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Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Things are looking good :-) Is there any obvious damage to the old Bowden tube?

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Quite a bit actually, see pic. In my early days of pulling things apart, I wasn't particularly careful removing the bowden. I noticed the gouging isn't only on the surface, but does actually restrict the filament at that point also.

 

 

bowden gouge

 

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Same as above!

 

A question ... A force to disassemble and reassemble, is that it could damage the boden?

 

Another question. I think I have seen a kind of paste between the mechanical part that hold the Teflon holder. Bright brown color! What is the matter? My home in removal force, I do not have this tab!

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

That's copper paste/grease Geeks, nothing to worry about.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

@Schafe - Acetone only dissolves ABS, not PLA. So while it may help, I find it better to put the whole thing in a hot flame (but not so long as to melt the copper) and burn all that plastic to ash. Then just tap the ash out or use the "Hot Cap" method or whatever you called it.

@Schafe - I don't know if you can remove the nozzle that way (from the bottom). The unscrewing part will work.

You certainly need to remove the fan bracket first.

There is a vertical threaded screw like thing that also goes into the nozzle that holes in the two electrical components (heater and temp probe). I don't know if the elec component's wires are long enough to take it apart that way. Probably it will work though.

On the other hand, unscrewing the 4 long screws and then pushing down on the bowden holder and pulling the bowden out really doesn't take long.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Printer is only 1 hour of prints old but thought I'd test it... failed at 10mm3

Extrusion test

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

@Schafe - Acetone only dissolves ABS, not PLA. So while it may help, I find it better to put the whole thing in a hot flame (but not so long as to melt the copper) and burn all that plastic to ash. Then just tap the ash out or use the "Hot Cap" method or whatever you called it.

 

The acetone that I use (not nail polish remover) melts the PLA also, but ABS dissolves faster than PLA.

I am having success with acetone to clean the nozzle

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Printer is only 1 hour of prints old but thought I'd test it... failed at 10mm3

 

Looks good, Stuart. Nothing to worry about. Enjoy your printer!!

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Hi Stuart,

Congratulations, you have the best printer on the market, immediately after mine! ;)

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

 

HEY!!!!!

 

someone stole my advanced membership!?

I was an advanced member and now I am just a member.... Bastards

I am going to print a baseball bat...

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Remember to use zero infill on the bat to keep it light, so nobody 'accidentally' gets hurt.... :-p

Yes, we took away everyone's advanced membership. For now, everyone is just a 'member', once they complete newbie probation. It used to be that anyone automatically became an 'advanced' member once they'd made 30 posts; but we felt that was a bit meaningless, and might confuse new members. People can make 30 posts just trying to find out when their order is going to be delivered :-) , and not actually have any l33t Ultimaking skillz to share yet.

So, for now everyone is tagged as a member. Don't take it personally :-). We might put in place some new system to recognize our more esteemed and experienced members in the future, but there are bigger things to worry about at the moment.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

I am sorry can´t comment on that... I am just a member, do not want to disrespect any moderator. (especially my favorite one)

However I never saw any new user confused with this and although there are bigger things to worry at the moment somebody is spending time on minor things... ;)

Well, the important thing here is to keep this thread on first page and this way we can help newbies, members, moderators and Ultimakers :)

for the users with less sense of humor, I want them to say that I'm just kidding, it does not make sense to became an advanced member after 30 posts.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Are you sure you're just a "Member" Mr. Waldorf? :p

Don' t hate me, just teasing :D

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Are you sure you're just a "Member" Mr. Waldorf? :p

Don' t hate me, just teasing :D

 

:shock: :eek: :lol:

I do not hate you Robert, or anyone in this forum. I do not want to be special because i am not. thanks for the crown, there were other more qualified candidates to receive this trophy, but I'll accept it with humility and dignity.

From now on I will dedicate myself only to the noblest posts and threads

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Still crappy, unpredictable performance.

I did the Has Cap trick today and the blue filament came out blue. A few weeks ago after printing PLA for many hours at 250C I did this trick and the blue came out brownish grey several times. I think it does a pretty good job of cleaning the nozzle. I have never gone above 240 since then.

Today I completely disassembled the head. The bowden tube felt fine as I slid filament through it, although I will mention that I also have a deeply gouged section where the clip has dug in. It is in the section for the head or I would just trim off that possible bad section.

