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klipperdeklip

Extrusion gear stops when starting to build an object

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Hello everyone,

After building the 3D printer i ran into a problem trying to print my first object. I used the wall.stl file given in the tutorial of ultimaker itself with software ReplicatorG 0024. The ultimaker is running on 5D, which was given standard. The problem is the extrusion gear. When i start to build everything runs smoothly. ReplicatorG is slicing the object and sending it to the ultimaker. The ultimaker first goes to the middle and the extrusion gear runs a bit to put some pla in the nock of the extrusion head. After that the extrusion head is making squares but the extrusion gear stops and won't turn anymore. Next he is just printing the square but without PLA. What am i doing wrong? I guess it has something to do with the program settings of replicatorG but can't find what exactly to change.

Thanks in advance,

Matthijs

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Most likely cause is the "dimension" module being disabled. Enabling it should work.

You can see this by checking the generated GCode file, it should have "E...." after G1 commands up from line 30 or so. (with a number on the dots)

You can also jump on the SkeinPyPy(Cura) wagon:

https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki

which will upgrade you to Marlin. Give you a better GUI. And nicer prints. It's a tiny bit harder to get from model to print (workflow is not at streamlined as RepG yet) but it's much easier on you with settings.

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Thanks for your quick reply. Unfortunately this doesn't fix the problem. It does actually fix it a tiny bit. The gear is now moving once a few minutes but after turning for 2 seconds it instantly stops again. Any other solutions? In the commands it does end with a number starting with E but after that numbers start with F. Example:

G1 X-10.19 Y11.02 Z0.3 F3000.0 E93.523

G1 X-10.36 Y10.98 Z0.3 F3000.0 E93.739

G1 X-10.67 Y10.8 Z0.3 F3000.0 E94.189

G1 X-10.9 Y10.52 Z0.3 F3000.0 E94.642

G1 X-11.02 Y10.19 Z0.3 F3000.0 E95.082

G1 X-11.02 Y0.11 Z0.3 F3000.0 E107.691

this is only the beginning, then it continues the rest with this:

;M103

M104 S245.0

M104 S243.058

G1 X-11.4 Y0.11 Z1.0 F68.353

G1 X-11.4 Y10.23 Z1.0 F1500.0

G1 X-11.34 Y10.49 Z1.0 F1500.0

G1 X-11.23 Y10.71 Z1.0 F1500.0

G1 X-11.09 Y10.91 Z1.0 F1500.0

G1 X-10.91 Y11.09 Z1.0 F1500.0

G1 X-10.71 Y11.23 Z1.0 F1500.0

G1 X-10.49 Y11.34 Z1.0 F1500.0

etc.

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Open a window. And shout "CURSE YOU ENRIQUE!". Close window. Feel a bit relieved.

Simply said, you have a setting wrong in Skeinforge somewhere. Which setting? I wouldn't know, most likely a flowrate setting somewhere. The way Skeinforge stores it settings is so backwards it's hard to reset to proper defaults, and hard to diagnose what's the problem. And simply hard to work with for anyone involved. Including the people working on RepG.

I don't like pushing my software onto people. But SkeinPyPy Beta4 will solve this for you.

https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki

I hope you run windows. As this will make it very easy.

You'll just have to follow these 24 simple steps:

1) Download

https://github.com/downloads/daid/Cura/ ... -Beta4.zip

2) Extract it somewhere

3) Start the "SkeinPyPy.bat"

4) Walk trough the "first run wizard", installing new firmware, and testing your machine. But just skip the final "calibration" step, the default will be good enough for you.

5) Load an STL file you want to print.

6) Don't touch any settings.

7) No DON'T

8) Press "Slice to GCode"

9) Now, at the location where you found "SkeinPyPy.bat", you'll also find "PrintRun.bat"

10) Run it.

11) Select the proper serial line, and press "connect"

12) Use the "load" button to load the generated GCode file. It's called [model_file]_export.gcode, and it's next to your STL file you loaded in step 5

13) Make sure your printer works by pressing the X home and Y home button.

