Post your latest print!

[alaris2 1]

the eiffel tower one looks like an interesting challenge. what settings did you use for that? support? speed?

I think we can't easily avoid it burning near the tip without additional cooling fans but otherwuise it might be possible.

I sliced it in Cura. 50mm/sec. .2mm layer height, Fill density: 80% No support. Travel speed: 200mm/s, Retraction (2mm, 30mm/s, mim travel 6mm). There were times when I had to manually adjust (lower) the speed in printrun.

Here is a short video of it printing:

 

 

Will take up the challenge again some day ..

- Hitesh

well I like a challenge so I had a go with 20mm/s, .1mm layers, 50% fill, retracting at 50mm/s with min travel of 5mm (otherwise same as you).

it gave the poor extruder motor a good workout, and printed awesomely until it got kicked off the bed about half way up.

I don't know why the French didn't build it solid with 20% infill...

[Daid 306]

well I like a challenge so I had a go with 20mm/s, .1mm layers, 50% fill, retracting at 50mm/s with min travel of 5mm (otherwise same as you).

it gave the poor extruder motor a good workout, and printed awesomely until it got kicked off the bed about half way up.

Kicking off the bed usually happens during the high speed travels, so lower the travel speed a bit. Also, make sure the first layer stuck really well. Use a very thick first layer (0.3 or 0.4mm) and put up the bed a bit higher so that layer gets really embedded into the tape. Should make it hard to topple it over.

 

I don't know why the French didn't build it solid with 20% infill...

Because, well, you know, they are French.

[Daid 306]

It's a ball of fluffy fluff!

I'm trying to print with flexible PLA, but it's hard. The layers don't stick very well to each other, and prints fail quite simple. It's also very easy for the extruder to dig into the filament (because it's so soft)

This print was tried at 220C, 15mm/s 0.1mm layers, 0.6mm lines. After removing the fluff, the print broke into pieces as not all layers where sticking properly.

I'm now trying the same GCode, but at 240C, and 12.5mm/s

[alaris2 1]

awesome Daid. the .stl for that must be incredibly complex

I did have my speed (for the eiffel tower) set to 20mm/s which I thought was quite conservative.

at that speed it would take 6300 hours to print the real tower apparently.

of course, I'd need to increase my workspace slightly...

[cyclone 0]

Wow Daid, someone needs to shave their armpits.

-c

[Daid 306]

2nd try came out a bit better, but the extruder dug into the filament, so it was printed up to about the same height. However, at 240C it's much stronger and doesn't fall apart anymore.

If anyone with a different extruder design wants to try this stuff, I'll bring it with me on the next Ulti-Evening. I have a 100m roll, and at this speed it will take forever to print it all

Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156

But that also took a 6 tries to get 4 usable feet.

[approx 0]

Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156

 

How is Flexible PLA different from normal PLA (besides being flexible?)? And where did you purchase flexible pla?

[mr_seeker 0]

Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156

 

How is Flexible PLA different from normal PLA (besides being flexible?)? And where did you purchase flexible pla?

Its like PVA: A horror for beginners. Its pretty flexible and bendable, and can be squashed together (so you need to get a really good force to get it working). And you can purchase flex pla from Ultimaker.

[approx 0]

Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156

 

How is Flexible PLA different from normal PLA (besides being flexible?)? And where did you purchase flexible pla?

Its like PVA: A horror for beginners. Its pretty flexible and bendable, and can be squashed together (so you need to get a really good force to get it working). And you can purchase flex pla from Ultimaker.

I see.. what would be an example of a object that would turn out better when printed using flexible PLA - bracelet?

[Daid 306]

Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156

 

How is Flexible PLA different from normal PLA (besides being flexible?)? And where did you purchase flexible pla?

I got it from Ultimaker, they have white and black. And it flexes. It's a bit like a strong rubber. To compare it to normal PLA. I can tie a knot into flexible PLA in 50x50mm, without breaking it or permanently deforming it. Impossible with normal PLA.

But it's almost impossible to extrude it right with the current extruder design. You need something that puts the pressure more spread along the filament, so it doesn't dig in as easy on a soft spot.

[IRobertI 520]

First step towards a solder fume extractor. Still need to come up with some kind of stand for it. This was my longest print yet at 11 hours and I actually had to go to sleep before it finished. Didn't really sleep well... (paranoia about heat and wood).

Also, the print I posted in the first post is now the most popular item on Thingiverse. Yay :mrgreen:

[approx 0]

Note, I did print these noise reduction feet with the flexible PLA, which work great:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22156

 

How is Flexible PLA different from normal PLA (besides being flexible?)? And where did you purchase flexible pla?

