Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

[starjeff 46]

I had underextrusion problems after the 2nd week of my purshase (UM2).

I kept printing at least 10h/day since day one and had zero problem.

Two days ago, first underextrusion problems. I thought it was due to ambiant temperature .I had my window open during printing time and it was very cod outside. Naturally, i tried the same pieces but with my window closed and a steady temperature. Still had underextrusion...

Printing parameter:

Layer: 0.1mm

print speed : 80mm/s

Temperature of extrusion: 210°C (PLA from makershop)

Every thing else default settings

Found out this topic and the one about the Atomic Method.

I tried the test and it started skiping layers after the 4mm3/s mark... (i died a little inside when it happened)

I did the Atomic method a couple of time and tried the test a second time.

It started skipping at the 6mm3/s mark. Better but still a fail.

One more Atomic method cleaning method with a new PLA (The white Ultimaker one, barely used). New test. but this time at 230°C. Awesome result. No skipping all the way up! Boomshakalaka!

Changed back to the PLA i started with... still at 230°C. Got to the 8mm3/s and it got messed up again.

I suspect the coil of the makershop spool being responsible for that. It is smaller in diameter compared with the other spool so the coil is more important and must put too much pressure when the filament is moving in the bowden tube.

Plus, the actual spool i was using was half way through so the coil started to be pretty important.

If anyone could back me up on this one, that would be greatly appreciated.

I hope this could help people with the same kind of problems.

Anyway, thanks for the help i found here!

EDIT from StarJeff: After closer examination of the bowden tube, i found a fine strand of material that could have been responsible for the previous failed test. I removed it and started a print before i went to work. I hope it'll turn out good.

 

[pitmaster40 0]

I did the test and this is my result:

I found a bad quality in the first layers as you can see them in this picture.

 

 

[chrisr 18]

Faberdashery PLA. iRobertl feeder modded with metal eyelets in filament path. Cylinder came out perfectly. Printed at 230C

 

 

[abstract 3]

BEFORE AND AFTER MAINTENANCE, 30 Minutes from zero to hero.

Read about it here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8467-serious-underextrusion/?p=80124

 

[shurik 87]

I have UM2 since March. Nowadays, the bowden tube shows signs of wear and tear. I hope to get an advice to find it on the internet.

Recently, the famous Robert's feeder was installed and it is real pleasure to use. However, my machine struggles to go to 5mm3/sec even with it. I put a few drops of machine oil into the existing bowden. What else can be done?

A new teflon thingy costs 15Euro, but the shipment shows as another 41E! :-(

 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I feel it also helps to get a more straight fillament path into the feeder.

the simpelest way to do this is to put your fillament on spoolholder not connected to the printer, and to put it a bit lower (on the floor..) although to low can also create a mess when fillament start unrolling ...

I came up with these ideas ....

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs

 

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-spool-connector

 

(for last link look at the 3th picture)

 

[ultiarjan 1,223]

and about your bowden, can you show a picture of the wear ?

 

[u2fletch 0]

My one week old UM2 successfully completed the cylinder test! Had some initial issues however with the spool holder causing binding of the filament. First few attempts at some longer print jobs resulted in spool wandering away from the printer creating excess drag and subsequent filament grinding and failure. Got that figured out, then found I now had an obstruction in the nozzle. Atomic cleaning to the rescue and then I ran the cylinder test. Since then I have printed and installed Roberts spool holder upgrade and extruder mod. Works wonderfully now without worry of feed issues.

 

[shurik 87]

So, here is one end of my bowden, the other one looks very similar. Any ideas where to get a new one and what else could be done to improve my UM2 output back to 10mm/sec3?

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Shurik, just cut a little piece from your bowden tube (about 10mm) so that the bad part moves down and ouf of the way of the coupling collet.

 

[chrisr 18]

So, here is one end of my bowden, the other one looks very similar. Any ideas where to get a new one and what else could be done to improve my UM2 output back to 10mm/sec3?

The shop sells them: https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/39/Bowdentube

 

[shurik 87]

I'm uneasy on shortening the tube. It is worn out on both ends.

To buy a new one from the shop is nice, but the price is outrageous and the shipping costs are surrealistic.

Some suggested Aliexpress alternative. Would this do:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Accessories-Ultimaker-Bowden-wire-PFA-tube-feeding-tube-68-cm-official-parameters/1889080606.html

?

 

[Nicolinux 288]

I can't see the specs for the bowden tube you mentioned. You'd need to know the inner and outer diameter.

But why not cut a little piece? It is easy. I just did it a few days ago for my 3DR printer. Granted it was a bowden tube for 1.75mm filament - but if you use a very sharp blade - I don't see why there should be a big difference.

 

[chrisr 18]

I'm uneasy on shortening the tube. It is worn out on both ends.

To buy a new one from the shop is nice, but the price is outrageous and the shipping costs are surrealistic.

Some suggested Aliexpress alternative. Would this do:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Accessories-Ultimaker-Bowden-wire-PFA-tube-feeding-tube-68-cm-official-parameters/1889080606.html

?

Best contact the seller and ask them directly - once you've measured the relevant dimensions of the tube you're replacing :-)

 

[gr5 2,167]

I think the inner diameter is 1/8 inch probably (3.175mm). Make sure to get 3X what you need because the tolerance isn't great and you need to test the inner diameter and discard any sections that are too thin. This tubing is easy to get in the USA but I don't know about other parts of the world. I think it's used by Air Conditioners so any company that sells AC parts.

 

[chrisr 18]

If you want to go third party, then as a first call, I'd suggest you email/phone UM for the spec of the tube they supply? Or... just measure the tube dimensions for yourself and then check with the seller that what they're offerring is equivalent?

Personally I'd just bulk up my order from the shop to make the shipping worthwhile... as there's going to be other parts you'll probably need in the future.... teflon couplers... for instance.

 

[cleven 4]

I trimmed mine. Took about 2cm off. No major issue. I did this as a time saver for when I need to order extra parts this way I can combine shipping

[nallath 1,120]

You can check the github for specs of the bowden. It should be there.

 

[shurik 87]

Yup, thanks. The specs are 3.175+/-0.05mm for inner diameter and 6.35mm for the outer one. Will check on ebay first.

 

[tinydancer 0]

I would like to try this test but I'm not sure how to load the file as when I load profile from gcode using the file in the original post, it loads the settings but there is no model in Cura to print.

 

[tottenham12712 1]

I would like to try this test but I'm not sure how to load the file as when I load profile from gcode using the file in the original post, it loads the settings but there is no model in Cura to print.

 

Its already compiled into gcode, just drop that file on your SD card and pop it in the printer.

 

[tinydancer 0]

^^Thanks Tottenham.

Well I got to 7, but as you can see it started to underextrude by the 8mm/s mark.

Edit: Just noticed the original post said 230c. Will try again.

Yup, that did the trick.

 

[skint 61]

nice work Tiny

 

[tinydancer 0]

nice work Tiny

 

Thanks Skint. It was interesting test for me as I've never seen my UM2 run that fast before.

 

[troed 0]

Extrusion cylinder test, Ultimaker 2 received last week. The PLA used is by Velleman, bought from kjell.com in Sweden.

As far as I've been able to understand the comments in this thread, I probably* don't have any extrusion problems. The fail is (?) because of the layer not sticking to the one under it.

 

 

 

The second image shows the inward bending of the layers just on top of the bottom.

 

*) I do have print failures - not a single successful print done so far. Even when using glue the prints comes loose off the build plate.