Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

[twistx 0]

Korneel, any clicking or chewed up filament while printing?

Are you using the stock spool holder?

Have you tried the atomic cleaning method mentioned in this thread?

 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Korneel > what temp did you use... its supposed to be printed at 230 c

[twistx 0]

After taking the nozzle off, breaking and fixing the sensor, cleaning the nozzle interior with some brasso as someone else had suggested (it was nice and shiny inside), i replaced the bowden with a new one. Nothing has seemed to help so far. I notice three distinct points of resistance when feeding filament, one is at the intake of the bowden where the retaining clip is, second is the second retaining clip on the hot end, third is where the bowden meets the ptfe spacer. Since I've pretty much eliminated the nozzle as the issue, I'm considering printing Arjan's design with the rails. Currently I'm using Robert's design but as you can see from my prints I'm having absolutely no luck.

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

As you use Robert's feeder design you are able to manually push filament into the Bowden tube and through the heated hotend. I would set the hotend to something like 230°C and check if you can easily push the filament through. If you can, then it's rather a problem of the feeder, if not, then you can check at which position of the filament in the Bowden tube resistance starts.

After you replaced the Bowden tube, did the troubles start immediately again or just after changing filament? If the latter is the case you may check the Bowden for very tiny strands (really hardly visible). They happen when the standard filament exchange routine is used (due to the still hot filament while pulling out). Since I installed Robert's feeder I only use the atomic method to remove the filament and the 'insert material' option in the maintenance menu for the new filament.

 

[korneel 176]

no clicking.

cleaned everything. even took the printhead apart last night, will try again in a few minutes. also atomic cleaning method.

printed at 30 degrees

using the ultiarjan's rail system for the spool. stock feeder.

 

[solid-print-3d 30]

@twistx, you said you replaced the bowden, but did you replace the teflon? I was having similar prints during my tests. Replaced the bowden and the teflon, and it prints sooooo much nicer now. I also use a different feeder. I had trouble with Roberts feeder (not saying anything bad about it, just didn't work that well for me). Like you, I polished the inside of the nozzle as well, for good measure.

Anyways, that's what worked for me...

 

[twistx 0]

@Dim3nsioneer

Manually pushing PLA through is no problem initially but after I stop one of these failed cylinders it its very difficult to move it any further. Which is probably why it fails in the first place. I'm getting the same results now as I was before I replaced the bowden and all of the other parts. I don't think the issue is with the feeder now.

@Solid

I didn't replace the teflon. Although last time I had it out I measured it with my calipers and the top end is around 3.25mm and the bottom is 3.08mm. PLA moved through it freely but depending on the angle of the bowden the holes dont always line up and I have to mess with the tube to get it feed past that point. Was the one you replaced deformed?

I'm working with the idea that the angle of the tube is creating resistance when the print head moves around. Thankfully I can print slowly with only a little underextrusion. I'm hoping Arjan's setup will reduce or eliminate this problem.

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

@twistx: Do you have a thin needle or wire you can push from the bottom into the nozzle while it is heated up to 230°C? If this leads to a massive flow of liquid filament, then somethin is inside the nozzle blocking it. Letting it cool down and using the atomic method should get it out. That was at least the case when the nozzle of my UM2 clogged.

 

[twistx 0]

@Dim3nsioneer I do and I tried that too. I've done the atomic cleaning a few times. Recently took the nozzle off and used a torch to burn out anything left on the inside. Brasso'd the inside to a shine and I could see nothing was in there. I'm convinced its not an issue with the nozzle being clogged but too much friction feeding material.

 

[twistx 0]

I printed out Arjan's rail system and moved Robert's feeder to the top/middle in-line with the center of the build platform. Tried a cylinder print and I was able to get to the 5mm/s section, with some clicking in the 4, but 3 seemed to do ok. I think it may have helped a little bit but still not much improvement.

I'm waiting on a request for a replacement ptfe part since that's the last thing on the list I haven't tried yet. I'm not sure when this printer was built but I read the ptfe was changed to a glass filled version at some point and I can't tell which version mine is.

Fingers crossed because the only other option I see is to try and replace the feeder/bowden setup with the flex3drive.

 

[twistx 0]

Yep. Tried every setting with the stock feeder before moving to Robert's design.

Last night I realized that I replaced the hotend fan with one that has a lower CFM spec. I'm assuming this lets the ptfe piece get hotter than normal so I ordered some 3CFM fans to try.

 

[gr5 2,167]

@twistx my heart goes out to you! You've tried so many fixes!

In some of your posts I think there is a tiny drop of sand in your nozzle but you've cleaned it out so many times!

Please update your lcoation. If you are in North America you can get a replacement isolator within a day or two. But much slower in other countries. UM has a USA factory now. I'm hoping the problem is your isolator. The new one came out roughly March 2014.

