Ultimaker2 Feeder System - Improvements and Ideas

[DidierKlein 729]

What's moving up and down? The guide? Surely it can't be the guide? I was actually worried that people would have trouble getting it on and off because I made it fit on there so tightly.

Personally I print without it when using normal PLA.

 

Yes the guide is moving just a little. I think that it moves because of the plastic thingy that's holding the bowden tube in place. When some retraction occurs the bowden tube is pressed up and down ant it touches the guide which moves also.

But it's very small and it fits really well (i had some trouble putting it on because it fits so perfectly

Printed another 8hours today, prints with retractions. Changed filament 3 times no issue to report.

It's very useful when you change the filament, the filament stuff that usually stayed in the bowden can be pulled out with the rest of the filament when you release the pressure with the clip

 

[cyan 0]

Yes. Read this first post here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

 

Great, exactly what I was looking for. Don't want to cross post, but it turned out nicely, easily managed 10mm³/s, didn't really seem like it was even trying, although I'm getting horrible ringing even at quite slow speeds:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/?p=49786

Thanks to everyone working on this issue and chasing all the components of the problem. The geek in me wants to find a way to test each component in isolation, and maybe build up a flowchart of checks that be applied to figure out the root cause of any particular under extrusion problem. If anyone has ideas in that direction and I can help, let me know.

 

[IRobertI 520]

Ok, well, it shouldn't move a whole lot considering the tolerances

But it shouldn't be an issue I think as long as it's the plastic thingy that is moving it rather than due to huge friction against the filament. But like I said, when using just normal PLA I don't use the guide at all. But it's up to you

Regarding the filament change. I don't use the built in material change routine at all. I let the head cool down to about 90-100C before pulling out the filament so that it completely empties the head in one shot. That way whatever colour you change to will be pretty much completely pure right away. This is especially useful when changing from something like red to white. With even a tiny bit of red left in the head it will take a while for the white to be truly white.

 

[ultismoother 0]

Hello, I have the same issues with my stock feeder and I'm looking to print the ones shown on this pages, but I could not find the source or a link to download, can you help me, please?

thanks in advance.

 

[cyan 0]

Hello, I have the same issues with my stock feeder and I'm looking to print the ones shown on this pages, but I could not find the source or a link to download, can you help me, please?

 

I printed |Robert|'s feeder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

I also recommend:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-guide

But maybe print one of the other feeder designs from this thread to test those?

 

[Nicolinux 288]

I am about to print Robert's feeder too. Man this UM2 is full of Robert by now. Spool holder, cable chain, dust filter and soon the feeder. Might as well call it Ultimaker R2 (like in Audi's R line).

Gotta find another upgrade with "D2" in the name. By the way - happy Star Wars day everyone!

 

[gr5 2,167]

UM2 FEEDER DESIGNS - I'm trying to summarize the designs here. I think they are all great designs. Let me know if I left an important one out.

Ian's design is secret for now.

Geek's design for UM2 feeder:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2

Robert's design is here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=45758

Post #402. Read Robert's post #409 below that one for more details on assembly and such.

Ultimaker's design is in these two posts

Post #279:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330

post #268

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162

I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet.

Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder:

https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar

 

 

[takei-naodar 0]

UM2 FEEDER DESIGNS - I'm trying to summarize the designs here. I think they are all great designs. Let me know if I left an important one out.

Ian's design is secret for now.

Geek's design for UM2 feeder:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2

Robert's design is here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=45758

Post #402. Read Robert's post #409 below that one for more details on assembly and such.

Ultimaker's design is in these two posts

Post #279:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42330

post #268

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=42162

I think this second post is more useful. Anyway, contact Bas for a free metal grommet.

Takei Naodar's design won't fit on the back of the UM2 so you need to also print his very clever spool holder:

https://www.youmagine.com/users/takei-naodar

 

 

Actually it was my mistake.... it cant fit on the second feeders place..... was a slight error i really have to correct ;D

 

[ultismoother 0]

Thanks alot, guys! :-P Now...does anyone knows hot to retain the feeder motor to prevent its fall into the case of the prineter? any tips??

 

[cyan 0]

I removed the metal cover over the stepper motors, it comes away easily with two small hex head screws, one on the right and one on the back.

[jonask 0]

Printed Roberts feeder yesterday. Only one thing to say: Brilliant! I`m Amazed how easy its to handle. Changing filament at 90° is a piece of cake!

Thank you for this Robert.

 

[ultismoother 0]

I removed the metal cover over the stepper motors, it comes away easily with two small hex head screws, one on the right and one on the back.

 

Thank you, that's good news. Going to print the new feeder. Where do you buy the hex head screws?

 

[cyan 0]

Thank you, that's good news. Going to print the new feeder. Where do you buy the hex head screws?

