Support on small items/features CURA 5.3, just updated to 5.8

[Airspeed 0]

I have tried printing 1/72 scale people, ie about 24mm high.

I used a 0.2mm nozzle, layers 0.01, 0.03, 0.06mm, density anything between 20% and 100%, Gyroid pattern

Support set to 5% with concentric pattern.

I've tried print speeds from 25 to 100mms.

I've tried glue and no bed heat, and 50 degrees bed heat without glue.

When I do manage a print that does not break up after 4mm of height, the support is still very hard or impossible to separate from the item.

Any guidance on settings would be truly appreciated.

Thanks, Mike

Edited September 15 by Airspeed

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

• What printer do you have?
• What material are you using?
• What line width are you using?
• If could post a Cura project file (.3mf, get it set up then go to File > Save Project) that would help.
• The general guidelines say there's no lower bound for layer height depending on nozzle diameter (just that your layer height should never be above your nozzle diameter) but shorter layers are harder to print (your printer needs to have very precise control of its extruder motor - so a lot of less expensive ones just can't do it properly) and also don't adhere as well (there's just less material to adhere) and are usually more likely to delaminate.
• Honestly, you probably wouldn't notice much of a difference between 0.06mm and 0.1mm but there's ⅔ more material involved which would make a difference in how well the printing process would go.
• 50° bed temperature is not really enough for... any material that I know of. PLA I usually do at 60° and it only goes up from there. Most spools of filament have labels on the side with recommended printing settings (filament temperature, bed temperature and speed).
• I have a PEI bed and don't print any materials with poor adhesion, so I don't know much about glues and such, but I see people around here recommending something called Magigoo or stuff like that. Whatever you use any sort of glue, make sure to clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol when the print is finished.
• How easy it is to remove support without breaking the model can vary a lot with the model. It's possible the support has a bigger attachment surface to an extremity bigger than that part is attached to the body.
  • Try using wire snippers (like you should be using whenever you unload your printer to cut the filament back to a nice clean diagonal end so it loads properly next time) to remove small bits of support without having to apply too much to the model.
  • Also try changing Support > Support Structure to Tree and disable Support > Enable Support Interface which should just make tree branches connect the model to support it and can be cut off with the aforementioned wire snippers fairly easily.
• Speed is dependent upon material (different materials print better at different speeds, i.e. TPU you need to print really slowly), for PLA the average is about 60mm/s but I sometimes slow it down to a third of that if I'm doing something intricate (Slashee's Golden Rule: Slow print > bad print).
• I demand equal representation with a 1/72 scale cow 🐄

[Airspeed 0]

Thanks for your patience and advice , Slashee.

I'm using a Creality Ender3 v3 with Sprite extruder. The models are all in PLA, and I do read the advisory labels.

I will have another go with trees (forgot to mention that I'd used them too) and I'll thicken the layers, crank up the heat and speed.

Line width? I've seen that setting, and assumed that it needs to be at least as wide as the nozzle. I think that I set it to nozzle width only, to try and maximise detail; maybe I'm kidding myself?

I'll see how it turns out and send photos. I don't know if I can do a 1/72 cow, as the little horses I tried for my Grandson's 28mm wargaming mainly lost their legs, and I wouldn't want to see a maimed cow.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Mike

Edited September 16 by Airspeed
Omission

[Airspeed 0]

Here's the project file.

 

Photo of print failure also attached.

I don't know what's in the project file, so hopefully it's enough.

Cheers, Mike

 

124freporter.3mf

Edited September 16 by Airspeed
duplicated attachment, did not see it had started.

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

2 hours ago, Airspeed said:

I'm using a Creality Ender3 v3 with Sprite extruder.

I blame Creality for having to ask the following clarification question: Is it just the "Ender-3 V3" (or "Ender-3 V3 Plus") which have significant differences to the "Ender-3 V3 SE" or the "Ender-3 V3 KE"?

 

Either way, you're using the wrong printer definition: you're using the profile for the original Ender-3/Ender-3 V2. The entire V3 series needs a fairly different profile due to the upgrades like the Sprite extruder as stock, not to mention that they're capable of much higher speeds (which isn't a good thing unless you're taking part in the pissing contest between Chinese printer manufacturers about who can print a Benchy the fastest).