A lot of recent printers have a faulty temp sensor that works fine at 20C and 100C but not at 220C. I created this short video to help you test your temp sensor without needing any equipment:

 

 

[twistx 0]

Thanks, Gr5. I'll give your test a try this weekend.

I am in the US-East. I do have a ticket open for a new ptfe piece and a new sensor, maybe glass too if its available, but they seem to be overwhelmed spinning up the new location so response has been a little slow.

Since I'm having no luck as is, I'm thinking of expanding the inner diameter of the ptfe isolator just a hair. I read through Kris' thread and then 3Poro's and there is a lot of good info there. It gave me some things to try (like reversing the hotend fan flow) so I'm not giving up!

Other than that, I have a flex3drive and a UM1 heated bed kit on the way... not sure when they will arrive. I haven't received any shipping notifications yet.

 

[daniel84 0]

Hello Ultimakers,

I also did this test after I got a massive underextrusion at a large print last weekend.

 

I´m not sure how I should interpret this results. At 8mm³/s the layers become thinner and at 9mm³/s a visible under extrusion appear.

 

I had at 5mm³/s and 6mm³/s a temporary underextrusion in one layer. I think the reson for this was the spool/feeder because I heard a klicking sound from the feeder.

 

I´m using the standard spoolholder form ultimaker. Maybe I print a Alternative spoolholder and use the atomic method for cleaning ( never done this before)

 

Do you have any other suggestions ?

 

[ex-parrot 0]

Hi all,

Brand new UM2 fails at the first band with lots of extruder clicking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjsRYRkHB1I

Any suggestions?

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

If the white indicator on the feeder is on top change it to a middle position.

Remove the filament and check the Bowden tube for a very fine strand (hardly visible). If there is one, remove it.

 

[philum2 0]

Hello everyone,

I own a two weeks old UM2 and I'm having lots of under-extrusion problems.

I already tried changing the feeder pressure from low to medium - tried robert feeder (got worse) now I'm printing the ball bearing spool holder. I found this test tried it out:

on the front side the under-extrusion is very visible, but on the back it seems pretty ok a part for the first part

any suggestions?

 

[john-seaton 0]

Here is my first attempt at the 10mm3/s test print

Sorry for the lack of light as my LEDs are out at the moment and I haven't fixed them yet.

Let's just say it has been a long road getting here. I only tried it since my printer has been performing stellar lately. Thanks to Simon at fbrc8 and Pat over at Solidprint3D.com. Still some kinks to work out but she is starting to perform well.

 

[valcrow 144]

Late to the party... but just tested mine!

 

[ex-parrot 0]

If the white indicator on the feeder is on top change it to a middle position.

 

Remove the filament and check the Bowden tube for a very fine strand (hardly visible). If there is one, remove it.

 

Seems my SD card was bad (bizarre, I know)! I swapped out the card and I have no problem getting up to '8' before the E skips. If I up the current to 1500 mA I can get right up to 10 no trouble.

[izo2 0]

i finally succed printed it by rising my pla from 210 to 230.

 

[twistx 0]

Here's the new set of cylinders after replacing the ptfe spacer, nozzle, and temp sensor with the new ones I was sent, as well as my new 3CFM fan. I tried with the fan blowing and sucking through the cooling fins. I pid tuned again on the third attempt and saved the settings to be sure temps are on target. Extruder clicking starts in the 4mm3/s zone until it chews a notch in the filament. I can't seem to get this any better. In fact I think these are worse than the first ones so I'm thinking of returning to the stock feeder to establish a new baseline.

I definitely had an old ptfe spacer, it was a bit translucent compared to the new one which is a completely opaque.

Then maybe temporarily attaching a fan on the front like 3Poro's twin tornado setup. Some extra cooling can't hurt right?

Are the extruder motors between the original and the um2 the same? Maybe I can swap those to verify the UM2 motor isn't the issue.

So frustrating! What else can I do?

 

[twistx 0]

Stock feeder. I get clicking before the first layer even finishes. Every time it clicks there is a reduction of nozzle flow and it creates gaps. I assume this means there is no clog. Around the 4mm level i upped the temp to 240C then 250C and it had no affect on the feeding. Adjusted the feed rate down to 80%, and up to 110%, and still no change.

UM Original feeder has less torque so I didn't try swapping it. I think I just need to buy a new stepper to test that out.

 

[jangermann 12]

Printet ok on my 2 week old UM2.

 

[stu_le_brew 42]

Printet ok on my 2 week old UM2.

 

you don't know just how lucky you are !!!

It too me several months before I could join the 10mm high club - but once there you have only to print all the time

congratulations - good luck !!