printer not zero'n in

[gtolover 0]

cool thx,ill have to send tomorrow,be 3 more hours before this bear is done

thx

 

btw is a drybox worth the money spent?

Edited February 9, 2022 by gtolover

[GregValiant 1,246]

It depends on what material you print with, where you live, how fast you go through rolls, things like that.  When I bought my stove I didn't really pay attention to some of the minor controls.  I took another look when I got into 3d printing (because people were mentioning the problem) and lo and behold the Samsung has a "dehydrate" function.  It's a low temperature setting (like 115°F) and an exhaust fan runs.  It's good enough for me.  I have had problems with wet PLA (it gets really humid here) but it does take a while for it to be a problem.  PLA gets really soupy and with PETG there can be little pockets of steam that can cause issues.  It makes for bad prints.  On the other hand, if you are using a roll in a month (I go through 3 or 4) then it shouldn't be an issue.  I keep my rolls in 1 gallon ziploc bags with a couple of silica gel packets inside.  That works well for storage and the gel packs come back to life in the oven as well.

Is a drybox worth the money?  Maybe if you printed a lot of nylon or PVA.  They really suck up the moisture.  Ultimakers have a special system for those types.  Buy some big ziplocs and a new roll of filament will come with a gel packet inside.

Edited February 9, 2022 by GregValiant

[gtolover 0]

here is the file,also note when i sent to printer the bed or extruder didnt heat and once the file began the excruders moved so slow that you had to concentrate to see it move

also the support it made was really imbedded in my gdaughters bear print

also things arent printed in the middle of the bed which prevents cura from saving a large bed print [i assume] but in cura it looks like the file is taking up the whole bed but the print is only 1/4 of the bed

thx greg

 

it may not seem like it but i am making progress,lol

 

 

 

 

bigbear.3mf

Edited February 9, 2022 by gtolover

[gtolover 0]

greg notice how the print looks like it fills the bed but at the bottom its only like 65.9mm in size,i tried to go larger but cura said the file was too large to fit the print bed so it wouldnt slice it.

 

edit

i just pulled this file from the printer and it was riddled with small holes throughout it,

no setting were changed since printing the smaller bear which turned out much better

the smaller bear had a support under its chin but the bigger one did not,this is confusing.,,but no setting was changed

Edited February 9, 2022 by gtolover

[GregValiant 1,246]

Ya know @gtolover, as I previously explained - I'm old.  Teasing me with thumbnail images when I can barely see the full screen could be considered abusing your elders.

 

With the bear loaded in Cura, and with the settings as you want them - use the "File | Save Project" command and post the resultant 3mf file here I'll take a look.  If you scaled the model up there really shouldn't have been a problem.  On the other hand, scaling models down can make fine features disappear.

The gray areas around the build plate have been "disallowed".  The ones on the left and right might be there because one or the other of the extruders can't reach that area.  The front an back ones I'd have to see the 3mf file and maybe it would be cleared up.

[gtolover 0]

6 hours ago, GregValiant said:

Ya know @gtolover, as I previously explained - I'm old.  Teasing me with thumbnail images when I can barely see the full screen could be considered abusing your elders.

 

With the bear loaded in Cura, and with the settings as you want them - use the "File | Save Project" command and post the resultant 3mf file here I'll take a look.  If you scaled the model up there really shouldn't have been a problem.  On the other hand, scaling models down can make fine features disappear.

The gray areas around the build plate have been "disallowed".  The ones on the left and right might be there because one or the other of the extruders can't reach that area.  The front an back ones I'd have to see the 3mf file and maybe it would be cleared up.

greg not trying to tease anyone just trying to learn this stuff,believe me theres times when i literally wear 2 pair of glasses.

i posted the 3mf file a couple posts above but here it is again,i stayed up to 4am trying to get things understood ,seems like my biggest issue is i cant print to only 1/4 of the printer bed.

heres the file

 

bigbear.3mf

[GregValiant 1,246]

I think I found a problem.  I think we need to start at the beginning so before I go any further...

 

I notice that latest 3mf file you posted contains a "Custom FFF" printer rather than a "Bibo 2 Touch Dual Extruder" printer.  Why is that?

[gtolover 0]

im not sure honestly,i was trying hit and misses

how would i chane it?,,,reinstall cura?

 

Edited February 10, 2022 by gtolover

[GregValiant 1,246]

No, you just have to Settings / Printer / Add Printer and when the dialog comes up select "non-networked printer".  Scoll down to Bibo and click on it.  Select the Bibo 2 Dual.

 

If it isn't there (and it might not be).

 

The zip file below contains 3 files I downloaded from the "ourBibo" site.  Download the zip file and then Extract the files. 

 

After extracting make sure Cura is closed and then:

Copy "Bibo2 Dual.def.json" to the "...Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1\resources\definitions" folder.

Copy the other 2 files "Bibo1.def.json" and "Bibo2.def.json" to the "...Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1\resources\extruders" folder.

 

Start Cura.  Select "Add Printer" and then Non-networked printer.  Down the list should be a Bibo option and the "Bibo2 Dual" should be available to install.