My teflon piece had the same lip at the bottom I think Nicolinux first described. This lip is enough to snag the filament when it passes through. I used an 1/8 inch drill bit to clean up the hole as best as I could. I have not seen the specs on the teflon piece or the nozzle, but an 1/8 inch bit fits much better than a 3mm bit. BTW 1/8 inch equals 3.175mm. I did not eliminate the lip, but I did not want to be too aggressive with the bit on the teflon and make the whole thing much worse.

We all have a pretty good idea of what it takes for things to work and I didn't see anything that concerned me when looking at the nozzle or the silver cylinder. Looking in the nozzle it looked like brass which had been really hot but there was no sign of char or anything else. Inside the silver cylinder there was burned plastic of some kind. I soaked both in acetone. In the bowl I was using, brown specks did appear that came from the 2 pieces. Some were from the threads and some were from the inside of the 2 parts. I used a pick to remove all of the char from the silver cylinder. I then used the 1/8 inch bit to clean out the nozzle. I did notice that from the factory the brass nozzle was not screwed all the way into the silver cylinder. (For my next print I had to adjust the bed height with the 3 screws.) I reassembled the head following the bowden tube attachment rules. I was doubtful I had fixed the problem.

The next print on a "cold" printer was a 9. I was pretty happy. I cleared out the machine and printed again. Got a 7.5, not bad. The next was a 5.5. I then loosened the 4 screws holding on the feeder assembly. I loosened them to the point that the assembly was almost "sloppy" loose. The next print was a 5. This represents a typical cylinder print session for my printer. The results get worse the more I print. This supports the theory that something is getting too warm.

As I mentioned, I really didn't think a complete cleaning was going to solve anything for me.

My next step is to exchange the feeder motor with the axis motor directly above it. I have not checked for sure but I think they are the same and no one has said differently when I mentioned it previously.

When that doesn't work, which I suspect it won't, all I have left is to start trading out parts. Sometimes in my maintenance job we have to do that. Just throw parts at a machine until it starts working.

Something I don't think anyone has considered, at least not on the topics I've read so far, is the power supply. I'm sure this is just a power supply Ultimaker sourced and bought for this printer. One thing strange about mine is that whenever I unplug it from the wall the "power on" light stays on for a very long time indicating there is still power stored in the capacitors. I have not timed it, but I'd say it is easily 5 minutes or more. I'm used to power supplies having a bleed down resistor to eliminate the voltage in the capacitors.

I'm not very familiar with power supplies but I know there are capacitors, diodes and other magic dodads that convert AC power to DC. Is it possible that my power supply has a "tired" dodad that quits when it gets too warm. When it quits does it then supply too little voltage or current for a brief second, or too much voltage or current. I never unplug the power supply from the wall except when moving the printer. I mention this because it is about all that is left.

If exchanging the stepper motors doesn't work, my parts request will be a new nozzle, silver cylinder, white teflon piece and bowden tube. I doubt those parts will fix anything. I will also ask for a new power supply and mother board. (The mother board has all plug in connections doesn't it? I'm not comfortable soldering on delicate circuit boards.) Might as well get them all at one time and I will throw parts at my printer until something changes.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

I forgot this:

IMG 0419

If you look in the 4 ring, there is a section where several laps were made that don't have the same amount of material. The feeder never skipped, but it just didn't squirt out enough PLA. This happened right at the start of the 4 ring and never showed up again. This is the 9 print mentioned above and was done on a "cold" printer. It was also the first print after reloading the filament after the cleaning. That might be the issue, just a small clog after the cleaning that went away.

Sometimes I have "clogs" that are hard to pass. . .

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

No, the motors aren't interchangeable. The X/Y motors are smaller, and are 200 steps per revolution, not 400.

Yes, the electronics board is all-plug, no soldering.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

I have not timed it, but I'd say it is easily 5 minutes or more.

 

I think blue light stayed on for 30 minutes once - I unplugged it and brought it to another room and threw it on a chair without plugging it in. I got distracted with another project and a half hour later came back and the blue led was still on - amazing.

You can check the voltage of the power supply. It's supposed to be 24V. You can check it while you are printing.

Consider doing this test to eliminate problems with the stepper and feeder:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4222-pulling-force-of-um-extruder/

Also consider removing the bottom cover to you electronics just to let it cool a little more. The larger cover.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

I'll have to add a new motor to my parts list.

I have removed the cover with no change. I considered a fan but never did.

