UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
There are several possible causes but the most common is a bad connection in the temperature wire at the top of the print head.
On the print head of the UM Original there is a small circuit board. One of the wires coming off that board goes up along the bowden cable back to the PCB. The wire there at the top of the head is usually the problem. Try pushing the head around to the 4 corners while power is off to the nozzle and see if the temperature jumps suddenly. Also try pushing and pulling a bit on that wire. It's supposed to go through the black delrin (delrin is a kind of plastic) "F" shaped strain relief. Does it? There is an extra, identical cable there for the second extruder that you probably don't use. You can swap to that wire and then also swap underneath so that you are using the new cabling. And make sure the cable goes through the strain relief this time.
There are other possible causes. The second most common is having the thermocouple wires that go from the heater block to that circuit board being too close to the fan wiring. When the fan is on - especially when it is not at 0% or 100% the wires can act like an antenna and broadcast noise into the thermocouple wire which is sensitive. The fix is to keep the wires at least 10mm apart until they get to that chip on top of the print head.
edit: I mean keep thermo wires 10mm from fan wires.
Link to post
Share on other sites
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
A year after the merger of Ultimaker and MakerBotQQ, we have unlocked the ability for users of our Method series printers to slice files using UltiMaker Cura. As of this release, users can find profiles for our Method and Method XL printers, as well as material profiles for ABS-R, ABS-CF, and RapidRinse. Meaning it’s now possible to use either Cura or the existing cloud-slicing software CloudPrint when printing with these printers or materials
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,094
There are several possible causes but the most common is a bad connection in the temperature wire at the top of the print head.
On the print head of the UM Original there is a small circuit board. One of the wires coming off that board goes up along the bowden cable back to the PCB. The wire there at the top of the head is usually the problem. Try pushing the head around to the 4 corners while power is off to the nozzle and see if the temperature jumps suddenly. Also try pushing and pulling a bit on that wire. It's supposed to go through the black delrin (delrin is a kind of plastic) "F" shaped strain relief. Does it? There is an extra, identical cable there for the second extruder that you probably don't use. You can swap to that wire and then also swap underneath so that you are using the new cabling. And make sure the cable goes through the strain relief this time.
There are other possible causes. The second most common is having the thermocouple wires that go from the heater block to that circuit board being too close to the fan wiring. When the fan is on - especially when it is not at 0% or 100% the wires can act like an antenna and broadcast noise into the thermocouple wire which is sensitive. The fix is to keep the wires at least 10mm apart until they get to that chip on top of the print head.
edit: I mean keep thermo wires 10mm from fan wires.
Link to post
Share on other sites