 

I don't think the E3V3 has its own profile in Cura yet - if you use the profile for the E3V3KE that should work fine.

 

2 hours ago, Airspeed said:

Line width? I've seen that setting, and assumed that it needs to be at least as wide as the nozzle. I think that I set it to nozzle width only, to try and maximise detail; maybe I'm kidding myself?

I don't think you're kidding yourself, just inexperienced 🙂. The general guideline is that line width should be 60-150% of your nozzle diameter (so for a 0.2mm nozzle, that's 0.12mm-0.3mm).

What's pretty common is to set Quality > Line Width to your nozzle width, but Walls > Minimum Wall Line Width to the lower limit (in your case 0.12mm). That way it'll use the normal width lines everywhere it can and only try the thin walls (which are harder to print) is small bits that need more detail.

I usually run a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.4mm line width and minimum width of 0.24mm.

When you're getting to low values like 0.12mm, it's sort of like layer height, in that it requires more accurate extruder control from the printer... fortunately a direct drive extruder like the Sprite is miles ahead of the plastic crap that came with the E3/E3V2.

 

2 hours ago, Airspeed said:

I will have another go with trees (forgot to mention that I'd used them too) and I'll thicken the layers, crank up the heat and speed.

Don't crank up the speed too much, especially for detailed stuff. If I was trying that model (and I wouldn't... I'll get to that in a bit) I'd run it at 20mm/s. When it comes to temps, regular PLA I usually print 200°, but most of the stuff I print is "PLA+" whose makeup generally depends on brand, I print it at 210°. For "silky" PLA you usually need to increase the temperature by about 5° (so 205° or 215° for me). The bed I have at 60° (and 65° for the initial layer to aid adhesion).

 

You shouldn't need to use anything to aid in adhesion to the bed on your printer, especially with PLA, I'm pretty sure all the E3V3 series comes with PEI beds.

 

Now for the part that makes Slashee sad 😞 to be blunt:

Where you're kidding yourself is a model like this at this scale on any consumer level 3D printer, printing at a scale this small requires models specially designed for it.

Let's take a look at the points on those (highly uncomfortable) heels:

Just over 0.14mm at its widest point. Even if you lower the minimum wall line width and turn on Walls > Print Thin Walls (which makes it print anything smaller than the minimum line width at the minimum width) it would just try and drop a tiny dot which is never going to stick by itself.

As for the rest of the shoe, let's look at it in Cura's prepare view:

The light blue bit is the part which is actually contacting the build plate. It amounts to about 0.5mm² by my calculations. Combined with the point, with both shoes, your area on the build plate is roughly 1.03mm², total. This is nowhere near enough for anything to adhere, even if it was in one spot.

 

How well are other things going to stay together? I'll be generous and measure the widest point of the legs:

Your legs have a diameter of about 1.55mm. That is narrower than the filament you're feeding into your printer. There's no way it can stand up to even a tiny bit of pressure.

 

Now for the arm holding onto the mic:

*quick maths* So the fattest part of the arm has a cross section of about 0.87mm². That's just not enough internal surface area, even at 100% infill, to be strong enough to resist any force further down the arm (like trying to remove support from the hand).

 

This is the sort of thing where I usually love to go on providing more examples, but I think I've made my point.

If you're trying to print something the size of one of my big toehoofnails it can't just be a normal model scaled down. You basically have to go for something much more along the lines of an SD (super deformed) look.

 

If this makes you wonder how wargame manufacturers successfully make models this small: they sculpt one, create a cast of it and use that for injection moulding (usually with ABS, which you can print with but you have the problem of the model being too weak as it goes, rather than have the whole thing shaped and solidify at once with injection moulding, and the results are nowhere near as good, plus it's a massive pain to work with and the fumes are poisonous).

[Airspeed 0]

Obviously there was a heap of info in that file.

I'll see if I can find that profile which you mentioned, thanks.