14) Set the temperature to 230C, and press the "SET" button next to it.

15) Check the "monitor printer" checkbox in the upper right corner.

16) Wait till the temperature reaches 230C

17) Disable the "monitor printer" checkbox

18) Press print

19) See a perfect printed box

20) Be amazed

21) Print a yoda

22) Print a yoda again, but at 0.1mm layers instead of the default 0.2mm

23) Be even more amazed

24) Promise me beer.

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Open a window. And shout "CURSE YOU ENRIQUE!". Close window. Feel a bit relieved.

...then send him a check (or a TY anyway) because, really, most of us wouldn't be here doing this stuff without his years of work.

 

G1 X-11.02 Y0.11 Z0.3 F3000.0 E107.691this is only the beginning, then it continues the rest with this: ;M103M104 S245.0M104 S243.058G1 X-11.4 Y0.11 Z1.0 F68.353

 

M104 is the code to Set Temperature. This is followed by some slow movement commands so it's probably doing orbits, which are used to waste time while the extruder gets to the new temperature.

1: go through the temperature module and just set all the values to the same number - try 230.. The 245 you have in there is probably hotter than you want

2: still in Temperature, set both the heating and cooling rates to 100. This esentially tells SF that you don't want to wait for temperature changes

3: in Cool, change Cool Type to 'Slow Down'

4: tell us how/if that worked

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I'm back on the 3D printer on tuesday so i'm afraid i will know the solution than. Unfortunately I'm running on mac so can't run SkeinPyPy ( sorry daid ). I will try the temperature setting though, will this also fix the extrusion gear then? I'm also trying to upload the marlin firmware to the ultimaker because of it's known as smoother printing. But first I would like to see just my first 3D print! Thanks already!

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Open a window. And shout "CURSE YOU ENRIQUE!". Close window. Feel a bit relieved.

...then send him a check (or a TY anyway) because, really, most of us wouldn't be here doing this stuff without his years of work.

Have you had contact with him? Because I have. He seems to be quite a bit of out touch with what 3D printers are doing right now. He doesn't even have a 3D printer. His latest "updates" are just patches submitted by other people (without updating credits, documentation, or much checking what the changes do). And his code is a general mess.

I don't mind if people no longer want to develop something they started. But he also doesn't hand the project over to other people. He also hates source control because "when he setup a public writable SVN people make a mess of it".

About the whole extruder not running. It has nothing to do with "F0", there is no F0 in his snippet of GCode. And there are missing Exxx values in there. The first few seem to be the skirt. The rest must be the print. It has to do with "flowrate", start with making sure "enable flowrate" is set somewhere. And no flowrate values are 0.

To explain what those commands are "G1" means "move", the X/Y/Z are the position. The F value is the speed in mm per minute. And the E value is how far the extruder motor most turn for this move, compared to the previous E value.

Another thing you could try, is to close down RepG. Remove the .replicatorg and .skeinforge directories from your home directory. And restart RepG. Hopefully this resets everything to defaults.

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Open a window. And shout "CURSE YOU ENRIQUE!". Close window. Feel a bit relieved.

...then send him a check (or a TY anyway) because, really, most of us wouldn't be here doing this stuff without his years of work.

Have you had contact with him? Because I have. He seems to be quite a bit of out touch with what 3D printers are doing right now. He doesn't even have a 3D printer. His latest "updates" are just patches submitted by other people (without updating credits, documentation, or much checking what the changes do). And his code is a general mess.

I don't mind if people no longer want to develop something they started. But he also doesn't hand the project over to other people. He also hates source control because "when he setup a public writable SVN people make a mess of it".

I haven't talked to him since last summer, when he (very quickly!) fixed some issues Ultimakers users were having.

Don't know what to say about the rest of the comment - he's still put years of work into this stuff and most of us still wouldn't be here doing this stuff without the work he did. Yes, it's slow and the UI isn't overly pretty but it's not rocket science - lots of people use it all the time and it's still the most reliable slicer around.

