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Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

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Posted · Post your latest print!

not posted for some time, just trying out some model railway carriages! i didn't design this file, just printed them :p

really liking the Colorfabb blue-grey, gives that model making look!

cbj3.jpg

q37e.jpg

some amazing detail, im amazed it got all the slats in the wood! a little bit of clean-up and some setting tweaks (these were super fast!) and they could look fantastic.

 

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    layer height was 0.08 so can go even better!

    shell only 0.4

    speed 40mm/s

    220C

    2.9mm diameter and 100% flow

    on the second one, i decided to keep the roof there, and i used raft just to light it off the baseboard.

    cant wait to try to print my first loco!

    they are also really really small, only 21mm wide each! once again Ultimaker to the rescue. i think i must have stirred something elsewhere as someone contacted me about modelling tips (in sketchup) ,and how they just ordered a V2 as they were so impressed with the speed and precision!

    also, note the second image (box van) the two large blobs are where i (for the second and third time) had a completely random HUGE retraction, must have retracted nearly 20cm of filament before going, back!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hi guys, my cast pieces are done by a foundry here in Sydney, called Chemgold. I believe they use a high end printer manufactured by DigitalWax Systems

    http://www.jewellermagazine.com/Article.aspx?id=2544&h=Chemgold-introduces-Australian-first-technology.

    Eventually I'd like to add a DLP printer, or SLA printer to my bench so I can print my own wax masters.

     

    Nice!

    I know some guys from Retie (Belgium) who lived in Taiwan ( Edwyn on Youmagine). They had a deal with a DLP printer supplier that got them the printer for less money. Look him up and send him a message! Maybe he has some info.

    not posted for some time, just trying out some model railway carriages! i didn't design this file, just printed them :p

    really liking the Colorfabb blue-grey, gives that model making look!

    some amazing detail, im amazed it got all the slats in the wood! a little bit of clean-up and some setting tweaks (these were super fast!) and they could look fantastic.

    Am I the only one who goes "Toot Tooooooot" whenever someone posts a train carriage related print ;)

    Nice work!

    Also I have been "brushing" around and made a spider.

    But I need some help from you guys, because the model I made consisted of an extreme amount of triangles, Meshmixer could not properly configure support material, which led to me using the default Cura support generator.

    As you can see in the Pics, the paws were nocked over ( tips, tips TIPS on this one?), probably due to the lack of sideways support.

    showtime:

    fresh from the press

    dont bite me!

    rawr

    without support (and some legs)

    close up!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Faberdashery Spool Holder

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spool-holder-for-loose-filament

    This is heavily based on the work of others.

    The Arm, Hook and Hub came from Jensa's design here:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-heavy-duty-filament-spool

    (which in turn came from Thingiverse).

    The base is from Cor3ys in this post:

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4498-first-print-straight-out-of-the-box/?p=38596

    I modified Cor3ys upper side part to make it longer and include the tube the shaft sits in. The Hub was modified to make the hole larger and to include a longer tube to stabalise the the hub on the shaft.

    I made a shaft to fit - who wants to buy 2 meters of pipe just to get 175mm worth when you can print one! I also made a base for the spool holder and a couple of spacers to position the filament wheel in the center.

    spool1.jpg

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    FINALLY! I get to post something in this thread!

    Alright here are a couple of things I've designed and printed so far.

    My glasses iteration 1; the frames need a bit of tweaking for the lenses, and I need to print out the stems again with altered code for better hinges (I've already tested the code on truncated hinges).

    A side by side of my current frames and my new ones (the final ones will definitely not be red, I'm thinking black or clear):

    EtQdVPO.jpg

    And some snazzy angles:

    1uyihox.jpg

    vgNM5Pv.jpg

    I made these feet for my UM2 to accommodate a fan for the board:

    Bb427Ei.jpg

    Sj3FLNj.jpg

    After printing for some time I too noticed filament dust collecting at the entrance to the extruder system so I whipped this up; it doesn't spin or anything, but provides a good enough solution for now to my problem:

    wIALWvL.jpg

    yLU8Gu7.jpg

    I'm going to be posting the designs on YouMagine later today.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I needed 4 door knobs for the jamb wall doors in my home office - so why don't print it? :)

    It is based on the Zortrax sphere ball on thingiverse. The spheres structure has been inflated in meshmixer to make it stronger. The other parts are added in Tinkercad.

