Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

[gr5 2,170]

That sucks that you can't put the filament on the floor. Some people have printed various guides plus there is a version of the feeder from UM that uses a metal colet at the input to the feeder (where most of the grinding of the black plastic occurs - that black plastic ends up in the nozzle).

Well maybe something like this then:

post #132:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=38104

 

[Blizz 53]

I use https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-power-cable-filament-guide and I find it helps the filament scrape as well:

 

I couldn't achieve the 10mm3/s before without issues but with IRobertI's feeder and this I find that I can, with the filament on the spool holder.

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Sooooo...

Finally got the new UM2 and guess what was the first thing I printed?

Printed with stock everything the first two cylinders. Underextrusion starts on the big one between 13-14mm^3/s.

The second big cylinder was printed with Faberdashery filament on a loose spool holder (Yeah I know, not that stylish...)

 

So finally! No more underextrusion problems. :grin:

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Great news Nicolux

 

[woofy 12]

Yay!

It's been a long hard road, but I'm pleased you got there.

:-P

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Thanks guys. I held my breath while printing these things

Now, time to tinker with experimental stuff (bronzeFill here I come!!!)

 

[SandervG 1,521]

You must be quite an athlete if you are able to hold your breath for so long

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Nah.. Ultimakers can print really fast you know?

 

[stu_le_brew 42]

I am very pleased to announce I have just joined the 10mm3/s club - al last !! (only a tiny bit of under extrusion at 10mm3/s - but I am still happy)

after reading many threads on this forum I got the confidence to disassemble the print head and clean inside, and fix a small deformation in the top of the Teflon spacer

So big thanks to all people who helped and didn't even know you were helping me

Stu

 

[Blizz 53]

Congrats Stu!

 

[arjen 1]

My first attempt "230c" print. Yet I still have times I get under extrusion or simply full layers missing at random.

Happens most often when printing at 0.1 or 0.05mm layers not so often with 0.2mm

 

 

[Titus 170]

Finally printing my first circle on the UM1, currently at 6mm/s, no problems so far

 

 

 

[renthal 8]

Back in the under extruding club again sigh......

I have Roberts low friction spool holder installed and it is great. I went through and did several cold pulls untill the hotend was clean but with the bowden removed pushing filament through by hand takes a lot of force. The filament extrudes strait and clean but I can feel a lot of resistance. When assembled the feeder skips as soon as the printer begins to prime the hotend and through out the print. I use quality filament from Protoparadigm here are my settings below. I am to the point where a full hotend teardown is next to check the teflon insulator but need a replacement on hand before I go that far. Being I have to talk someone through the process due to my non working fingers. I just need this printer to work reliably and it just is not happening yet.

230/60 temp

200 microns

40mm/s

cura 14.7

 

[renthal 8]

Unrelated but I can't post in the dual extruder topic why is this? I assume it's due to my low post count/ new user but if that is true is there a way around this? I don't want to post a bunch of non constructive posts just to have enough aproved posts to be able to take part in the discussion.

My idea is to use a small piece of headder wrap (a kevlar material used to wrap performance exhaust headders that protects ignition wires on dragsters from melting and reduces engine compartment heat.) to insulate the hot ends and reduce radiant heat along with a redesigned heat sink that would add cooling fins to the front as well.

 

[gr5 2,170]

Regarding your underextrusion the most common culprit seems to be the white teflon piece inside the print head so I recommend you take that out and slide some filament through it to see if you feel lots of friction and maybe drill it out or ask UM support for another one (they have newer ones made of glass impregnated teflon now) if your printer is more than a few months old.

Regarding posting - you only need to do 3 posts to have all rights. You have 15. Could you go to that forum, grab the URL from the url bar above and message me with it? It might be that the topic was "closed" by a moderator. I googled dual extrusion in these forums and didn't see any closed topics but there are several topics and I may have missed it.

Regarding "header wrap" this seems completely unnecessary and will make taking the nozzle out more difficult. Many people modify their UM only to put it back the way it was - the things work pretty damn well in stock configuration.

 

[kreativgeek 0]

Just finished a test on my new UM2. It was delivered a week ago and only replaced the middle fan. It doesn't have the newest extruder version (G?) yet.

Let's hope it stays this way!

 

[Blizz 53]

Looking nice! Welcome to the 10mm3/s club

[renthal 8]

Regarding your underextrusion the most common culprit seems to be the white teflon piece inside the print head so I recommend you take that out and slide some filament through it to see if you feel lots of friction and maybe drill it out or ask UM support for another one (they have newer ones made of glass impregnated teflon now) if your printer is more than a few months old.

Regarding posting - you only need to do 3 posts to have all rights. You have 15. Could you go to that forum, grab the URL from the url bar above and message me with it? It might be that the topic was "closed" by a moderator. I googled dual extrusion in these forums and didn't see any closed topics but there are several topics and I may have missed it.

Regarding "header wrap" this seems completely unnecessary and will make taking the nozzle out more difficult. Many people modify their UM only to put it back the way it was - the things work pretty damn well in stock configuration.

 

The headder wrap would only be put between the hot end and aluminum plate on duel extruders for extra thermal insulation reducing the cooling needed. Not wraped around the entire hotend. your printer may work great stock but at the moment mine is a Under Extruding paper weight. I do have a new glass filled nylon piece comming so we will see what happens. I have a booth reserved at the Orlando maker fair to display my handycapt accessible ps3 controllers I use my printer to make so i'm trying to get it printing right by then. But no matter what it's going to be displayed and will be printing UE or not.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3803-ultimaker-2-dual-extrusion/

 

[aroth 1]

UM2 fresh out of the box:

Not sure if that counts as successful or not. There are some minor issues at 9mm/s, and some moderate issues at 10mm/s, but the print itself didn't fail.

The roughness at 7mm/s is because the spool was snagged. I cleared it quickly and the print was fine after that, at least until it reached the higher speeds.

 

[freeform4u 4]

Hello together,

First of all I would like to say thank you to the main moderators of this Forum I learned all lot. I have never seen underextrusion at my UM2 since I changed the temperatursensor. A few prints after changing I get trouble. Hope to get my new teflon coupler soon. The main failure I made I didn't put a lot of pressure on the bowden tube as I assemble them, so the result is now underextrusion.

So thank you again, I will read often you posts and stay tuned and learning;-)

 

[zews 1]

This is the result of printing the test on my printer. I have had this printer for a few months now, and I have yet to print a decent print. To say that I am frustrated is an understatement.

I appreciate all the support a number of volunteers on these forums are providing so much. I would like to hear from Ultimaker what they have to say about this, and how they plan to provide support for this issue that is affecting a seemingly significant number of users.

 

 

 

 

[gr5 2,170]

9mm^3/sec is actually normal. That's a pass. Assuming you printed it at 230C. If you printed it much hotter then I would say it was a partial fail. If you printed much cooler (say 220C) then your printer is superior to most.

 

[gornnr 2]

I just wanted to pop in and say thank you for this file.

Every time I get a new color I print this and dial in the temp for that color using this. Its extremely easy to see when the temp is too low (underextruding) just right (prints perfect) or rarely too hot (globby leaning mess).

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Does it really make sense to use this for a temperature test? I mean if you wait too long with changing temperature, you'd also get more volume per second because the test is designed to increase it over time. Ideally I think you would need an object with the same volume where you can test the temperature gradually.

 

[gr5 2,170]

That would be nice - yes - a 10mm^3/sec cylinder where I can set the speed to e.g. 50% to get 5mm^3/sec. And play with the temp at the same time. And no text.