Post your latest print!

[Torgeir 216]

On 8/15/2018 at 10:33 PM, SandervG said:

Doesn't he need something that might is able to withstand hot water too, something more heat resistant?

 

Of course, I'll say a 100 deg Celsius to be used for normal use, at last..

But what kind of "thermoplastic candidate" will this will be, I'll sure do not know..

However, we have a mixer, that's reduce the hot water to about +60 Deg Celsius.

 

The focus is on the use of PLA in general for this issue.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Found a set of fractals I could put together to make an abstracty Venom bust. These two prints are two different treatments of the same file. The one on the left is a standard print in PLA and only really painted. The bust on the right was printed in the S5, using Taulman's Black T-Glas and Matterhackers clear PETG.

 

The two color print, I also went in and did some really wacky things to it such as heat welded filament into it to make additional tendrils crawling up the bust. The only paint on the  piece is to make the clear part of the tongue red.

 

The single color print I just painted it.

 

Basic Design in Cura

 

Two color print on S5 with extruder 1 supports. They actually came off ok....just required a bit of patience and needle nose pliers.

 

Cleaned and readied. Oddly, the layering is not a noticeable on the actual prints are they are in the pictures. Seems the camera wants to make things much more than they really are.

Left is PLA Painted/Right is PETG two color print with only tongue painted.

 

[gr5 2,024]

Damn.  You should be famous.

[cloakfiend 992]

Nice work as usual kman, my fellow insomniac!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 minute ago, cloakfiend said:

my fellow insomniac!

Ain't that the truth.....

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Teeny barbarian test prints. US quarter and 2 Euro coins for size comparison. Polyalchemy Elixir Natural filament.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[cloakfiend 992]

Looks good kman!. What layer height is this btw? 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

0.1 mm Layer height. The filament is awesome. But, I am not sure how it would work via being painted. Layer lines may show then. You know how they are coming out with filaments that hide any layer lines and with this stuff's sheen/satiny effect may be hiding them. I may have to take pics of the a face or two and toes and fingers to show the detail a bit later.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Here are 3 new prints:

This is a Batman using PolyAlchemy Elixir and Filimentum Extrafill. Poly Alchemy is the dark, Extrafill is the light.

 

Getcher Ya Yas out (You have to be old to get that reference). Printed in Matterhackers clear PETG and Taulman T-glas red. And, yes, the surface was on purpose. I wanted that gumdrop printing look.

 

And the Barbarian printed a bit bigger and with PolyAlchemy Gold this time

[cloakfiend 992]

Oh dear, looks like I need to get a move on.... I think I have an old redux ready, and am working nights again! yay Gonna do me a new Unicron me thinks! its going to be waiting for that finished model when I get home feeling again soon!

 

That second print looks like you just killed a swan!!!

 

 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

2 minutes ago, cloakfiend said:

That second print looks like you just killed a swan!!!

?  Yeah, but I left a smile on its face ? Made it easier to eat :P

[cloakfiend 992]

Lol, That certainly looks like a dark print, makes my evil prints look tame!

[fergazz 60]

On 8/17/2018 at 11:39 AM, Torgeir said:

 

Of course, I'll say a 100 deg Celsius to be used for normal use, at last..

But what kind of "thermoplastic candidate" will this will be, I'll sure do not know..

However, we have a mixer, that's reduce the hot water to about +60 Deg Celsius.

 

The focus is on the use of PLA in general for this issue.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

Hi @Torgeir

good to hear from you again!

 

I believe that the material you are looking for (PLA with thermal properties) should be GreenTec from Extrudr (Austria) or PLATec from Biofila (German). They hold temperatures until 120 degrees, 110°C for sure, but I don't have an in deep information to make sure it's food safe cause I don't know what kind of blend do they use. PLATec also have a good touch finishing, I got the natural one. GreenTec I never used but people from community are saying that it's the same material and properties. 

 

Biofila's website is in reformulation process and it's out of service as far as I know, but you can contact the manufacturer directly in this email: sales@two-bears.eu

Let me know if those materials attends to their needs... we can try to find another one. I also tested Photo-pasta HT and it prints like any other good quality PLA. 

 

I read the full article that you provided talking about PLA in medical field, good stuff! I fowarded to a medical reseach institute that I'm working for and supporting. Thank you!