    Printed in fabedashery gold PLA. Layer: 0.10, speed: 20mm/s, temp: 210°, infill: 25%, shell: 0.8mm

    I am not 100% satisfied with the result as there has to be some filing to remove the short strings. Any idea to improve the quality?

    door knob 1

    door knob 2

    door knob 3

    Cheers,

    Joerg

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I think it is pretty good, but if you want to reduce the overhang you could try to increase the resolution, maybe print it at 60 micron?

    Also for me dual fan worked like a charm on my Ultimaker Original.

    It could make some difference in the overhang.

    An easier tip would be to maybe decrease temp a bit. 210º at 20mm/s is maybe a bit hot.

    Have you tried 200º or 195º?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I am not 100% satisfied with the result as there has to be some filing to remove the short strings. Any idea to improve the quality?

     

    Did you check "retraction"? There are 6 retraction settings...

    1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality

    2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm.

    3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers).

    4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on.

    5,6) For your UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

     

    Without the above part you need at least 5.5mm retraction distance.

    5,6) On UM2: On the printer, you can control retraction there also Leave the retraction speed alone but change the retraction amount from 4.5mm to 5.5mm if the bowden moves up and down at the head (try pulling it a bit).

     

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hey guys I finished Version 1 of my Yo-Yo. I first want to apologize to anyone that tried to print it out in the past without messing with the SolidWorks files, I posted them because I didn't have my printer yet and wasn't sure what the tolerances were going to be after shrinking; uhhh also my threaded bolt and nut were not threaded, but just had rings the same geometries as the threads. I thought SolidWorks would put the spiral in the threads, but I had to do that manually.

    Anyway, I have a couple of little tweaks so people who print the parts don't have to file the center pieces where the axle goes through.

    Here is a video of the Yo-Yo in action:

    And here are some photos of all the pieces, and how it fits together, it's all printable except the string :D:

    merg6ot.jpg

    OakpU4Z.jpg

    OwIHFdw.jpg

    I printed the two halves of the Yo-Yo with a 0.2 mm layer thickness, and the nut, bolt, and bearing core with 0.1 mm layer thickness. I had to use my Ultra-Low settings to print out the core else it would start to form a lip and wouldn't turn out right. I also had to print the core in the orientation it's in with all the pieces displayed, so I could get the fine ridges to line up with the fine ridges of the bolt (axle) to minimize friction and increase hang time. I'm going to try and increase the mass of the outer ring to increase hang time; although I get a pretty decent hang time as it is.

    I'll post the final pieces on YouMagine when I'm comfortable with the tolerances.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    HAY Aaron !!!

    So you got yourself your ultimaker2.... well as my granny would say...

    YEHHAAAAAA ;-) LOL

    Brilliant news my friend !

    I know the wait was worth it.. seeing your amazing solidworks designs already being released into reality... how much is that for a miracle of modern times... :-)

    Super happy to hear your got your amazing 3d printer and cant wait to see your creations to come..

    Can i give you one little helpful tip !!

    You have your filament rolling under the power cord at the back. not the best idea. it adds friction to the filament flow and also not a good idea having filament roll around the power cable.. if filament ever gets rapped up and knoted. it could !! damage your power cable !

    Ian :-)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    can i add one other little note... after being away for almost two weeks from the forum.. coming back and seeing a sea full of amazing beautiful and wonderful creations from users here on the ultimaker forum.. simply breath taking...

    :-) :-) :-)

    Ian :-)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hey Ian thanks!!

    Yeah you are totally right about the filament guide not sticking out far enough and rubbing on the power cord. I noticed this after my first print with it on, I was hoping it would not get too close and rub against the plug, but merely graze it; but I could feel the plug vibrating and knew it was rubbing too much. So I hunted through my bolt collection and found a longer M3 bolt and found a more optimal place to put the guide:

    fQqpnDy.jpg

    I should have just moved the one I had already printed but I wasn't sure how much the filament would curl after moving past the new guide, the old guide does effectively nothing.

    Also, for those wondering where my YouMagine feet post is, I've discovered there is a very large variation in the wall thickness of the UM2 panels. I made some custom .stl feet files for Pikey and his are almost half a mm thicker than mine. I wanted to wait to see if his would fit correctly; Pikey has reported back with great success so I'm just going to make a bunch of different thickness feet and you can measure your panels and select the appropriate ones as needed. One day I'll get into the parametric models thing, but for now it's just easier to make a dozen different .stl files.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Aaron I know i was away a bit and probably people have already asked but... why for example is the inside metal housing panels removed from your printer ? and also why can I see so many loose cables hanging on down there ? Have you modafied your ultimaker2 ??