Since writing last, I removed the 0.2mm nozzle and put the supplied 0.4 back in. The threaded section on the 0.4 is 2 or 3 times as long as the 0.2. I had noticed this when changing, but thought that the melted material would take up the room and work OK. I think I was wrong, because when I did an "extrude", I was amazed to find a wad of the previous aluminium-coloured PLA in the centre of the beige dumped on the table (see photo) It sat in the extruder for days. I'll ask Creality about suitable replacement nozzles.

I also checked the specs of the Ender, and found that the Z accuracy was 0.1mm. So much for me trying 0.03, 0.01 etc.

The good news is that 0.4 Nozzle, 215 C, Speed 100mms and the tree support has produced some satisfactory detail; see photo.

I'll try the female reporter again and see how she performs.

I take your point that I'm expecting a lot from a cheap machine, but us old pensioners have to save the bikkies.

I can't thank you enough for steering me on track.

 

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

Since writing last, I removed the 0.2mm nozzle and put the supplied 0.4 back in. The threaded section on the 0.4 is 2 or 3 times as long as the 0.2. I had noticed this when changing, but thought that the melted material would take up the room and work OK. I think I was wrong, because when I did an "extrude", I was amazed to find a wad of the previous aluminium-coloured PLA in the centre of the beige dumped on the table (see photo) It sat in the extruder for days. I'll ask Creality about suitable replacement nozzles.

Creality printers just take standard (as in you'll find them anywhere) MK8 nozzles (which I think were first introduced on the MakerBot Replicator 2). The threaded section should always be the same length, so if your 0.2mm nozzle had too short a thread that could definitely cause you grief (since the extrusion is designed with the volume of the hot end, including available room in the nozzle in mind).

 

My E3V3SE came with a tool for cleaning out the extruder and hot end... basically a long metal rod with a handle at one end. The idea is that you heat up your hot end, unload the filament, and stick that straight down the extruder's throat down to the bottom of the hot end, hopefully clearing out anything that's stuck in there. Although it looks like yours did a decent job of that by itself.

 

You should probably take a look at your heat block (remove the silicon boot so you can see the metal) and make sure that it's clean - there haven't been any leakages at the top or bottom. I've had a printer die because of filament leaking thoroughly onto the heat block (once it got to the thermistor, when it set it broke the cables and the printer will refuse to do anything if it can't detect the hot end temperature).

 

If there's any dried filament on there, you should try cleaning it off. @GregValiant probably knows how to do it "properly" but in my case it's heat resistant gloves (🐄 leather 😞 rigger's gloves 😕) and a soft cloth or paper towel. Get the hot end to around 190°, give the plastic a minute to warm up and see if you can wipe it off - if it puts up a bit of a fight I have some plastic paint scrapers but you can use a metal one if you're careful (you don't want to scratch the metal). In your case I'd probably take the nozzle out to see if there's anything around there stopping the nozzle going the full way in. Once you clean it off, put the nozzle back in, let it cool down, put the silicone boot back on and put the cover back on the print head.

 

Oh, and gratuitous macro photo: it is also possible for the nozzle itself to get dirty. I was wondering why I was getting a green tint on things...

(You can just wipe it off like you can the heat block, just be careful, it's %#*@ing hot.)

 

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

I also checked the specs of the Ender, and found that the Z accuracy was 0.1mm. So much for me trying 0.03, 0.01 etc.

I think the specs specify a minimum layer height of 0.1mm, but if there's only one listing for accuracy, it's usually for the X and Y axes. The Z axis motor has much finer control. For my E3V3SE, out of the box, the steps per mm (one step being the smallest movement it can make) is 80 for the X and Y motors... and 400 for the Z. So I would heed a minimum layer height of 0.1mm but you definitely don't need to change it in 0.1mm increments. Just remember that your layer height should never be higher than your nozzle diameter.

 

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

The good news is that 0.4 Nozzle, 215 C, Speed 100mms and the tree support has produced some satisfactory detail

Slow down. At least try it at something calm like 25mm/s. If it doesn't make a difference, then I still probably wouldn't take it back up above 60mm/s. Unless somehow you're getting better results at 100mm/s. Then do that.

 

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

I take your point that I'm expecting a lot from a cheap machine, but us old pensioners have to save the bikkies.

