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Post your latest print!


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Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I finally finished and printed my MosFET relay hack that I started a long time ago!

Hey Jonny, do you have any photos of the underside of the circuit board? Curious how the plastic handles the heat of the soldering iron. Great idea, by the way! I was JUST thinking how expensive (and ugly) standard perf board is a few days ago.

 

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Added a picture. Youmagine hates that picture, though... It rotates and crops it. Tried to correct it but it won't accept it. I don't have time for this, so I just have to direct you to the assembly instructions PDF file - lots of pictures there ;)

    The PCB can handle the heat of the soldering process pretty well. You just have to be relatively quick. Also, don't push the wires into the plastic when soldering. Soldering is very easy because there is no ground plane sucking up all the heat...

    Prototyping (Vero-) Boards have other issues than just being expensive: What about the parts that don't have 2.54mm spacing? (ok - none of them in my hack, but there's other projects that have this problem). What about parts that have thick wires? TO-220 doesn't fit through the holes of a prototyping board - except with a lot of force or you have to drill out the holes.

    Then, it's difficult to solder the parts together when you have pads all over the PCB. My solution doesn't have any pads, so you can just put the wires where you want and solder them. Also, my solution has markings on the top for all the components and their orientation. And it has pre-marked paths for the wires so you know how to wire things up. The assembly instructions are more of an explanation of the general working principle - if you know how this works, you don't need them anymore.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    This is my biggest project so far. Printed in over 90 parts and nearly 100 hours of printing. Illuminated with 3 smd leds per chevron. Painted with airbrush. The inner ring can rotate freely.

    Printed with innfofil3d silver metallic and 0.1mm layer.

    IMG 1999

    IMG 1998

    IMG 1971

    IMG 1975

    IMG 1984

    IMG 1985

    IMG 1986

    IMG 1989

    IMG 1997

    Regards Dirk

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Great minds think alike :)

    mine is 1Mtr in diameter, somebody else did the lighting system for me :)

    9 segments were printed in several parts, molded, and cast in epoxy and polurethane resin.

    dscf1896m.jpg

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    That's amazing!! :p love stargate.

    sml_gallery_35866_1100_3124100.jpg

    What are those diamonds in the bg? :shock:

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    That's amazing!! :p love stargate.

    sml_gallery_35866_1100_3124100.jpg

    What are those diamonds in the bg? :shock:

     

    My wife's table decoration :-)

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    That's what's strange:

     

    top: template (from blender file)

    bottom: 'branded' (from stl)

    The template has really strange angles... I'm pretty sure it shouldn't look like that. Which Blender version are you using?

     

    accidently saw this topic

    i made the blender file, but i am not a blender guru

    this problem i have seen before, the simple deform modifier should have its origin on "Cube"

    btw i do a lot with displacement mapping, eg the names on the 3D printed petition http://www.thingiverse.com/joris

    if someone starts a new topic i may give some more tips... : )

    cheers \ joris

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hey guys, here my latest projects. The first a model I found on thingiverse which I liked. He is called Yi Sun-sin and the print is 12 cm heigh.

    And the next, yet another lightsaber :wink: But this one is painted (with hand brushes). This week I've bought an airbrush so hopefully in the near future a print painted with that!

    Yi Sun-sin

    Yi Sun-sin

    Yi Sun-sin

    Obi-Wan Kenobi Lightsaber

    Obi-Wan Kenobi Lightsaber

    Obi-Wan Kenobi Lightsaber

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I just have to direct you to the assembly instructions PDF file - lots of pictures there ;)

     

    The underside is nice. I like the indents for the component wires to fit into. I'm gonna have to try my hand at this technique for the next board I make. Well done. :)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hey guys, here my latest projects. The first a model I found on thingiverse which I liked. He is called Yi Sun-sin and the print is 12 cm heigh.

    And the next, yet another lightsaber :wink: But this one is painted (with hand brushes). This week I've bought an airbrush so hopefully in the near future a print painted with that!

     

    Nice paint job on both pieces! Very impressive especially with brushes. I think good brush painting is actually more challenging than airbrushing now..

    I'm glad you chose to print the 14 piece one. The gold is a little bit strong for my tastes but the weathering is great!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hi guys!

     

    @ BaasB, what are your settings?

    lovely prints!

     

     

    I am currenlty having some bad luck with the prints:

    this is what it should be (base not drawn)

    fail effect

    this is what I managed to produce:

    Very fail effect

    left:

    infill too small, thought it stopped printing because of other things

    2nd:

    try again, only to dischover that for some reason (cura reasons) the top shell was too thin.

    3rd:

    adapted model, however extreme underextrusion.

    4th:

    had it with the colorfabb XT for this print (was printing 0.06mm, I dont think xt likes that)

    tried with an unknown brand. it was going well, until I went out of bed in the morning and found black spaghetti. supportand legs were knocked over and it was printing in air. The printed legs were really delailed, except for the parts were supports sat. I think meshmixer support was too thin.

    5th:

    scaled it to be larger( so the support would be larger), and 0.1 mm layer heigth.

    in the morning, my filament was in a coil ( the ultimaker "pole"was too thick for the spool to be on) and thus, no extrusion!

