Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

[dinykb 0]

I looked at it but I still don't have an idea. It does not make sense to give such bad results at 3-4. Is it repeatable? Did you watch the feeder to see if filament gets tangled or if it is blocked somewhere on the way?

I think you have two problems here. The one is the bad extrusion and the other is the "banding" which should be related to the z-stage.

As for the z-stage - I'd take it out and clean it. I'd also check if the screw is flat/even and not bent.

The extrusion problem still baffles me. Try another filament brand and watch the feeder (especially at the beginning). Also, do you hear the typical skipping sound when the feeder skips and the filament is pushed back?

 

The bad result of the extrusion test repeated itself today : again 3 and 4 are very bad and the other speeds look quite good.

I checked the screw : I think it is not bent. I cleaned it and I will do a new test tomorrow.

I already ordered new filament because I ran out but again Innofil ; I will get it tomorrow. I do not hear the sound that you mention. The batch was from last Feb I think ; but I started using it some 3 weeks ago. I kept it in the sealed bag untill then.

 

[gr5 2,167]

If the sensors read lower values than in reality shouldn't the test then work the other way round (setting something like 80°C and check if the water boils)?

 

Oops - I meant the sensor reads high such that the nozzle is at 190C when programming it to 220C.

 

[gr5 2,167]

I looked at it but I still don't have an idea

 

Again - could be temperature. If the printing starts the second it reaches 230C and then it overshoots, it could undershoort during the 3-4 section. Better to let the temp stabilize (go to TUNE menu) before starting the print (will start when you exit TUNE menu).

 

[gr5 2,167]

When do you consider PLA to be 'old' ?

 

I have 2 year old filament that is fine. Others have 6 month old filament that breaks into pieces. I don't know what process ages the filament (heat? cold? too dry?). Also I don't know how long it has been sitting in a warehouse before shipping. I do know that I have kept all filament wrapped well when not in use. I have not been perfect about those little packs of desiccant but for maybe half my spools I have a little pack still.

 

[umqais 0]

Hey guys, Thanks for all the info this thread have given me. After a few months I started having serious under extrusion problems on my Ultimaker 2 and I couldn't figure out what to do. Thankfully I came across this thread. I think it should be stickied as it has a lot of useful info (if that wasn't done already )

My problem seems to be too much tension on my material feed when using the the stock Ultimaker 2 feed guide. Once I tried a new feed guide, I had much improved results. Though I must admit that I had to raise my temp to about 235C) once I passed the 5 - 6mm^3/ s mark and some black stuff fell off the extruder; I assuming it was old material that burnt off. As you might see in the pictures.

Attaching my results, now I know what direction to go in, to keep improving my machine. Thanks!

 

 

 

[dinykb 0]

I did some new extrusiontests : with the current rol of filament (2/3 full I guess) and with a new rol. Both Innofil. At 230 C. See photos for result : bad or very bad at low speeds 3 and 4, or even 3,4,5,6, and better at higher speeds. The test with the new rol of filament was completely very bad (the test on the right on the picture).

We also have lots of times a thick bulge in the filament; see second photo.

Also grinding of the filament hapens often.

 

 

 

[stormclad 3]

Any advice, i moved the filament underneath on a lazy susan to reduce the friction but I'm still getting under extrusion problems.

http://imgur.com/OM5s9EC

 

[dinykb 0]

I went to my printerreseller and they helped me replace the spacer. It prints much better now.

 

[th3o 0]

Hello guys,

This thread helped me so much improving my UM2. After reading al the pages (pfew) I decided to loosen the headscrews as suggested in the beginning of the thread.

I added pictures of some tests I did.

My setup:

 

• UM2
  
• Low friction spoolholder by |Robert|
  
• Filament guide by Geeks
  
• Colorfabb Shining Silver PLA/PHA
  

 

When I just received the printer I had a lot of problems with the feeder grinding in the filament.

After adjusting the feeder I don't have this problems anymore.