 

Another thing you could try, is to close down RepG. Remove the .replicatorg and .skeinforge directories from your home directory. And restart RepG. Hopefully this resets everything to defaults.

Or just do the temperature & cool stuff I said earlier up this thread.

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I have exactly the same issue, pla runs like a tap during the warm up stage, but once the head moves to the print process, the pla seems to stop flowing, no feed reel turning, I spent a day trying alternate firmware and software. I will run through these ideas. It's interesting that your machine is a march 2012 ish release, based on your post date, mine too is of this era. I am running mine with cura, did all the setup checks fine, then come the big moment of print.....fail. No leaking peek , feed rol does work, just not at the right time. I intend to post a video on my YouTube channel and hopefully someone can help me make a step forward and diagnose my problem. I am new to Gcode and 3 d printing, but I am computer literate, hopefully this is enough to get me going.

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sample of my gcode produced in cura, anything leap off the page as being wrong?

;TYPE:CUSTOM

M92 E857.314851485

G21 ;metric values

G90 ;absolute positioning

G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops

G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops

G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0

G1 Z15.0 F400

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length

G1 F75 E5

G1 E3.5

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again

G1 X100.0 Y100.0 F3500

G1 Z0.0 F400

G90 ;set positioning to absolute

G21 ;set units to millimeters

M105

M106

M113 S1.0

M108 S22.05

;TYPE:SKIRT

G1 X82.218 Y112.436 Z0.2 F9000.0

G1 X84.693 Y116.065 F1322.7141 E0.0551

G1 X88.074 Y117.801 E0.1028

G1 X112.111 Y117.781 E0.4043

G1 X115.371 Y115.972 E0.451

G1 X117.782 Y112.436 E0.5047

G1 X117.782 Y87.892 E0.8126

G1 X115.972 Y84.629 E0.8594

G1 X112.436 Y82.218 E0.913

G1 X87.564 Y82.218 E1.225

G1 X84.028 Y84.629 E1.2787

G1 X82.218 Y87.892 E1.3255

G1 X82.218 Y112.436 E1.6334

;TYPE:WALL-OUTER

G1 X88.823 Y89.247 F9000.0

G1 X89.196 Y89.326 F4500.0

G1 X89.326 Y89.196 F1322.7141 E1.6357

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Looks fine. If you use Cura default settings (which it looks like it) and the Cura supplied firmware, then those two things should be right. More likely your problem is not software related then (which is the whole idea about Cura, defaults are good, so you can eliminate that as a point of error)

Note that the extruder turns very slow during printing. For your example above here, it used 1.5mm of filament for the skirt. Which is only a 30 degree rotation of the big gear or so.

Few things you could check:

* Is the big gear turning?

* Is the bolt turning when the big gear turns? (the big gear can slip on the bolt if it's not tightly screw down on eachother)

* Is your temperature high enough, the printer still moves, but refuses to extrude below 170C

* The motor driver might be overheating, as I mentioned before. Some more info:

http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers

 

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thanks for the ideas Daid,

i agree, all the software side seems to run fine, bearing in mind i tried the generic repg and 5d firmware with worse results.

i uploaded a video of my trials and failures, since a video says more than words.

 

this is just the simple test thin wall piece. its a new machine and there is no way of me knowing if its a hardware fault on the board, hence my interests in the outcome of the persons machine that started this thread. any help or advice would be appreciated.

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First I notice. Your start height seems a bit high to me. It should almost touch the bed when you hit the Z limit switch. My printer even hits the bed when it reaches the limit switch, but that causes some problems.

As someone noticed on youtube already, you assembled the fan shroud wrong :p but that's not the cause of your problems. I would recommend to print slow till you resolve that with a nice printed fan shroud.

The extruder speed, seen at 12:00 seems about right for this print speed.

Tip: You will get you hands burned a few times if you keep removing the "excess" PLA like that ;-) use some pliers or a screw driver :)

The 0.5mm walled thin box is a bad start print IMHO. It's quite easy to de-attach itself from the bed. You better try to print the 20x20mm full box, which has a nice solid bottom surface to start with.

