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Crazy print..


thereza

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Posted · Crazy print..
I'm impressed but I still can't figure out how you managed to get it without almost no jumps :p

Which version of Netfabb are you running? The latest, 4.9, has finally added what Skeinforge calls "comb" which makes the nozzle travel over already printed paths instead of jumping through air.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    @ robert: yes, it is 4.9 (for mac)

    @ Antiklesys: the screenshot is posted earlier.

    the only thing I could think of that affects 'comb' is the seam type....

    but it sure makes a difference compared to 4.8

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    Hi PeggyB,

    I made a couple of tests and so far looks awesome :)

    Thanks for your contribute :)

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    at the moment:

    1- netfabb wit standard PLA-standardf quality = a mess (first layer never works) :evil:

    2- NF with standard PLA - standard quality (temp 210, seam near origin) = some good prints some bad (always the first layer not stitched) :?

    3- like 2 but with 2 regions (region 1< 10 layer FAN OFF; region 2 >10 layer FAN ON)= quite good but nothing memorable :)

    4-Antiklesys profiles (read some post before this) ULTRA PLA-HIGH QUALITY with temp 190-200= awesome, slow but awesome :lol:

    5-PEggYb mod STANDARD PLA-STANDARD QUALITY with half layer outer and inner 1 = first layer doesnt stitch :(

    6-cura + printrun standard profile (E=925 for my UM, temp 200, layer 0.2, FAN OFF for the first 15 layers)= very good, I don't like the overall quality and maybbe the 'logic' below the filling inside is still not perfect, but works every single time I print. :D

    I liked very much the Antiklesys tips, following them I got a wonderful yoda. I still can't use netfabb for 'standard' or fast prints, everytime the first layer is a mess.

    a little OT: I change from 3m bluetape to simple white paper tape (the one used by painters and decorators here in italy). with a good rubb of alcohol it works well and costs 1/5.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    That the first layer isn't sticking isn't the fault of the slicer IMHO. Have you made sure that your bed is level and that the nozzle is positioned correctly (just barely touching the surface). Also, before you start a print has the nozzle dripped at all? If you allow it to drip a while before the print starts it'll take a bit of time before the nozzle fills up with plastic again. If you use "outline" with Skeinforge (cura) that will fill up the nozzle before the actual print starts. I believe NF has that feature in the latest version now as well but I haven't tried it yet.

    A quick and dirty way to get the first layer to stick properly is to manually adjust the height of the print bed when the print starts. Simply turn the lead screw of the bed to move it up or down until it "looks right". It's hard to say what "right" is here considering all the different parameters with layer heights, type of plastic etc, it's one of those things that you learn with experience.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    I think it IS a problem in NF. same object, sliced with NF standard = a mess, sliced with NF high quality= perfect, sliced with cura (standard parameters)= very good.

    the only one making a mess every time iis NF with standard profiles.

    And of course I levelled the bed and checked before printing everytime, and every time I change the tape on the bed (actually after every completed print).

    It seems that the first layer printed with cura is really well stictched on the bed, almost squashed. the same with NF standard profile is like a micro rope laying on the bed, maybe there is something in the software (NF) that make the nozzle a little bit too high for the first layer when producing gcode from the standard profiles.

    I have to check the gcode freom NF and cura and compare them.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    Have you calibrated the profile for your particular filament? It might be that the filament you're using is a bit thinner than the profile expects and is therefore laying down too little plastic.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    MAybe you're right but I can'tunderstand why NF works so erratic with different profiles. the filament is the same in every profile as far as I remember. Anyway I will check it tonight. thanks!

    I opened a support ticket at netfabb website too but still not answer.

    However cura and netfabb togheter let me print almost anything...

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    I have made a couple of tests with Netfabb and I think I've found out what's going wrong in the standard profile. I just lacked the time to troubleshoot it down entirely. It has to do with the settings which are configured in there. Long story short: Netfabb tries to print the first layer too fast. If you have the time to look at this I would try to reduce the printing speed a wee bit.

    Also if you apply PeggyB's settings to the high quality settings you'll get better prints, especially for the vase profiles.

    I also know what you mean with the white paper tape, but I found the blue one to be stronger and more performing.

    One thing I did was to add some kapton tape where the hot end usually homes, so that the tape there never breaks.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    I really like the snake speed for half layer outer and inner 1, yes it is slower, but it makes such a difference...

    and also, most of the time I give a little twist extra on the z-screw at the start, just a little notch to the left.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    UM2_vlag_USA___filaments.thumb.png.cc9cabf6d95eddd3ba4d8b7d2ae15bc2.png

    just look at the difference:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13505

     

    the strechlet1 (solid)

    orange: RepG026 original Ultimaker marlin2

    silver: Netfabb, standard hollow (only outer, the rest disabled, every half layer, fine, snake, seam near origin, contour count 2)

    because only the outer is active with snake it starts slow, and it attaches better to the tape.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    @PeggyB You are my new hero with your prints. Did you figure out how to configure the settings via trial and error or are they documented anywhere (in a useful way?)

    Also, how did you disable all layer except outer? And did you use the ultra PLA setting for the silver print? Has anyone had luck with Low quality prints looking good (as good as can be expected)

    I've just reconfigured everything to match your configs and will try again.

    Thanks

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    Posted · Crazy print..
    ... I give a little twist extra on the z-screw at the start, just a little notch to the left.

    Before starting the print the motore are locked in my UM. To twist the z screw I have to power off the um, twist and power on again. Is it correct or there is a way to move z screw without powering off.

    I can't use the movement panel because the movement is in large step and I don' t know to reduce steps. In printrun there is a very well made cursor movement with different steps (0.1, 1, 10 mm) , netfabb should have something similar and a reset coordinate button...

    I hope someone at netfabb is looking at this thread...

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    Italianmaxx I have tried to do a standard quality print yesterday by using PeggyB's settings.

    Everything worked perfectly. Let me know if you are still having some issues, maybe we can arrange a live chat one of these evenings as I'm Italian aswell :)

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    @italinanmaxx:

    it is not necessary to power the motors of, just 'force' it, the guys from Ultimaker do it also like this...

    @thereza: trial and error, like you lost your material settings...

    there are a lot of mistakes lying around and it is hard to know afterwards what belongs to what, and it is stupid to save settings that don't work.

    All the silver is printed with duplicates of the standard style (with the standard material).

    Go to the style tab and select 'manage build styles' at the bottom.

    pick one from the list of build styles, and it asks you to make a duplicate (and rename it)

    i didn't change anything in the first frame,

    select 'region definitions' and select the normal (there is only one in the first place)

    than you can select outer-inner1-filling-upskin-downskin-suppoert to make your changes in the profile

    to deselect: layer type: and set it to 'disabled'

    the graphic shows you what is going to happen: disable filling and the green crosshatch disappears...

    I hope your nozzle is OK now?

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    edit: PeggyB beat me to it :) But just to add something in case you're worried, this will not damage the motor at all, you're just overcoming the magnetic force that is holding the shaft in place.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    Hi

    may i ask what setting u use in the tab Raft/Support?

    because when i turn support on the support just comes out completely solid.. looking nearly the same as the print.

    RepG0025 5G setup and i am using skeinforge 35.

    thx for any help on this.

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    Hi this is about Netfabb, you should go in the ReplicatorG section perhaps :)

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    Posted · Crazy print..

    @PeggyB

    Thanks a million for your settings. I get really good results with these settings with standard quality. Thanks again.

    Timothy

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