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Posted · Post your latest print!

Cupcake looks great! thought it was real just really weird you would use so much black dye/food coloring. Don't acetone it, the matte finish is totally what makes it!

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Made 49 photos of my wife, converted with 123D and printed. Well, that's the quality...

Lara1

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Good first try!

I also used around 50 photos i think you have to pay after that or something, and you kinda want to focus on less stuff like a face or leg or arm as the quality wont be that great due to the background interferring and perfect spiraling of photos, but its quite reasnoble for doing faces. Keep trying but work your way up from small objects so you can figure out what comes out best on the software. My main problem was getting my mate to hld still. I wrapped her in a black velvet sheet to cut her head out too as it was the darkest material i could find, and had her pose with a friend holding a black piece of velvet behind her head wherever i was taking the photo. Trying to isolate her from the surrounding.

P.s. Use 3dsmax to give it a shell from the inside so that you dont touch the outside at all. Even though even on my model it was not perfect and the normals where totally crazy, but i was still happy with the outcome. I only use a phone to take the pics as well, im sure if i used a fancy camera they would come out better.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Here is not my latest print, but one of my first, but i think its quite nice eitherway so i thought id share it, if you like i can make a regular one without the 6 and upload it for people who love cup cakes, lol. It hasnt been touched after taking it off the build plate, thinking of doing my usual acetone treatment on it to make it perfect. Printed in my ususal colorfabb black at 35mm/s 0.06 layer height and 230C temp.

 

cupcake.jpg

post a picture

 

How do you do an acetone treatment to PLA?!

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Scifi Lamp

 

Designed in Rhino 3D

41cm Tall

 

Printed in Colorfabb's Bronzefill

Layer Height: .1mm

Wall Thickness: 1.2mm

Fill: 20% Speed: 50mm/s

Print Time: 9 hours

 

The top is Printed separately in Colorfabb XT Clear

Layer Height: .3mm

Temp: 230c

Wall Thickness: .8mm Spiralize the outer contour selected in Cura

Speed: 25mm/s

Print Time: 1.5 Hours

 

 

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

 

@randyinla if you want to smooth something in acetone printed in pla then make sure you use a pla that contains pha or abs, i highly recommend colorfabb but maybe others are also good ive not tried, then print it at 0.06 layer height and submerge it in acetone for about 20-30seconds. After that just leave it alone for like an hour, but as the pla absorbs the acetone it changes state so you should then leave it alone for about 1-3 hrs to see the full effect. After that wait another 3 days or so for it to fully revert back to being rock solid again as it will be flexible in its present state. Remember, you MUST submerge it, simply putting acetone on it wont do anything. If you want it perfect you can sand down the remaining lines if the print was not perfect with fine sandpaper like 240 which is easy when its in its rubber state, and then submerge it again for maybe like 10-15secs. You should now end up with a model that has no lines and has lost barely any of its finer details. I could elaborate but id end up writing an essay, just watch my vids in the art of printing section to get the jist of what im talking about.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

"Submerge it in acetone for 20-30 seconds"?! :shock:

I have a lot of Colorfabb's filament, but assumed it was all PLA. I perform an acetone steam bath on my ABS prints (have left steaming between 30 seconds and 5 min, depending on exposure desired and amount of detail willing to lose), but have never submerged anything into the acetone directly and have never tried doing it with any of my PLA because I've always read that it doesn't do anything to PLA :roll:. I've read that some people have tried certain chemicals on PLA to mimic the affects of acetone on ABS but that those chemicals are much more toxic than acetone and it's not really recommended.

I will try submerging some Colorfabb PLA directly into acetone and see what happens. I am assuming you mean to do this with room-temperature acetone and not acetone that has been heated to 90c boiling?

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Yep kinda like this vid i made, i did a few if you look for pla smoothing acetone cloakfiend in you tube i think, but im setting up a channel to show it in more detail as ive been doing it a while and have learned a lot during my trial and error tests. I might ramble a bit but i dont want to miss bits, im gonna do more close up vids to highlight how good this is, and found that using ultimakers blue PLA you can even print in 0.1 and the Acetone bath makes it look pretty good. But its cheaper as it may contain more impurities and seems lower grade compared to the colorfabb which doesnt seem to dissolve as much.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Hi all,

I've painted this very nice 3D model made by 'Othar'. I used it mainly to practice on painting natural stuff. Printed nice at 0.075 layer but from now on I will be printing only on 0.06 as that is giving superb quality.

The Huntress

The Huntress

The Huntress

The Huntress

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

 

 

Designed in Rhino 3D

41cm Tall

 

Printed in Colorfabb's Bronzefill

Layer Height: .1mm

Wall Thickness: 1.2mm

Fill: 20% Speed: 50mm/s

Print Time: 9 hours

 

The top is Printed separately in Colorfabb XT Clear

Layer Height: .3mm

Temp: 230c

Wall Thickness: .8mm Spiralize the outer contour selected in Cura

Speed: 25mm/s

Print Time: 1.5 Hours

 

 

@Gothampixel, How did you create the color effect in the top part ?

