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Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...


mr.-waldorf
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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Does anybody know if its easy to change the location on the printbed for this test? Would like to see the impact of friction in the bowden tube (how much its bend). So print one in the left-back and front-right...

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Yes, you can do it fairly simply by editing the gcode.

    Immediately before the skirt starts printing, just add a move to where you want the part to be centered. (0,0) is front left (even though the head homes back left). So to print it over to the right front, you could probably do something like:

    G1 X160 Y 40

    Then add one more line to make the printer think this point is the center of the bed:

    G92 X115 Y112.5

     

    You might need to tweak the coordinates slightly, but that approach should work. That's how we print multiple pieces for automated testing.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Zews, Aroth -

    Both of your posted prints look basically fine. The higher levels get goopy looking because the plastic doesn't have enough time to cool, plus the pressure is so high that the slowing down to print the detail of the lettering tends to cause over-extrusion. The purpose of the test is only to check that the extruder keeps working, and doesn't click backwards, causing large gaps in the print.

    That said, failing at 9 or 10 is certainly not a problem, especially if you haven't adjusted the temperature on the printer to print at the correct temp (230) - which you said in the other thread that you hadn't.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Does it really make sense to use this for a temperature test? I mean if you wait too long with changing temperature, you'd also get more volume per second because the test is designed to increase it over time. Ideally I think you would need an object with the same volume where you can test the temperature gradually.

     

    It makes a great temp test. I start off at ~210 and as the volume rate increases I will need to increase the temp. As it is only a thin wall it becomes extremely obvious when underextrusion begins and the temp can be bumped up.

    Basically, I want to print at the lowest temp possible across the range while maintaining detail.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Ok, good idea. I too want to print at the lowes possible temperature.

    But when the volume increases and you need to increase temperature - you are far away from the lowest temperature. So how do you know which temperature to choose? I still think you would need to have a constant volume.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Ok, good idea. I too want to print at the lowes possible temperature.

    But when the volume increases and you need to increase temperature - you are far away from the lowest temperature. So how do you know which temperature to choose? I still think you would need to have a constant volume.

     

    Im still playing with Speed settings to find a good place for quality. I generally use the 3 to 5 range. While it is printing those sections is where I spend the most time adjusting the temp.

    So, after changing material I select PLA. Go to custom and lower the bed temp to 65 or 70 depending on ambient temps. Begin print and make sure with stock extruder temp is providing flow. If the print looks good I usually knock 5 degrees off after a few layers. If I see any sign of under extrusion I will increase 5 degrees. By the time I get through the 5th ring Ill have a good averaged temp for what Ill be printing with that color.

    I've also found that the front right of the printer provides higher quality than the rear left of the machine. The additional friction can lead to under extrusion.

    Additionally, I've had PLA snap in the bowden and causes extreme under extrusion, this usually happens if the prints are toward the back of the bed. And then there is the pain that it takes to clear the tube and reload material. So I try to stick to the front of the bed now.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Hello everyone,

    I'm late to this party but I've been reading around trying to sort out some issues I've been having with my new UM2.

    All of my prints show signs of under extrusion on the infill, even when printing slow at 30mm/s or high temps at 230C.

    I tried printing this cylinder a few times and even at the 3mm/s level it seems the material is being fed too fast and the extruder motor starts skipping over and over until it chews a hole in the PLA and loses traction. If it does make it past the 3mm/s section, the skipping gets worse as the speed increases and eventually it fails all together.

    I have disassembled the print head, inspected the bowden tube, the teflon piece, and inside the nozzle after clearing out left behind PLA. Filament passes through the bowden and teflon piece without resistance. I removed the extruder from the machine and visually inspected everything and replaced it. I haven't been able to find a single direct cause to this problem.

    Any tips would be greatly appreciated, I have only had this printer a week but at this point I was already getting better prints with my UM1. I'm using the PLA from Ultimaker for these tests.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    One month ago I got the white Teflon coupler from Ultimaker (warranty). I have replaced it together with a new nozzle which I had in stock.

    Actually the underextrusion issues have vanished since I replaced both parts. Since once month the UM2 is working smoothly. No similar issues occurred since then.

    I will watch this carefully, as only replacing the nozzle did not help a few months ago. After a few weeks it got blocked again. Now with the new white thermocouple it seems to have gone...

     

    Hi all

    I have an UM1 since 2.5 years and since Feb. 2014 an UM2. With the UM1 I have no problems resp. could solve any feeding or extrusion issues on my own. I work with Cura 14.07.

    On the UM2 I have underextrusion problems and nothing helped so far. I am desperated....

