filament?  I'm not sure what they expect.  Because it is expendable, most companies (think inkjet printers) would charge extra but Ultimaker does the opposite and sells these at a very reasonable price.

     

    Anyway I would definitely cut the teflon on one of these.  Carefully.  With a razor blade style knife.

     

    I would do it to the used teflon because you will mostly be throwing away the "bad" part of the used teflon.  The teflon stays mostly new except for the hot end.

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    Posted · 3DSolex kit on Ultimaker 2 extended

    That is a good way to think about it. Thank you gr5. As soon as I get some time I'll do it. 

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