Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

[Labern 774]

I want to try this on my UM2go, Any ideas how i can modify the Gcode to do this?

[xisle 34]

@labern,

If it's just the X/Y values, that's a quick edit.

[Labern 774]

@labern,

If it's just the X/Y values, that's a quick edit.

Yes it is.

[xisle 34]

Try this Python script.

[Labern 774]

Awesome, I'll try it when I get home. thanks.

[Proxes 1]

Anyone else has problems opening the 'here' link?

I got redirected to the dashboard site of ultimaker forum.

[Labern 774]

@Proxes

You can find it on youmagine here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2

Alternatively you can search "test" in youmagine

Edited May 28, 2015 by Guest

[Proxes 1]

@Proxes

You can find it on youmagine here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2

Alternatively you can search "test" in youmagine

Thanks! Gonna try it tomorrow

[francfalco 37]

First time I've printed with the extrusion test cylinder.

I reckon my machine passed with flying colours!

But i do think it has a lot to do with filament - I swear by Faberdashery here in the UK.

[sambo 3]

I've just had a go with my brand new (two week old) UM2.

It can make 4mm /sec but anything over and it's clearly under extruding. I had hoped by June 2015 Ultimaker would have fixed these problems with the printer.

I'm using Innofil PLA which I've heard is the same PLA as Ultimaker sell. I'll try again with some Ultimaker PLA. Print temp was 230C - and I did a cold pull before the start.

Oh well, I'll have to wade through 59 pages of comments to see what needs to be done to get this new printer working to spec.

TBH I'm very disappointed..

[unccheezy 1]

So things have been better, I downloaded the new cura, updated the firmware and ran the test again, got up to level 9 before I started getting spacing between the layers. I also printed up the low friction spool holder and a new filament guide which I've noticed has taken a ton of tension off the line to the feeder. I'm in the process of printing Roberts alternative feeder to see if I like that one better then the stock.

I switched out the blue pla for clear, i'm playing with the clear just to see what it's like, I'm going to switch again to some grey pla to see how that prints, I've read that the blue stuff is hard to work with. I'll post a print of the grey stuff once i switch it out.

 

can you link these?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

can you link these?

 

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2

[unccheezy 1]

Oh well, I'll have to wade through 59 pages of comments to see what needs to be done to get this new printer working to spec.

 

I did this exact same thing. Turned out to be a problem with the spool.

[unccheezy 1]

I can get to 10 everytime if I cut off a piece and let it dangle from the machine's back end. The spooler is a really big issue. It basically doesn't let enough of the material in, and it's too tight. Looking into a replacement spooler, but seriously, this thing seems to be a huge issue. Looks like it's time for a redesign Ultimaker...

[Labern 774]

I can get to 10 everytime if I cut off a piece and let it dangle from the machine's back end.   The spooler is a really big issue.  It basically doesn't let enough of the material in, and it's too tight.  Looking into a replacement spooler, but seriously, this thing seems to be a huge issue.  Looks like it's time for a redesign Ultimaker...

 

Use Roberts spool holder

[neotko 1,417]

Wouldn't make this easyer if the extruder had a gear like on umo? I know the extruder motor it's 400 steps but even with just a small gear ratio of 1:2 it would increase the torque to a level that will avoid the problems (I assume) of big spools. The motor it's already very precise so with a 1:2 gear it would have great torque and print without problems this torture test.

Edited July 23, 2015 by Guest

[rigs 735]

Won't make it easyer if the extruder had a gear like on umo? I know the extruder motor it's 400 steps but even with just a small gear ratio of 1:2 it would increase the torque to a level that will avoid the problems (I assume) of big spools. The motor it's already very precise so with a 1:2 gear it would have great torque and print without problems this torture test.

 

really good idea

[Labern 774]

Wouldn't make this easyer if the extruder had a gear like on umo? I know the extruder motor it's 400 steps but even with just a small gear ratio of 1:2 it would increase the torque to a level that will avoid the problems (I assume) of big spools. The motor it's already very precise so with a 1:2 gear it would have great torque and print without problems this torture test.

 

I think one reason why it's direct drive is its more accurate then with gears. Gears have to have a little backlash etc.

