Post your latest print!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Well, printed ok, but it does not stand on its own. Disappointing really because I usually can get my models to balance ok right off the bat.

 

So, off to the modelarium to tweak it........ 😣

[kmanstudios 1,120]

In a way, this is what I had made a while back. I printed out some things in PLA, then vacuum formed some dental grade PETG over the prints to make molds from them for chocolates. Everything is original except for the 'Bumble' from the 'Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer' Christmas special from the 60's. That can be found on thingiverse. I greatly modded that one. Venom is a mod from my Venom piece a while back and the ornament was from one of my Christmas sets I made a while back. The heart is some goofy thing I made ages ago. I sent the molds to my nephew who is on his way to being a dessert chef....or something else. He is still young enough to change his mind. I mean, he also has an anvil and does hand smithed metal. So, no telling where this young man's mind will take him. :)

 

But, these were his first chocolates he made with the molds. Just got these pics.

 

[Smithy 1,136]

Really great and I am impressed that all the details are still there and got not lost during the molding.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Just now, Smithy said:

Really great and I am impressed that all the details are still there and got not lost during the molding.

You just need to be quick with the molding process. It may have been more prudent to use a higher melt point plastic if I was making a lot of them. But, it was what I had loaded and well, gonna start out with the easiest stuff to print with first 🙂

 

I do not know if they still do holiday parties in his school, but I hope he takes some. Will have the most original treats there 🙂

 

[cloakfiend 992]

nice choccies! I made candles a while back, always wandered if platinum silicon was food safe, I'd imagine so. just never got round to trying it with food.

[Smithy 1,136]

1 minute ago, cloakfiend said:

just never got round to trying it with food.

 

Don't do it, because I guess you will smooth them also with acetone 🙂🙂 🙂 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

 

Don't do it, because I guess you will smooth them also with acetone 🙂🙂 🙂 

🤣

[cloakfiend 992]

come on guys acetone doesn't taste that bad! each to their own I guess, but I don't like Marmite.

 

And dont forget acetone evaporates, but i'm not sure what the acetoned residue is, or if its toxic in any way. I guess I could slap detol over it and all that to be sure?

 

Acetone flavoured chocolate anyone? its the next big thing!

 

Besides, when it comes to acetone, there is nothing to be afraid of. Its harmless. Unless you submerge your hands into it a lot....😖

 

 

 

 

Edited December 3, 2018 by cloakfiend

[geert_2 556]

15 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

nice choccies! I made candles a while back, always wandered if platinum silicon was food safe, I'd imagine so. just never got round to trying it with food.

 

Platinum-cured silicone should be food-safe. In the shops, there are a lot of silicone cup-cake moulds, and other silicone accessories for cooking. Also, platinum-cured silicone is used in dentistry for making impressions of teeth. As far as I understood, it is chemically almost inert; not much can destroy it.

 

However, tin-cured silicone is not inert (and not stable either): it can easily decompose, so I wouldn't use that for food. It is good for single use industrial moulds. Only use platinum-cured silicone for foods.

 

Be aware that silicone is not oil-tight: oils, solvents (thinner, ether, acetone, liquid PMMA,...), and liquid parafines leak through it. Don't ask how I discovered this, after I had melted parafine in the lab oven...  :-)

 

Silicone is watertight because it repels water.

 

[cloakfiend 992]

Yeah, i had a feeling it was foodsafe, i saw people who made molds for bespoke bread casting in the oven. Very funky!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

In a way, this is a follow up on the dancer print I posted before. Balance was an issue on the first one. It was all wibbly-wobbly (been watching too much Dr. Who this week) and just wanted to topple over. So, I had to redo it a couple of times to get it right. I also changed the dress a bit. The interesting thing is that depending on the infill colour used, it can greatly affect the overall hue of the skin. The first piece in the images had a gold infill and made the overall model a brilliantly bright red. The second and third images are using a purple infill and makes for a black cherry red with the same bright red hilites. Balance is now good and have printed several colour variations as well as solid versions. In the first and second images you can see where I made the final adjustments as well as removed that part of the dress.

 

This piece was the first one I did making for the use of infills as a decorative element. And again, have several colour variations as well as solid prints.

