Post your latest print!

[valcrow 144]

I was doing some print testing, which turned into some paint technique testing, and everything went well so I just decided to finish it. (ironic testing was done on a standardized weighted companion cube ) Old model, but still fun. Paint job is a little shoddy though.

 

[IRobertI 520]

I've been meaning to replace my EDC light for a while now and finally something showed up that piqued my interest, the Zebralight SC62. But it's an 18650 light so I thought it would be too big for easy pocket carry. I got in contact with Zebralight and asked them if they maybe had some more detailed dimensions to share with me so I could model a mockup. They sent me an .igs-file... How awesome is that!

Sure, it doesn't have the full switch included, no recess for the lens or any cooling fins but still, that's about as close as you're going to get without the whole design files. Pretty awesome of them to do that. So, I printed it out to get a feel for the light and I think I might be making a purchase

 

[nudelmannrichter 14]

Needed some bigger caps, bigger than build volume of UM2, so I had to divide in parts.

Printed in Firetruck Red PLA from Faberdashery, Layer height 0,1

I had to do 4 complete caps in total so this took a few weeks....

 

[techbuilder 0]

Needed some bigger caps, bigger than build volume of UM2, so I had to divide in parts.

Printed in Firetruck Red PLA from Faberdashery, Layer height 0,1

I had to do 4 complete caps in total so this took a few weeks...?

 

Very nice!

What filler did you use?

 

[nightwish 0]

Very very good print! Risking to out myself as an idiot, may I ask what it does?

 

[nudelmannrichter 14]

@techbuilder:

I used a standard spray filler putty from auto repair shop.

I sanded it first wet a bit, then filled the joints, Sanded wet again and filled complete surface.

Then sanded wet on the lathe and painted with a foundation to match the colour of the booster rockets.

I also dropped some more pics into the pic album to show a bit more of the printing etc.

 

Hey Nightwish,

these are ballistic caps for rocket boosters for our rocket plane Bachem Ba 349 "Natter" . I have to replace the old ones before next launch. The old ones have been used ones from Star Fighter drop tank and have wrong shape. So I decided to make proper ones on the Ultimaker.

 

 

for more pics, look in the album linked above.

 

[wallan 0]

I have started to work on the print and in filling and sanding.

But I just had to put it all together just to get a hint of what it's gonna look like.

Sorry for the crappy images.

It was hard to get the pieces to stay together and in balance long enough for a picture so I had to rush it...

Anyway here they are..

 

[nightwish 0]

 

Hey Nightwish,

these are ballistic caps for rocket boosters for our rocket plane Bachem Ba 349 "Natter" . I have to replace the old ones before next launch. The old ones have been used ones from Star Fighter drop tank and have wrong shape. So I decided to make proper ones on the Ultimaker.

 

 

 

Wait a Moment.. You built the hole rocket thing and really fly with it? For real? Crazy...

 

[wallan 0]

Started on a couple of test in order to find a god material for filling out the SMALL surface problems that appears on a filament printer print.

 

What I want is something that has auto leveling surface properties.

Tried parquete polish.

To thin so it does not even out the surface.

At least not in one go.

 

So what else makes up a smooth surface, is nice to sand and about the same hardness as plastic.

 

Epoxy glue / resin with some filler (used baby powder for this test).

After applying it seems to do just what i want.

The surface is smooth, layer thickness is nice, wont remove to much details but seems to swallow all small imperfections.

 

 

When looking for the epoxie I also stumbled on something else...

A couple of bottles of Urethane casting resin.

Could it possibly work?

I know it gets a super smooth surface and it does dry a lot faster, around 10 minutes (3minutes when casting) I guess when painted on as a thin layer.

And a first impressions is, wow!!!

 

I will give you some more info on this tomorrow, when I have tried to sand the surface.

The epoxy i used wont be hardened until then (if i did mix it correctly, had to wing it because I did not understand my own notes on how to mix it :oops: ).

Concerns for the epoxy: Will it be nice to sand with the 50% baby powder mix or should I have used more.

Concerns for the Urethane: I know urethane usually is nice to sand but will it stick to the surface as god as the epoxy.

 

Story will continue tomorrow.

 

[techbuilder 0]

Started on a couple of test in order to find a god material for filling out the SMALL surface problems that appears on a filament printer print.

 

What I want is something that has auto leveling surface properties.

Tried parquete polish.

To thin so it does not even out the surface.

At least not in one go.

 

So what else makes up a smooth surface, is nice to sand and about the same hardness as plastic.

 

Epoxy glue / resin with some filler (used baby powder for this test).

After applying it seems to do just what i want.

The surface is smooth, layer thickness is nice, wont remove to much details but seems to swallow all small imperfections.

 

 

 

When looking for the epoxie I also stumbled on something else...

A couple of bottles of Urethane casting resin.

Could it possibly work?

I know it gets a super smooth surface and it does dry a lot faster, around 10 minutes (3minutes when casting) I guess when painted on as a thin layer.

And a first impressions is, wow!!!

 

 

I will give you some more info on this tomorrow, when I have tried to sand the surface.

The epoxy i used wont be hardened until then (if i did mix it correctly, had to wing it because I did not understand my own notes on how to mix it :oops: ).

Concerns for the epoxy: Will it be nice to sand with the 50% baby powder mix or should I have used more.

