Gluing PLA Plastic

[skint 61]

RapidSeal?? I don't think we have that in USA. You mean this stuff? I don't think this is glue.

 

Hey gr5

I should of posted this in my previous link!

Cheap and easy to get in the UK. I have bought a few tubes and so far it works quite well.

http://rapidseal.co.uk/project/rapidseal-super-glue-high-viscosity/

 

[bigmouse 6]

I've since used Gorilla glue, just a small smear on both surfaces, add a hint of water and lightly clamp together, while it is not welding, I found the joint to be very strong!

 

[bigmouse 6]

Thanks Bez, I can get that in the UK!

Just ordered some!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ambroid-Pro-Weld-2oz-Blister-/111303260649?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19ea30f9e9

 

[willysnowman 0]

Here is what I did. I chose the components after some very careful engineering and because they are what I had on hand.

I used a acrylic cement (i think any brand will work) and a syringe with a applicator needle.

I had to sand the face against the glass. I believe the hairspray on glass keeps it from getting a good bond.

You then apply the acrylic cement around in drops (not puddles). It will seep in. You want maybe a few surface drops when you connect the two together. I also applied some drops into the seam. I actually worked pretty well. It wicked right in and didn't leave much discoloration.

I did not try is but is my be beneficial to add solvent to both sides. I only applied to one side. Be careful, too much will get on your fingers and show up on the outside when u clamp.

Then stick together. I would guess you have about 15-30 seconds to align.

The bond is stronger than the PLA layers. Clean up is easy since the stuff evaporates. The syringe proved reusable. The only disadvantage I see is this stuff evaporates quickly. It does not appear to have much of a shelf life (but maybe the top was not on tight enough??).

Use lots of ventilation!

[jens 9]

Although it seems the thread moved on towards chemical welding ...

For the benefits of availability anywhere anytime and being (relatively) harmles, I use CA glue, the cheapest I can find (the super runny stuff, no gel!), hold/clamp the pieces together and just go all the way around the joint gap. Other than that, I try to design parts in a way suited for glueing.

PLA often doesn't adhere instantly; so, it may need some time for the glue to harden. If there are somewhat larger gaps due bad tolerances, you can fill them with CA glue and almost any kind of fine powder at hand (no joke, flour, starch, baking soda, sawing dust ... name one).

The "whitening" that sometimes occurs with CA glue is not so much a matter of brand but of moisture, temperature and whatnot. It sometimes happens and sometimes doesn't, with the very same glue. As a general rule: IF using CA glue, do assume that it WILL happen (meaning be extra extra careful when handling transparent material, optical stuff, lenses and so on).

Not exactly a solution, but still: PETG bonds extremely well with CA glue, much better than PLA.

[cloakfiend 995]

I use Araldite 5mins, its great if you want to get stuff in place as it lets you ajdust the position for the first few minutes unlike superglue and then goes rock solid, its two part, but better than superglue for that reason. then some basic tamiya modelling putty to fill the gaps to make it perfect.

Edited July 7, 2015 by Guest

[nallath 1,120]

Chloroform works. But that's more like welding as you actually dissolve the plastic.

[danilius 118]

I find that superglue is really great, but has the advantage that it can be separated by giving a good wallop or applying hot water. It can also be used as a filler if you fill the crack with bicarbonate of soda and then apply superglue.

I have used gorilla glue, it is incredibly strong, but it foams up and seeps everywhere. Sometimes an advantage, though, if you have large gaps.

Another one that is really good for larger surfaces is Evo-Stik Impact Adhesive. I particularly like the smell :-) You are supposed to coat two surfaces, allow them to tack-dry and then squeeze them together for a few moments. This works fine in most cases, but occasionally I simply slather glue on one surface, clamp the parts together and allow it to dry for several hours. This would be when I need to position things accurately by hand and eye, so an instant bond is no use. Unlike superglue, the Evo-Stik has a lot of flexibility so under some circumstances it will take way more punishment than superglue.

[cloakfiend 995]

Chloroform works. But that's more like welding as you actually dissolve the plastic.

 

I could do with some chloroform! ill give it a try!

http://www.sciencecompany.com/Chloroform-32oz-Reagent-ACS-P16936.aspx

http://www.chemicals.co.uk/chloroform

Edited July 8, 2015 by Guest

[viae 2]

Has anyone tried using Plastruct Bondene? I'm testing it out because I like the capillary action with bonding at the joint. I have been getting some decent success where two surfaces meet.

Description of the product here:

http://bit.ly/1KYPa50

"A specially formulated solvent cement for fast, permanent bonding of most similar plastics, including Styrene. Quickly bonds ABS to ABS, Styrene to Styrene, Butyrate to Butyrate and Acrylic to Acrylic. Actually melts the surfaces together, creating a bond as strong as the surrounding areas. Full coverage attained by capillary action."

I'm beginning to do some tests with bonding PLA of different colors, and will try to post any interesting results.

Edited July 9, 2015 by Guest

[viae 2]

So I had good success with the solvent cement mentioned above. It's a good solution for bonding surfaces with lots of common surface area. I wouldn't use it for small surface areas that are subject to torque. In cases like this, I used Loctite epoxy resin with metal pins.

