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Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...


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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Yep, that's pretty flawless. Your printer rocks (extrusion wise).

Illuminarti's famous test print increases speed (and thus volume) for every "band" you see on your print. To calculate the filament volume per second you have to take the nozzle diameter into account:

 


0.4mm nozzle diameter X 0.1mm layer height X 100mm/s speed = 4mm^3/s

 

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Raising the flow rate isn't compensating. It's making the test even harder: by raising the flow rate you're increasing the volume per second even higher. By setting the flow to 120%, you're actually printing at 12mm^3/s by the end of the test.

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    interesting, I thought increasing flow rate would increase performance. I thought that a little might be good to keep up with extrusion rate and too much would over do it? so i upped it 20%.

    So the temperature is what gives better detail?

    Why then is stock set at 210? I thought 220 would be pushing it. You guys are printing at 230 with 2.85 PLA?

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    I generally print at 230 for utility prints, yes. I might go cooler if a particular print needs it to get the best possible surface finish, but 230 generally works fine for me.

    The extrusion test is designed just to test the throughput of the nozzle; to see whether you can force 10mm³/s through the nozzle without the motor stalling. Raising the temperature makes the PLA more liquid, making it easier to extrude, so the extruder motor has less pressure to overcome.

    The flow setting changes the amount of plastic extruded compared to what it specified in the gcode; so it defeats the point of the test to adjust it.

    You can get some pressure-related underextrusion when printing at higher speeds, which increasing the flow might help to offset - but that's not the point of this test. (See my analysis ofhttp://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ for more details on that - the general principles still apply for the Ultimaker²).

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    What do I need to do to alter this test print to run on an UM1? I am curious where is stands with different diameter nozzles.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    I generally print at 230 for utility prints, yes. I might go cooler if a particular print needs it to get the best possible surface finish, but 230 generally works fine for me.

    The extrusion test is designed just to test the throughput of the nozzle; to see whether you can force 10mm³/s through the nozzle without the motor stalling. Raising the temperature makes the PLA more liquid, making it easier to extrude, so the extruder motor has less pressure to overcome.

    The flow setting changes the amount of plastic extruded compared to what it specified in the gcode; so it defeats the point of the test to adjust it.

    You can get some pressure-related underextrusion when printing at higher speeds, which increasing the flow might help to offset - but that's not the point of this test. (See my analysis of Ultimaker Original under-extrusion for more details on that - the general principles still apply for the Ultimaker²).

     

    Hello all,

     

    In my prints, depending on the material (PLA or PLA / PHA), I work between 210 °C and 230 °C.

     

    I spotted a marked improvement in the production of material by extrusion since the last firmware upgrade. Instead of providing dotted and heat duty for the material flows, this time, the material exits continuously.

     

    Before insertion of the filament Boden I a few drops on the wire WD40. It also reduces friction.

     

    I will try in a few days to see my extruder. I will try stiffened the game with two wheels and two larger wheels. The purpose is to reduce friction and make it less brittle part that want both wheels.

     

    In the meantime, everything works well for me, I am satisfied with the latest firmware.

     

    For the record, and at the extrusion, I come out easily 8mm3 / s. What is not so bad.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    (See my analysis of Ultimaker Original under-extrusion for more details on that - the general principles still apply for the Ultimaker²).

     

    Wow, what an interesting read! I love how the community tries to improve the printers so much and I'll be glad to add to that in the future.

    Like mastory asked, what do we need to do to run the cylinder test on the UM1?

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    About running the test on an UM1 see my post no. 354 in this thread. I did this just for fun; there is not much one can learn from running the test on UM1 as the UM1 extruder behaves quite differently (see e.g. illuminarti's post no. 355).

    What is basically needed to make an UM1 compatible file out of the UltiGCode file provided in post no. 1 is the start.gcode and the end.gcode from Cura.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Hi Bob,

    The gcode file is just a text file that you can edit, I used Wordpad.

    Here's my hack (highlighted in Red) to increase the motor current to 1500mA (1.5A).

    ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 13.12

    ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode

    ;TIME:1041

    ;MATERIAL:6167

    ;MATERIAL2:0

    ;Layer count: 320

    ;LAYER:0

    M107

    M907 E1500

    G0 F4500 X89.56 Y87.02 Z0.25

    ;TYPE:SKIRT

    G11

    G1 F1800 X91.88 Y84.90 E0.31448

    G1 X94.36 Y83.00 E0.62680

    G1 X97.01 Y81.31 E0.94125

     

     

    I wish I never tried this test as my 3 week old machine with less then 100 hours on it failed horribly. At 5mm/3s problems started. Temp 230c bed 60c.... I could hear the motor either skip a step or the drive gear slip I can'T tell what one is happening but it happens way to easy. I cleaned the hot end to get out any possible burnt PLA deposits. I also installed a brand new roll of quality filament, added a roller filament guide, and still got terrible results. I was going to up the feeder amps but you left out some information. I could open and edit the gcode in word pad but when I save the file it changes to a text doc that doesn't get read by my printer. I looked around but couldn't find how to save it as gcode so it can be used. Any help would be great as I am getting useless parts unless they are printed at 20-30mms or slower.

    My printer started strong but now it's quickly becoming a migraine trying to chase down what is causing the under extrusion and it's getting worse with each print. I don't feel this is how a NEW printer in this price range should function. It's like buying a sports car that test drives great but when you get it home you find out it has a bad transmission and the dealer knew about it. It looks great but you can't drive it faster then 30mph and now it's your problem. I don't want to be super negative but $3,000.00 is a huge investment for me and I just need it to work as advertised period.

    So add my printer to the list of poor performers. I will try loosening the hot end screws some but being the printer had no issues on day one. But I think that if this was an issue it would have had an effect right out of the gate but I will try every suggestion on here in hopes of finding a solution..

    I'm not angry just stressed out..........fingers crossed a real solution will be provided by the UM team soon.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Regarding the test file, just change the extension from .txt to .gcode.

    You should definitely get better performance than 5mm³/s. And even 5mm³/s is a lot faster than 30mm/s at typical layer heights. What sort of layer heights are you using? Are you just printing PLA?

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Update...

    After reading through hundreds of posts something like 35+ pages about under extrusion here. I added another roller guide and boosted the feeder amperage to 1.5a. I was able to hit 7mm3/s before UE took place. I happened to be watching the moment it started so I raised the temp to 240c and it recovered untill 9mm3/s then UE returned. It is an improvement but still needs help. I printed a nice 608 bearing spool holder to help even more and may design my own bearing filament guides as well. I will run the test again after I get my bearings in and install the new spool holder.

    I only print in PLA

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    A bit more information for the mix.

    As you may have read a dozen pages or so ago, I went through a long testing process to find out why I had under-extrusion problems and alot was learned.

    In my case the biggest problem was a melt-distorted teflon coupler, but it also became clear there were alot of other smaller things which contributed.

    Anyway - after replacing the teflon coupler, I was finally able to start printing at 0.2mm and increasing speed a little. Having printed for 6 months at 0.1/50mm/s I was actually very pleased with the results at 0.2mm/50mmsec - particularly for engineering parts.

    For the last 2 weeks I have been engaged in 'mass production' of a piece to be used in an Artwork - the artist wants 150 of the same thing, and each print is nearly 90 minutes.

    The benefit of mass production, is that you really get to see the consistency of different changes. A bit like printing this crazy cylinder over and over (you remember doing that ??? !).

    So, after a few tests, and with an acceptance of some quality drop, I chose to print at 0.2mm and 75mm/sec - for the most part this gives pretty good results.

    Also I found another great tip - my print is basically a big antique doorkey, and the prints are done in 2 halfs, split down the center of the shaft. This allows you to print both as semi-cylinders then glue them together for a perfect (ish) print, with no support.

    I soon realised that the Ultimaker 2 was spending quite a bit of time laying down base layers for the 2 sides, which I was about to stick together and no-one would ever see. Eventually I discovered a checkbox in the expert options of Cura which allows you to skip the base layer. Now my prints go right into 20% fill from the first layer, saving about 10 minutes printing those filled layers.

    There is another benefit too - previously I had been superglueing the crisp flat bases together to make the cylinder from 2 halves. This was a tricky business with little room for error and issues like superglue ooze and that white vapour mess.

    Anyway - having skipped the flat base layers, I am now very happily using a glue gun, and the honeycomb 20% fill is the perfect base to apply quite alot of glue on one side, then gently mate it with the other - with the option to shift the positioning for a few seconds to make it perfect. I am really delighted with the results, and the glue gun material has plenty to cling onto inside the 20% fill matrix.