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Our town's Facebook group (Modiin) is holding a contest for the most honest cafe, providing the best meal for the least price.

So I printed a 1st place prize for the winner. The coin says "1st place in Modiin is dear/expensive for me challenge". On the chest, there is our FB group's logo.

Who said that UM2 cannot print in multiple colors?

IMG 0948 Medium

IMG 0944 Medium

:)

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

An update on the helmet/armour we were prototyping for our short film.

Armour (except shoulder pads) were 3D printed, helmet was printed in pieces then a mold made, and cast in PU.

Still needs a bit of finessing - you can see the facets on parts of the belt for example.

10293728_1576413425936461_4355224039153775824_o.jpg

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

While searching trough Thingiverse I stumbled upon this very detailed bust of president Roosevelt. It's printed at 0.06 mm and didn't need any post-processing at all! I've tried to paint it as realistic as possible and I'm very happy with the result. :D

The original print doesn't have glasses, only the nose-part. With a lighter I've stretched out some PLA to make it into a thin strand. Then bended it to a round shape, painted it, and put a bubble of diluted glue in it (just like if you're blowing bubbles). The glue then dried almost transparant giving the appearance of glass inside the glasses.

Share your thoughts!

President Roosevelt

President Roosevelt

President Roosevelt

President Roosevelt

President Roosevelt

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

That looks very nice, it is hard to tell that it is a print at all. Can you divulge your painting process?

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Well since half a year or so, I've dived into the world of miniature painting. There are a lot of techniques, tips and tricks of which I've only unraveled just a few ;)

I've painted the different parts separately, that means the eyes, the face, scarf, shirt and jacket. Of course the whole model is primed with a suitable primer for plastics. Then each part is painted in the desired base-color. So, neutral skin color for the face. Then, with diluted paint in a darker tone of the base-color the recesses, like the wrinkles and ears, are painted. More and more layers are put on to gradually build up the strength of the shades. Then, the same process is repeated but for the highlights, like the cheeks and upper part of the nose and ears. By slowly adding layer after layer the colors are blended to give a natural effect.

It takes some practice to get used to the paints thickness, opacity and behavior while painting. I use acrylic paint from Vallejo, which is generally non-toxic, can be diluted with water and dries very fast.

It helps if the model is very detailed. The more detail, the easier it is to see where to paint which color/effect. It's a little bit hard to find those high quality 3D models with a lot of detail. A lot of them are low poly or bad 3D scans. But every day more and more good models are added online.

At some point I started watching Youtube videos about miniature painting and decided to try it for myself. Now I'm addicted to it :p Try it for yourself!

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I am mostly interested in how much paint there actually is on the model. You tell us you primed it. Do you use a brush or an airbrush? Do you dilute the paint a lot before applying?

Normally you would try to keep the paint layers as thin as possible, but I can imagine that in the case of prints with their visible lines you would want to do the opposite, or maybe fill it with a good filling primer beforehand.

I did some model painting in the past, so I am vaguely aware of the basics, though some changes occurred since then. It seems airbrush is the way to go nowadays, while simple brushwork, layering and a lot of patience was how it used to be done.

Nice to see your work, it really shows how far you can push good prints.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I did prime it with an airbrush, but still a thin covering layer. Because the model was printed at 0.06 mm, the layers were hardly visible. And the general shape of the model helps with that: no bridging required and a nice 'pyramid-like' shape (from large base to small top). I have to say that this print is one of the best I've ever got in terms of quality, mainly due to the reasons above.

Roosevelt unpainted

The actual paintwork was done with brushes. I think, partly because I only just began with airbrushing, that the model is too small. But then again, I've seen people airbrush models as tiny as their thumb ;) With brushes you can very carefully control the intensity and blending of the paint layers.

My next model is this one:

Plunderbuss Pete

 

Also printed at 0.06 and the majority of the model is printed very well. On the arms and around it you can unfortunately see some layers more clearly, which is accentuated because of the grey color of the primer. When the paint is applied most of this will not be visible anymore... but I don't mind that it's visible that is was 3D-printed :)

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!
While searching trough Thingiverse I stumbled upon this very detailed bust of president Roosevelt. It's printed at 0.06 mm and didn't need any post-processing at all! I've tried to paint it as realistic as possible and I'm very happy with the result. :D

 

The original print doesn't have glasses, only the nose-part. With a lighter I've stretched out some PLA to make it into a thin strand. Then bended it to a round shape, painted it, and put a bubble of diluted glue in it (just like if you're blowing bubbles). The glue then dried almost transparant giving the appearance of glass inside the glasses.

 

Share your thoughts!

 

Im surprised how good that painted model came out. I would never dream of painting a model without cleaning it up first. I used to paint citadel minatures in my youth, and watching you do this makes me wanna go back to painting, lol. Keep up the good work!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

That looks surpisingly good. I must remember that, I am sure it will come in handy some day.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Very cool plotter! Clever to use a modular printhead to swop between the applications.

 

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