The two colors used were Standard White PLA from colorFabb, and iMakr's black PLA. Both bonded well, but the black had some discoloration and matte areas on what is otherwise a fairly shiny surface. This was repaired by briefly brushing the surface with a torch.

Edited July 23, 2015 by Guest

[phut 0]

Regarding the comments on cyanoacrylate, there is certainly a bit of technique to it and variations in the formulations. Loctite has a number of formulations that are designed to work in surfaces of different finish level as well as different types of substrates. If you've done it right then the bond is always stronger than any printed PLA or ABS substrate will be.

That said, you can get really far with your run of the mill $2 for 7 tubes CA with a little thought to the preparation and mechanical design. Par down surface imperfections with a blade, take advantage of tapering to gain closer surface fits, take a page from the wood or metalworking design and use finger jointing techniques to maximise the characteristics of the glue etc.

Of course, this is not to say it is an end all/be all, I regularly have used 2 part epoxies, shoe goop, yellow glue and other types as well.

[IRobertI 520]

take advantage of tapering to gain closer surface fits

What do you mean by this?

[jens 9]

 

take advantage of tapering to gain closer surface fits

What do you mean by this?

 

Something like this, I think:

... this goes also for joints where you would stick, let's say, one tube into another (there, you get surfaces closer to each other, if have them tapered)

Edited July 25, 2015 by Guest

[SimMaker 0]

Hi All

Check this out.....

 

I wanted to do a conversion of sorts to a small RC Heli I have, so it had to deal with a lot of vibration.....

The glue I used was http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=zap/zap-glues/zap-o-ca and I used the kicker for it too........

This project involved gluing the printed parts to the eggshell thin plastic body of the RC model....and also involved gluing printed PLA to PLA where the sensor dome and rocket pods were involved........so far.....so good......

[sogeking 0]

 

RapidSeal??  I don't think we have that in USA.  You mean this stuff?  I don't think this is glue.

 

Hey gr5

I should of posted this in my previous link!

Cheap and easy to get in the UK.  I have bought a few tubes and so far it works quite well.

http://rapidseal.co.uk/project/rapidseal-super-glue-high-viscosity/

 

Hi,

Does anybody know of a reseller of rapidglue that will ship to Norway? I found this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/20gram-Medium-Viscosity-Superglue-Full-Box-of-25-Delivered-Free-85p-bottle-/251984315618?nav=SEARCH on eBay but they don't ship to Norway...

[cloakfiend 995]

I find regular superglue also just fine and it survives acetoning too just make sure its not old or else it may not cure properly as its shelf life is not always that great.

Edited October 18, 2015 by Guest

[TheDoctor 0]

I have tried a couple of glues that work to various degrees but the best for me so far is the FastCap 2p-10 adhesive. It is a 2 part glue that requires no mixing. It works like this:

1) Apply the adhesive to one side of the joint.

2) Spray the activator on the other side. (It comes in aerosol and non aerosol forms)Note! The activator can cause the plastic to whiten slightly so you may want either mask off areas not part of the joint or apply with a brush.

3) press the parts together for about 10 seconds.

[OzStevens 1]

 

A scientifically tested choice. Just another opinion, but a good one.

OzS

[gr5 2,167]

loctite super glue "ultra gel control". Good to know.

[cloakfiend 995]

I find any superglue works just fine, even the ultra cheap ones from diy stores and im pretty sure it doesnt have to be loctite. Ive coincidentally also used the gels because they give you a touch more time to align stuff compared to the straight glue. He forgot to mention as many have done that it needs to be relatively new or unopened as old superglue doenst always bond well.

Edited March 20, 2016 by Guest

[peetersm 124]

I use this stuff:

It's very toxic, so must be used with care.

It works on most plastics, ABS, Styrene, Acyrlic etc.

 

+1 for Dichloromethane (DCM, or methylene chloride)!!

I have not had good results with CA, but have had perfect results with this solvent. (wear gloves and have tons of ventilation)

I buy it at my local hobby store but you can get it here:

http://www.amazon.com/Tenax-7R/dp/B00EMXTBG0

[cloakfiend 995]

Ill get some to add to my glue collection then! Im planning a little project now...not big stuff though.

[drofnas 15]

I started using this combo and it "seems" to be working pretty awesome so far:

http://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ

http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-151-Insta-Set-Accelerator/dp/B0000DD1QR

I've been tossing CA glue on one side, spray the Accelerator on the other side, and pushing the parts together. Few seconds later, ready to move on with my project. I've only used it on a few projects so far, so don't have a ton of experience with the Accelerator yet.

[popi1854 1]

Clock motors are fun, I have built a few out of PLA. I have not used the Loctite 401. I will have to give it a try. All of the loctite and CA glues I have tried have produced negative results. The best method I have for reliable connections of PLA printed parts is with a soldering iron. Its a bit tricky and you must be steady and very careful, but with a good pointed tip and a little practice, the joints I have made with this method are rock solid and dependable.