    Finally - to the latest lesson. With this mass-production build I am getting through quite alot of Filament (all PLA). I started off with 2 reels of Ultimaker Black PLA, and this went reasonably well. One reel started to get 'tangled' as it got to the last 30%, and this did cause a few under-extrusion jams. I ended up spooling it off that reel and onto another reel by hand, and following this, the reel continued without any clogs.

    So, where to buy more Filament in the UK. Well - my UM2 has a custom made home in my quite full garage, in a little alcove with a sliding platform so I can slide the UM2 forward to get to the filament. I dont have the space for a floor mounted giant spool - so I am sticking with the regular reel on the back, and 2 filament guides.

    The only reel-based PLA I could find easily in the UK came from 3DFilaPrint. The buying experience was very good, and a reel of black 3mm PLA was promptly delivered at very reasonable cost. However.... as soon as I opened the box I could see that the PLA (from "RepRapper") - was not the same grade as I had been using - the Filament surface is very matt, and textured, and the material is slightly 'biscuity' - like the density is lower ??? It measures out at around 3mm even, which was a bit of a worry given all the clogs I have suffered.

    Anyway - I gave it a try - initially I was a little surprised to see the material looking slightly 'pale' as it came out, a bit grey / charcoal rather than deep black. The print started OK, but after about 10 minutes the whole system was totally jammed up and the rest of the print was ruined. Clearly either the rough texture or the diameter of this material is not going to fly reliably in my UM2. Also, as I removed the sad looking print from the glass I realised that the actual printed filament was not the same as previous PLA prints - rather than a rigid print, this one was rather floppy - so again I think the density/content of the material probably translates into the print. Very sorry 3DFilaPrint - great service - but this Rep-Rapper material (for me) is scrap.

    Fortunately, I had also placed an order with Faberdashery. I have used their white PLA before and had great results, but being a space-limited 'reel' person, I have a big problem with the loose PLA idea (even though I know this can contribute to avoiding underextrusion). Anyway - I took 100m of Black Faberdashery PLA and wound half of it onto a reel (that took about 20 minutes...). This is now medium loosely wound. The next print could not have been more different - crisp, black, and consistent - nothing like the rep-rapper aborted print, and actually quite alot better than the Ultimaker PLA prints (of which I had already done about 50). Faberdashery filament measures 2.85mm which is also great.

    So, to summarise - all PLA is not equal. In my experience:

    Ultimaker PLA : Pretty Good, but hard to buy in the UK

    Faberdashery PLA : Excellent, easy to buy in the UK but not on a reel

    RepRapper PLA (from 3D FilaPrint) : Easy to buy in the UK, but Unusable

    ColorFab PLA/PHA mix : Had some extrusion problems with this, although it was some time ago.

    The 2 symptoms of bad PLA, are tendency to under-extrude (because of diameter related jams, possibly surface friction, and poorly wound-on reels) and quality of finished prints - whether crisp and rigid or 'stale bread - bendy'

    As I have said repeatedly - this whole extrusion path is a symbiotic system - all the parts need to be right to make it reliable - most often its not a single problem causing under-extrusion, so there is no single 'quick-fix'

    Cheers

    Mark

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Redid the print with IRobertI's feeder, first I thought it actually worsened (left) but then I realised I didn't raise the temp to 230º. So i tried again and the result is on the right:

    New prints with IRobertI

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

     

    Just update Cura and firmware to 14.07. Worst test so far i think, I forgot to level the bed after the update so I ran through the leveling and running the test again. Any particular reason why the back side would have a issue like this?

     

     

    20140703 222724

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    The test is fine. Just something went wrong at the start. And it took a while to fix itself. It recovered perfectly, and printed great at the high speeds.

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    yea i noticed that it got better toward the top which is why i was confused, the second test went way better but the very upper layers thinned out compared to the first test.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    because it's just a single wall, the print depends on having plastic to rest each layer on. If the filament tangles briefly, or for some other reason, a layer doesn't lay down right, then the next layer has nothing to stick to, so it just gets pulled straight until something catches. And then for the next layer, there's nothing to stick to still, and it gets pulled until it sticks to what's left of the previous layer. So, you get a big hole, until the accumulated filament ends up back in roughly the right path again, and things start to stick. The print quality of this test is pretty much irrelevant... the only thing that really matters is whether it's still extruding filament consistently without clicking back the extruder by the time it gets to 10mm³/s.