     

    I hate the coiling issue, though.It happens with all filament spools i have. I think it could be overcome if the manufactrers would somehow relieve stress in the spools by heating it up after spooling, but that is my first thought only.

    I need to think of something of the coiling issue, Ideas anyone?

     

    Stubornness continues, I am now at my sixth try.

     

    It is a rather fragile print though, thats why I am persevering ;)

     

    Cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hello Lennart

    I know this coiling issue very well, but I found a workable solution for me. Because I basically every new filament-roll 1 time re-wrap, and that almost since my first 3D printing hour.

    Bring The inside To The outside

    Unfortunately, that takes 10 to 15 minutes, but it gives me an almost carefree sleep:-)

    Markus

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Ok, so I'll PM my address to dirkdirk and Xeno and you can both send me those StarGates kthx! (currently re-watching SG-1 for the n:th time...).

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Lennart,

    I tried to do a heat treatment to coils and I found out that it is possible to take out the tension by putting the coil into kitchen oven at a temp between 35 and 45 °C for about half an hour. This works fine for me.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    hi guys( and girls!)

     

    accidently saw this topic

    i made the blender file, but i am not a blender guru

    this problem i have seen before, the simple deform modifier should have its origin on "Cube"

    btw i do a lot with displacement mapping, eg the names on the 3D printed petition http://www.thingiverse.com/joris

    if someone starts a new topic i may give some more tips... : )

    cheers \ joris

     

    awesome elephant! and a good cause!

    i love the idea of multiple printers creating something larger, just like the Egg project

     

    Hello Lennart

    I know this coiling issue very well, but I found a workable solution for me. Because I basically every new filament-roll 1 time re-wrap, and that almost since my first 3D printing hour.

    Unfortunately, that takes 10 to 15 minutes, but it gives me an almost carefree sleep:-)

    Markus

     

    do you mean you unroll and rewrap the new spool? because in your picture it looks like it is a new spool ( i know you cant make a picture of a new spool, but curious nonetheless.) doesn't your spool get tangled up if you only slightly let a "lane"lose tension?

     

    Lennart,

    I tried to do a heat treatment to coils and I found out that it is possible to take out the tension by putting the coil into kitchen oven at a temp between 35 and 45 °C for about half an hour. This works fine for me.

     

    I like this! don't invent the wheel, because some nudelguy did it before you;)

    Allright, regarding the earlier mass effect print, i printed it again:

    support for the arms is a pain though. Just cannot get that properly with MeshMixer and Cura. also what I have issues with is that when I use meshmixer first an cura second, the slicer does not print the intersections. what am I doing wrong?

    Showtime! ( or at least intermediate result time!)

    Messy and hairy:

    IMAG1420

    IMAG1421

    IMAG1422

    IMAG1423

     

    and cleaned up:

    IMAG1424

    IMAG1425

    IMAG1426

    IMAG1427

    IMAG1428

    I am always surprised how well the Ultimaker 2 can print the slope (the "back"in this character print)

    even at 0,1 mm.

    Anyway,

    Cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    You sent tali through the vents didn't you! you monster!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Yes Lennart, I wrap new filament always manually on an empty filament coil. The application is a bit tricky, but with some routine succeeds very well... ...during any tv series Look:-)

    If I need the filament until later, then I pack it in a resealable freezer bag.

    Later (after maybe two weeks) I start the 3D printing with the previously smallest radius of the filament, which is much more relaxed after some storage. If the new filament wound is consumed, the beginning is already much more relaxed than before, and subsequent filament strands come much looser.

    The picture shows just re-coiled filament without subsequent storage.

    On my Ultimaker 2 it works fine with the original spool holder. The filament no longer gets stuck and I need to cut no filament amount for a specific object.

    No filament must lie loose in a spiral shape on the floor, my three cats are very sad about it:-)

    Markus

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    And my next Stargate-print :mrgreen:

    I have made this Jaffa symbol of Apophis in Solid Edge. Then I changed the surface in mesh mixer to a old cast gold like surface.

    Printed with 0.05mm layer.

    IMG 2009

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    You sent tali through the vents didn't you! you monster!

     

    hahahahahahahahahaha

    wow caught me off guard!

    I guess you know the mass effect series just a little better ;)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    been printing the "beer lock" with my new BLACK HIPS filament from Formfutura.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I had this massive ugly remote to control my garage door opener. it had to find somewhere to keep this big ugly thing in my car and it would rattle around the dash pocket.

    It ran on a 9V battery so I got a 12v to 9v dc converter and mounted the remote inside the dash of the car out of sight.

    Then I desoldered the micro switch and led then printed a new button to fit into one of the blanks in the cars dash.

    here is the Button in place.

    Garage Door Button In Car

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I had this massive ugly remote to control my garage door opener. it had to find somewhere to keep this big ugly thing in my car and it would rattle around the dash pocket.

    It ran on a 9V battery so I got a 12v to 9v dc converter and mounted the remote inside the dash of the car out of sight.

    Then I desoldered the micro switch and led then printed a new button to fit into one of the blanks in the cars dash.

    here is the Button in place.

     

    If you ever sell your car, its new owner will be forever wondering what this button does... Who knows, it might even drive him mad :p

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Ill just tell them its the go fast button or eco mode :-P

     

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