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Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

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Posted · Post your latest print!

You can also just break off little pieces of filament and put them in the bowden tube one by one.

That way you don't necessarily have to sit next to your Ultimaker. (I know your gonna anyway, because it is better then anything on tv) :wink:

It is very easy, except because it are all separated pieces of filament, retraction won't do much.

 

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    tried it but did not think it was easy at all..... the little parts get stuck in the bowden if they are curved to much... think i used some of the last parts of a roll.... maybe someday I'll try again and straighten the plastic first ...

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    We're clubbed together on an UM2 to produce props for a short fan film we are making.

    It's based on a 2000AD comic strip called Strontium Dog, and we took them along to Thought Bubble comic convention at the weekend.

    Here are a couple of pics with artist Jock (who was a concept artist on the Dredd movie) and Boo Cook who draws for 2000AD as well.

    The gun was printed in about 3 pieces, the helmet... probably about 10.

    Dan at Planet Replicas made the model of the blaster in Rhino, and I made the helmet in 3DS Max.

    Dan then judged scales and printed them out, assembled them and cleaned them up.

    We've had the printer a couple of months and it's been a godsend (a few issues lately with underextrusion, but that's about it)

    There are a bunch more pics at the link below.

    https://www.facebook.com/strontiumdogfanfilm

    1511276_1532328897011581_5021160326421177799_n.jpg?oh=877fdf47e5433755424a7e9f34855432&oe=551BD287

    250339_1532059500371854_4592283728290097828_n.jpg?oh=231d8a22c0076b7696dc049eaeaf00c7&oe=54D6F64D

     

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    hey very good lookin stuff.

    Can u share a bit what material u used for print and what type of postprocessing u used to get the finish?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Looks superb Steve!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    awesome!! Great job on the print + designs and I am happy to hear you are so thrilled about your UM!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Thanks! - it was all PLA, mostly the standard blue PLA that it shipped with from dream3d.

    Dan printed them out, I believe he reprinted the centre of the gun with silver PLA though - but since it would be painted it didn't matter.

    http://www.dream3d.co.uk/pla-filaments-ultimaker/

    Pretty sure it was just sanding and then sprayed with primer, I'd have to ask Dan for the details of what he used...

    The gun still needs a bit of cleanup in the grooves/shut lines at the front.

     

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    In game topics, I posted this PSVita grip for Dualshock :

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:551850

    IMG_5610_preview_featured.JPG

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I never thought about switching colors during a print, guess I'll have to try that next.

    That gun looks great, I'd love to print something like that.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    We're clubbed together on an UM2 to produce props for a short fan film we are making.

    It's based on a 2000AD comic strip called Strontium Dog, and we took them along to Thought Bubble comic convention at the weekend.

    Here are a couple of pics with artist Jock (who was a concept artist on the Dredd movie) and Boo Cook who draws for 2000AD as well.

    The gun was printed in about 3 pieces, the helmet... probably about 10.

    Dan at Planet Replicas made the model of the blaster in Rhino, and I made the helmet in 3DS Max.

    Dan then judged scales and printed them out, assembled them and cleaned them up.

    We've had the printer a couple of months and it's been a godsend (a few issues lately with underextrusion, but that's about it)

    There are a bunch more pics at the link below.

    https://www.facebook.com/strontiumdogfanfilm

    1511276_1532328897011581_5021160326421177799_n.jpg?oh=877fdf47e5433755424a7e9f34855432&oe=551BD287

    250339_1532059500371854_4592283728290097828_n.jpg?oh=231d8a22c0076b7696dc049eaeaf00c7&oe=54D6F64D

     

     

    Nice Work!

    How did you clean the models?

    cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hi,

    Here's what Daniel (who printed them and cleaned them up, and made the CG model of the gun e-mailed me)

    "Basically the parts were assembled using Liquid Solvent cement ( Dichloromethane) which melts the parts together, although I did notice the PLA took a while to really harden back up.

    Any joins and gaps etc were then filled with two part car body filler.

    Everything was then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. I did use soapy water to speed things up but it took a while for the prints to dry out so its not a time saver but just makes the sanding easier.

    Everything was then given a pretty heavy coat of standard filler primer, although this was sprayed from a gun rather than a rattle can.

    This was left overnight ad then sanded once more with 240 grit and given a final coat of primer , but this time from a rattle can.

    I chose to use cellulose paint rather than a two part paint as cellulose works on evaporation, so the paint shrinks back a bit, which helps keep detail."

