Jump to content

Cura filling in small design gap


acray

Recommended Posts

Posted · Cura filling in small design gap

I am having an issue where Cura assumes a small gap needs to be filled but it is intetional.    
 

Is there a way to turn this off?  

Screenshot 2024-07-01 at 4.51.09 PM.png

Screenshot 2024-07-01 at 4.51.17 PM.png

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Cura filling in small design gap

    Make sure Mesh Fixes > Maximum Resolution is low enough (I usually have it at 0.1, but you could try 0.01 if it helps).

     

    If that doesn't help, then it would be best if you could post the Cura project file (.3mf, get it set up then go to File > Save Project) here so us boffins can open it up and play with numbers until we figure out what works.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Cura filling in small design gap

    Thank you,  I found another way to get around this issue by clicking "Print Thin Walls" in the wall section.   It helped with creating gap mentioned in my original post. See attached snapshot of the slicing with the thin walls on.

     

    However,  the toggle/switch part of the PIP model is still stuck together but not due to not creating a gap issue mentioned here originally. I seem to be getting extra material or width and loosing the design gaps.   

     

    I have attached the 3MF model as well. 

     

    Screenshot 2024-07-02 at 10.50.58 AM.png

    PIP-Fidget-Switch_Loose.3mf

    Edited by acray
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Cura filling in small design gap

    It would help more if you could post the Cura project file (get it set up like you have, then go to File > Save Project) since that will contain information about your printer and your current quality settings.

     

    Print Thin Walls might fix it in the preview, but not necessarily in the print - it just makes it print parts it would normally consider too thin at the Walls > Minimum Thin Wall Line Width setting, and like a bunch of other settings, the results aren't always accurately reflected in the preview. Looking at your screenshot, you have it set to 0.34mm - barely any narrower than the default line width (which I don't know if you're using) of 0.4mm.

     

    The general guideline for line width is 60-150% of your nozzle diameter. If you're using a fairly normal 0.4mm nozzle, that means you should be able to print walls 0.24mm, so go ahead and change Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width and Walls > Minimum Thin Wall Line Width to that.

     

    Lowering the maximum resolution is still a good idea, as the model appears to have incredibly tight tolerances (as most PiP models do, which is why attempting to print them often ends in swearing). I managed to get this starting with a stock standard quality profile and just lowering the maximum resolution to 0.1 and setting the minimum wall line width to 0.24mm. I didn't turn on Print Thin Walls because lowering the minimum wall line width fixed that:

    image.thumb.png.530be3acc1dff9d2d6fb53e5a3cb4b7d.png

    (Which is why it would really help to see your project so I can see your settings)

     

    Something else that could help is Walls > Horizontal Expansion - actually we want a bit of contraction, so set this to a negative number. It makes everything print a little fatter (or thinner) while keeping the centre in the same place, so a negative number will increase the gap between parts. Here it is set to -0.05mm:

    image.thumb.png.ccba2ebd27d2f4efed5f6532ef5342d2.png

    It's also a great way to deal with potential overextrusion from your printer, but you don't want to change it too much or the proportions get a bit too off (you could try maybe -0.1mm though, and have a look at narrower if you want, but I wouldn't recommend printing it with the value set too low).

     

    Just another couple of notes:

    • "Print in place" models often don't, just due to the tolerances involved and the capabilities of some printers. If they come with any instructions, make sure to follow them.
    • I'm guessing the designer had this in mind, but I am curious about how well it'd work with PLA - if you're trying to use PLA, anyway - it obviously relies on the bits in the middle bending a bit when you move the switch, but PLA tends to be fairly brittle and won't bend much before it breaks. I would print it in PETG myself, since that does maintain some flexibility.
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.8 beta released
        Another Cura release has arrived and in this 5.8 beta release, the focus is on improving Z seams, as well as completing support for the full Method series of printers by introducing a profile for the UltiMaker Method.
          • Like
        • 1 reply
      • Introducing the UltiMaker Factor 4
        We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 3 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...