I know the feeling - not trying to say you're cheap or anything, just to temper your expectations. Why do you think I have the (confusingly named) lowest end of the Ender-3 (Creality's lowest line) V3 series, the Ender-3 V3 SE?

(It's because I actually bought an Ender-3 V2 Neo before the E3V3SE came out but when that died I got a refund and bought the E3V3SE, cost a little more than a replacement E3V2 Neo but definitely worth it).

[Airspeed 0]

Obviously there was a heap of info in that file.

I'll see if I can find that profile which you mentioned, thanks.

Since writing last, I removed the 0.2mm nozzle and put the supplied 0.4 back in. The threaded section on the 0.4 is 2 or 3 times as long as the 0.2. I had noticed this when changing, but thought that the melted material would take up the room and work OK. I think I was wrong, because when I did an "extrude", I was amazed to find a wad of the previous aluminium-coloured PLA in the centre of the beige dumped on the table (see photo)

I also checked the specs of the Ender, and found that the Z accuracy was 0.1mm. So much for me trying 0.03, 0.01 etc.

The good news is that 0.4 Nozzle, 215 C, Speed 100mms and the tree support has produced some satisfactory detail; see photo.

I'll try the female reporter again and see how that performs.

I can't thank you enough for steering me on track.

 

[Airspeed 0]

Hi Slashee,

Could not find that E3V3KE profile, refer screenshot of available units.

The Sprite nozzle is definitely much longer than any in my bags of spare nozzles, which are 4.5mm from shoulder to end of thread. I bought heaps for my original 3 V2, as I did some carbon fibre printing, which shortened their lives considerably.

All the pics on the www look like my old supplies.

I printed the reporter, and as you predicted, the heels and mic. don't print, but the rest was quite good.

I tried 25mms today, and that was a disaster. I'm a bit confused, as you said a slow print is bad, but then suggested 25mms.

I received a cleaning rod with this E3V3, but haven't needed it yet.

I upgraded my original unit with a Sprite extruder, and broke the thermistor wires when trying to clean the block. I bought a ceramic hot end with new thermistor attached, but was never able to run that unit again, which I think is to do with firmware, but I really don't know why it stopped. I bought the E3V3, and find the metal removable print surface very nice.

I have never understood that business about the Z 400, and at present, I'm still no wiser, sorry.

Just finished Reporter at 60mms, but her feet broke off. I'm going to fatten up her ankles.

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

Could not find that E3V3KE profile, refer screenshot of available units.

I don't know what version shipped the E3V3KE profile, but I can tell from that picture that you're not running 5.8, which probably has something to do with it.

 

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

I tried 25mms today, and that was a disaster. I'm a bit confused, as you said a slow print is bad, but then suggested 25mms.

Maybe those things are so unstable you can't give them too much time. 3D printing is always a matter of trial and error and what makes logical sense doesn't always pan out.

 

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

The Sprite nozzle is definitely much longer than any in my bags of spare nozzles, which are 4.5mm from shoulder to end of thread. I bought heaps for my original 3 V2, as I did some carbon fibre printing, which shortened their lives considerably.

Not that the Sprite extruder has anything to do with it (it's the "Spider" hot end, or whatever the one on yours is called) but you're right on this one (I guess my memory of changing nozzles was faulty). Except just to be difficult, Creality are now actually using two different kinds of nozzle.

MK8 (what there was nothing wrong with AFAIK):

The kind that apparently works on the E3V3SE, E5S1, E7 (and I don't know what else others but probably some):

And the kind that works on the E3V3KE, E3V3, CR-10, K1 and K1 Max and some others... also on the E3V3SE if I buy a hot end upgrade kit:

Apparently the really long nozzle is for going into a really big block capable of high flow rates, for when you're printing at speeds you shouldn't be printing at (or my printer can't even go at) anyway, like >500mm/s.

 

Just look on Amazon (or wherever) for "<your printer model> nozzles" and you should be able to find it, and once you know what you're looking for pick them out of the crowd if the listing doesn't mention your printer exactly (but the nozzle looks the same)

 

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

I received a cleaning rod with this E3V3, but haven't needed it yet.

No harm shoving it in there just in case, but if things are working fine then it's probably not worth worrying about.

[Airspeed 0]

Thanks for that.