 

This final piece is an Angel. Duhhhhh,

 

I included a solid version of the Angel to show how clean it can actually print. So, why is the transparent versions all 'hairy'? Well, I am printing all sorts of large layers with a 0.8 and CC 0.6 nozzle to increase transpareny. This creates that hairy print thing. But, a bit of quick heat from the SMD heat gun and it goes away. But the solid version is not so because even though I am printing with the same nozzles, my layer height is just 0.3 and does not require superheating filament to help it lay down and bond with the layers on the transparent versions. The transparent versions are printed at a 0.53mm height.

 

All prints almost take up the full vertical space in the UM3E. All prints done with the same Art Deco style of minimalism.

 

[fergazz 60]

Really cool. Awesome idea to print infill with different colour, never saw it before. 

 

5 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

So, why is the transparent versions all 'hairy'? Well, I am printing all sorts of large layers with a 0.8 and CC 0.6 nozzle to increase transpareny. This creates that hairy print thing.

Maybe increase a bit the retraction distance can do the job, did you try it? I did it when I print with 0.8 nozzles... it's much wider and needs higher temps to print so... that can be a solution. I'm using a modified UM2+ (capricorn tube and meduza's feeder) and maybe my parameters cannot make sense for you but I believe that I increase retraction distance adding 0.5mm. 

 

Keep doing and sharing those awesome prints dude! Cheers

 

Edited December 5, 2018 by fergazz

[Smithy 1,136]

You know I like your models, but these are absolutely awesome. The color mix is great but I also like the gold angel, the color fits perfectly to the shape. wow!

[kmanstudios 1,120]

1 hour ago, fergazz said:

Maybe increase a bit the retraction distance can do the job, did you try it? I did it when I print with 0.8 nozzles... it's much wider and needs higher temps to print so... that can be a solution.

I gots some things coming up right now, but will look into it once things have settled. Right now it is just mroe efficient for me to design and print as a focus and get around to a few minutes work that I can do whilst watching Dr. Who.

[geert_2 556]

6 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

...

...

 

 

Wow!

 

As soon as enough people discover these pics, this technique is definitely going to become a hype, I believe. Especially since it doesn't require complex equipment or problematic chemicals, or so. Just a dual-nozzle printer, and talent of course.

 

I think you should find a nice and easy to remember name for this method.   :-)

 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

3 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

I think you should find a nice and easy to remember name for this method.   :-)

I just call them 'Gyroids' because all other infills create 'blocks' on the light that prevent the pattern to compliment the skin. :)

[kmanstudios 1,120]

Someone sent me a message asking how I do the type of prints above. Here is a link to the explanations for everyone to see.

 

[cloakfiend 992]

Nothing wrong with Graboids! I love Tremors too!!

[cloakfiend 992]

Here's my 'cuter' version of the puppy I did, I finally finished it off yesterday. Im getting the curse of never knowing when to stop sculpting. It difficult when you are sculpting something from one photo with only one angle and you are not that familiar with the subject matter. I guess I stop sculpting when Im' happy, but sometimes I'm never happy and those models just stay as data, eventually ending up abandoned. Or I just keep sculpting and wasting time repeating the sculpt. When I find myself doing this I up the polycount and that forces me to address other issues which tend to lead up to me finishing it off. I can't finish low poly models.....ever. I can turn them low poly after easily though!! lol

 

Ill give it a little clean up and maybe plate it.

 

I just love my titanium burring tools, made removing all the support material a breeze that lasted less than 3 minutes! I think the fact that titanium doesn't hold heat makes it ideal to burr with! especially on PLA which melts VERY easily when burring! Because of these babies I'll never fear cleanup again. Such a pleasure to work with!

 

Just burred and acetone. No sanding......yet. Even though I personally recommend a light sand BEFORE acetoneing!

 

... actually just thought id add that after the initial acetone application, additional ones have less risk of shrinkage so its fine to sand and acetone lightly again!

 

just makes the areas you sand much cleaner and smoother.

 

....I also realised what was causing all my past failures of support towers previously. and Its so stupid. I had left the rubber cover open and not even bothered to tuck it in to the head unit, so it was basically flapping all over the model and knocking the supports over.....so stupid!!!! but at lest I can use support in confidence again now!!! And its well tucked in!

Edited December 10, 2018 by cloakfiend

[cloakfiend 992]

Heres the bottoms, quick burr and acetone then light sand and quick acetone. Not perfect (but not far off!), but very quick by my standards. Usually large areas of support are a real pain to clean up. Ill do a video about this as its real handy. But again only usefull on smooth or simple undersides.

