I'd be curious what your process is from end of print to paint.
All we did was spray it with Krylon gray primer, then paint with regular craft acrylics, and then finish off the stonework with a dry brushing of Unbleached Titanium acrylic by Liquitex. I'm really happy with the Ultimaker Gray/Silver PLA, we've been testing a lot of filaments by various manufactures and the gray/silver is holding the very tiny details far better than anything else we've tried.
Mini ITX case - 193 x 196 x 116mm
Had some printer issues during the print but since it took 20 hours and it's a first computer for an 8 year old, it will suffice 
5
Made my UMO+ a right side fan duct
Printing the first time with the new duct
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Any big improvements since adding a second fan?
Any big improvements since adding a second fan?
There's a bit of an improvement I think. I printed the Ultimaker robot and it came out better than my previous print. I still have problems with retraction I think (see the antenna)
printed this @ .1mm
printed for a friend, broken into 9 pieces, approximately 150 hours at .2. About 2.5 feet tall when standing.
Edited by Guest
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Great print Dodgrr!
Any big improvements since adding a second fan?
There's a bit of an improvement I think. I printed the Ultimaker robot and it came out better than my previous print. I still have problems with retraction I think (see the antenna)
printed this @ .1mm
And I call this one "Improvements since my projects went underground when the old forum closed"
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ernest if you want antennas any better you must print 2 things to give the pla a chance to cool down. so either 2 robots or print a tower next to the robot.
printed for a friend, broken into 9 pieces, approximately 150 hours at .2. About 2.5 feet tall when standing.
Is this uploaded in the print section? Beautiful print. Did you prime it?
Are you also going to paint it?
Edited by GuestUsually yes, but we print the Ulti-bots at around 30mm/s at (I think) 190ºC and the antenna's are great!ernest if you want antennas any better you must print 2 things to give the pla a chance to cool down. so either 2 robots or print a tower next to the robot.
printed for a friend, broken into 9 pieces, approximately 150 hours at .2. About 2.5 feet tall when standing.
Is this uploaded in the print section? Beautiful print. Did you prime it?
Are you also going to paint it?
Thanks! and yep, it was painted with several layers of primer, a thin epoxy skin, lots of sanding and clean up involved.. I could have run thinner layers and avoided much of the post processing effort but at 150 hours plus already in the project, I figured getting the pieces scaled correctly was challenge enough.. The artist who designed it does indeed plan on painting the beast, I'll update here once it's wrapped up 
Cool! Well.. we would probably have to do some math, but printing at a higher resolution to avoid post processing is not perse faster than printing on a low resolution and doing some sanding.
Anyway, your print looks great! Can't wait to see what it looks like finished.
Thanks! Always some long division involved trying to figure out the sweet spot between print resolution and post processing efforts.. Thankfully toys are a labor of love! Here's a pic of it painted up, this beast was designed by the incredibly talented artist Paul Kaiju, and it will be displayed in the upcoming Designer Con in Pasadena if anyone wants to check it out in person.
LIFE SIZE MOCKBAT:
3
Here my first results for light fixtures for the garden:
I made them from transparent XT and I put a thin layer of Tamiya X22 transparent coating on the lamp to make sure that no water gets in. How good they will hold over time we will have to see but this is the best I could think of. Inside each lamp there is one Cree led which in this case it powered with a 300mA current source. I have a other design in the making where the same led will be powered at 1A. But before I go ahead on that I want to know how good the design is holding outside.
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I have had my UM2 for a year now and can say without a doubt I love my machine. Once I got past the initial teething and upgraded the problem areas she prints beautifully. I am a C-5 quadriplegic with no finger function and I have no problems running and maintaining my machine on my own "for the most part". Oiling, leveling, changing filament, cold pulls, changing tips, (O-BLOCK), removing prints, cleaning the bed, support removal. This is a HUGE deal for me as it allows me to be creative and build adaptive equipment that brings me more independence. I love and want to thank the UM community for all the great information that has helped me build my skills in 3d modeling and printing. Also a special thanks to my friend David S. who took the time to show me his UM2, how to operate it, as well as help me install my upgrades. Hats off to you man.
Ok time to share a print
This is a simple miter gear box I designed to relocate my shower handle in my bathroom where I can reach it from my wheelchair. It uses SS 608 bearings and bolts, with cpvc for the shafts.
Printed in Protoparadigm PLA
height .2 layers
speed50mm/s
bed 55
temp 220
no brim
no supports
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I forgot to add it was all modeled in Sketchup and sliced with Cura
@renthal , what you do is impressive and I'm sure uplifting for others who thought they couldn't delve into the world of 3D printing. Big respect!
renthal, great print and nice design. It`s great to see the UM2 being used so effectively, to literally changed someones life! Cool stuff!
A couple things for my little town! came out better than I thought....
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Nice!A couple things for my little town! came out better than I thought....
@Renthal, thank you for sharing your print with us. Very inspiring to read!
Did you make any other adaptions / upgrades to your house?
@Cloakfiend, do you also have an overal view of your town?
What are you making, a town for a model train?
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LePaul 321
I'd be curious what your process is from end of print to paint.
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