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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

To be honest they came out perfect on the s5 but poorly on my um2 but that was with a different filament so not fair comparison. Only one nozzle no support no pva. No acetone. Just did some with acetone in selected parts now because otherwise it ruins the detaiks too much. Ill post more pics. But in my honest opinion, and much testing and practice, all you need for 99% of support on vertical pieces is a single or dual or triple.... .4 / .6 line underneath. Its just the most efficient way of doing it. Cura should include it as an option. Obvs depending on the width of the over hang of course! Works on everything including thing vertical thin structures. And is far more painless to remove. Just needs a certain distance to connect to form a strong structure and enough secondary supports to keep it from wobbling. 

I'm sure i'm the only one who actually understands what I've actually droned on about here but i think i need to make it a bit clearer.

 

...on another note. Those coins didnt require ANY support. I did it just in case. But i decided to print horizontally side by side to prevent the head from tipping them over if aligned vertically. I printed some without any support and was amazed they came out perfect and didnt gey knocked down and without brim too! But i like to be safe not sorry so I slapped a thin wall there that can be snapped off easy after.

Edited by cloakfiend

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

20191122_114207.thumb.jpg.0153b432ff61fe11ef2913bf104415dc.jpgHere no support at all. I didnt realise id made the outer ring larger and forgot to increase the support. Totally pointless but still worked!. Looking here i think ive got a 5 line brim which is my standard. 

So damn shiny this one!

 

 

 

20191210_000527.jpg

Edited by cloakfiend
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Posted · Post your latest print!

This job was one of learning, and all the coins I ended up making destroyed themselves to a certain extent due to unforseen circumstances. Thats the trouble with plating 3D objects. Sealing the object and keepin it detailed at the same time. PLA unfortunately is not watertight. I printed with a bit hollow in the center. Big mistake! as I haven't acetoned these they absorbed a small amount of acid through pourous areas of the PLA and tiny holes in the corners of gaps, and after plating slowly this trapped the corrosive liquid inside corroded between the layers, sparating the metal coating fron the coin. I tried to splice the layer open and inject superthin superglue underneath and iron/burnish it all flat, but the plate is too thick and just cutting it open and sticking a syringe underneath damaged it too much. Lesson learned. If you are gonna plate something make sure its air tight going in the plating solution, or else disaster.... lol.

The main issue was the letters were embossed too deeply and this caused internal cavities. I should have just printed solid or made platinum molds from the start. Now its too much cost and effort to continue so Im just gonna make myself some coins properly, but not 15 of them.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

IMG_2173.thumb.jpeg.8b1e7aaa89d1567200ef4dcfd45ecb75.jpeg

 

Didnt know what to print next so i decided to print this one.

 

8 Parts with supports needed. Using Tough PLA & PVA from Ultimaker.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Cool, have you sprayed the object afterwards? It is so shiny...

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Posted · Post your latest print!

These guys are taking a bath 🤣

25hrs on UM5 .4 @.015 

 

Bronzefil + PVA

 

20191224_111409.jpg

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

Meow, Hail Cathulhu! Lolz for a friend. Very happy with this print, didnt spent long cleaning it up either! 

 

 

20191229_004422.jpg

Edited by cloakfiend
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Posted · Post your latest print!

That is crazy, tell us more. What filament, layer height, what type of support?

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

Nice! ...and kitties too!!! Could you do a close up?

 

And i pretty much always print colorfabb 0.06 default temps on s5 now usually 185-195 on my um2. 

Bespoke wing support default tenticles support at 13%. Three shell 1.2 mm .4 nozzle 2 fast 70mms inner walls 1 outer at 30mm. Hollow. Then a hot knife to cut thruough the support and needle pliers the rest. Then a dremmel to smooth it out and a sand once over and then into the acetone and then touch up sanding here and there and then painting. Done.

Edited by cloakfiend
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Posted · Post your latest print!
On 7/24/2018 at 6:42 AM, cloakfiend said:

In the meantime here is a copper plated bobble head. Not glued yet. but im happy with it. the base has a nice weight to it too. I double plated it due to my wires being frayed first time round and not enough voltage was going through! secong time worked better. Even after polishing compounds simply chucking it back in the tank with a re-plate over the bad areas worked just fine! My other plate is in a state of ruin, but it might just add to the look as the 2 plate attempts are poor and overlapping and crumbling off. looks kinda cool though! with a polish and patina, might just look epic after!

 

 

20180724_112901.jpg

 

Do you have any videos/tutorials on how to do this copper plating? 🙂

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

Talking about copper plating... just did my door knocker today!!! Fresh solution which is why its so shiny! 

Lots of photos for the curious. This was from a scan i made from photos on a trip to barcelona. No real cleanup.will age it. Will look much better then all green and rustic. Just used a nail off my pin head and dremmeled the top off. No tutorials from me im afraid. Not yet. I havent seen any complete ones online, it takes many stages. 

 

...i just read what i wrote and it doesnt make any sense. Its late and im tired and probably poisoned a bit. This plating solution is not doing my throat any favours. I really shouldnt be doing this indoors and unmasked. My throat stung badly for about two hours. I realised (and yet i keep doing it again and again!) as i was looking at it plate, i was leaning directly over the acid bath inhaling the fumes in sheer amazement! Lovely, not. Ill never learn. Night night. Hope i wake up! Lol.