    Also out of curiosity.. what is the big thing about feet ??

    They do look cool but I just bought my self a pack of felt stickers for the bottom of furniture pieces from IKEA for.. 1 euro and stuck those on and get no vibration or sound problems and also my nice table gets no stratches...

    I love asking questions dont you know :wink:

    Ian :smile:

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I think it is pretty good, but if you want to reduce the overhang you could try to increase the resolution, maybe print it at 60 micron?

    Also for me dual fan worked like a charm on my Ultimaker Original.

    It could make some difference in the overhang.

    An easier tip would be to maybe decrease temp a bit. 210º at 20mm/s is maybe a bit hot.

    Have you tried 200º or 195º?

    Hi Sander,

    thanks for your reply. I will try it with 60micron and a little bit colder (200°).

    Did you check "retraction"? There are 6 retraction settings...

    1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality

    2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm.

    3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers).

    4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on.

    5,6) For your UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

     

    Hi gr5,

    thank you for the detailes instructions. here are my answers (Printer: UM1):

    1) check

    2) was set to 0

    3) was set to 0.02 (default)

    4) combing was 'on'. I will try it with combing off. Unfortunately the print time inreases from 2h 32min to 3h 49 min :shock:

    5,6) was set to 42mm/s and 4.5mm. The clip was one of my first prints with the UM1 :wink:

    I will try a new print tomorrow and post the result here.

    Cheers,

    Joerg

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Leave combing on then. Also change 42mm to 40mm/sec. If you still have the older UM firmware it could make a HUGE difference. If you have the latest firmware it will make no difference (latest caps the speed at 25mm/sec - older firmware does bizzarre things).

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Leave combing on then. Also change 42mm to 40mm/sec. If you still have the older UM firmware it could make a HUGE difference. If you have the latest firmware it will make no difference (latest caps the speed at 25mm/sec - older firmware does bizzarre things).

    You are right ;)

    Result with combing off:

     

    FAILED!

    The firmware of my printer was built with this tool: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

    as I had to decrease the Baud rate in ordern to connect properly with the Raspberry Pi.

    Could this cause any problems?

    btw: here is the printed pibow case: :)

    Pibow Case

    Pibow Case

    Hopefully the Pi doesn't go too hot and melt the PLA :roll:

     

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Ahh, the pibow case. So nice. My Pi has already a case, but this just too cool to not print.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    You are right ;)

    Result with combing off:

     

    The firmware of my printer was built with this tool: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

    as I had to decrease the Baud rate in ordern to connect properly with the Raspberry Pi.

    Could this cause any problems?

    btw: here is the printed pibow case: :)

     

    Hopefully the Pi doesn't go too hot and melt the PLA :roll:

     

     

    love the rainbow look ! :-)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    The firmware of my printer was built with this tool: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

    as I had to decrease the Baud rate in ordern to connect properly with the Raspberry Pi.

    Could this cause any problems?

    That firmware is fine. Excellent in fact.

    Sometimes the USB can't keep up with the printer if you have lots of very tiny movements. I doubt this is your problem. It's kind of obvious - if you try to speed up the feedrate it won't print any faster. You won't hear a difference. If you don't have a musical ear then don't even try this test but I still doubt you hit the USB speed limit and even if you did I'm not sure that it would make the part particularly ugly.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Yes i finally get to show something here :)

    Just received my UM2 today and these are the first two prints:

    premierprint

     

    Me happy :mrgreen:

     

    I had a bit of ticking of the feeder on the brim lines for the strechy bracelet not sure why (not sure either if i should put brim on the strechy bracelet). After that everything went fine.

     

    The ticking of the feeder (or skipping) This is underextrusion right?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    The ticking you heard, was it soft and rhythmic? Or was it a *tock* now and then, with a few seconds in between? If the former, that's normal, the motor seems to make that sound while printing slow on the first layer (I hear it too).

    If it's the latter, look at the feeder on the back and you should see the filament skipping back. If it is, and it's only happening on the first layer it's most likely that your bed is ever so slightly too close to the nozzle. This causes pressure to build up until the motor eventually can't keep its position and skips back to relieve this pressure (it's not harmful to the printer, it was designed to do that).

    Underextrusion can happen both with and without the motor skipping.

    Brim is totally up to you. If your print keeps stuck to the bed without it, go ahead and skip it. That's its only purpose, to help with bed adhesion. Some prints need it, others not.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    It's a tock now and then. As you said my guess it's that my bed is maybe a bit to high.

    There are no problems for the rest of the print once it's start going faster.

     

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