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Ultimaker 2+ connected - bed heating stops at 40°C
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· Ultimaker 2+ connected - bed heating stops at 40°C
Your issue is most likely the sensor. If the heater fails it should give you an error message. And increased resistance anywhere in the sensor path gives you a higher temperature reading and so the printer things the bed is at the right temp when in reality it is cooler.
The sensor chip itself (PT100) is pretty much indestructable. It's usually somewhere on the path from under the printer to the sensor. The most common failure point by far is the connector on the board itself.
It sounds like you have some electronic skills. If so it's actually pretty trivial to fix. Take the bed apart - remove the 3 leveling screws. Memorize or photograph or write down where the washer and stuff go. The hardware at the 3 points is identical.
Take the bed apart and then check out the connector. There are a few types. The older types fail more often and the connector is soldered to the board. If that is your case then remove the cable and reflow the solder at all 4 points although the sensor is the smaller traces and the smaller wires.
it could be that just removing and inserting the cable will fix the problem as the problem can occur at the wire portion of the connector. The problem can also be at the other end of the wire under the printer. Or it can even be on the traces of the circuit board - you might have to run two small wires from the connector to the pt100. That has happened to one or two people. But usually reflowing the solder at the connector is the solution.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,167
Your issue is most likely the sensor. If the heater fails it should give you an error message. And increased resistance anywhere in the sensor path gives you a higher temperature reading and so the printer things the bed is at the right temp when in reality it is cooler.
The sensor chip itself (PT100) is pretty much indestructable. It's usually somewhere on the path from under the printer to the sensor. The most common failure point by far is the connector on the board itself.
It sounds like you have some electronic skills. If so it's actually pretty trivial to fix. Take the bed apart - remove the 3 leveling screws. Memorize or photograph or write down where the washer and stuff go. The hardware at the 3 points is identical.
Take the bed apart and then check out the connector. There are a few types. The older types fail more often and the connector is soldered to the board. If that is your case then remove the cable and reflow the solder at all 4 points although the sensor is the smaller traces and the smaller wires.
it could be that just removing and inserting the cable will fix the problem as the problem can occur at the wire portion of the connector. The problem can also be at the other end of the wire under the printer. Or it can even be on the traces of the circuit board - you might have to run two small wires from the connector to the pt100. That has happened to one or two people. But usually reflowing the solder at the connector is the solution.
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