I now see that although I've downloaded and installed Ultimaker 5.40, 5.41, 5.8.1, installing them doesn't update the home screen shortcut. So every time I've hit the shortcut, I've been launching 5.3.0.  I've now deleted 5.3.0 and both 5.4s from the apps list, and changed the path on the shortcut. Checked that 5.8.1 is fired up, and found the 3KE model.

Next potential problem is that I'm being told to update the firmware, but my "printer isn't connected". I hooked up a USB from computer to printer, but  Windows 11 can't find the device. Last time I had firmware problems, I had to get a local tech to help, but he's no longer in business. I'm in country Victoria and there are few around.

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

12 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

I now see that although I've downloaded and installed Ultimaker 5.40, 5.41, 5.8.1, installing them doesn't update the home screen shortcut. So every time I've hit the shortcut, I've been launching 5.3.0.  I've now deleted 5.3.0 and both 5.4s from the apps list, and changed the path on the shortcut. Checked that 5.8.1 is fired up, and found the 3KE model.

Different versions of Cura are happy to live side by side. Good when you're helping people running various different versions on the forums, bad when each creates its own start menu shortcut and if you copied that anywhere else it won't update. You even have to uninstall previous versions of Cura manually.

 

14 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

Next potential problem is that I'm being told to update the firmware, but my "printer isn't connected". I hooked up a USB from computer to printer, but  Windows 11 can't find the device.

Can't that thing update its firmware over WiFi? That would probably be the easiest option.

 

My E3V3SE you just have to load the firmware file onto an SD card (full size, that's relevant in a second) which you're probably putting your gcode files on anyway and turn on the printer, then you need to update the screen individually by  turning off the printer, putting the firmware file on a microSD card and sticking that in a slot on the side.

 

Not sure if that counts as easier or harder than the E3V2 Neo I had, which used a microSD card for both. The screen hardware is almost exactly the same as the E3V3SE, except on the E3V2 Neo's screen the card slot is on the back of the motherboard. As in, you literally had to unscrew the back casing of the screen unit to get to it. But I'm getting off track. I do that a lot and I'm not ashamed of it.

 

23 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

Last time I had firmware problems, I had to get a local tech to help, but he's no longer in business. I'm in country Victoria and there are few around.

Awww, I was in Melbourne last weekend, you should have come said hi 🙂

[Airspeed 0]

Awww, I was in Melbourne last weekend, you should have come said hi 🙂

Or Moo?

Melbourne? I hate going that far, and in that traffic.

I've double checked my invoice, and I actually have the same as you - E3V3SE. [ I think I originally said E3V3. ] Have now set that up in CURA, and I'll try the firmware update. It was one of those updates that sent me scurrying to the tech man a couple of years back, so I'm full of trepidation. If I feel the need, can I check the firmware and screenware versions before I plug them into my new machine?

 

btw, The old unit, E3V2 had to be unscrewed to do the screenware too. As you say, I see the micro SD slot in the left side of the new screen, so that's a tad quicker.

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

1 hour ago, Airspeed said:

I'll try the firmware update. It was one of those updates that sent me scurrying to the tech man a couple of years back, so I'm full of trepidation. If I feel the need, can I check the firmware and screenware versions before I plug them into my new machine?

I don't know about the screen, but I think you can check the firmware version for the printer. Although you can load whatever version of the firmware you damn well please, even downgrades (as long as the filename is different to the last update file it installed it considers an update... that makes fixing a bad update easy though... first hand experience).

 

What's telling you to update the firmware? Creality firmware updates can be a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing. Although the update that made it so you can run a G29 in gcode and not have the printer want manual input to confirm it is nice.

 

Although just to make things difficult, I think to update the firmware you need an SD card (and a microSD card, or just use a microSD card and a full size adapter) 4-16GB formatted as FAT32 with a sector size of 4096 bytes. Hard to find cards that small these days and it'll probably cost you as much as something four times the capacity. Fortunately as someone who has had many, many gadgets over the years I happened to have a couple laying around.

[Airspeed 0]

I only have 32GB SDs, but the firmware and screenware update went faultlessly. Phew.