As shown in the pictures loosening the headscrews solved some under extrusion

I cannot decide whether to change the stock feeder for |Roberts|'s Alternative UM2 Feeder

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two

The stock feeder is doing fine. Will |Robert|'s feeder improve my UM2 or make it more reliable?

Here are some pictures:

Test I did a couple of weeks ago:

 

Test I did today:

 

 

After loosening the headscrews:

 

 

Now I joined the 10mm3 club I did some test at 200% speed

 

230C

 

240C

 

250C

 

250C 102% flow

 

Again: will will changing the feeder give any advantages?

 

[aroth 1]

The stock feeder is doing fine. Will |Robert|'s feeder improve my UM2 or make it more reliable?

 

If you're happy with the stock feeder, then I'd say leave it as is. Print out a copy of the alternate feeder so that you have it available if/when you need it, but stick with the stock feeder until you do.

And as far as needing the alternate feeder goes, I switched because the stock feeder tended to deform the filament on prints with a lot of retractions no matter how I adjusted the feeder tension. Eventually it deformed the filament so severely that the only way to free it was to open up the feeder. Trying to get the stock feeder back together was a pain, so I decided to try the alternate version at that point. IRobertI's version is much easier to install.

So if you're not printing things with lots of retractions (or if you stock feeder handles such prints better than mine did) and you're happy with the stock feeder, why mess with it? Just keep a copy of the alternate feeder handy in case your stock feeder ever gets completely stuck, and enjoy your Ultimaker.

As far as performance goes, I've had successful prints of the extrusion test using both feeder systems. Either can perform well, although with IRobertI's feeder there's a much wider 'sweet spot' in terms of adjusting the feeder tension.

I don't know if there's a difference in terms of the absolute maximum speed attainable, as I'm more interested in quality and retraction handling than sheer speed. And both feeders have issues dealing with lots of retraction, at least for me. IRobertI's feeder has a slight edge there in that if/when the filament deforms there's a quick-release latch that makes it easy to free the filament without having to open/detach the entire mechanism (and potentially have the spring go flying across the room to who knows where). But only if you're NOT using the optional filament guide. If you're using the guide and your filament deforms...heaven help you.

Some people have reported breakages when using IRobertI's feeder, though I've not been particularly gentle with mine and it's still in one piece.

 

[th3o 0]

I was also thinking about printing the alternative feeder just in case I need it.

Like you said: why mess with it? :-P If there is no advantage at this moment I think I will keep it like this and have the alternative feeder on the shelf.

 

[solid-print-3d 30]

after jury rigging my teflon insulator, and with a bowden tube that has more friction than a cats tongue, I'm at a whopping 4mm/s. I would have cried had I not predicted a 3mm/s result. I'll replace the teflon and bowden when they arrive this week, and post side by side results to see what the improvement is (damn sure HOPE it improves).

 

[twistx 0]

Hello folks,

I seem to be able to print OK parts at Cura's default 50mm/s speed but this test cylinder always fails. The 3 and 4mm/s levels are rather poor and it will not even get to 5mm/s. I haven't put anything through this machine but PLA so far. I didn't take any pictures because I have been just tossing the failed print's but I will take some for this thread as I continue to test.

After reading through this thread here's what I've tried so far...

I've disassembled the head and checked the ptfe fitting for friction and filament moves through that piece with no problem. It doesn't appear to be deformed so I replaced it and reassembled the print head. Next chance I get I'll measure with some calipers. Same with the bowden tube, filament slides right through.

I tried adjusting the tension on the stock feeder assembly and increasing only leads to chewed up filament, while the lowest tension setting just creates skipping in the stepper.

I printed out Robert's low friction spool holder and I still have the same results. Same with his feeder assembly. No matter what I have the tension set to this print fails in the same way as it did with the stock assembly.

Other things I've tried were loosening the extuder motor bolts, and changing the current to 1.5A in the gcode. I've been using different filaments, the blue that came with the printer and some others that I've used with no problems on my ultimaker original.

