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chronoless

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Hi all,

I've just completed the build of my Ultimaker.

I'm happy with the first results and now I'd like to optimize a bit. Some of the stuff I've printed looks great other stuff not so much.

I hope you guys have some ideas on how to improve. I think it's most software related stuff as the hardware seems to work just fine (also evident from some of the print results for as far as I can judge).

Here some of the results and observations.

Yoda printed by Printrun, Sliced by Netfabb, Standard hollow profile. Looks good I guess. (I've removed some stringing)

_mg_5414-430x286.jpg

_mg_5415-430x286.jpg

The Whistle printed with Printrun, sliced by Cura. Also looks good. (Also removed some stringing)

_mg_5408-430x286.jpg

However when I try to print it with print run and slice it with netfabb things go wrong. I've tried different of the preset profiles. Also tried a custom 'hatched' profile.

_mg_5410-430x286.jpg

_mg_5411-430x286.jpg

_mg_5412-430x286.jpg

This is a new fan cover also sliced by netfabb. Result is ok but could be better (see the 'cracks' around the holes and the junk on the surface of the 'legs')

_mg_5413-430x286.jpg

I'm also trying to print a vase-like object from transparent PLA. I've used the Standard Quality Vase profile. The result is ok but I'm getting quite some junk on the surface. Especially on the inside of the surface. Is there a way to reduce this? Part of it seems to be caused by a sometimes weird jumping of the extruder van one circle more often than seems necessary.

_mg_5416-430x286.jpg

_mg_5417-430x286.jpg

_mg_5419-430x286.jpg

I've tried several temperatures within the 190-240 range. I've been getting the best results at 230-240 as it flows nicer that way. I've been reading about people trying to bring down the temperature as much as possible. Why is this exactly?

I've also noticed that laying down the first layer works better when I stop the fan (with my finger; not ideal :)). Is there a way to do this through the software?

I've done some tests with White PLA. It seems to be more difficult to print than Silver. Similar experiences?

Thanks!

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Hi

You've got some nice prints there. The junk on the fan I think it caused by a small area print where you are putting hot filament on warm filament. You need to slow your printing down at this area or slow the whole print down. It might improve once you're using that fan too. ;)

See http://replicat.org/mcodes for MCodes. Fan on/off M106/M107.

People print at as low a temp as possible to reduce oozing and stringing.

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Thanks for the comments !

Today I've been looking into the limited quality I've been getting printing the transparent PLA.

When the Ultimaker extrudes at a limited pace the extrusion seems to be not working properly.

Two threads I've extruded with the extrude button. It extruded relatively slow but about the same speed as used in the print.

draad-430x281.jpg

This is what the thread looks like when I extrude with force (manual feed or fast extrude)

draad3.jpg

This is what it looks like when extruding with motor slowly. I've been seeing the same pattern in my print which makes it look opaque rather than transparent (I know full transparency is difficult).

draad2-430x248.jpg

Also when speeding up the print the quality of the lines becomes worse.

I'm now working on a 17cm print which takes 20 hours (13 hours done now).

I've tried 210-250 C. I can't seem to find a big difference (it looks a bit worse on 210).

At the moment I can't put in another color to see if the same effect occurs with other colors to see if it's the nozzle or transparent pla specific.

Do you guys have an idea of what might be wrong here and how to fix it?

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Anybody have an idea? Thanks!

Only that I've never had great luck getting transparent PLA to come out really transparent.

I've suspected that the two big factors are printing speed (ie: pressure/turbulance in the nozzle) and the temperature. I don't have any rules or tips, though...

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I have the same problem with the transparant PLA on my Ultimaker and haven't found a solution yet (not searching very hard for it as well though...).

I think it's head-speed related. I also have this when printing other PLAs and particularly at rounded surfaces. Don't know if it has anything to do with is but it seems like the mechanical system (incl. belt/ belt tension) can't keep up with the printing speed making a turn in which a lot of meshes pass the path of the extruder.

It's not a grounded suggestion but just one of my thougths. In case it is the problem, you can try to get the speed down. If you find some time, try it at 50% of the original speed and let's see what happens.

Also look after your belts tension. It's hard to say what a good tension should look like but I needed to get quite a bit extra tension in them to get the print quality up.

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I have the same problem with the transparant PLA on my Ultimaker and haven't found a solution yet (not searching very hard for it as well though...).

I think it's head-speed related. I also have this when printing other PLAs and particularly at rounded surfaces. Don't know if it has anything to do with is but it seems like the mechanical system (incl. belt/ belt tension) can't keep up with the printing speed making a turn in which a lot of meshes pass the path of the extruder.

It's not a grounded suggestion but just one of my thougths. In case it is the problem, you can try to get the speed down. If you find some time, try it at 50% of the original speed and let's see what happens.

Also look after your belts tension. It's hard to say what a good tension should look like but I needed to get quite a bit extra tension in them to get the print quality up.

Maybe it's related to the same issue as with printing PC:

http://www.protoparadigm.com/2011/12/pr ... carbonate/

— PLA is also very hygroscopic.

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