 

20200113_013206.jpg

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20200107_002248.jpg

20200107_002051.jpg

20200107_002023.jpg

Edited by cloakfiend
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Posted · Post your latest print!

Great work @cloakfiend ! Hope you woke up 🙂

 

yesterday i assembled my latest print and used some primer. Still needs to be sanded a little bit. After that painted and will get some epoxy.

 

 

62C637EC-3E2A-438B-A2DA-CB79AF59B0CD.jpeg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Is that a face hugger type thing? .. and yeah i woke up! Lol. Somehow. Throat still hurts though. Gonna wear a mask from now on. That room is too toxic to enter atm. 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Looks like youre holding red hot steel straight from the forge 👍😎

10 hours ago, cloakfiend said:

20200107_002248.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Haha @AndersK yes transparent CF has lots of awesome properties. Kinda looks like an sss shader. Also under some lighting conditions you can get a weird hologram effect where by you can flip between seeing either side really quickly. Looks odd on video, its just the light reflecting and passing through alternating very quickly with just a slight rotation. Ok. Enough rambling about my observations.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  These can test to almost 1/1000 of a wavelength of light although having the mirror within 1/10 of a wave is more than good enough.

 

Basically anything in the photo you suspect is 3d printed - is 3d printed.  The screwdriver is not and the tripod that holds it is not.  Everything else plastic is 3d printed.  Mostly PLA, some parts on the interferometer itself are nylon as they need to bend.  3 nylon parts you can see in the zoomed in version - sticking up the highest (not the knob which is higher I suppose) is the nylon lens holder, the cube holder also and the mirror holder which has a spherical pocket that goes around that sphere on the post.

 

I've made quite a few of these and I keep tweaking the design.  The original design is not mine but got it from thingiverse.

DSC_9492.JPG

DSC_9486.JPG

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Wanted a power socket on my TONONE reading light. So I made one.  Colorfabb color on demand PLA.

Added a little piece of ninjaflex for friction against rotation.

 

TononePower.thumb.jpg.e7e79c43558b6822a98f4437466d690c.jpg

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Perfect color match!

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Posted · Post your latest print!

With the help of 3dninjaprintor from thingiverse I printed a little different version for the forumslader. It is a telephone charger powered by a bicycle hub dynamo.

 

forumsladerbuiten.thumb.jpg.d0922e87971e188b93f19549e63da5e4.jpg

 

All the files can be found here:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/forumslader

 

When printing the top part my printer  decided to have a knot in the filament so the extruder got stuck halfway the print. I calculated how far it got and edited the gcode to start from that location and zeroed the extruder to the right length and restarted the print. It turned out quite will. I miss calculated that layer a little so the hotend was too low but adjusting that while printing is not an issue and it turned out quite well. There is only a very thin line in the print.

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

     zoev89 mentions altering some Gcode to finish a print.  I was having trouble with prints when I started out (mid December) and it annoyed me that the printer knew how many bytes it had digested, but not what line it was on.  So I've written a routine in Excel Visual Basic to get the exact line number of the byte...or the byte of the start of a layer...or the byte of any line number.  I kept going and it turned into a whole printer interface for talking to the printer and tuning prints.   Anyway, now I can jump right back into a file without having to truncate the GCode.  It's really close to seamless too.  Quite pleased with myself about that.

     This bicycle project put some miles on the Ender.  The body of the rear cafe piece with the Red Wings on it was a 44hr 2 color print for the front half, and a 22 hr print for the back end and yes, there is a door and latch.  The whole thing is on a slider to access the door in front.  There are 37 printed pieces on the bike.  The Red Wings have black backs with white inserts and then the red feathers and wheels were printed on top of that sandwich.  Now I'm thinking about a fairing.  Just have to figure out where to put the seams, glue joints, and screws.  The "Hardley Davison" is 2.9ci of butt shaking terror at 25mph.  The long angled piece of PVC is a fishing rod holder.  The short piece with the NOS logo on it is the toolbox.  The cafe back end slides off and is replaced with a store bought tackle box.  I'm really intrigued by the thought of maybe plating some stuff.  Oh boy, another learning curve.

     The main thing I've learned about 3d printing though is that it's all about the flow.

 

DBike 2.JPG

DBike 3.JPG

Edited by GregValiant

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Posted · Post your latest print!

How do you know where the printer is? In my case it only displays the layer height. And by the time I got to the print it was already N layers beyond the point of where it failed... None the less I rescued it so I did not waist any matterial...

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Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

 

4 hours ago, zoev89 said:

How do you know where the printer is? In my case it only displays the layer height. And by the time I got to the print it was already N layers beyond the point of where it failed... None the less I rescued it so I did not waist any matterial...

If it was already layers past the fail then you probably did the best that can be done.  If you send M27 the printer will respond with the byte location of where it is right now.  That would have been useless information in your case.  I've got a digital caliper to measure a print and check the height.  Knowing the height gives me the layer.  Then the gcode file can be truncated and a couple of lines added to go to the correct Z and reset the E before the code starts up again.  That sounds like what you did.

Edited by GregValiant

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