A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?

[cloakfiend 995]

Doing my first time lapse patina on an old print! So excited! Shame I have to wait a few days to do it as the darn camera is too frickin loud at night with its clicks as the gopro is a nogo. I can hear the clicks at night and they keep me awake! So I cant do more than 14hr timelapse. Quality on that gopro thing sucks! Only good for filming accidents on the road!

My high tech setup. 1 Cannon eos d60 or 60d cant remember, 1 timer, 1 room light, 2 lamps with warm led bulbs 4 rubble bags to cover the windows and some masking tape. 1 old ipad 2 for the model to sit on, random black folder as background, Done. And the plated model of course.

 

[gr5 2,167]

I don't understand - is this patina some kind of paint that changes color over more than 14 hours?  I'm ignorant of painting techniques and whatever "patina" is.

 

[cloakfiend 995]

A good example of a patina is the green coating on the originally copper statue of liberty. Its the 'rust'. But it also protects the copper. You can accelerate it to film which is what i will try tomorrow. I just need to make space for about 14000 photos on my sd card. Gonna take a photo every 15seconds. My avatar is also a patina. It can be faked with paint, created with heat (obvs no good for plated pla!) And created with acids and chemicals. Spray and be amazed. Very easy to get great results even though you cant always predict what youll get.

[gr5 2,167]

Looking forward to seeing the video.  🙂

 

[cloakfiend 995]

Ok in progress. Probably out of focus now because I was rushing as it starts rusting immidiately and with the timervactivated i cant refocus. Will need to make some hidden placeholders to be able to pop it back in the right place easily... living and learning...

 

To tell the truth i dont think more time will change anything but i may add some acid on by brush to even the green but still debating. Will sand it after lightly to highlight the raised areas in copper.

 

Edited January 22, 2020 by cloakfiend

[cloakfiend 995]

Sadly it failed. Have no idea why. I need to hit up some time lapse forums. Instead of 14000 photos. I have 1 folder of 0001-2170 and another folder of 8999-9999 so upset and gutted. It would have looked so cool.

 

Either way ill speed up what I got but the magic happens at the start.

 

Last frame. I don't even have the first..... what a dumb system. I've been f-ing and blinding for the past 30 mins.

 

So annoyed. Oh well. Bugger....

 

Hold up... its weird... I actually think I have it somehow? But 1 photo every 15 secs is 4 per min and thats 240 per hour......for 15 hours....thats 3600, I'm such an idiot. I some how calculated 900 photos per minute and expected to find like 14000? Whatever it worked!!!! Yay! Don't think the last few hours added anything but I guess ill find out.

 

First photo, after acid (re-positioned and de-focused a touch as predicted) photo, and last photo. Video will be tomorrow. I'm working at 5am tomoz!

 

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2020 by cloakfiend

[cloakfiend 995]

Doing another one now but every 4 seconds and added some salty ammonia in a few spots hopefully bringing some blue about adding to the green. Also shot in video mode as the aperture in photo mode isnt consistent and has that stopmotiony flicker that annoys me. 

 

Also the shutter is so violent that it shakes the camera creating a tiny wobble on each frame.

 

Annoying but a touch of stabilisation should sort that.....

 

getting loads of crashes trying to stabilise 5K footage on my crappy macbook air!.....oh dear. long crash logs

 

almost there!! did a few dogs ones as well 4 secs between, still green. Gonna try a few other things in the mean time....this skull anim should be done by tomorrow! only the first 5 seconds is interesting so ill do a bunch of close ups after the 14hrs time lapse reveal. I now know 4 hrs time-lapse is plenty. 

 

Edited January 25, 2020 by cloakfiend

[cloakfiend 995]

Here you go, like I said not much happed after the 1st hour, but I left it in anyways.... some close ups as well. 4 seconds of action spread out over 1.30 lol.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heCkyfcGW8c

 

Not sure how to embed a video here anymore, is the option gone?

Edited January 26, 2020 by cloakfiend

[dfrez 21]

Drinking my coffee at work on a Friday afternoon (am i doing this thread right?). Looking forward to some more printing this weekend. 

 

Has anyone used this glue stick before: 

 

I recently got a stick because I couldn't find the "normal" strength one. I'm not sure what extra or different this one has in it versus the typical PVA glue. But it seems to work just as well if not better, prints stick well and seem to pop off more easily than normal PVA. 

[SandervG 1,521]

Responding while I'm drinking my Monday morning coffee; (I think we're doing this right!) if you are looking for a new glue I would recommend to look at Magigoo;  they have pretty good glues for various filaments

[Smithy 1,144]

I can second that, much easier to apply and to handle as a normal glue stick.

[dfrez 21]

I just looked it up. I didn’t even know they had anything like that. Normal glue stick has worked well enough for me I didn’t even consider using anything else. 
 

It seems kinda pricey compared to a glue stick, but it says it lasts for over 100 prints. I’m not sure if they mean per application or for the whole tube, because that would make a huge difference, lol. 

Edited February 3, 2020 by dfrez

[SandervG 1,521]

Unless you live in a dust-free, sterile environment I don't think I would recommend not preparing your buildplate in any way for such a period of time. If you just print PLA, a regular glue stick may suffice, but if you are using more engineering materials with more challenging properties Magigoo would be a good investment. 

 

BTW; I've switched now to water.

[cloakfiend 995]

I may try some of this magigloo looks interesting! 

As for low level cf pla defo salt method but only at 210 for colorfabb and above othewise it doesnt always stay down. But its a dream to remove after. 

... i have printed loads (50+)on my gluestick which is prittstik power. But it only a matter of time before you ruin it or it starts fading and re-application is required!