Also tried temp ranges from 210 to 240 and at the highest setting it just created a big stringy mess. The lowest setting gives me skipping or chewed up filament depending on the feeder tension. Even helping the material along by hand doesn't seem to help.

I will be picking up acetone tomorrow to clean the nozzle out. I have some spare bowden tube that I will use to replace the one that came with my UM2. I'll take a good look at the print head while I have it disassembled. I'll also try running this test with a few of the other spools I have. I'm not sure what else to try after this though.

 

[th3o 0]

The thing that did the trick for me is loosening the 4 screws at the head and tighten them just enough to keep everything in place

[aroth 1]

Hello folks,

I seem to be able to print OK parts at Cura's default 50mm/s speed but this test cylinder always fails. The 3 and 4mm/s levels are rather poor and it will not even get to 5mm/s. I haven't put anything through this machine but PLA so far. I didn't take any pictures because I have been just tossing the failed print's but I will take some for this thread as I continue to test.

 

I had similar problems and was able to resolve them using this:

https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/113/original/Ultimaker_2_Atomic_Method.pdf

I now do that every few filament swaps, and it seems to keep the printer happy.

 

[twistx 0]

I did try doing the atomic cleaning method but with the bowden tube still connected. Multiple trys and the filament came out without any noticeable debris and was nicely cone shaped. Can't remember if I set the temp to 260 though, might have been lower. I'll try again tonight without the bowden.

 

[Nicolinux 288]

You should remove the bowden (hot end side) and set the temp to 180°, let it cool down to 90°-85° and then pull the filament out.

 

[twistx 0]

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

 

[twistx 0]

Well, I did the atomic cleaning this time at 180C and I just took the whole print head apart. After it cooled to 90C I pulled out the bulk of filament still in the nozzle and there was nothing on it, no discoloration. I could see all the way down to the opening in the nozzle. I did this a few times to be sure.

However just to be extra sure I decided to take it off and use the acetone to clear any obstructions that I can't see. I let it cool down, pulled the heating cartridge out, then tried the thermocouple but it wouldn't budge. So I stuck the heater back in, cranked the temp back up to 200C and tried pulling the thermocouple out again with a little pressure, this time the leads just broke off. Now the sensor is stuck inside heating block and I'm not sure how to remove it. There's much left to grab on to and pull and it seems to be jammed in there tighter than bark on a tree. The inside of the nozzle has a matte brown surface like its oxidized.

So what can I do from here? My printer won't function and I can't clean the nozzle out because the sensor is stuck in it. Does UM cover this sort of thing or do I need to look for a replacement nozzle and sensor?

 

[stormclad 3]

After many hours of messing around trying to get the ultimaker green to print the test I switched to glow in the dark pla from formfutura and it seems to work leagues better. The quality is more, than night and day difference. I did not expect such huge differences from different filament providers. Anyways I cant wait to start printing at these insane speeds, as i begin to print rocket parts and fin guides. Imagine whole rockets printed out of glow in the dark materials for night launches :-P.

 

[twistx 0]

Steel sheath is stuck all the way in the block.

This is how the interior looks.

 

[solid-print-3d 30]

@twistx,

You can actually repair that while you wait on a replacement.

Check out this post I did where I replaced mine. I was in the middle of a job and couldn't afford to wait for a replacement.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7151-ultimaker-2-temperature-sensor-error/

It's actually not that hard if you have a dremel and a soldering iron

 

[twistx 0]

Thanks Solid. I can't get the sensor out of the block though. Nothing to grab on to with pliers, and its too wedged in there for tweezers.

 

[twistx 0]

Well I figured out how to get the sensor out. Found a screw about the same size as the port and screwed it in so it was tight and used it for leverage to pull the sensor out with some pliers.

 

[korneel 176]

i guess the answer from my ultimaker is no...

 

 

 

any suggestions?