Build area in software and hardware not matching/aligned

[KNERD 0]

 

I am trying to print the following:

 

As you can see, the model is as far back as possible in Cura. I moved it back as the print nozzle was going over the front edge to lay down filament. I moved it back to the line, and if I try to go back further, Cura will refuse to slice.

 

 

 

 

Here is another image of how far off the alignment is from the back side

 

 

What can be done to align it so it is more accurate?

 

Thanks!

 

Edited September 4 by KNERD

[GregValiant 1,342]

Cura is accurate to 3 decimal places.  If the numbers in the Cura machine settings are off or if they don't actually match the printer, then the accuracy never comes into play.

Use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here.  Also add the physical size of the build surface of the printer (edge to edge left-right and front-back).  You didn't mention what printer we're talking about.  That would be good to know.

 

Creality definitions usually provide a 7.5mm safety margin around the periphery of the build plate.  Mine measures 235 x 235 but the definition file places it at 220 x 220 useable area.

The 0,0,0 used to locate the print on the printer bed is the "Home Offset" position so that needs to be defined correctly in the printer.

[KNERD 0]

It's the Ender 3 Pro and using the Creality auto level.  I saw a setting for "origin at center" since there is where the origin is when using the auto level device. It made the print even worse.

 

I have attached the file requested.

 

Thanks for responding

 

 

 

Electronics Box.3mf

 

 

[GregValiant 1,342]

There are a couple of rectangular printers (Flash Forge printers for example) that are "Origin at Center" machines, and pretty much all delta printers have their origin at the center.  Your printer has the origin at the left front corner so uncheck the "Origin at Center" box.

 

The 7.5mm safety margin is (in my opinion) overkill.  You can make it narrower and increase your useable area to 230 x 230.

 

From the printer LCD:

1. Auto-home the printer.
2. Raise the Z by 2mm.
3. Move the X until it is close to 2.5mm in from the left edge of the build plate.
4. Move the Y until it is close to 2.5mm in from the front edge of the build plate.
5. Drop the Z back to 0.00.
6. Find the LCD command for "Set Home Offset" and click on it.
7. Find the LCD "Save Settings" command and click on it.

Back in Cura's Machine settings, set the X(width) and Y(depth) both to 230.

On the LCD, raise the Z again and then send the X and Y to 230.  Your nozzle should be 2.5mm in from the right rear corner.

 

There are two build plates.  There is the Cura "virtual" build plate, and the printer "real" build plate.  Neither Cura, nor your printer, knows where the real build plate actually is in space.

The Z location is part of the Home Offset location but it's actually handled by your leveling system.  It's the Home Offset location that determines where X0 Y0 is in space and that is where the printer is going to relate the Gcode origin to.  Once the machine settings in Cura match your actual build plate it will work as expected.

 

BTW my printer is an older Ender 3 Pro.  Looking at your settings:

• 220 is pretty hot for PLA.  200 to 210 would be closer to the norm.
• The Initial Layer Height is usually greater than 100% to insure good squish on the first layer.  I run it at 105% but it is affected by leveling so maybe 95% works well for you.
• The maximum "Support Overhang Angle" is a function of the layer height and line width.  Figure 63° as the max.  55 to 60 works well for most situations.  At 80° you won't generate supports for some areas that need it.
• In "Experimental" settings is "Group Outer Walls".  I suggest you disable that as it can cause a lot of travel on large models.
• If you haven't done so, go to the Cura MarketPlace and load the "Printer Settings", "Material Settings", and "Mesh Tools" plugins.  Aldo Hoeben is a big time contributor to Cura and there are a couple more of his that I like;  "Sidebar GUI" and "Tabbed Settings".  If you don't like them you can always uninstall them.

 

Good luck with it!

 

 

Edited September 5 by GregValiant

[KNERD 0]

Couple of issues. The Creality BLTouch probe is basically put in the center when you do Auto Home, and not the nozzle. In addition, after auto homing the nozzle is raised about 10mm above the build plate.

 

With that, I don't think I need to raise the Z by 2mm. Also, since the BlTouch probe is being put at near center, I guess the nozzle is still considered for Home Offset?

 

I am using a proprietary PLA+, and if I use your suggested temperatures, it starts stringing.

 

Thanks again!

 

Update: The Home offset also included the current height of the Z axis, so it was printing in mid-air. Have to go back and do the Z offset wizard again.

