HELP! Delaminating, oozing, small blobs, burnt filament, and more issues.

[MikeBTekno 0]

I recently purchased the S5 Pro Bundle and began running some prototype parts. In the pictures you can see most of the issues. This print is using Ultimakers Natural PVA for support (P/N 9731) and Transparent PCA  (P/N 1640). Below are the issues I see and would greatly appreciate any help, I did try searching for these issues but as I am not entirely too sure what the issues are called I was unable to find anything clear (settings based on material). I have also attached the project file to assist? Not sure if this saves current settings or if the model is included but wanted to include it as well just in case. I am printing on extra fine settings "0.06" using Cura Enterprise.

 

1. After the support/ part material finishes the layer and is switched, there is oozing on both nozzles that either fall off onto the glass bed or get stuck to the side of the part / purge tower. You can see all the FOD on the glass and on the side of the tower and part.
2. Delaminating from glass is a big issue and causing the part to shake when printing. This part in the picture did NOT have a raft on it but did have the glue that came with it. Does the heated bed weaken the glue? On a past part which had a large flat bottom (2.5" x 6"), the corners lifted worse with glue than a raft, but even with no glue and the raft it still lifted. This tends to only happen after many layers of the actual material and not with the support?
3. The top surface or last printed layer has a bunch of bumps or blobs on it. I believe these are in the support material and do not seem to appear in the part material.
4. It's hard to see, but there are many pieces of filament that are burnt in color? Not sure what causes that but it seems like that shouldn't happen.
5. Is there a way to calculate shrinking? I tried printing a reference gauge and noticed that is was about 0.012" shorter across a 6" length.

 

I really am looking for help with the settings for each material or for the print that I can save somehow in the software / printer so after I set everything once it will stay set that way. Also, any advise for future prints such as orientation and printing threads would be amazing as well! :) 

 

UMS5_Sausage Pack to 0.25in NPT.3mf

Edited November 10, 2022 by MikeBTekno
Duplicate Picture

[gr5 2,094]

Let's talk about #2.  This is a critical issue and the most important one and the easiest to fix.

 

There are many ways to prepare the glass.  Since you mentioned the glue stick let's use that.  spread it around sparingly in the area where the print and the tower will be.  Then take a napkin or tissue, wet it, and spread around the glue.  This will also remove 90% of the glue which is great.  You want a very thin layer.  Thicker layers of glue don't hold the part as well as thinner layers.  If there is no glue at all then it won't stick so well either (and the glass would need to be cleaned after every 10 or so prints to keep dust and oils off).  I usually only clean the glass about once per year as I have many thin layers of glue.

 

Oh - and while doing this set the bed temp to 60C because you now probably need to wait for the wet glue to dry.  At 60C it takes maybe 2 minutes.  If you start at 20C then by the time the bed reaches 60C it may be dry.

 

Leave the bed temp setting alone.  I believe 60C for PLA is perfect.

 

1) This is normal.  This is basically the purpose of the prime tower.

4) This is normal.  PVA burns (caramelizes) very easily.  Caramelized PVA is the leading cause of BB core clogs and results in the need for many hot and cold pulls on the BB core if it gets clogged or has a partial clog causing underextrusion (not a problem for you I think.  Yet.).

 

5) You should be using engineering mode if you care that much about part size.  And I also recommend 0.1mm layer height (not 0.06 which can cause quality to be worse - sometimes).  In the profiles there are some that are "engineering mode".  These give you MUCH better dimensional accuracy but also lower quality visually (more ringing noise around letters and corners).

 

3) "top" surface?  Do you mean outer surface?  maybe take a picture and circle what you mean?

[MikeBTekno 0]

Hello gr5!

 

Thank you very much for the quick reply! I wasn't aware that the glue had to be THAT thin but it makes a lot more sense now. I have been taking the glue stick directly onto the glass and then leaving that as is, making sure as I apply it there's no globs or anything. I will definitely try that now!

 

I also did not know that layer height or the modes changed the tolerancing. Honestly this is the very first 3D printer I have ever even seen in person so I have absolutely no idea what any of these settings are or do. I assumed that those preset profiles were for layer height only. 

 

For question 3, I circled the "top surface" I was referring to. Basically the layer the printer just completed/printing now. This picture is taken almost directly across the surface and has a bunch of little bumps and dots on it. I understand now that these are meant to be seen and normal on the priming tower, but is this normal as well inside the support areas?

 

 

Thank you again for your guidance and time!

[gr5 2,094]

I think they are pretty common but not 100% sure.  That looks like good quality PVA which is rare on this forum.  Your material handler is helping you probably more than you know.  For me, my PVA gets "ruined" if I leave it on the back of the printer for a few days and has to be dried again which is not a trivial process but basically you put it on a heated bed at a certain temp for like 24 hours under a towel.

 

But your PVA looks quite good.  Almost clear.  When it gets wet it boils and looks more white.  More like snow.

 

 

[MikeBTekno 0]

I think you're right. We installed the PVA spool back when we first got the a machine on Oct. 26 2022 and this was the first use of it on Nov. 10 2022. The facility itself is somewhat humidity controlled but not nearly enough to make a difference at the location of the printer as it is in a "closed" room on the second floor on a production floor with no direct air ducting.

 

We printed another 2 in a different orientation, with glue and the adhesion rafts. MUCH better print! It did peel off from the bed a lot easier though so I'm not sure if I am doing the glue correctly. I heated the bed to 60c as you recommended, then used the glue stick and wiped the entire surface with a wet paper towel until a thin uniform layer was formed and immediately started the print (which purged the nozzles and did the whole start up with a new filament. Didn't actually print for about 5 more minutes). Is that correct?

 

Also, we are still seeing some burnt filament on the print itself leaving small cracks/voids in the outer wall of the print. I changed it to "engineering" at 0.1mm as you recommended with 100% fill as the part will be subject to about 50psi of dispensing forces. Are these features common with PC or is this caused by using dual extrusion? We did not see these features printing with no support on tough PLA.

 

Thank you for your help and time!

[gr5 2,094]

Oh - I didn't realize it was polycarbonate.  I don't know if that changes anything as I've only used PC once I think?  Actually I think it was ABS mixed with PC.  Maybe.

 

Okay so I just read this.  I recommend you do as well:

https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337602519

 

So they recommend the glue just like I said but even better use magigoo.  There is a type specifically for PC.  I've never used magigoo but I know many people who have and they all love that stuff.  So buy some now.

 

In addition it will help your part from warping off the bed if you use brim (or raft - raft works quite well but you end up with an ugly bottom layer).

 

Also it helps if you can raise the air temp in the printer.  Do you have the air manager?  If not you can just put a box or something over the printer.  It doesn't have to be air tight - just something to raise the air temp to 35C will help a lot.  Most of the warping happens between the softening temp of PC and the air temp in the printer.  I don't know where PC gets soft but I'll wildly guess 110C.  So 110C to 20C is 90C difference.  If you can raise the air temp to 40C that's now only 70C difference so significantly less warping forces trying to rip the print up off the bed.  Hotter than 40C is I believe out of spec for the printer because the servos might get too hot (it's probably fine up to 50C but I wouldn't risk it).