[joar-t-brunes 2]

I've done some of these tests and I initially stuck to the Pla that came with the printer to avoid an unknown factors. I had a lot of under extrusion and wasn't able to figure out what was wrong until I changed to a Pla from another manufactorer, which work a lot better. The printer is a week old only. Any idea why this is happening? The grey is UM PLA and the orange is from Rs-online. Both at 230 degrees, five minutes apart...

[unccheezy 1]

Use Roberts spool holder

 

yea, I'm going to print it soon, I guess I wonder why UM hasn't decided to include that in the box, or fix theirs. They are still shipping a "consumer" product that doesn't work out of the box well. I've spent a good part of a week reading this forum. without that I would be royally screwed. thank god for the forum. I just wonder how long it will take them to fix it.

[Labern 774]

I've done some of these tests and I initially stuck to the Pla that came with the printer to avoid an unknown factors. I had a lot of under extrusion and wasn't able to figure out what was wrong until I changed to a Pla from another manufactorer, which work a lot better. The printer is a week old only. Any idea why this is happening? The grey is UM PLA and the orange is from Rs-online. Both at 230 degrees, five minutes apart...

 

Although they are both PLA they require different Temps and or other settings to print well. Measure the Dia as it could be a different size. Try a stick to good brands to get consistent results.

[Labern 774]

 

Use Roberts spool holder

 

yea, I'm going to print it soon, I guess I wonder why UM hasn't decided to include that in the box, or fix theirs.  They are still shipping a "consumer" product that doesn't work out of the box well.  I've spent a good part of a week reading this forum.  without that I would be royally screwed.  thank god for the forum.  I just wonder how long it will take them to fix it.

 

I don't think they want quick release design to help make it more simple for beginner users. Pre-heats the nozzle and displays what to do at each step. Also when new filament is loaded you select the material type. This makes sure the temp settings are always correct.

But I totally agree that they should have released something better by now.

[neil1138 1]

Printed at 230C. Colorfabb PLA/PHA. 185hrs of print time. I never print above 50mm/s so this result felt good. A little bit of under-extrusion at the very end, but I'm more than happy with the overall result.

Edited January 3, 2016 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

I redid that test on my UM2 yesterday including the 8-15mm3/s version. Interestingly I got the very same result (up to 13mm3/s w/o significant underextrusion but finished up to 15mm3/s) for my current setup (Bondtech extruder and Olsson Block) as back then about 1.5 years ago (Robert feeder and UM heater block). It is the same heater and the same pt100.

[MTVDNA 2]

TL;DR: I ran this test a couple times using blue (2x), black, white and gold. Here are some pictures.

I tried this test for the first time yesterday, using Dark Blue PLA (I think they changed the name to Ultramarine Blue). I was quite happy with the result. Everything looks fine up to 8 mm³/s, at 9 there's some slight underextrusion and even more so at 10.

Today I used Traffic Black PLA, and I decided to run the test again, with quite a different outcome. I had expected different colours to have different results, but I was a bit surprised by the extent. Near the last lines of the 7 mm³/s section some underextrusion started to show. At 8 the underextrusion became clearly visible, and at 9 and 10 the print was no longer recognizable. This peaked my curiosity so I decided to test the other 2 colours I had laying around: Signal White PLA and Pearl Gold PLA.

Signal White was similar to Traffic Black. It printed perfectly up to 7 mm³/s, showed underextrusion at 8 (though not as bad), and was just strings from 9 upwards. The Pearl Gold did a little better, printing fine up to 8 mm³/s. Halfway through 9 it started to show underextrusion, and from that point on layer adhesion was much worse. The text was still readable though, even at 10 mm³/s. It seems Pearl Gold doesn't stretch as easily as the other colors.

Since I was surprised at how big the difference is, I decided to run the test again using Dark Blue. The results are almost exactly the same as the first time, down to the layer where underextrusion starts to occur, and how bad it is. I am quite impressed by that.

On another note, this test shows the effect of ringing really nicely. If you hold it against the light, you can see the letter s being repeated a dozen times or so due to vibrations of the print head. As the speed goes up, the spacing between the letters increases. I added a picture, unfortunately it's difficult to capture the effect on more than 1 section.

All my filaments are MakerPoint brand, and were printed at 230° C. I use an Ultimaker 2 with an Olsson block, Robert's feeder upgrade and the CPv9 fan shroud by mnis.