Ultimaker 2 Massive Printer-Head Temperature Fluctuations

[Innhoster 0]

I replaced my original print head on my printer with the the closest model available (Ultimaker 2+), I'm not sure if they're is anything different but now the hot-end has serious trouble maintaining a steady temperature, causing ribbed edges on the sides of prints. When a print begins, it does a massive spike (35+ Celsius over setting) and then continuously fluctuates around 10 under to 20 over the mark. I checked the motherboard and the connections seem fine. I've never done any update to the printer, simply changed out the print-head. Anything I might be missing? 

[IRobertI 520]

The 2+ head uses a more powerful heater and a slightly different PT100-sensor. You might need to do a PID tuning on it. Unfortunately I don't have a link with instructions ready to go but I know it has been talked about on the forums  before so search for something like "PID autotune" or "PID tune" will probably get you pointed in the right direction.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

If you still use the black square feeder of the UM2 you also could replace that one with the UM2+ feeder and then use the UM2+ firmware since those two things make the difference between the UM2 and the UM2+.

[Innhoster 0]

Hey guys So I'm trying to do a PID auto-tune and I'm getting the error of the auto-tune failing due to the temperature is too high. 

I type in "M303 S215 C10" into the Repetier command g-code area and it starts, I watch the temp rocket past the 215 target but under the max of the extruder and it cancels the auto-tune. I'm trying to look around and see what is wrong, It seems like some kind of power output problem from the posts I'm looking up but it's getting so advanced so fast I have no clue what to google for that's comprehensible. Additionally, I've tried updating the firmware of the printer to UM2+ and it just becomes unresponsive. So I have to revert to UM2 Firmware. What should I do next? Any possible links that may help me comprehend some underlying factors so I can better wrap my head around troublshooting this?

[Torgeir 242]

Hi @Innhoster

 

So you've only updated the print head from the UM2+ kit?

 

You have to choose firmware for an UM2 with an Olson heat block..

 

Make sure you have installed an UM2 printer with Olsson block in your Cura slicer.

Select the printer in Cura and update your firmware like this;

 

 

That should do it.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[Innhoster 0]

Strange, I had upgraded my original printer-head with an Olsson block a while ago without any firmware update and hadn't had problems. Guess I got lucky. It is doing way better to try and stay within' the mark (10 degree fluctuation instead of the 30 degree). I'm going to try a print and see how it goes, though the fluctuation still seems a bit high. Thanks again!

 

[Torgeir 242]

Hi @Innhoster

 

If you just bought the Olsson block kit and used the old heater and PT100 temp sensor as I did, it will work well.

Because there is not "much" different in between the old block mass and the Olsson block mass.

I did just that and have a temp variation of 1 deg Celsius up or down from the preset temperature during normal printing.

 

However, if you have an air pocket (if the temp sensor fit too loosely) the sensing will be delayed and the temperature may fluctuate. To fix such a problem you may use copper paste as a heat sink compound -and can actually be used on the heater as well. This treatment will improve the thermal efficiency for the heat block and improve the temperature regulation.

 

Note well!

After such treatment, use a cotton rag to wipe off the excess grease. You'll need to heat up the nozzle to normal printing temperature in order to dry out the light oil substances that's part this grease. Make sure you have good ventilation as it might ooze a little when starting to heat the nozzle block. Increase the nozzle temperature in step by step slowly. Have a cotton rag ready to collect any spillage escaping from the block.

 

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Long ago I'd read in here that you should not use copper paste on the heater as this paste will harden up!

 

This is absolutely nonsense and cannot be copper pasta.

Copper pasta will withstand temperatures up to 1100 deg Celsius before begins to decompose. 

Besides, we are using temperatures very far from this temperature area.

I've used copper pasta this way all the time since I've built my printer in 2015.

No problem removing the heater or the temp sensor.

 

I can set the temperature for PLA to 209 deg. Celsius and print with a filament flow of 10 mm³/sec.

 

This when using 0.4 mm nozzle and the 25 watt (original) heat element for UM2.

 

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

Edited August 21, 2021 by Torgeir
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