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IRobertI

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really like the bunny rabbit !! :smile: are you posting it on the net ?

But I have to ask you, what happend to the bottom of your poor paper holder model ?

It looks like the whole base left and right curled up but some how didnt knock the model off the plate.

Did you use brim.. what temp was your print bed ? normal is 75 but I find that way to hot.. 50 for me is better.

Also a little brim is not a bad thing...

Im curious why it turned out like that...

Ian :smile:

 

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really like the bunny rabbit !! :smile: are you posting it on the net ?

But I have to ask you, what happend to the bottom of your poor paper holder model ?

It looks like the whole base left and right curled up but some how didnt knock the model off the plate.

Did you use brim.. what temp was your print bed ? normal is 75 but I find that way to hot.. 50 for me is better.

Also a little brim is not a bad thing...

Im curious why it turned out like that...

Ian :smile:

 

Thanks!

I added the Rabbit on Youmagine, But I do not know if It is properly linked. How can I set My posts to show the Youmagine stuff? Remember, the design is without meshmixer.

as for the box, the presser thingy clicked a lot, and the strands were too thin. When i noticed I set the temperature to build plate 67°C and extruder to 232°C ( from 220). I don't know, I'm positive I can get it better, but I don't have enough material left;) at least no "trial material"(I consider my Colorfabb materials the better ones). Also, the window was open and it is cold in the Netherlands.

edit: i almost always use brim. I find that it is nice to see if the pla adheres or not and if there are any problems.

Cheers!

 

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Yes,the pictures..I got used to the internet speeds here in Switzerland and I don't pay attention to what I upload!

Anyway, next time I'll resize them first..

It is a recording dummy head that help to make binaural recording which lets say simulate the human hearing.

Hide away I hope you don't mean the cap. The head has to be closed and filled with absorption material in order, 1st not to resonate like all hollow stuff do and 2nd The sound must reach the microphones only through the ear canal.

Long story short it has to be as close to a human head as possible.. which means closed.

@AaronAlai

Yes I did.. you can see the other pictures in the album. Although I'm not happy with the finish where the support was touching the model. It's impossible to remove all the support structure.

 

This explains alot, thank you :)

And nice to see an UM used for this kind of project :)

(what is the project by the way? Research of some kind within the field of acoustics?)

Next obvious and interesting question would of course be if the resulting plastic head is "good enough" at representing a human head? How are the resoults so far?

Would it eg. be even better to print a skull as the inner part, place it in a slightly larger printed mold, and then fill the gap with silicone, (or that ballistics gel stuff they use all the time on shows like mythbusters)?

 

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Nothing fancy or highly creative on the photos..

Pretty impressive machine this UM2!

Its my 5th print on the machine and im trying to get it dialed in. Actually there has been little to do and quality of the prints exceeded my expectations. There is still few things what I am trying to improve, but not sure is it reasonable or even possible.

Have to check out first, most of the forum posts and ask later if answers not found :wink:

2014 02 02 0731

2014 02 02 0730

2014 02 02 0729

Casing cover for one of my electronics project. On the middle is place for 2.2" tft screen.

For next i think I will print larger version with 4.3 inch touchscreen see how it goes.

But before that I have to print on off great designs by

IRobertI

To see If i can get rid off one of my questions :grin:

BR

Arska

 

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beautiful print !!

did you do the barrels as a single piece or two parts laid down flat on the bed ?

Ian :smile:

 

Thanks,

It's actually 5 parts, the Barrel standing upright, bottom cap, top cap, spout and lock that attaches to the spout. This is needed to make sure the spout turns the locking mechanism properly. The tolerances are really great, for the bottom cap, I just kinda squeeze the sides in until it's flush and it's more solid than any kind of glue. When locked there is no play between the lid and the sides. It just feels like a solid piece if you don't know it opens.

 

first paint coat before I go to sleep!

 

(I made a mess of the paint job btw, my skills in painting are just not up to a "braddock/Valcrow level" But at least I'm proud. I made it, and its got 4 downloads already!

But how on earth can I couple youmagine to this forum?