I got it from Ultimaker, they have white and black. And it flexes. It's a bit like a strong rubber. To compare it to normal PLA. I can tie a knot into flexible PLA in 50x50mm, without breaking it or permanently deforming it. Impossible with normal PLA.

But it's almost impossible to extrude it right with the current extruder design. You need something that puts the pressure more spread along the filament, so it doesn't dig in as easy on a soft spot.

I might give it a try with Geo Hagen's extruder that I built a couple of weeks ago. Though i'll see if I find somewhere in the US to buy flexible PLA from..

[approx 0]

Also, the print I posted in the first post is now the most popular item on Thingiverse. Yay :mrgreen:

Thats Awesome Robert!

[ian 32]

wow Robert that is an amazing and clean cut model.

well done !!

may i ask, are you using solidworkds to design your models ?

if it is solidworks, does it transfer over in netfabb as a clean model for printing or do you need a lot of clean up work before slicing ?

Thanks for the wonderful photos.

Ian

[IRobertI 520]

Thank you Ian Yes, I used Solidworks for this model and in 98% of cases it transfers cleanly. Sometimes Netfabb wants to fix a hole or two but I've never seen any traces of what is actually done so I'm guessing it's some very minor inconsistencies.

In this model however I was a bit of a moron... if you look at the bottom right, on the inside of the print on the first picture you can see a bit of a weird ridge there. That was caused by me forgetting to merge the interior of the model to the exterior before exporting. In the export to STL it left a strange hole that Netfabb freaked out about and tried to patch as good as it could. I was lazy and didn't check the result of the slice before printing otherwise I would've caught it (it was obvious when you went through the individual slices). And at 11 hours and 16meters of filament I'm not too keen on re-printing hehe.

But yeah, it comes out clean in the vast majority of cases.

[mr_seeker 0]

I finally printed a flex object with a stock UM.

My settings:

repG35 & Slic3r. Using profile "Normal print", 25% speed and 230C. A lot hotter than expected, but it came out quite nicely... The walls aint really flexible, but the support inside is. Its a bit like molding rubber...

[alaris2 1]

OK, a retro challenge.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w228 ... 100593.jpg

a 1970s shatterline lampshade recreated by ultimaker.

23cm high original didn't quite fit my z limits so truncated to 20cm, also reworked to make one side thinner (1mm) than the other (3mm) so light comes out one side and tends to reflect off the other - this makes it a directional light now. hard to see from the photo.

took 9hrs 16mins to print. a couple of minor burns and defects but they rather add to the homemade appearance and are in line with the 'spun resin' original anyway.

nik

[magmotor 0]

Here are some glasses iam working on. This is the first time I've ever used a 'support structure'. I think it used more PLA in the support than it did the whole frame...! lol :lol: but it worked out beautifully...everything turned out like I had hope....the only thing I noticed was that it said it would take 5hrs & 28mins but it went on for 6hrs & 40mins....don't know why..all my other times were right on.......

[ian 32]

oh wow your glasses look amazing.

is it possibe to post one or two bigger photos, so we can see the print quality.

thanks.

ian

[piranha 1]

So here some of my latest prints from my DIY ScrathBuilt Ultimaker

And first print with 0.1 slice in Cura!

I Like it

[technicality 0]

My first Thing on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22819

Martijn introduced me to the idea of mounting a handle in place of the Z-axis covers, so I made one. Decided on using square holes to prevent overhangs, not sure how round holes come out. Anyone got some experience with bigger (8mm diam.) round holes aligned with the print bed?

[owen 19]

Nice print

I go for 8 sides point upwards for horizontal holes.

These have a 22.5 degree overhang at the worst spot and are closer to a circle.

[Daid 306]

I usually just go for round holes and then I'll see what happens. There might be a bit of drooping, but nothing a bit of brute force cannot solve afterwards.

Can the handle carry the whole Ultimaker with some PLA? And does it make it easier to carry then the Ikea Ultimaker carrying bag?

[technicality 0]

Im not familiar with the 'IKEA Ultimaker carrying bag', but at least it looks more professional

It can handle the weight of an UM + roll of PLA (+one more, plus power adapter + UltiController) easily, without any sign of straining or breaking. The design does not rely on layer adhesion for strength.

[Daid 306]

It's IKEA's idea of sponsoring 3D printing:

http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_Car ... ag_by_IKEA

However, I found it a bit hard to pack up my Ultimaker in the bag, and a bit difficult to carry around if you do not balance the weight right.