    When you say thinned out... was it skipping steps and clicking, or just printing thinner and under extruding, without clicking? The latter suggests that the tension is still a little bit low, so the full driving force of the extruder isn't getting transferred to the filament.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Hi all

    I have an UM1 since 2.5 years and since Feb. 2014 an UM2. With the UM1 I have no problems resp. could solve any feeding or extrusion issues on my own. I work with Cura 14.07.

    On the UM2 I have underextrusion problems and nothing helped so far. I am desperated....

    After 3 weeks in use with the same original PLA of Ultimaker suddenly the prints showed little holes in it, that look like underextrusion. I did heat up the nozzle to 260°C for 10 min, I disassembled the nozzle to cleat it... Nothing helped. Four weeks later I received a replacement nozzle from Ultimaker. The new one worked again only for about 3 weeks until the next underextrusion happened. I have tried also other tips like not to tight the 4 screws too much or feed the filament directly.

    I have never used ABS.

    Some test results with the testcylinder provided in the thread here. Used original Ultimaker PLA at 220°C. I printed one after the other and put them then next to each other for comparison:

    frontside:

    UM2 underextrusion front V01 02 03 IMG 1340

    backside:

    UM2 underextrusion back V01 02 03 IMG 1341

    from left to right:

    1. v01: standard setting, filament feeded indirectly via the Ultimaker guide roller left of the spool.

    2. v02: loosened the 4 long screws on the hotend a little bit. PLA feeded directly.

    3. v03: like v02 but PLA feeded indirectly via the guide roller left of the spool.

    Next test:

    215°C, 110% flow for the first 0.5mm

    After 0.5 cm decreased speed to 70%

    After 1 cm (after 3mm3/s increased flow to 120%) -> looks very good

    UM2 underextrusion front V04

     

    Next test with other object and now 120% flow rate. Again holes in the print. Oh no...

     

    UM2 underextrusion V05

    What do you think? Any ideas, other suggestions? Could the flow be the only problem and solve the issue? Any feedback highly appreciated.

     

    ...Do not overtighten the 4 screws on the print head

    In my opinion the filament guide on the back can cause a lot of friction, bended filament which also causes underextrusion, try to install the filament guide near to the feeder material in such a way that helps straighten the filament entrance to the material feeder.

     

    Ian's material feeder is also a good extra since it has also a filament guide

    If you are going to install the teflon coupler don't forget to check the inside of the nozzle and maybe you could clean it with acetone

    hey if you have trouble to understand anything, just tell me and I will translate and send you a pm. As I told you in the pm I think it should be better give you the answer in english because it can help others in the future.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    printing test piece at 260°C

    material ABS clear 3mm

    3D Filaprint

    UM2 unmodified

    bed temperature 80°C

    Note that 3 and 4 mm^3/s are transluscent 5 and above just about transparent

    filament feed 117% with diameter of filament set in UM to 3mm

    gallery_34795_1054_5224735.jpg

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Update, I had a good friend help me do several cold pulls to clean out my hot end and after 7-10 pulls the tip was clear of burnt PLA. After this was done the test printed to completion with no issues at 1.5 amps, stock spool holder, roller filament guide, 230c, protoparadigm silver PLA.

    I still got some periodic UE through following prints but believe it is due to my spool being 1/2 way through and not unwinding smooth. I hope to solve this with a custom filament straitener one day but I am up and printing useable parts so I count this as a win..

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    I hope to solve this with a custom filament straitener one day bu

    I've said it a dozen times before. Try putting the filament on the floor:

    Red spool

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    I've said it a dozen times before. Try putting the filament on the floor:

     

    I'd love to, but as a quadriplegic this is not possible for me to deal with a spool on the floor on my own. Plus my printer sits on a countertop with no overhangs allowing me the needed access to manage printing and allow for a floor mounted spool.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    I am far from your average user and count my self very lucky that I can even manage to operate my printer without any finger function as I do. I know the machine and understand what it needs to operate smooth my only draw back is my limmited physical ability that keeps me from fixing some of the issues on my own. I am lucky enough to have a friend with the same machine who helps me out when I get stuck with an issue I can't physicaly fix on my own. In time I will solve most of my problems with adaptive tools and mods to the printer to make it more accessable to me.

    For now Thank you all for your help and know I read and pay close attention to all helpful posts here. However I can only apply some of the proposed solutions at this time.

     

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