I will take apart the head again - sigh.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Hey guys! (and potentially girls, it's hard to tell with all the avatars)

It's been a crazy week at work, last night I was there until 12:30 AM! loosing my sanity; it was pretty fun nonetheless. My printer is slated to arrive on Monday, and the first thing I'm going to print is the cylinder. I know the Ultimaker Robot seems to be the traditional first thing to print, but I'm curious to see how the printer performs out of the box (after I perform a hefty inspection); so soon I'll have some updates to contribute to the thread. I'll try to document the inspection of the printer as best as I can and find somewhere on the forum to post my findings.

It's been a while since I've been able to sit down and read the forums in peace, it's nice to see there are a lot of people finding success in getting their printers running as efficiently as possible. Thanks Mr. Waldorf for starting this thread, it has helped out many people, probably even more than who are responding.

Thanks for the detailed posts Schafe, it's interesting and informative to see how things are playing out for you. Also double thanks for the tip; next time I'm in Iowa, I'm totally checking those places out :mrgreen:. I wish I knew you when I lived in Nebraska.

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Hi Schafe,

Damn I was really convinced that your problem was a dirty nozzle.

It's interessant to observe the numbers It seems that something deteriorates with time, hence I have thought it could be related to a clogged nozzle given the high extrusion temperatures used and the apparent increase of deterioration

 

2 X 10 - perfection

2 X 9.5 - had a small error in the 10 ring

2 X 9

2 X 8

1 X 7

2 X 6

2 X 5.5 - a small error in the 6 ring

5 X 5

2 X 4.5

4 X 4

4 X 3.5

10 X 3

6 X 2.5 - errors started in the 3 ring

I do not know what else to suggest to check, perhaps using the excellenthttp://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/page-28#entry39843 and use it as a sort of checklist!? So far what have you checked/changed in your printer?

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

Another thought...

What about the 3rd fan? It seems to me that his function is to cool the teflon coupler!? right? ... Is your 3rd fan always spinning with the same intensity? is well fitted? pushing air in the right direction?

Perhaps you can measure the air flow with an digital anemometer....

What are the consequences if the 3rd fan stops? is possible to achieve the higher rates of extrusion with the 3rd fan stopped?

I think illuminarti had problems in the past with the 3rd fan and probably knows the effects of a faulty fan. Can a too hot teflon coupler expand and generate more friction in to the filament?

 

 

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

The third fan runs all the time to cool the top of the hot end, and prevent the plastic from deforming in the Bowden/Teflon part. It's hard wired to 5V, so it runs all the time.

When I first got mine the fan wasn't running, and extrusion was very poor. I ended up replacing my fan with an equivalent one for various reasons.

If for some reason the fan wasn't working properly, it definitely could cause extrusion problems I think.

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Posted · Can your UM2 printer achieve 10mm3/s ??? Test it here...

So far the only thing I have not tried is a shot of WD-40 in the tube. I doubt that will change anything. I will try removing the mother board cover and placing a small fan below. I have tried printing without the cover and there was no change. I don't think a fan will improve anything.

Right now the spool is below the feeder hung on a short pipe. I have a guide set up to align the filament with the feeder hole. Neither of these changes has made a difference I can observe.

The bad news is I am almost out of the PLA that came with my machine. The good news is I ordered some PLA from printbl.com which illuminarti recommends. That should be delivered very soon.

I will have to borrow a good meter that saves its readings. I have not read where anyone has recorded the voltage being supplied to the printer. Even if they have, it is likely there was nothing to report. There is something uniquely and terribly wrong with my machine. It might be the power supply or maybe not. At least I will have the data that proves no change in supply voltage and rules out the power supply as a problem. I guess I'll use a stopwatch and start recording voltage when the printer first starts extruding PLA for the cylinder. I'll stop timing when there is a skip and then compare that time to the saved data.

Aaron, you would be a much better person to perform the voltage tests than me, and you have all of the equipment. I bet you don't have a picture of youself in front of The Five Seasons Tree. When you come we can seek out the local "talented" young ladies. My wife admits to enjoying their "talents" before we were married. I have not asked too much about this because I'm slightly nervous about the answer, but I am also slightly curious. She could go with us. It might turn into an incredibly strange evening. You would have this great story that begins "This one time I went to Iowa . . . "

If you are wondering about the 5th season in Cedar Rapids, it is "The season to enjoy." Lame

 

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