 

There are a couple things I consider non-standard within those files but that may be because that Bibo printer has been around a while.  One thing is that it is indeed an "Origin at Center" printer.  Another is that although there are two hot ends that look to be 40mm apart, the offset for Extruder 2 is X0 and Y0.  That tells me that the firmware is handling the offset.

Here is a link to other stuff about your printer https://ourbibo.com/qa/.

 

BIBO2 Cura Definitions.zip

[GregValiant 1,246]

Here is a 3mf file.  I make no promises, but it does have a Bibo 2 Touch Dual printer.

 

When you open this file, if you have already installed the printer using the above files, then when Cura asks - select "Open as Project" and in the next dialog, click on "Update Printer" and select "Create New Printer".  That way it won't over-write anything you may have set.

 

GV_bigbear.3mf

[gtolover 0]

thx greg,it looks like you really went out of your way to help me,my only regret is i cant pay you back in some way,i do say thank you and really appreciate all the help.

ive always been on the side of mechanical things and not the software side but with the help you've given me i may just have a good chance of getting the hang of this 3d printing hobby..

may the Great one smile on those such as yourself that go out of their way to help  fellow friends..

Thank you,Greg

[GregValiant 1,246]

I humbly accept your thanks but it leads to more questions...

Does that mean it worked for you? The Bibo is installed in Cura and everything is good?

 

There is one thing about dual extruder machines you need to be aware of.  When you set Cura up to slice something and you intend to use both extruders - you must go through the Cura settings with Extruder 1 active, then click on Extruder 2 to make it active, and then go through the settings again.  There are settings that can be different for each extruder.  If you have plain old black PLA in Extruder 1 and you have silky gold PLA in Extruder 2 - you might want to have different temperature settings, different print speeds, etc.  Paying attention to the details can (not always) lead to a lot less scrap.

 

I don't know where you are or where you're from.  There was a Canadian TV show called "Red Green" who always said "Remember guys, we're all in this together."  

[gtolover 0]

yup got a full bed print going right now and so far it looks GOOD.

Im from Virginia,,,,,,

im sure there will be other bumps but it feels good to take a step forward.

[gtolover 0]

i do need to figure out if and when to use both extruders and figure out how to set the 2nd extruder temp,i think that will be one of my future endeavors,,i saw a few items that had a white body say and blue hands and feet that i thought was really cool.

but i feel i took a huge leap forward this morning thanks to you.

 

Greg

 If you scaled the model up there really shouldn't have been a problem.  On the other hand, scaling models down can make fine features disappear.

 

shouldnt this be the other way around,you lose detail scaling bigger,just curious

Edited February 10, 2022 by gtolover

[gtolover 0]

this may not be all that to some but my first real model i think looks great

with the help of gregvalient whom was very patient for my newbie ignorance

thx greg

 

 

 

[GregValiant 1,246]

Congratulations.  That is very nice.  Now you get to figure out how to get fancy with the two extruders.  That's where the fun really starts.

 

A few years ago the wife fell in love with the vintage trailer thing.  We have a 1972 Shasta Compact (boy do I have a lot of hours in that little thing) and Shasta's have wings.  I printed this wing for the roof of the tow vehicle and since we are in Florida, I thought a shark fin would be nice.  Two pauses for color changes, one pause to add the 10-24 nuts, one pause to slide in the 3/16 x 9" steel rod for a backbone, and two Search and Replaces to adjust the accel and speed as it got taller.  It set my personal record with 8 post-processors active (there are two that I always leave on).  The mount brackets are PETG but when I tried to make the big part of the fin with PETG it pulled off the bed and warped badly.  I had significant elephant ears on that one but they weren't enough to keep it from warping.  We'll see how the PLA holds up in the sun with that piece of steel running down through it.  The star is a separate print 1mm think and is glued into a pocket.  Total print time was 14 hours (if you were wondering) and I still have to do one for the right side of the vehicle.  The spring trip of the Tin Can Tourists is coming up and I think a lot of people will be jealous when they see us pulling into the septic dump station in such fine style.

 

[gtolover 0]

wow looks good,is it all one piece?,if so i envy you having a bed that size.

yeah im getting ready to go the next step in meshmixer and use an animal and cut his head and feet off and make a different color,one baby step at a time.

i cant get over how long it takes to print,the bear took almost 12 hours with a normal profile,no brim and print speed at 40.

im gonna print some socket holders as soon as i can figure out how to print without the inside mesh area.

i wish i had started this 20 years ago when my retention was better,lol

my girlfriend wants me to get a camper too and cruise for a few months,,sounds intriguing. 

seems everyone i know is making requests for me to print for them

so get a printer,right?

haha😎

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GregValiant 1,246]

The nose piece is separate (you can just see the seam).  The big piece s 229 long as that is what will fit on my bed.

 

It just isn't a fast process.  There are some things you can do.  On those pieces I made the "Infill Layer Height" 0.4 and the rest of the model is 0.2 layer height.  You can do the same with Support Infill.  The effect is that those areas only get printed every other layer.  You may be able to kick up the print speed but there is a point where artifacts from shaky mechanicals start to show up in the print.  I could have gone to a .6 nozzle to speed things up, but then I have to print slower.  The fin was at 75 with 50 for the outer walls.  There are a lot of long straight runs on the print.  When a model has a lot of curves and circles I usually print them at 50/35.