The suggestion to update is in the CURA dialogue boxes when you set up a new printer.

I'm emboldened to have another crack at the old unit firmware, and see if I can get that going again.

Thanks again for your patience. I should make a donation of cash or a bale of hay.

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

59 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

The suggestion to update is in the CURA dialogue boxes when you set up a new printer.

Please tell me you're not going to be printing over USB (or trying to). USB printing in Cura is deprecated and no longer supported.

It's a leftover from the days when printers were too stupid to even read files from a memory card and needed to be hand fed instructions.

You run the risk of a print failing due to your computer crashing, or defects if something hogs your CPU and commands get delayed (resulting in the head sitting in one place and possibly drooling).

 

Reading from a memory card is not only more reliable, but the printer has power loss recovery so if something does happen you can at least continue from where you were. It also allows the printer to read several commands in advance to help plan motions.

 

If you can't live without the "click and it starts printing" convenience, run a system like OctoPrint on dedicated hardware (not expensive, it'll run on a Raspberry Pi Zero 2) and use the OctoPrint plugin for Cura.

[Airspeed 0]

No intention of printing via USB. Not sure where you got that idea.  I'm happy with the SD card.

btw, I put the Reporter into Blender, gave her slightly thicker ankles, heels and microphone.

Looks good on the printing table, the heels and mic. have printed this time. We'll have to see if she survives being removed.

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

12 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

No intention of printing via USB. Not sure where you got that idea.

Well you did say that you were having trouble with Windows not recognising it as connected (common solution: open Device Manager, right click on any "Unknown device"s in turn and click "Update driver").

 

Also, a setting you should change for models this scale: set Mesh Fixes > Maximum Resolution to something pretty low (like 0.05mm). The setting exists mostly because with older printers, if your models were too detailed (and thus required too many lines of gcode for small areas) the printer couldn't keep up with the gcode, often resulting in overextrusion while it passed through an area with a lot of detail as fast as it could, which wasn't as fast as what the slicer expected it to be.

[Airspeed 0]

Aah, that was because I was trying to update the Firmware by direct connection, sorry.

The model came off OK, here she is with her co-worker operating the TV camera.

They will be at my 1/72 scale airshow, along with various attendees.

I've made a note of that mesh fix, and will give it a try, 😉

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

If you post a project file for one of your models I can see if there's any other insights I can provide. 👀

I'll have to take your word that's a camera and not a rocket launcher. The only rocket launcher I know of for a camera is a lens so it goes in front of the camera. 📷🚀

Also it's not a real 1/72 scale air show unless it has a 1/72 scale plane crash is it? 💥

[Airspeed 0]

On 9/19/2024 at 3:36 PM, Slashee_the_Cow said:

Also it's not a real 1/72 scale air show unless it has a 1/72 scale plane crash is it? 💥

.......well..... I guess I could organise that LOL.

Thanks for your offer, I'll send you the TV cameraman, because he did print with a lot of fuzz around him.

 

Can I slip in another subject, please? I D/L "Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-2024125 by MRiscoc or similar name. Suddenly, the old E3V2 worked. My only question is, that he says it suits a fairly stock set up. Mine has the Sprite and ceramic hot end, so do I need any of the other bewildering array of files that he lists? I'm worried that everything will go crazy if I put inappropriate stuff on board.

CE3V3SE_TV Cameraman.3mf

[Slashee_the_Cow 442]

13 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

Thanks for your offer, I'll send you the TV cameraman, because he did print with a lot of fuzz around him.

I promise to keep my criticism to whatever's constructive and/or funny. I'll report back later after I've had some time to look at it.

 

10 minutes ago, Airspeed said:

do I need any of the other bewildering array of files that he lists? I'm worried that everything will go crazy if I put inappropriate stuff on board

Having Googled what the hell you're talking about (custom firmware for the E3V2) by the looks of it... no. Unless you have a BL-Touch or CR-Touch on yours (in which case you want one of the ones which has "BLTUBL" in the name rather than "MM").

You might have to manually configure the E-steps for the extruder though, I have no idea if that differs between the stock extruder and a Sprite. And if you're slicing models for it using an E3/E3V2 profile in Cura, make sure to change the retraction settings.