Edited February 3, 2020 by cloakfiend

[Smithy 1,144]

In terms of adhesion (PLA) there is no noticeable difference for me between glue stick and magigoo, but after the bed cooled down, it is easier to take off the object with magigoo - it is loose.

 

But for me it is easier to apply ( I am lazy) so for the glue method I have to apply the glue and then distribute it with a wet papertowel to have a thin layer. With Magigoo I just apply the stick and that's it.

 

The stick is available in 2 sizes, but the smaller one lasts for me nearly forever.

 

But there are more versions available, for nylon, pc, pp and so on and they are all working great. 

[cloakfiend 995]

Ah thats great to know thanks! i though that might be the case, if i go even two layers on my glue. I fear for my prints. Too hard to remove. I even chipped my um2 glass trying to remove a large print. I never did do the the whole rubbing glue around with water. I found the glue it shipped with was just too weak, i did try but ut failed on my second print. My prittstick has never failed. But it has made me destroy a couple of prints while i figured out ways to remove them in the process. Will give this magigoo a goo. Any recomendation? For a strong pla one or are they all pretty good?

[Smithy 1,144]

For PLA use the normal one the Magigoo Original (red bottle)

All other Magigoos are special mixtures for dedicated materials like PC, PA, PP, PPGF, Flex, and a HT version for Peek.

[cloakfiend 995]

Great to know! Thanks!

[dfrez 21]

7 hours ago, SandervG said:

Unless you live in a dust-free, sterile environment I don't think I would recommend not preparing your buildplate in any way for such a period of time. If you just print PLA, a regular glue stick may suffice, but if you are using more engineering materials with more challenging properties Magigoo would be a good investment. 

 

BTW; I've switched now to water.

After reading more closely: "Print and print and print some more. With one Magigoo 50ml pen, you’ll be able to print over a 100 prints. Apply every time for sure adhesion, do not risk a failed print."

 

I typically clean my buildplate after a few prints just for peace of mind. 

 

Could you elaborate on how you use just water for adhesion? 

 

 

5 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

Ah thats great to know thanks! i though that might be the case, if i go even two layers on my glue. I fear for my prints. Too hard to remove. I even chipped my um2 glass trying to remove a large print. I never did do the the whole rubbing glue around with water. I found the glue it shipped with was just too weak, i did try but ut failed on my second print. My prittstick has never failed. But it has made me destroy a couple of prints while i figured out ways to remove them in the process. Will give this magigoo a goo. Any recomendation? For a strong pla one or are they all pretty good?

 

That's pretty crazy. I've only managed to chip a build plate when I was printing ABS without glue. (I've since learned my lesson, I know it was stupid). 

 

Regarding the Prittstick, judging by the product description it sounds a lot like the Elmers "sticks to more surfaces" glue I was talking about. I would try the Pritt but it sounds like it might be tougher to get than Elmers, since it's a UK product. 

 

I also am intrigued and will give this magigoo a try, lol. 

[cloakfiend 995]

9 hours ago, dfrez said:

 I would try the Pritt but it sounds like it might be tougher to get than Elmers, since it's a UK product.

Its the grey power version that even i cant  always find. Its identical to elmers in application but much stronger and more scratch resistant on the buildplate hence printing more on it without re application. 

 

However.... in all seriousness i would always apply a new coat to an important print regardless. You never know if a spot has worn through and it could just happen by chance to be in a critical spot where your model sits or some support is required. 

 

But for casual prints and tests and gifts i just keep printing and printing. Sometimes ill prime it with one print as the first print sticks a bit too much. Then ill do my main one to avoid issues gettng it off. I generally stick a scalpel blade under it to let in air to get it off. Salt is much better but im told its not good for tall stuff? I still need to test this out because i use it to print on fabric.

[Smithy 1,144]

11 hours ago, dfrez said:

Could you elaborate on how you use just water for adhesion? 

I guess @SandervG meant that he switched from coffee to water 🙂 Both not adhesion related 🙂 

[SandervG 1,521]

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

I guess @SandervG meant that he switched from coffee to water 🙂 Both not adhesion related 🙂 

 

I was, that's what you get for trying to be funny.. 

[dfrez 21]

5 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

Its the grey power version that even i cant  always find. Its identical to elmers in application but much stronger and more scratch resistant on the buildplate hence printing more on it without re application. 

 

However.... in all seriousness i would always apply a new coat to an important print regardless. You never know if a spot has worn through and it could just happen by chance to be in a critical spot where your model sits or some support is required. 

 

But for casual prints and tests and gifts i just keep printing and printing. Sometimes ill prime it with one print as the first print sticks a bit too much. Then ill do my main one to avoid issues gettng it off. I generally stick a scalpel blade under it to let in air to get it off. Salt is much better but im told its not good for tall stuff? I still need to test this out because i use it to print on fabric.

 

Oh, for sure. I agree. If it's an important print, I'll wash the plate with soap and water and then reapply for a fresh coat of glue just for peace of mind.

 

2 hours ago, SandervG said:

 

I was, that's what you get for trying to be funny.. 

 

[dfrez 21]

Drinking my morning coffee, TGIF. 

 

So I tried that Magigoo on an ABS print the other day. Worked really well, too well almost. Even with the bed completely cool it was impossible to remove by hand or by trying to work a spatula underneath. 

 

Ended up putting the part and buildplate in the freezer for a few minutes and was able to remove it after that. 

 

I think I'll save this stuff for more difficult materials. lol.

Edited February 7, 2020 by dfrez

[Farnsworth9 1]

Hey how is everyone today?