 

Well the only parts of |Robert|'s feeder that don't come from the old feeder are 1 M3 30mm bolt, 1 M3 14mm bolt (I cut down a 20mm one with a hacksaw), 1 M3 nut and 2 M3 washers (my hardware store didn't have, so I used a printed one I had from a failed print, so far it seems to be holding).

My very limited hardware store only had flat head M3 screws, but I don't recommend that, I nearly put a screwdriver through my hand a few times trying to get the tension screw threaded into the nut, it required a lot of force.

<rant>It's way harder than it should be to get basic hardware stuff and tools here in South Africa than it should be. I get blank looks asking for half the things I need, like digital or dial callipers or feeler gauges</rant>

 

[sebastian 0]

Ok!

 

So I do not see what could have caused this problem.

 

But I can still do an update with a little more material. Do you have a picture of the break that I realized

 

Digged deep in the "3d printing fail" bin and found the parts

 

Unfortunately, I had some problems with Roberts feeder as well. After approx. 50h of printing the latch broke on one of the printers. Part was filled 20% and broke between the infill. I printed some latches with 100% fill and attached them to both printers now.

 

[IRobertI 520]

Crap, that sucks :/ Let me know how the 100% filled one holds up. If anything I thought it would crack at the sharp angle of the latching part.

 

[cor3ys 28]

I printed the whole feeder 100% infill, might be overkill but want to avoid any such breakages :wink:

 

[geeks 1]

I believe that the problem is due to the fact that the pulleys must be aligned with the passage of the wire in the extruder.

 

Look over, you should see the passage of the wire. It is true that if it is too inwardly offset the filament force and it may broken.

 

What I can do, however, is modified e guide, make it more rigid. But I fear the opposite effect to the one I had done.

 

To see in the coming weeks! This will make me a good opportunity to review everything.

 

For the arms, I do not understand. I am no more worries. It seems that you have forced much. Are you sure these are M3 screws (3mm pitch of 0.5)?

 

[sebastian 0]

I believe that the problem is due to the fact that the pulleys must be aligned with the passage of the wire in the extruder.

 

Look over, you should see the passage of the wire. It is true that if it is too inwardly offset the filament force and it may broken.

 

What I can do, however, is modified e guide, make it more rigid. But I fear the opposite effect to the one I had done.

 

To see in the coming weeks! This will make me a good opportunity to review everything.

 

For the arms, I do not understand. I am no more worries. It seems that you have forced much. Are you sure these are M3 screws (3mm pitch of 0.5)?

 

The guide worked for ~20h of printing when printed in PLA with 20% fill. Afterwards I printed an ABS version with 20% fill that worked flawless. I also printed a 100% fill PLA version but didn't try that one anymore since the ABS version worked.

The arms worked for ~100h printed in PLA with 20% fill. I printed a 100% fill version but didn't use that one anymore. Screws were definitely M3.

So maybe everything is working with 100% fill in PLA...

 

[geeks 1]

At the moment, I have reviewed all the dimensions and everything is correct.

 

At me, I printed at 220 ° C with PLA Ultimaker.

 

Hum! Ok .. It's still bizarre. We really need the alignment is good. But now if it works, it's a good sign

 

[BasVanDeursen 0]

Hi everybody,

I saw that the github link for the step files of the revised UM2 feeder housing was not working anymore. For anyone who would like to print this revised version I have attached the stl files to this post. If you decide that you want to use this revised version, you'll need a metal grommet at the filament entrance. If you need one you can contact me.

At the moment we are in the process of a toolchange for the feeder housing. I'll let you know when I have samples. Furthermore I have been running tests with different feeder wheels and I am currently in the process of designing a test bench in which we can do more detailed measurements on the resistance induced by the bowden tube and the hotend.

Cheers!

Bas

 

[eldrick 65]

Consider using a hobbed pulley, such as this one, instead of the current filament-grinder: http://trinitylabs.com/products/hobbed-pulley

It would mangle the filament less and produce far less plastic fragments in the prints.

 

[profepaco 0]

Consider using a hobbed pulley, such as this one, instead of the current filament-grinder: http://trinitylabs.com/products/hobbed-pulley

It would mangle the filament less and produce far less plastic fragments in the prints.

 

that's a good idea!

At ebay you can find them too. But it seems at a minimum of 10 units...

group buy? :cool:

 

[takei-naodar 0]

I will just leave these links here:

http://reprap.me/extruder/mk8.html

http://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-gear

*flies away

Edit:

 

for your enjoyment

 

[eldrick 65]

Has anyone tried this drive wheel? I like the idea of the thumbwheel for manual feeding.

http://deezmaker.com/store/#!/~/product/category=0&id=36429224

 

[takei-naodar 0]

Do you know how much torgue you would have to overcome if the feeder was powered? Or Resistace in the Nozzle?

Also if you need something US based i would advise to use this model:

http://deezmaker.com/store/#!/~/product/category=0&id=24043350

Also i ordered the MK8 from my previous post and will soon begin testing it out on a UM2.