    After 3 weeks in use with the same original PLA of Ultimaker suddenly the prints showed little holes in it, that look like underextrusion. I did heat up the nozzle to 260°C for 10 min, I disassembled the nozzle to cleat it... Nothing helped. Four weeks later I received a replacement nozzle from Ultimaker. The new one worked again only for about 3 weeks until the next underextrusion happened. I have tried also other tips like not to tight the 4 screws too much or feed the filament directly.

    I have never used ABS.

    Some test results with the testcylinder provided in the thread here. Used original Ultimaker PLA at 220°C. I printed one after the other and put them then next to each other for comparison:

    ...

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    extrusion test

    Day 3 of Ultimaker did an extrusion test with PLA @230deg C

    Came out perfect :)

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

     

    Some time ago my tempsensor broke and i contacted Ultimaker support. Whilst ordering a new tempsensor i also ordered one of the new glass-filled teflon thermocouples. The old one was quite worn out.... at the end it was drilled out to 3.8mm and i could not get more than 3-4mm³/s with silver metallic PLA from Ultimaker. After changing it this is the result. Bliss

     

    DSCF0065

    DSCF0064

    DSCF0063

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Hi, I did the extruder test today, because I have problems with my prints since some time. Holes and stripes, at 230 C. When I bought the printer in Feb, it printed fine, even at 210 C. Last april I made a print of my son's head (was very good at 210 C) and I reprinted this same gcode today with 230 C : lots of horizontal stripes/banding (not really sure how to call it, I am Dutch). I added a picture of both prints. I also have holes in prints but not in this one. When I prints slower, mostly I do not have holes, but still have horizontal stripes.

    The extruder test is a bit strange, maybe you can explain ? It is really very bad at 3 and 4, then it gets better at 6, 7 , 8 and 9 , and 10 is a bit worse but still not too bad.

    Yesterday and this morning before the extruder test, I leveled the bed using the rings. I send you photo's of the last result also : it looks ok to me but I am not sure how to interpret the total ; in the back of the UM it prints a bit less I think ?

    Note : tried to add the pictures but I could not figure out how to.... :???:

     

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    You forgot to add the pictures.

    Regarding the "banding" - from you description it sounds like the z-screw might be a bit loose. Go into the advanced menu and move the heated bed a few times up and down. Watch the z-screw. Does it wobble much? Also observe if the threads are clean or if there is gunk stuck in there. You could clean it and then add the green grease that came with the printer (only add it to the z-screw).

    As for the underextrusion it sounds like the classical teflon piece problem. Maybe you could attach a picture so we can see what is going on.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Argh, sorry. Didn't see your last sentence. Here is how to add a picture (btw. the search in this forum is crap. I don't know how many times I written this because I always fail to find one of the (by now) tousand posts about how to add an image...)

    1. At the top of the screen click on your name and select "My Gallery" from the dropdown.

    2. In top right click on "Upload".

    3. Click on "select album" (or create new one if there isn't one).

    4. Then click on the "Choose Files..." button and select the images you want to attach.

    5. After it has been uploaded click on "Review & Publish" (or something like that).

    6. Check if the images have the correct orientation (if not, click on the small corner arrow beneath each image - "Rotate image" to rotate them clockwise) and give them a title if desired.

    7. Click on "Finish & Publish".

    8. When you post something (in this thread for example), while editing the message, click on the "My Media" button at the top of the input field (to the right of the smiley button).

    9. On the left click on "Gallery Images" and click once on your image you want to paste into the post. Nothing happens, the image will be inserted in the text field right where the cursor was.

    10. Click "Finished" on the lower right and save your post or edit further.

    E.A.S.Y! - I wonder who designed this workflow... Daid I hope it was not you :p

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    1: there is no 'My Gallery', only My profile, My Settings, My Content

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Argh, sorry. Didn't see your last sentence. Here is how to add a picture (btw. the search in this forum is crap. I don't know how many times I written this because I always fail to find one of the (by now) tousand posts about how to add an image...)

    1. At the top of the screen click on your name and select "My Gallery" from the dropdown.

    2. In top right click on "Upload".

    3. Click on "select album" (or create new one if there isn't one).

    4. Then click on the "Choose Files..." button and select the images you want to attach.

    5. After it has been uploaded click on "Review & Publish" (or something like that).

    6. Check if the images have the correct orientation (if not, click on the small corner arrow beneath each image - "Rotate image" to rotate them clockwise) and give them a title if desired.