 

 

[vforcepartyrentals 0]

On 2/10/2022 at 2:47 AM, GregValiant said:

Here is a 3mf file.  I make no promises, but it does have a Bibo 2 Touch Dual printer.

 

When you open this file, if you have already installed the printer using the above files, then when Cura asks - select "Open as Project" and in the next dialog, click on "Update Printer" and select "Create New Printer".  That way it won't over-write anything you may have set.

 

GV_bigbear.3mf 2.18 MB · 5 downloads

Anything new that I can reference? seems to always say extruder 1 & 2 empty when i right click on the project.. and when i click slice and take the SD to the printer it just spends time but doesn't warm the bed or the extruders it just sits there doing nothing.

[GregValiant 1,246]

The StartUp gcode is supposed to prepare the printer to get going on a print.  (The Ending Gcode is to shut the printer down in an orderly fashion.)

Go to Manage Printers and Machine Settings.  Copy the "StartUp G-Code" from the text box (use CNTRL + V) and paste the startup here.  Maybe it needs an adjustment.

[vforcepartyrentals 0]

4 hours ago, GregValiant said:

The StartUp gcode is supposed to prepare the printer to get going on a print.  (The Ending Gcode is to shut the printer down in an orderly fashion.)

Go to Manage Printers and Machine Settings.  Copy the "StartUp G-Code" from the text box (use CNTRL + V) and paste the startup here.  Maybe it needs an adjustment.

 

Curious if I am to copy that code to each extruder's start and end g-codes respectfully from the printer's G-codes? I am very new and bought the bibo 2 used on the cheap to try to start out.. the guy gave me an overview but nothing as to how to take the files and convert them to printable files as i had assumed they were one size fits all for printers.. learning slowly haha but the included sd card doesn't have any program files that i found and all references seem to be for a very dated version of cura.. and now thinking bibo went out of business or something since I can't find any tech support.

[GregValiant 1,246]

Each extruder MIGHT have code that will run at every tool change. Those are optional.  For now don't worry about them.

On the other hand, the StartUp G-Code always runs. 

I see there is a BIBO Dual available to install in Cura.  Here is the StartUp Gcode for that definition and there is a problem.  

 

M109 T{initial_extruder_nr} S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, initial_extruder_nr}

....

T0

....

T{initial_extruder_nr}

 

Cura can handle the heatup of the hot ends by itself.  By declaring specific tools in the startup gcode, the Cura calculated "tool order" might be different and that can cause a problem.  If the starting extruder is at 165° at the start of a print then the printer will enforce the "Avoid cold extrusions" setting and the print head moves around but doesn't do anything.  There is currently a bug in Cura that causes "initial_extruder_nr" to always return "0" in the StartUp.  It should be fixed in 5.7.

 

Instead of calling out the tool numbers, keep it simple for now.  Paste this in as your StartUp Gcode.  This will allow Cura to handle the tool order and heating of the bed and extruders.

 

G21 ;metric values

G90 ;absolute positioning

M220 S100 ;reset the feed rate to 100%

M221 S100 ; reset the flow rate to 100%

M107 ;start with the fan off

G28 ; Auto-Home all axes

G1 Z2.0 F400 ;move the platform down 2mm

G92 E0 ; Zero the extruder location

 

When you get used to the machine you can customize that so it works the way you prefer.  For now, just getting the printer working is a good thing.

 

Edited January 26 by GregValiant

[vforcepartyrentals 0]

22 hours ago, GregValiant said:

Each extruder MIGHT have code that will run at every tool change. Those are optional.  For now don't worry about them.

On the other hand, the StartUp G-Code always runs. 

I see there is a BIBO Dual available to install in Cura.  Here is the StartUp Gcode for that definition and there is a problem.  

 

M109 T{initial_extruder_nr} S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, initial_extruder_nr}

....

T0

....

T{initial_extruder_nr}

 

Cura can handle the heatup of the hot ends by itself.  By declaring specific tools in the startup gcode, the Cura calculated "tool order" might be different and that can cause a problem.  If the starting extruder is at 165° at the start of a print then the printer will enforce the "Avoid cold extrusions" setting and the print head moves around but doesn't do anything.  There is currently a bug in Cura that causes "initial_extruder_nr" to always return "0" in the StartUp.  It should be fixed in 5.7.

 

Instead of calling out the tool numbers, keep it simple for now.  Paste this in as your StartUp Gcode.  This will allow Cura to handle the tool order and heating of the bed and extruders.

 

G21 ;metric values

G90 ;absolute positioning

M220 S100 ;reset the feed rate to 100%

M221 S100 ; reset the flow rate to 100%

M107 ;start with the fan off

G28 ; Auto-Home all axes

G1 Z2.0 F400 ;move the platform down 2mm

G92 E0 ; Zero the extruder location

 

When you get used to the machine you can customize that so it works the way you prefer.  For now, just getting the printer working is a good thing.

 

Thank You, it works now!