Around 8:00 I hear something interresting. It sounds like a motor is going on/off. Not sure if that's because of the GCode you're printing, or the machine itself. But if it's the machine then that sounds exactly like an overheating driver.

Another thing, at 0.1 and 0.2mm layers the first layer is almost invisible. You might want to try a 0.3mm layer print to start with. This gives a bigger material flow, which is better visible, it also makes the first layer easier to stick down.

And like florian already says on Youtube. You can adjust the first layer by hand if you just turn the Z screw by hand when printing the first layer. They do this often at Ultimaker HQ, because they don't feel like adjusting the start height.

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stop picking on my fan shroud dammit!!!! ha. it is on the right way, i just cut parts of it away , since it wouldnt assemble very well and it kept coming apart, so my plan was to print the new pla style shroud off. little did i know hard that was going to be! anyway, thanks for the input. i had spent the day trying various things out with minimal success, but still a learning curve, i will keep uploading my trials and fails on youtube so others may learn something from it. having never owned a 3d printer or been involved in them at all, i was not sure what i was looking at / for, for extruder speed, temps, smells, flow from the head, the whole nine yards. i kept coming back to the feeder seemingly not pushing the filament through, so i decided to change the filament over, to a generic one that i had bought off ebay, the difference was almost instantly seen, a few tweaks and tests later, i now have it up and running. i cant tell you how many time i adjusted that build bed, aghhh, my brain was telling me it was ok, but the results were telling me otherwise. interesting that the first lines are almost invisible, i wonder if previously i was too keen on giving up on the print, seeing it as a fail. i did let it run out for a few lines but nothing but stringers* seem to appear. i have now printed THINGS!!! and my new fan shroud is proudly in place. the PLA was that supplied by ULTIMAKER, i would of thought this to be a better quality, anyway for now its stored away! hopefully i wont be needing to stick my fingers in there* anymore, i can save them for opening a well earned beer, now i need to print that bottle top opener out! maybe another day. i look forward to exploring the rest of the ultimaker world now. thanks

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Can you tell me which PLA you had from Ultimaker? I have a big supply of Ultimaker PLA and didnt had any trouble running it.

FYI: On the forums was another person with Ultimaker PLA which varied from 2.8 to 3.1mm in thickness. He had lots of trouble with it. So maybe there was a small bad batch.

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Can you tell me which PLA you had from Ultimaker? I have a big supply of Ultimaker PLA and didnt had any trouble running it.

its the grey PLA there is no code on it to identify it better. it just has a 220 degrees rating on it.

but........

i had my calipers on it and it did measure from 2.76 to 3.08 and that was over about 10 measurements.

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Can you tell me which PLA you had from Ultimaker? I have a big supply of Ultimaker PLA and didnt had any trouble running it.

its the grey PLA there is no code on it to identify it better. it just has a 220 degrees rating on it.

but........

i had my calipers on it and it did measure from 2.76 to 3.08 and that was over about 10 measurements.

oh and i forgot to mention, the aftermarket PLA i bought is now working fine on my machine.

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I had the same issues, the extruder didn't work while trying to print. Tried it with ReplicatorG 25 and the Netfabb demo version both on Lion. Had no success and was overwhelmed by the thousand of parameters you can change. Then I read this post and tried Diad's 24-steps solution. And woohoo, it's printing!

If you want to do your first test print with no hussle, try SkeinPyPy.

So, now I do have some start to point and do my fine tuning. Thank you Diad.

vase_mini.jpg

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I have this same problem. I have had my Ultimaker since last Fall. I have been printing with it for many months without (too many) problems. I just recently updated the firmware to the latest version (Marlin rc2 - ugraded from Marlin beta2), and now, the extruder gear won't turn anymore after the print starts. It spins like crazy during the pre-print extrusion, but once it starts printing, the gear doesn't move at all. I have turned up the speed and let it print for a while to see if it was just turning slowly, but it stays on the same tooth. I am using ReplicatorG 0035. It was printing fine just before I upgraded the firmware, so I know it is not a mechanical issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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