    7. Click on "Finish & Publish".

    8. When you post something (in this thread for example), while editing the message, click on the "My Media" button at the top of the input field (to the right of the smiley button).

    9. On the left click on "Gallery Images" and click once on your image you want to paste into the post. Nothing happens, the image will be inserted in the text field right where the cursor was.

    10. Click "Finished" on the lower right and save your post or edit further.

    E.A.S.Y! - I wonder who designed this workflow... Daid I hope it was not you :p

     

    Sorry , this did not work: no My Gallery (1) and (8 and 9) image is not inserted either

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    On the top LEFT of this screen click "Gallery", then the blue "UPLOAD" button. Later when making a post click "my media" near smile icon.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    @dinkykb: This is due to your status as a new users. I think you need at least 5 posts to access the forum's full functionality...

    So say something nice and let's hope gr5 or another moderator will approve it quickly :)

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Argh, sorry. Didn't see your last sentence. Here is how to add a picture (btw. the search in this forum is crap. I don't know how many times I written this because I always fail to find one of the (by now) tousand posts about how to add an image...)

    1. At the top of the screen click on your name and select "My Gallery" from the dropdown.

    2. In top right click on "Upload".

    3. Click on "select album" (or create new one if there isn't one).

    4. Then click on the "Choose Files..." button and select the images you want to attach.

    5. After it has been uploaded click on "Review & Publish" (or something like that).

    6. Check if the images have the correct orientation (if not, click on the small corner arrow beneath each image - "Rotate image" to rotate them clockwise) and give them a title if desired.

    7. Click on "Finish & Publish".

    8. When you post something (in this thread for example), while editing the message, click on the "My Media" button at the top of the input field (to the right of the smiley button).

    9. On the left click on "Gallery Images" and click once on your image you want to paste into the post. Nothing happens, the image will be inserted in the text field right where the cursor was.

    10. Click "Finished" on the lower right and save your post or edit further.

    E.A.S.Y! - I wonder who designed this workflow... Daid I hope it was not you :p

     

    Tried again ; I created an album now and uploaded pictures. Here are the 3 pictures I mentioned.

     

    040

     

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Additionally, I've had PLA snap in the bowden and causes extreme under extrusion

     

    That's common with old PLA. Order a new batch of PLA. Keep it in sealed bags when not in use. Some people say it's humidity related but I suspect it's out-gassing or something else.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    People can post pictures on their very first post but I suspect the "my gallery" is unavailable until you create a galery.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    Several recent Ultimaker 2's seem to have defective temp sensors that read normal at 20C but read 30C low at 100C and at 220C. Test it by setting the nozzle temp to 110C and waiting a full minute after it reaches that temp. Then dip your finger in water and touch it to the tip of the nozzle and leave a small drop of water there. If you look at the drop closely it should be (quietly) boiling quite rigorously. Tiny tiny bubbles moving quickly and almost silently.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    If the sensors read lower values than in reality shouldn't the test then work the other way round (setting something like 80°C and check if the water boils)?

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    That's common with old PLA. Order a new batch of PLA. Keep it in sealed bags when not in use. Some people say it's humidity related but I suspect it's out-gassing or something else.

     

    When do you consider PLA to be 'old' ? looks like the batch is from last Feb and I kept in the sealed bag untill I started using it some 3 weeks ago.

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    You forgot to add the pictures.

    Regarding the "banding" - from you description it sounds like the z-screw might be a bit loose. Go into the advanced menu and move the heated bed a few times up and down. Watch the z-screw. Does it wobble much? Also observe if the threads are clean or if there is gunk stuck in there. You could clean it and then add the green grease that came with the printer (only add it to the z-screw).

    As for the underextrusion it sounds like the classical teflon piece problem. Maybe you could attach a picture so we can see what is going on.

     

    Did you have a look at my extrusion test result , being very bad at 3 and 4 ? What do you think about it ? Regarding your request for pictures related to the teflon piece problem : what kind of picture do you need , is the picture of the test not what you meant ? Or a picture of the teflon piece ?

     

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    Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

    I looked at it but I still don't have an idea. It does not make sense to give such bad results at 3-4. Is it repeatable? Did you watch the feeder to see if filament gets tangled or if it is blocked somewhere on the way?

    I think you have two problems here. The one is the bad extrusion and the other is the "banding" which should be related to the z-stage.

    As for the z-stage - I'd take it out and clean it. I'd also check if the screw is flat/even and not bent.

    The extrusion problem still baffles me. Try another filament brand and watch the feeder (especially at the beginning). Also, do you hear the typical skipping sound when the feeder skips and the filament is pushed back?

     

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