Edited September 5 by KNERD

[GregValiant 1,342]

It sounds like the firmware is set up to run the Leveling command after an Auto-Home.  Auto-Home moves each axis until it contacts it's limit switch in order to tell the printer it is at zero on that axis.  I think you'll need to work from the midpoint out on this.

 

Put a piece of masking take in the approximate middle of the build plate.  Use a ruler and measure the build plate and put an "X" on the tape at the midpoint X and Y of the build plate.

After Auto-Homing, move the nozzle (up first - don't want to drag) so it is directly above the "X" on the tape.  What does the LCD say the X and Y are?

Do a little math and move the nozzle in the X 115mm to the left.

Move the Y 115mm toward the front.

Move the Z to "0"

On the LCD select "Set Home Offsets".

In Cura set the build plate size to 230 x 230.

 

If for some reason the printer won't move 115 from the midpoint on either axis, then move 110 and set the build plate in Cura to 220 x 220.

[KNERD 0]

I think I am just going to pull the BLTouch off. I have had endless issues with it. I really see no need for it since I originally had the stock Ender springs, and those did keep moving. I now have the upgraded springs, and a glass bed, thus no real reason to keep using something with has been giving me issues all the time.

 

Thanks for the help!

Edited September 5 by KNERD

[KNERD 0]

Strangeness continues

 

I have removed the BLTouch, replaced the firmware without BLTouch support, and releveled bed for the nozzle.

 

Now, not only does print still go over the front of the built plate, but it seems the printer is trying to go beyond the X axis starting point on the left. It cannot do it, so it just prints along the farthest edge it can reach.

 

I installed the suggested plugins, but could not find the one called "Printer Settings."

 

 

Electronics Box.3mf

Edited September 6 by KNERD

[GregValiant 1,342]

This is from your project file.  You can see that the Cura origin is at the midpoint of the build plate.  If you put the model there then half the print will be in the negative X and negative Y quadrants.  But your actual printer has the origin at the left front corner so the "negative" X and Y quadrants aren't on the build surface.

 

This is my Ender 3 Pro and "Origin at Center" is NOT checked.  This is how it is supposed to be.  The model will be in the positive X and positive Y quadrant.

Click on "Settings" and then "Printer".  At the bottom will be "Manage Printers".  Go to the Machine Settings and de-select "Origin at Center".

[KNERD 0]

Thank you kindly for the assistance. I am not sure how I missed that check mark. I thought I had unchecked it. 

 

For the print, it seems to be going well now, but I see the front of the print is still going way forward, but at least it is not going over the edge now

Edited September 6 by KNERD

[GregValiant 1,342]

When you are starting out, everything is confusing.  You've got a 4 axes robot that squirts hot plastic and it needs one language (which is fortunately pretty simple).

To get that language to the printer - robot you are required to learn a complicated piece of slicing software that uses (at least) one other language.

The models are built in a third complicated piece of software. 

 

Some settings just make sense when you look at them.  Unfortunately, it isn't "common" sense, but some other kind that is closer to "non" sense.

 

Your printer probably has one layer cooling fan and in the "Machine Settings / Extruder tab" is a box for "Cooling Fan Number".  Many people assume that what that means is "number of cooling fans".  It does not.  It means "what port is the layer cooling fan plugged into on the motherboard" which is almost universally "Fan0".  Now, back in the Gcode, it will be "P0" to indicate Fan #1.  I think that makes my point nicely.

 

So don't feel bad about the Origin at Center thing.  You weren't the first and you won't be the last.  Now that it is straightened out there should be no negative locations in the gcode and so the printer won't be trying to go never-never-land anymore.

[Slashee_the_Cow 410]

11 hours ago, GregValiant said:

Some settings just make sense when you look at them.  Unfortunately, it isn't "common" sense, but some other kind that is closer to "non" sense.

 

Your printer probably has one layer cooling fan and in the "Machine Settings / Extruder tab" is a box for "Cooling Fan Number".  Many people assume that what that means is "number of cooling fans".  It does not.  It means "what port is the layer cooling fan plugged into on the motherboard" which is almost universally "Fan0".  Now, back in the Gcode, it will be "P0" to indicate Fan #1.  I think that makes my point nicely.

My vote for this goes to a much more common setting: "Print Speed".

It prints in the infill at that and everything else at half that.

Should do the infill at double the speed you put in and everything else at that speed, because if someone puts in 60mm/s for print speed they're probably not expecting all their walls to be done at 30mm/s.