Concerns for the Urethane: I know urethane usually is nice to sand but will it stick to the surface as god as the epoxy.

 

Story will continue tomorrow.

 

So awesome!!!!

Did you airbrush the urethane casting resin?

If so what did you thin it out with?

 

[valcrow 144]

Looks great! Almost looks smoother than acetone on ABS!

 

[skint 61]

@Wallan, they look awesome..great job mate!

 

[wallan 0]

The urethane did set fast so I gave it a go with the sanding pad.

Incredible...

So easy and nice to sand and so smooth result.

I wish i had something larger to make a test on than this arm.

Regret that I put epoxy on the larger body part (but hopfully it works just as nice).

The Urethane I used was Mouldcraft SGS 2000 but I suppose other works just as well.

Actually I was surprised that it did not run more as I think the 2000 is a really easy flow kind of Urethane.

I think the urethane gets sticky and slow flowing in quite short time so if one rotates the part a little until the urethane sets a little I don't think there has to be much runs or any drips.

 

[wallan 0]

So awesome!!!!

Did you airbrush the urethane casting resin?

If so what did you thin it out with?

 

Just brushed it on with a brush.

Both the Urethane and the Epoxy behaved the same with a little plus for the Urethane.

At first brushstrokes where visible in both of them but then it flowed and even out itself.

 

[pm_dude 27]

So this is not really printed but does contain some printed pieces to help out .

 

You may have seen some early pics on another thread but here is my Halloween costume. It's not Leguman but in the end it kind of look like it... Walking around with this in the subway and at work was pretty fun!

 

 

[wallan 0]

Ahh, so it's that time of the year again...

Really cool idea.

I think it's the first time I see someone use it that way.

If you'r interested in crazy pumpkin carvings then you should check this guy out.

It's insane what he can do with a pumpkin.

http://villafanestudios.com/

 

[nudelmannrichter 14]

Nightwish,

here a vid of a launch trial...

 

You see, Im not gonna fly by myself. We have a test pilot under contract.

 

[pm_dude 27]

Ahh, so it's that time of the year again...

 

Really cool idea.

I think it's the first time I see someone use it that way.

 

If you'r interested in crazy pumpkin carvings then you should check this guy out.

It's insane what he can do with a pumpkin.

http://villafanestudios.com/

 

Wow thats pretty intense carvings. My friend help me out a lot to define the shape and start the carving.

In the end I managed to wear it for a long time. Now I'm heading out in the streets for a good 2 hours. Thank god for the neck brace under the scarf

[wallan 0]

Just want to add that the epoxy baby powder mix worked just as fine.

The urethane creted a little smoother surface by itself, was a little more easy to sand.

Probably just to put some more baby powder in the epoxy to get the same result with that.

I think main differences are that you get more work time with the epoxy but that also mean longer cure time and maybe a little larger risk of runs. The urethane can be hold and rotated to minimize risk of running the short time it takes before it gets hard. I also think the urethane layer was a bit thinner as it was more fluid.

will try the methods more on next sculpture.

Now i gonna concentrate on getting the current finished so it don't end up as just another unfinished piece

 

[alex_3d 7]

Just want to add that the epoxy baby powder mix worked just as fine.

The urethane creted a little smoother surface by itself, was a little more easy to sand.

Probably just to put some more baby powder in the epoxy to get the same result with that.

I think main differences are that you get more work time with the epoxy but that also mean longer cure time and maybe a little larger risk of runs. The urethane can be hold and rotated to minimize risk of running the short time it takes before it gets hard. I also think the urethane layer was a bit thinner as it was more fluid.

will try the methods more on next sculpture.

Now i gonna concentrate on getting the current finished so it don't end up as just another unfinished piece

 

Thanks for this tip, it seems very useful when dealing with large areas that need to be smooth!

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Hi all,

Just some prints done during the Paris Games Week with MakerShop:

The Zombien Hunter on the UMO, printed in 0.2mm layers came out great:

 

Low-poly statue of liberty with thermo-sensible filament (we disable the heated bed to see the change of colour):

 

 

Low-poly masks:

 

 

The bridge of the eyes on the UMO went perfectly well, amazed!

 

 

Wave vases printed at home:

 

 

This one is in glowfill:

 

 

Carved pumpkin with printed spider legs:

 

 

[SandervG 1,521]

Nice pic's!

That zombie hunter is always a great print, I love that model.

Where did you get that thermo-sensible filament from?

It looks great.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

I love it too it prints like a charm

The thermo-sensible filament is sold by MakerShop:

http://www.makershop.fr/produit/filament-3d-pla-thermosensible-vert-jaune-3mm/

(It's their brand of filament).

At the end of the show we printed the Strechlet with the gcode to push the printed bracelet off the bed, was quite fun (did it on two UM2s)

We also printed all the other low poly masks i'll try do get a pic from Vincent to show off

 

[viralata 78]

My first test with Bronzefill:

I definitely love this filament. It doesn't look like bronze in fact, not as shiny as the picture may let think, but it is shiny, heavy and feels like ceramic, or crafted noble material. You won't believe it's printed.

Prints quite well, doesn't stick that much at the beginning so better have two loops around your model to let it stick first. Except that, quite easy.

 

[Titus 170]

with much more effort(or a rock thumbler) you can get really really shiny though. It's just a matter of more effort :(