Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

[mostlyatomicbob 34]

Aaron, I'm with you on the creep idea.

I believe the glass temp of PTFE is about 120deg C.

I am given to thinking that under normal printing this would not be such a problem but if the printer was left with no filament flowing through the hotend. For example when the nozzle gets clogged during a print.

I am just theorising here, but it is a possibility.

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Great to hear @braddock :-P!

I can't find the post now, but either Daid or Sander suggested to spray some WD-40 in the bowden tube to see if it would help. I'm glad that such an easy fix helped you in your case; I suppose it's another thing to add to the list of fixes that work.

 

I think it was me on Nicolinux post, but I believe for Nico it did not make the difference.

I am glad to hear for Braddock it did

You do have to be careful that you do not use too much as it may interfere with bed-adhesion.

Good to read your problem seems to be solved Bob

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Yeah, it was me - but it didn't make a difference...

Sander, by the way. Can the WD40 also be used to lubricate the x/y axis?

 

[geeks 1]

I do not understand the history of WD40 there. :oops:

 

Should we put in the transparent part?

Should we put in the white part?

Should we put dessosu the white part?

 

What will be the consequence for the PLA?

What will be the consequence for the nozzle?

 

[canadadrones 1]

Got the issue of under extrusion at around 6.5

I am still waiting to see if anyone got a very good design feeder to print.

I have limited time but on the other end all my prints take quite some time to run... I should put the effort now and fix this. I did check the nozzle, the Teflon tube, the temperature (this print was with PLA at 230) The spool is a brand new one. I will reprint today and try to make the filament straight this time to see if it is only stress on the mechanism.

 

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Hey Geeks, it's pretty easy. Check out this post(s). Sander mentioned that one can use the WD40 spray to help the filament through the bowden tube:

 

• http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/?p=34338
  

 

It did not make a difference for me, but it didn't make things worse, so I'd say it is not bad

 

[geeks 1]

Ok!

 

Good searh :cool: thank you

 

I would try the manipulation.

 

However, I doubt at the boden. I've noticed since I've had my problems that the party was held at the top of the head, or where there is the music, the tube was not right.

 

This perhaps explains it.

 

Nothing prevents me put some wd40 on the next insertion of filament.

 

[canadadrones 1]

Ok well... this is fun, nice for me and little help for those of you working hard to "fix" the "issue"

I did another test (double cylinder test, to also stress the retraction)

setup EXACTLY as before with only 1 thing different.

The Spool was on the ground and I had made sure to reduce as much as possible the coiling and radius of the PLA I was going to use.

This is not really a nice thing to do as it means you cannot let the U2 run alone all night on long prints. But look at this:

 

So for my particular situation, having a longer tube going to the feeded and having a friction free spool would most likelly make this the perfect machine.

 

I will try a couple solutions out there that I have seen. will report later! (but now I can concentrate on printing and faster!... but need to watch the filament going in... )

 

[skint 62]

nice job drones!

 

[mr.-waldorf 0]

Hi Geeks,

Did you already made the extrusion test?

Should I add you to the "problem list" ?

Thanks

 

[chrisr 18]

Schafe, on 01 Mar 2014 - 03:02 AM, said:

A buddy just had an awesome suggestion!! It is so obvious I'm shocked no one has considered this. I will get to work right away modifing my UM2 for the Turbo Encabulator upgrade. I think I have a source for the Spurving bearings which will need to be smaller than the original design.

Given the overall "geeky" nature of the people participating in these topics I suspect most of you are familiar with the Turbo Encabulator. For those of you who have never heard of this amazing device here is a link:

 

 

Fabulous!

I can see his mouth moving and I can hear words coming out and solely for that reason I'm now firmly of the conviction that every household should have one of these

 

[productdesign 0]

HI Folks just read all 5 pages of this thread illuminati pointed me to.

The assessment is Im getting extruder skips. I see folks tweaking their Bits :oops: ..tpfe parts and discussing spool to feed radius and wd40 the bowden..

Thing is did it occur to anyone this was post update. I never had these issues before the recent cura and marlin updates. I also notice a slight flickering of the LEDs when in use. Could it be something is steeling power from the motor. or what ever reason induces a skip in the drive motor. I say its bad on UM if the motors are skipping at all. Lets leave it with the knurl wheel grinding as the limiter know we have mechanical slip/ grinding and or skipping.

IS it Daid, who does this new firmware? Surely a trend could be easy to see by UM, Sander - Comments?

Certainly interested to know what generates a skip in the system and how this could be tweaked out. I am reluctant to have to mess with code, UM should do this out of the box imho, as this seems a step back from UM1.

Keen to get a fix so I don't have to build at a snails pace. :shock:

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Hi,

the flickering does not have anything to do with the extruder skipping. I remember Daid commenting on the issue (led flickering) and it was unrelated.