 

Light burring is also amazing for removing layer anomilies. Sanding just takes ages. Means i dont need to bin items anymore with an odd layer here or there.

Edited December 10, 2018 by cloakfiend

[kmanstudios 1,120]

This one is tricky to print. While designed for no supports (Literally no overhangs in bad angles), it wanted to keep snapping off at the ankle. So, I had to make 'stabalizers' to keep that wiggly nature down to minimum. The balance was the hardest part. I do not really have truly level surfaces, but am testing out another print to see if I can improve the balance. In this image, if I put her in one rotation, it will be fine (as you see. But in another, it will topple over. This was the first design iteration, so I pretty much got my balance nailed, but just not perfect.

 

May just design something for her to stand on so that no matter what surface it is printed on, it will be stable. But to get the best balance possible,  I am printing out a series of tests to see if I can really nail it. I want that balance really spot on before doing a stand.

 

Single wall, 10% infill, Polyalchemy Elixer 'Crimson red.' 'Crimson Red my third foot!! I do not know who named that colour, but they should be shot with the colour gun to realign their naming strategy. Where I purchased it, they used the proper name and then in parenthesis, used 'salmon.' And, oh boy, is it salmon coloured. Just slightly redder than a copper.

 

And the stabalizers for use during print to keep it from being all wibbly wobbly.

[cloakfiend 992]

Crimson red...lol looks more more like my light brown colorfabb filament. All your other prints were red, I assume tr colorfabb red and other stuff like gold inside? I forgot.

 

...you printing all these nicely modelled and posed ladies out... makes me want to print mine, but I might just print the top halves as I'm not happy with the thighs or ankles yet. I keep revisiting them, and sometimes I'm happy sometimes I'm not...I do however love the hair! just gonna plate my daddy puppy today and hopefully by tomorrow Ill have a plastic lady of my own 😉 

 

As for adding support, Id just make an L shape to save on filament and have it link in a tiny place. It will be enough to save it from getting knocked down, I have had to do this a few times myself!

Edited December 10, 2018 by cloakfiend

[Brulti 176]

More like copper than red anything! XD

[kmanstudios 1,120]

58 minutes ago, cloakfiend said:

I'm not happy with the thighs or ankles yet.

That is the problem with trying to do ideals. Drives me nuts.

 

For instance in this series of time, I am using the basic kinda art deco anatomy/simplification from about the 20s to early 40s and letting it be more abstract from detail. But I am also using photo reference and then modifying it to make it work as a non support needed print. I  just try to stick with basic proportions on lengths of relative body parts, like the foot should be the equal length from crook of elbow to wrist. Surprisingly, it seems to be one of the more consistent body part relationships. Stuff like that.

 

 

1 hour ago, cloakfiend said:

Id just make an L shape

These pointy things are actually printed hollow with a single wall. Not really that much lost. They look like they connect, but they do not when sliced. Too thin to register in the slice thickness. Just enough to stop that wiggle as it goes up.

 

 

1 hour ago, cloakfiend said:

All your other prints were red, I assume tr colorfabb red and other stuff like gold inside?

Colorfabb transparent red. Saving that stuff....almost out. Out of almost my transparents at this point.

 

 

57 minutes ago, Brulti said:

More like copper than red anything! XD

It is just slightly redder than their copper. I may shoot some transparent red over it to redden it and still keep that sheen it has. Hopefully......

 

[cloakfiend 992]

6 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

That is the problem with trying to do ideals. Drives me nuts.

 

I have to admit I kinda like the struggle getting there, makes the end result all that more satisfying, even if no one else like the print. If I can make something emotive then my goal has been achieved. I try and learn something in my struggle, but because its usually so bespoke, I get more experience due to my brute force technique or non stop trying.

 

I agree with the theory that an artist produces his/her best work in the midst of a struggle (whatever it may be). It makes the pieces very personal to me. They aren't just random sculpts but more personal struggles that I can draw a close on. Its why I'm so obsessed with details. Not because I want to make them photo accurate but because I want to make them accurate as to what I believe they should look like in my mind. I tried abstract, but just can't help myself adding details to the point of photorealism....I like to test myself. Clothing and fabric textures are my next challenge on 3d prints.

 

I just met a fashion student and she's asking crazy things, which is great. as I love hearing outsiders ideas in processes they have no idea about creating. Printing on cloth looks amazing! I.e. printing one layer then laying a perforated cloth and continuing enables some cool options....