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mr.-waldorf

Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

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I had underextrusion problems after the 2nd week of my purshase (UM2).

I kept printing at least 10h/day since day one and had zero problem.

Two days ago, first underextrusion problems. I thought it was due to ambiant temperature .I had my window open during printing time and it was very cod outside. Naturally, i tried the same pieces but with my window closed and a steady temperature. Still had underextrusion...

Printing parameter:

Layer: 0.1mm

print speed : 80mm/s

Temperature of extrusion: 210°C (PLA from makershop)

Every thing else default settings

Found out this topic and the one about the Atomic Method.

I tried the test and it started skiping layers after the 4mm3/s mark... (i died a little inside when it happened)

I did the Atomic method a couple of time and tried the test a second time.

It started skipping at the 6mm3/s mark. Better but still a fail.

One more Atomic method cleaning method with a new PLA (The white Ultimaker one, barely used). New test. but this time at 230°C. Awesome result. No skipping all the way up! Boomshakalaka!

Changed back to the PLA i started with... still at 230°C. Got to the 8mm3/s and it got messed up again.

I suspect the coil of the makershop spool being responsible for that. It is smaller in diameter compared with the other spool so the coil is more important and must put too much pressure when the filament is moving in the bowden tube.

Plus, the actual spool i was using was half way through so the coil started to be pretty important.

If anyone could back me up on this one, that would be greatly appreciated.

I hope this could help people with the same kind of problems.

Anyway, thanks for the help i found here!

EDIT from StarJeff: After closer examination of the bowden tube, i found a fine strand of material that could have been responsible for the previous failed test. I removed it and started a print before i went to work. I hope it'll turn out good.

 

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I have UM2 since March. Nowadays, the bowden tube shows signs of wear and tear. I hope to get an advice to find it on the internet.

Recently, the famous Robert's feeder was installed and it is real pleasure to use. However, my machine struggles to go to 5mm3/sec even with it. I put a few drops of machine oil into the existing bowden. What else can be done?

A new teflon thingy costs 15Euro, but the shipment shows as another 41E! :-(

 

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I feel it also helps to get a more straight fillament path into the feeder.

the simpelest way to do this is to put your fillament on spoolholder not connected to the printer, and to put it a bit lower (on the floor..) although to low can also create a mess when fillament start unrolling ...

I came up with these ideas ....

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs

 

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-spool-connector

 

(for last link look at the 3th picture)

 

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My one week old UM2 successfully completed the cylinder test! Had some initial issues however with the spool holder causing binding of the filament. First few attempts at some longer print jobs resulted in spool wandering away from the printer creating excess drag and subsequent filament grinding and failure. Got that figured out, then found I now had an obstruction in the nozzle. Atomic cleaning to the rescue and then I ran the cylinder test. Since then I have printed and installed Roberts spool holder upgrade and extruder mod. Works wonderfully now without worry of feed issues.

cylinder.jpg

 

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I'm uneasy on shortening the tube. It is worn out on both ends.

To buy a new one from the shop is nice, but the price is outrageous and the shipping costs are surrealistic.

Some suggested Aliexpress alternative. Would this do:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Accessories-Ultimaker-Bowden-wire-PFA-tube-feeding-tube-68-cm-official-parameters/1889080606.html

?

 

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I can't see the specs for the bowden tube you mentioned. You'd need to know the inner and outer diameter.

But why not cut a little piece? It is easy. I just did it a few days ago for my 3DR printer. Granted it was a bowden tube for 1.75mm filament - but if you use a very sharp blade - I don't see why there should be a big difference.

 

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I'm uneasy on shortening the tube. It is worn out on both ends.

To buy a new one from the shop is nice, but the price is outrageous and the shipping costs are surrealistic.

Some suggested Aliexpress alternative. Would this do:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Accessories-Ultimaker-Bowden-wire-PFA-tube-feeding-tube-68-cm-official-parameters/1889080606.html

?

Best contact the seller and ask them directly - once you've measured the relevant dimensions of the tube you're replacing :-)

 

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I think the inner diameter is 1/8 inch probably (3.175mm). Make sure to get 3X what you need because the tolerance isn't great and you need to test the inner diameter and discard any sections that are too thin. This tubing is easy to get in the USA but I don't know about other parts of the world. I think it's used by Air Conditioners so any company that sells AC parts.

 

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If you want to go third party, then as a first call, I'd suggest you email/phone UM for the spec of the tube they supply? Or... just measure the tube dimensions for yourself and then check with the seller that what they're offerring is equivalent?

Personally I'd just bulk up my order from the shop to make the shipping worthwhile... as there's going to be other parts you'll probably need in the future.... teflon couplers... for instance.

 

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Extrusion cylinder test, Ultimaker 2 received last week. The PLA used is by Velleman, bought from kjell.com in Sweden.

As far as I've been able to understand the comments in this thread, I probably* don't have any extrusion problems. The fail is (?) because of the layer not sticking to the one under it.

The famous extrusion tube

 

Slight inward bulge at the layers just on top of the bottom layer

 

Closeup of what failed, layer stickiness

 

The second image shows the inward bending of the layers just on top of the bottom.

 

*) I do have print failures - not a single successful print done so far. Even when using glue the prints comes loose off the build plate.

 

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