 

[illuminarti 18]

This is an issue that has been going on for a while - I know for a fact that Ultimaker is hard at work on identifying the root cause(s) and testing possible solutions. There's no particular reason to think that it's tied to any particular version of Cura or Marlin. It seems that it's probably a combination of several different things that all have to line up exactly wrongly (literally and figuratively) for the issue to arise; while several people have had the problem, lots do not. I've personally tested quite a few UM2's looking for this issue, and only seen it at all in less than 10% of the machines I tested, and then only to a slight extent.

 

[braddock 1]

I've had under extrusion long before updating the firmware / cura.

 

[geeks 1]

Hi Geeks,

Did you already made the extrusion test?

Should I add you to the "problem list" ?

Thanks

 

Yes, I under-extrusion of worries. You can add me to the list.

 

It is because of this that I realized an extruder with a larger displacement.

 

However, I had the following phenomena in order.

1 / Debris abs caches have come to the extruder nozzle.

2 / temp sensor was loose, the temperature rises above 260 ° C but I cut the machine to avoid damage.

3 / Since the problem # 2 it is impossible to have a stable temperature during printing. See the addition of a résustance the pull-up and a future software update may solve this problem.

4 / The white stuff called Teflon I suspected PTFE. At home I have enlarged, certainly too large. This is not good. The filament swells inside.

5 / nozzle to certainly suffered problems above.

6 / Bodden seems forced the passage of the filament.

 

I think it makes a lot of problem for this system. But I think I have eliminated a lot of things.

For 1 / I print PLA cache and since I have more problems with debris.

For 2 / I redo all the connections with reliable solder it has limited my problem.

For 3 / It will update for pull-up resistor.

For 4 / I get a replacement tomorrow.

For 5 / Before the change I'll try to solve the problem of non-constant rate.

For 6 / I'll try to put a little WD40 into the tube

 

Based on these developments, I'll let you know. But I doubt that is the only expliquation the extruder itself. It is obvious that there is some boden much, such as Teflon and the probe.

 

[schafe 3]

I had a great idea!! Not a fancy solution, but a simple work around. Worked great at first then got progressively worse. Nevermind. It seems my machine gets worse the longer it stays on.

Go Team!! Go!!

 

[mr.-waldorf 0]

Hey Geeks can you send me a Pm with your last post but in French?

Thanks

 

[geeks 1]

Mr Waldorf, Ok

 

[Daid 306]

I've not read trough the whole topic yet. Just wanting to let you know that we will be reading trough this shortly (as you can imagine, we're quite busy)

The test however, is awesome. We've ran it on different machines with different results. The worst result we had was only 3mm/s^2, so that's bad...

 

[illuminarti 18]

 

The test however, is awesome. We've ran it on different machines with different results. The worst result we had was only 3mm/s^2, so that's bad...

 

Thanks, Daid :-) Hopefully it will be a useful tool for y'all. In the testing I've done, the worst I've seen is failing at 7, and that improved to failing at 10 after I dismantled and reassembled everything.

[mr.-waldorf 0]

Hi Geeks,

Many thanks for the pm it helped to understand better the problems that you have experienced.

About temp flutuations, I think that your temp sensor is OK. It's normal to observe a flutuation of 1ºC or 2ºC especially when the fan's turn on. If you had a defective temp sensor it should give you a error and it's not the case.

So please check in cura the cool settings (expert settings), aren't your fan's turning on before the 5mm height?

fan full on at height: 5mm

fan speed min: 100%

fan speed max: 100%

min speed: 10mms

About your printed material feeder, I think that can be better than the original one, since you can adjust better the tension in to the filament, however I am having sucess with the stock material feeder.

I know that you received today a new teflon coupler, I don't advise you to drill the teflon coupler but you should check the inner hole of the new teflon coupler. I think if you go over 3.1mm you will destroy it.

Also check the bowden tube tip's, if they are in some way crushed you should cut the tips to avoid jams or friction

Do not overtighten the 4 screws on the print head

In my opinion the filament guide on the back can cause a lot of friction, bended filament which also causes underextrusion, try to install the filament guide near to the feeder material in such a way that helps straighten the filament entrance to the material feeder.

 

Ian's material feeder is also a good extra since it has also a filament guide

If you are going to install the teflon coupler don't forget to check the inside of the nozzle and maybe you could clean it with acetone

hey if you have trouble to understand anything, just tell me and I will translate and send you a pm. As I told you in the pm I think it should be better give you the answer in english because it can help others in the future.

 

[geeks 1]

Well, that's great stuff. :cool:

 

To the probe, it is OK.

For Cura, I have these settings.

 

Guidewire, ok!

The nozzle is cleaned, I looked the new PTFE / Teflon is of 3.1mm.

 

I finished creating my own charger now I Riding images later. Let 2h time to finish the last part

 

[mr.-waldorf 0]

Guidewire= filament guide=OK

"I finished creating my own charger now I Riding images later. Let 2h time to finish the last part"

So you are finishing to print your new material feeder and you will upload some images later. Hope you can solve your problems. I look forward for new developments/findings...

 

Bonne chance

 

[geeks 1]

Thanks you Mr. Waldorf