 

 

 

 

Edited August 30, 2018 by fergazz

[Taru 4]

I am making Lithopanes on an ultimaker 3, these days some I am able to make, some break mid way,  any thing I can improve on . 
 Some even go up to 120 mm, 

[geert_2 556]

On 8/8/2018 at 6:49 PM, Dim3nsioneer said:

Posted August 8 in Post your latest print!

On 8/8/2018 at 6:28 PM, Torgeir said:

He used PLA that's the stuff doctors using for support inside "our" body during surgery.  The PLA dissolve inside body and leave no trace. -Is there something I'm missing here?

 

PLA? Are you sure? Could it be PVA? That one dissolves in water and is quite bio-compatible (but not for all people - some show an allergic reaction).

 

No I think it is PLA indeed, or some sort of. I have also heard that it is used for wires to sew body parts back together, and for some inserts and splints (not sure if that is the correct medical term) around which tissue is supposed to grow. These wires and supports should gradually dissolve in the body, but only very slowly, after the bone or tissue has cured. So it would be rather in weeks or so, depending on size and composition, not in just half an hour. :-) PLA slowly dissolves in lactic acid, its basic monomer, and then further into H2O and CO2, if I remember well. It seems that it is decomposed by the enzymes in the body, similar to the way they also help decomposing food already in the mouth.

 

[cloakfiend 992]

On 8/31/2018 at 11:31 AM, Taru said:

I am making Lithopanes on an ultimaker 3,

 

Ahh nice, I am also making Lithopones, but don't have any white! lol. Just a ton of transparent red! You might want to try to print hotter if you find them breaking or thicken them out a bit...

[cloakfiend 992]

well here are my lithopanes, transparent red didnt work at all, but blue looks nice!

 

another thing i learnt here was that considering these were printed at 0.15mm layer height, after a light acetone brush, at 3mm the red didnt warp. and considering how delicate and thin it is that was a pleasant surprise and another reason to pure brush rather than dip.

 

 

[cloakfiend 992]

Just for anyone else trying this lithopane stuff. White is probably the worst colour to be doing it with. Its just very unforgiving letting in light compared to other colours.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Ok, made these prints from the idea I found on this post:

The smallest one was the first print from the image in the post I linked to. There were a great many things I did not like, so I modified it until I was happy with it. Made a logo for the ship's bow and then made a much larger version to be lit up. This involved a stand, mount and all sorts of things. It is a long print on the S5. These were all printed on the S5 at 0.1mm layer height. I used basic settings without much tweaking.

 

The one that is 'grey' has been shot with a primer coat while I have not gotten around to doing so with the other two. The two smaller ones I am giving to some disabled Vets at the VA to paint and have fun with.....I hope.....

The larget one in the photo is 254mm or ten inches in length.

 

Ship's logo.

 

This is the design for the Lit Model and the base. This ship print will be 16.5" long.

 

And this will be how it breaks apart to be assembled with electronics installed.

Edited September 11, 2018 by kmanstudios

[cloakfiend 992]

Ill show you how to plate you show me how to make spaceships! Deal? Lol.

I love ulysses, i already modeled the cartoon guy!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

4 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

Ill show you how to plate you show me how to make spaceships! Deal? Lol.

I love ulysses, i already modeled the cartoon guy!

Deal!! ? Maybe I should do a post on how I do things like this?

[cloakfiend 992]

Yes please. How do you do all those greeble things. They look more bespoke than the usual hull stuff. Love the boosters as well!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

I will be happy to show you ? Mostly it is the magic of 3D coat and their tool set plus cool brushes I get from gumroad. But, I shall expose the mysteries of it all.

[cloakfiend 992]

Ill show you easy booleans! Zbrush style! Realtime style too. Clean and sexy, and as many as you like!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

I did some research and it would seem that Z-Brush uses 'Pixols' which are a similar animal to voxels. I do not see why you could not use the techniques I use in Z-Brush. I just am not really enamored with Z-Brush for a variety of reasons. Mostly personal....workflow, cost, etc.

 

In a way, it reminds me of the old days when there was Freehand and Illustrator. One was really no better than the other. But people flocked to one or the other based on interface and workflow preference.

 

As for Booleans, that is why I like Voxels. You just do away with the mesh aspect which is the bane of CGI. To this day, all programs have issues with mesh booloeans at times; and on the simplest things sometimes. Pixols or Voxels, they do not have this issue at all and then can be remeshed out.