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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

Nicework @travis-womack

I really like the ball monster madness, and always wondered about how to sit stuff on the surface of an object like a sphere in 3DS MAX.

Only thing I would suggest is to make the er and ma closer to the rest of the letters as typographically they are too far away, but great job on the printing and painting!

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

From the printer:

IMG_20151022_195503.thumb.jpg.b3c096592e2c09a5b891adf21fa171df.jpg

After some finish:

IMG_20151022_200728.thumb.jpg.94e2eccb559acd70c54ed17257b69733.jpg

Detail

IMG_20151022_200819.thumb.jpg.9a2f72ed4eea5fd4076f774242828a77.jpg

How do you guys get that incredibly flat bottom. I still get some relief in the bottom, although it is flat.

IMG_20151022_195935.thumb.jpg.1e3e2c70c45008def58988d9682d68ad.jpg

IMG_20151022_195503.thumb.jpg.b3c096592e2c09a5b891adf21fa171df.jpg

IMG_20151022_200728.thumb.jpg.94e2eccb559acd70c54ed17257b69733.jpg

IMG_20151022_200819.thumb.jpg.9a2f72ed4eea5fd4076f774242828a77.jpg

IMG_20151022_195935.thumb.jpg.1e3e2c70c45008def58988d9682d68ad.jpg

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

just print hot onto the glue/glass on your first layer. done. The 'elephant shoe' is good in my opinion because it guarantees a good stick and is very easy to sand off even if you are sticking two halfs together. Id steer clear from tape, it maybe flat but its not perfectly flat.

......if you are talking about the funny weird wrinkles that appear on the first layer, they usually go by the second, but i see you are using a UMO so i cant say anything on the matter, as i only used one once with a very bad experience and a failed 42 hour print.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I'm printing on an UMO with HBK, I wasn't talking about the elephant feet, but that the lines show and that you feel that some parts are not entirely flat. Given a print from @Korneel for example, that bottom was soooooo smooth.

Perhaps it's too much glue, or wrong glue?

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Fom much experimenting with different glue sticks, i looked for the ones that layed down the thinnest were the strongest and were also scratch proof when dry, so that i wouldnt have to keep replacing the glue after a print. Ive found that nothing beats pritt stick power glue. But i print on a heated bed so have no clue how it would work on a umo im afraid. I get glass smooth bottoms every time and dont get that wobbly effect that sometimes used to happen on the first layer.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Who can guess what the next print is becoming :p?

IMG_20151023_143705.thumb.jpg.7dc373d5c6ae70af947c42d54d120975.jpg

/off topic, is this first layer so messy because of the glue, because of leveling that could be off, or should I decrease the 0.3 first layer that was pretty much necessary for UMO without heated bed.

IMG_20151023_143705.thumb.jpg.7dc373d5c6ae70af947c42d54d120975.jpg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

/off topic, is this first layer so messy because of the glue, because of leveling that could be off, or should I decrease the 0.3 first layer that was pretty much necessary for UMO without heated bed.

 

I get that when the nozzle is a bit too close for a given first layer height.

I regularly use 0.12 for first layer height on my UMO with no HBK. Makes for a smoother bottom when using Kapton tape and a thin layer of glue.

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

It's the DHD :D

IMG_20151023_174951.thumb.jpg.3bcb1d37997030a7b0f3b6d685a8f8e5.jpg

Had some trouble with support but holding parts up manually worked out ok :) I'm happy with how flat the print is(just have to fix that smoothness problem), but I definitely need more cooling power as you can see on both prints.

IMG_20151023_174951.thumb.jpg.3bcb1d37997030a7b0f3b6d685a8f8e5.jpg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Titus it's just too much glue for a perfect bottom. Put down glue in stripes on only half the surface, then use a wet tisue to spread it around (the tissue will remove 90% of the glue which is fine). It should dry to invisible - or very close to invisible.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I recently found that applying a small amount of water first, then using the glue stick all over the bed followed by a clean cloth yields more consistent results.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Thanks both, I'll give that a try. I was making sure it was visible and most of all, could be felt.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I find it best if i can't feel the glue, that way you will get your perfect bottom!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

My model scandi town work in progress...

IMG_1231.thumb.JPG.4058ee4157c9c7b41286c13cb6c9d995.JPG

 

gorgeous! Was there an earthquake? Why are some of the lights fallen over?

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Lol, i wanted to take an earthquake photo, I just finished the lamposts but they were a right pain in the arse to stay level, i've learnt that milliput does not stick to plaster! at all.

Here is the same photo from above, giving more of the landscape. Ill post the final tomorrow, today is my actual last day on this, after a months work. My bed is calling.

IMG_1233.thumb.JPG.35860d231c044161cd6210b77e1d16e1.JPG

IMG_1233.thumb.JPG.35860d231c044161cd6210b77e1d16e1.JPG

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

The houses and chimneys were all printed just once and cast from resin later as i obviously didn't have time to print all 30 of them within my tight schedule. the lamposts and and everything else are all printed and painted.

Original is in leaf green colorfabb which i bought too much of and only prints stuff well that is flat in my opinion. The white one is a resin cast.

20151002_193806.thumb.jpg.53b49d82af43c44d32c36305aa132c4a.jpg

the lampost after repairs...

20151026_211308.thumb.jpg.dcc12e8fe10516b19b0d58f68dda96e7.jpg

20151002_193806.thumb.jpg.53b49d82af43c44d32c36305aa132c4a.jpg

20151026_211308.thumb.jpg.dcc12e8fe10516b19b0d58f68dda96e7.jpg

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

And mr olsson i'm gonna buy your block when i get my printer. Using only one nozzle is a real drag when I get a jam and need to do 30 atomic pulls just to clean the damn thing. And very nice massive print you have there! It looks like a sweet!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Is that a water tower or a cup of coffee on the side? ;)

Town looks really cool! Are you excited to finally put everything in its place after months of work?

@Anders-Olsson, looks very smooth!

How long did it take? Is it a teaser for one of your next inventions? :O

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Posted · Post your latest print!

..It was just sitting there when I got home from work..

:O!!!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I thought someone would reveal the truth by now just by the sheer size of the robot :)

It might be a bit offensive to post here, but here is how 850 grams of Ultimaker robot, scale 11:1, was made:

2015-10-26-6346.thumb.jpg.0f2193b4078e583fcf3d31441548db86.jpg

Printed with 0.8 mm RSB nozzle and 0.4 mm layers, initially at 50 mm/s but lowered to about 35 mm/s due to heating issues. Printing time 19 hours.

Failed overhangs and bridging were fixed using a SMD hot air soldering iron.

This was one of the most fun thing I printed so far, the reactions and smiles are priceless :)

The purpose however was to test how well really large things prints, and how well things scale.

The ugly retraction stringing was caused by a flow setting bug, similar to the <100% flow bug in the UM2 firmware.

SanderG: Nope, this has nothing to do with the things I am developing right now. Give me back the old forum and I will write more about that..

2015-10-26-6346.thumb.jpg.0f2193b4078e583fcf3d31441548db86.jpg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I always wondered how nice those tri-style printers were and by the looks of it very nice layer increments even though it looks so flimsy ....and bringing back the old forum, one can always wish, lol. Art of printing doesn't even load when I click on it anymore, just a blue circle.

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