Cheers!

 

Looks like chocolate! I wasn't huge into painting my prints before, but once I started it kinda opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

You should try thinning your paints a bit, it looks a tad goopy. You'll get much better results, but it'll take longer.

 

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But how on earth can I couple youmagine to this forum?

Cheers!

 

Click on your name in the upper right of the screen, find the "settings" word and click on it, find the "Signature" tab near the left hand side of your screen. type in everything after the colon in this sentence: YouMagineUser='lennart-bruggink'

Now surround the text with brackets so the beginning and end read [YouM...ink']. I noticed you put a period (.) in your actual name, but the hyperlink to your name has a dash (-) https://www.youmagine.com/users/lennart-bruggink

Edit, I had to edit this as the forum generated your youmagine profile and not the text.

 

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@Lennart Bruggink is there a specific reason you used supports that did not make contact with your base? I think you could get a better finish if you used supports that didn't extrude from other parts of your structure. Also, how did you generate the supports? Thanks for posting the finished painted pictures!

 

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Just finished printing a set of Reptar XY blocks in Colorfabb XT for my UM1. Picture is desaturated because the white balance is f-ed up and it's 3 in the morning so I don't feel like fixing it.

reptarXY

I had a bit of a problem though... These were printed on freshly cleaned glass and even with a room temp bed they were a complete bitch to get off the platform (maybe I should've tossed it out into the snow for a while instead). I finally managed to get them off, destroying one block in the process, but was left with quite a bit of residue from the skirts. I heated the bed up to 80+C to soften it a bit and after scraping a while I got the majority off. However, some parts would not come off no matter what. I think this stuff actually tore away the surface of the glass :eek: Looks like this stuff aint screwing around when it comes to sticking... jeebus. I guess this side of the glass will be reserved for XT in the future.

 

In this first picture you can see residue on the right with scrape marks and in the center is the messed up glass.

XTvsGlass01

XTvsGlass03

XTvsGlass04

XTvsGlass02

 

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Wow. that's pretty intense that it can tear off the surface of the glass... And I thought tape tearing was bothersome.

At least the whole thing didn't shatter on you, I thought glass shattered when it was compromised like that.

On the upside.. pretty nice lookin prints.

 

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IRobertl

i had the same thing posted pictures long time ago in another thread, my glass was pulled away and was left on the bottom of my print using XT bed temp 60 23 hour print.

glass Bed

 

it looks like the material is on the glass but it is not all the areas are sunken...

 

Edit: i did not use glue stick looking back at my thread..

 

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@Lennart Bruggink is there a specific reason you used supports that did not make contact with your base? I think you could get a better finish if you used supports that didn't extrude from other parts of your structure. Also, how did you generate the supports? Thanks for posting the finished painted pictures!

 

Yeah, well mainly I do not know how to generate good supports that go outside of the model. ( that this is written in bold is a way of saying that i love to get somome help in that!). In any way I did it in the Chogath I printed, but cant remember how I did it( probably because I was randomly clicking at that time).

I've noticed that the meshmixer supports were too close to the model so I had to use filler, But I think it came out nicely.

It is btw not finished. If you look carefully, there are some grey patches. Maybe on my next print I'll try the tip for diluting paint.

 

Click on your name in the upper right of the screen, find the "settings" word and click on it, find the "Signature" tab near the left hand side of your screen. type in everything after the colon in this sentence: YouMagineUser='lennart-bruggink'

Now surround the text with brackets so the beginning and end read [YouM...ink']. I noticed you put a period (.) in your actual name, but the hyperlink to your name has a dash (-) https://www.youmagine.com/users/lennart-bruggink

Edit, I had to edit this as the forum generated your youmagine profile and not the text.

 

Lets check if it works!

Edit:; works!

 

I think this stuff actually tore away the surface of the glass :eek: .

 

Wow, I wanted to like your post but I felt sad for you so I didn't.

But Damn, I think NASA would be interested in this type of adhesion;)

 

@ Lennart

It's the blue.

 

Thanksies!

Cheers!

 

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