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Posted · Post your latest print!

The other side....

The dots are too far apart though. Image us too hard to read when held up. Closeness is very important doing stuff on fabric. You really dont want he gaps between dots too large. Circles are not a good shape to use....

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

...And my Hello Kitty mat. 😜 im back to sculpting now however, Ill post a vid about all the pittfalls in this technique and a guide of what i think in my opinion are the best methods in doing it are as well!

 

 

20190131_201444.jpg

Edited by cloakfiend
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Posted · Post your latest print!

Either well estimated or just had luck. 🙂

One more layer and it would have failed.

 

IMG_0588.thumb.jpeg.7379c75b52965466285ab81b944c04d4.jpeg

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Posted · Post your latest print!
52 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Either well estimated or just had luck.

 

Nice. I got this all the time on my um2! I've had it 2mm from the screws before. It such a good feeling coming back to it like this.

 

If you guestimate by the average of two rings of filament equals 1 meter. Then a touch more at the start of the roll and a touch less near the end. You generally never go wrong. Ive only had it run out once in 4/5 years but i just stuck and held a loose but of filament to let it finish if I see it running out.. Well annoying if you.have a lot of retractions though. Melting them together on the fly is much more time efficient.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

my first latest glowfil experiments... super quick but fun. Hard to photograph.

 

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Among many other things, I’ve been making dry boxes.. the meter was moved outside through the box in the close up. Each box with 4 reels takes about 38 printed parts plus some shower rod and screws/nuts and silica gel. I’m going to have 3 boxes of ready to go filament.  Probably won’t store PLA in there  The PTFE can go all the way to the extruder (swap out the short piece for a long one). Humidity in the box is running 17%. I’ll need to add a shelf on the back of the machine stand to hold it. This should make things more reliable without worrying about humidity. We will see how it all works out. 

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!
9 hours ago, PaulK said:

...

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...

 

I like the concept of the longer tubes. But I have a question: don't the red clamps pinch off the tube after some time? And how is unwinding resistance in this setup, compared to the standard spool holder?

 

 

Edited by geert_2
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Posted · Post your latest print!

I also like the concept. But ANY form of uneven resistance will ruin high resolution prints. Ive seen it time and time again. On all spool related printers. And seeing as i have been only doing 0.06 for the past 5odd years. As soon as i print on a loose roll i can see it on the model immediately. Halfway through the spool tends to be ok but not the start. They need to invent unloosening spools (or an added mechanism) before printing high res can benefit from these sort of concepts and developments in my opinion.

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Posted · Post your latest print!
2 hours ago, geert_2 said:

don't the red clamps pinch off the tube after some time? And how is unwinding resistance in this setup, compared to the standard spool holder?

 

The clamps are fully adjustable from basically none (allows insertion of the tube) to quite tight. The outer cap controls that. The spools run very smoothly, all unwinding resistance will completely depend on how much PTFE you use.

 

38 minutes ago, cloakfiend said:

ANY form of uneven resistance will ruin high resolution prints.

 

The resistance is extremely low (dependent on how much PTFE you use) and very even. The spools don't hang loose on the rod (which is aluminum shower rod), they have an insert customized to the spool so that it runs evenly on the rod and the spools don't hang here and there. There are free turning spacers between the spools to ensure they don't interfere with each other.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I'm not doubting your engineering or tech, but the only issue I have with spools. Which are the varying resistances of small tangles on a spool. They are flawed by nature well for high res printing anyway. But I'm no engineer, just very observant, id love to be proved wrong mind you.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Are you suggesting to print without spools? What would the alternative be? I've not noticed small tangles on spools which are carefully mounted. I've had some mounting systems on my other printer that gave me grief, but 1.75mm filament (which it uses) also seems a little more likely to do that.

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

Which resolutions do you print. I almost only print 0.06mm layer height. Even a slight tug has an effect on the surface of the model due to the small amount of material coming out the smaller amount of material coming out the larger the discrepancy on the print....due to forces of resistance.

 

...and yes many people print off the spools. Its the only way to go for high rez in my books.

 

The difference between on and off a spool is that you WILL get tangles on a spool, while, off a spool you won't. The resistance is also uniform off the spool. as there is nothing but the filament to move. 

 

From your pic, your yellow spool has tangle potential. It not that often but just a matter of time. I only print with 2.85mm filament.

Edited by cloakfiend

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I'm really surprised that works for you. If I take a length of 3mm filament off spool, it'll try to make its way across the room and catch up on anything. The filament has to be contained someway, how are you containing it?

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

I have an extended filament holder. (usually an empty kitchen towel roll!) then just leave the coiled material over that, so it acts a s a spring untangle-able. ill dig up some pics, I'm doing 0.2mm prints at the mo!

 

Im all about surface quality. Others don't seems to care so much, it all depends on what you can't accept. I can't accept layer lines in some situations, others i can. 

 

Edited by cloakfiend

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I guess our experiences are different. I've never had a spool tangle and found, properly mounted, that a spool feeds extremely consistently, possibly excepting when you get very close to the hub on some smaller spools where the bend of the filament wants to fight everything. That would be the case no matter how you were containing your filament. Different things work for different people, probably due to different needs and setups.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Exactly, find what works best for you. but in my experience I simply can't quickly post process prints of high rez that have uneven spool business. It simply takes me too long. 

 

I don't give up mind you and am always experimenting and encourage other to do the same. 

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Posted · Post your latest print!
4 minutes ago, cloakfiend said:

Im all about surface quality. Others don't seems to care so much, it all depends on what you can't accept.

 

Ya know, suggesting that those with different findings then you must not care about quality is not the way to go about this.

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

I didn't mean that but some people have different thresholds of acceptability.

 

E.g if I'm giving something to a child, I don't care.

 

If I'm metal plating something i do care. I need perfection. 

 

there is no right or wrong way, just methods developed for reasons they were developed for. Printing off a spool has less resistance than on a spool. Its that simple. Theres less weight to move and no overspin. There is simply no potential for a tangle. Im simply trying to minimise any potential failures, and in my experiences tangles have been one of them. Not anymore. And I just weld loose bits together not to waste material.

 

I never mean to offend or anything, even though its easy to interpret that way online. I just have my methods and think they are great, just like everyone else method to them. If you don't have issues with spools, then thats great. But I do unfortunately.

 

Also everyone has their own opinions, and this is just mine. I could be wrong! Suggesting to people they are doing things wrong according to personal opinion is impossible to explain without experience of the issues that person has had and what they have done to overcome the issues.

 

It would be easier for me to slap a spool on and print away, but experience has taught me otherwise..and Im lazy so I don't take pleasure in using my method it also has potential for failure don't forget. but different potentials.

Edited by cloakfiend

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

This was a work project that I decided to print myself. It's a really great model!!

The original was going to be investment cast for a Bentley owners club hood ornament in the USA.

Printed at 0.1 in innofil white pla pro1 with ultimaker PVA support.

Build time was just short of 2 days.

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Edited by ScanHD
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Posted · Post your latest print!

Just Some goofy lamp shades I made a while back.

Shade_01.thumb.jpg.706226988e5a45bc7b090ab5d964d9af.jpg

 

I could go in and trim a few stragglies....

Shade_02.thumb.jpg.71167e86732732390594e9f68b26a677.jpg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Hey, looks cool and the lamp fits also to the design!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Thought this would go in the bin...

Increased temp and flow rate saved it, I think

 

2140649034_IMG_20190301_5682.jpg.ca83341cd3f83c2300cc8c2311631d44.jpg

 

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