Cura settings to print clear items using transparent PETG

[GrantBaxter 0]

Hi All

 

I am wanting to print fresnel lenses using transparent PETG. These lenses will be used in photographic studio lights and need to be as clear as possible.

 

I have a Biqu B1 SE Plus printer and I am struggling to get the printer and slicer settings correct in order to print clear. I know that there will be some post printing finishing required, however, I am getting opaqueness within the print, not just on the outer surfavcs.

 

If anybody can help with optimal settings, I would appreciate it - I am using the latest version of Cura.

[Slashee_the_Cow 493]

Basically, you want to use as little material as possible - the thinnest lines, and lowest number of walls you can get away with, as well as the least amount of infill which gives you enough strength.

 

But you also want to use the thickest layers you can get away with, because that reduces the number of seams.

 

Different infill patterns will also give you different results - the default is cubic, because it's really good for strength, but it also creates a bunch of enclosed areas inside the model. Something like lines should keep the inside a little clearer... except maybe where the lines are, at the expense of strength, but PETG tends to be fairly strong, so unless this needs to stand up to a lot of abuse, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

Just try and do what I do and test in small scale first. Unless you're rich enough that you can just buy a pallet of filament. If you are, can you sling some of that filament my way?

[FredFish 4]

I use Esun transparent PETG, clear?  Well almost,

here is some hopefully useful tips I use for my E3,

 

print as hot as you can without stringing (I use about 240c but PETG string a lot),

 

if you need fill, set fill pattern all in one direction depending on final light source(I use 100% fill all at 90 degrees),

 

 typically the extruder path leaves rounded edges of extrusion on fill patterns, the extrusion then squishes up to the next edge, these edges together create the fill pattern, sometimes this doesn’t work, and you get white fill (air pockets) visible by looking across the fill pattern direction more than with the fill pattern direction, for this you can try smaller Z step (depending on nozzle size) or use smoothing for all layers to flatten and fill in these edges.

 

 finally yes you will go through lots of tests before you get it correct so keep track of what changes are made for what print, because just when you think you get it right, some little variable will change and you will be back readjusting again :) , printing transparently with a FFF printer is tricky, but can be done.

[Slashee_the_Cow 493]

8 hours ago, FredFish said:

 finally yes you will go through lots of tests before you get it correct so keep track of what changes are made for what print, because just when you think you get it right, some little variable will change and you will be back readjusting again 🙂

The best way is to save each attempt as its own project (3mf) file, and then stick a note to your prints saying which file it is (just number them, it's easiest that way)

[GrantBaxter 0]

On 10/14/2023 at 6:35 PM, FredFish said:

I use Esun transparent PETG, clear?  Well almost,

here is some hopefully useful tips I use for my E3,

 

print as hot as you can without stringing (I use about 240c but PETG string a lot),

 

if you need fill, set fill pattern all in one direction depending on final light source(I use 100% fill all at 90 degrees),

 

 typically the extruder path leaves rounded edges of extrusion on fill patterns, the extrusion then squishes up to the next edge, these edges together create the fill pattern, sometimes this doesn’t work, and you get white fill (air pockets) visible by looking across the fill pattern direction more than with the fill pattern direction, for this you can try smaller Z step (depending on nozzle size) or use smoothing for all layers to flatten and fill in these edges.

 

 finally yes you will go through lots of tests before you get it correct so keep track of what changes are made for what print, because just when you think you get it right, some little variable will change and you will be back readjusting again 🙂 , printing transparently with a FFF printer is tricky, but can be done.

 

[GrantBaxter 0]

Thank you - where do I find the setting for infill lines at 90 degrees? I have looked and cannot find this setting 🙂 

[GrantBaxter 0]

On 10/14/2023 at 12:00 PM, Slashee_the_Cow said:

Basically, you want to use as little material as possible - the thinnest lines, and lowest number of walls you can get away with, as well as the least amount of infill which gives you enough strength.

 

But you also want to use the thickest layers you can get away with, because that reduces the number of seams.

 

Different infill patterns will also give you different results - the default is cubic, because it's really good for strength, but it also creates a bunch of enclosed areas inside the model. Something like lines should keep the inside a little clearer... except maybe where the lines are, at the expense of strength, but PETG tends to be fairly strong, so unless this needs to stand up to a lot of abuse, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

Just try and do what I do and test in small scale first. Unless you're rich enough that you can just buy a pallet of filament. If you are, can you sling some of that filament my way?

Thank you - I can see that I am going to be doing a lot of test prints

[GrantBaxter 0]

Thank you

[Slashee_the_Cow 493]

6 hours ago, GrantBaxter said:

Thank you - where do I find the setting for infill lines at 90 degrees? I have looked and cannot find this setting 🙂 

It's under Infill, just a couple down from pattern.

Without:

Just put 90 inside the square brackets.
With:

[GrantBaxter 0]

Thank you, I really appreciate the guidance