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hi,

    Here's what Daniel (who printed them and cleaned them up, and made the CG model of the gun e-mailed me)

    "Basically the parts were assembled using Liquid Solvent cement ( Dichloromethane) which melts the parts together, although I did notice the PLA took a while to really harden back up.

    Any joins and gaps etc were then filled with two part car body filler.

    Everything was then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. I did use soapy water to speed things up but it took a while for the prints to dry out so its not a time saver but just makes the sanding easier.

    Everything was then given a pretty heavy coat of standard filler primer, although this was sprayed from a gun rather than a rattle can.

    This was left overnight ad then sanded once more with 240 grit and given a final coat of primer , but this time from a rattle can.

    I chose to use cellulose paint rather than a two part paint as cellulose works on evaporation, so the paint shrinks back a bit, which helps keep detail."

     

    thanks for sharing!

    it looks awesome!

    right now I'm printing a second mass effect character (or at least trying to)

    kwooogan

    kwoogan

     

    The bottom parts I'm printing tonight, although I still have underextrusion issues.

    I hope it will last the night.

     

    Anyway, its my second Mass effect character, so i think i need to paint it better than the last one;)

     

    for now , sleep tight!

     

    cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Thanks, it's been great to dip my toe in this sort of thing.

    My background is CGI, and it's lovely to see a physical prop at the end of it.

    I know Dan has had a couple of problems with underextrusion - it seemed to happen more with the preset values than going in and tweaking settings.

    Best of luck!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    ...My background is CGI, and it's lovely to see a physical prop at the end of it...

     

    then you know the pain of getting an awesome model to work for 3d printing;)

     

    I know Dan has had a couple of problems with underextrusion - it seemed to happen more with the preset values than going in and tweaking settings

     

    yeah, the underextrusion issue is IMHO pinpointable to a bad diameter PTFE loader ( had a problem with colorfabb XT running overnight, but not sticking to the buildplate, in the morning there was one big chunk of clear XT between the 4 hole plate and the extruder. I think it went wrong there.

    HOWEVER, when i print without retractions, there is no underextrusion. This validates the shape of the pulled out filament, which is a sort of cupped thing. I have already sent a ticket to customer support, but I think they are busy as they have not yet responded. at least I can print;)

    Speaking of which:

    The prints of yesterday were finished and... sort of.. glued together.

    In my opinion it looks nice, but nowhere near perfect. I think I am going to give it a basic paintjob.

    Pictures:

    kwoogan

    2014 11 22 15.29.05

    2014 11 22 15.29.28

    2014 11 22 15.29.37

     

    What do you guys think?

    Cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    The UM2 just continues to impress! Printed this raven skull by 3D Kitbash today using the high quality quickprint setting at 215C with Ultimate-Blue PLA. Printed in just over 6 hours. The details are amazing, layers are barely visible.

    Files are available on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:289987.

    Raven Skull

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Started working on a lamp for my office desk.

    Printed it only at 0.2 layer height, It is all I need, plus I didn't want to print for 24hrs...

    It was printed with 0% infill for better lighting effect :D

     

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    then you know the pain of getting an awesome model to work for 3d printing;)

    yeah, the underextrusion issue is IMHO pinpointable to a bad diameter PTFE loader ( had a problem with colorfabb XT running overnight, but not sticking to the buildplate, in the morning there was one big chunk of clear XT between the 4 hole plate and the extruder. I think it went wrong there.

    HOWEVER, when i print without retractions, there is no underextrusion. This validates the shape of the pulled out filament, which is a sort of cupped thing. I have already sent a ticket to customer support, but I think they are busy as they have not yet responded. at least I can print;)

    Speaking of which:

    The prints of yesterday were finished and... sort of.. glued together.

    In my opinion it looks nice, but nowhere near perfect. I think I am going to give it a basic paintjob.

    Pictures:

     

     

     

     

     

    What do you guys think?

    Cheers!

     

    Yeah, Dan's at the pointy end regarding prints, so I've not had the direct frustration of prints going wrong.

    I always find it hard to tell how good a Colorfabb XT print is, the frosting/translucency makes it harder to judge than standard PLA...

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @lennart, why would you print a figurine in XT? think PLA prints easier, its cheaper, and your going to paint it anyhow ..

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Maybe because he doesn't want it to melt in the sun light?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    ...

    What do you guys think?

    Cheers!

     

    I think I WANT ONE, AND I'M GOING TO HEADBUTT IT ALL DAY!! (I'm playing through ME3 again, after being disappointed by DA:I)

    Is the model available somewhere?

     

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