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Posted · Post your latest print!

This might not be a stunning print to all of you out there, but to me this is a huge deal.

I finally have a UM2 that can reach it's limitations!

Test

I would like to thank Ultimaker for sending me a new printer and illuminarti for the g-code file.

 

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    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

    Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

    I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    That is awesome! great to see... thanks for posting!

     

    Our latest print project took 92 hours! Designed by Braddock, such a cool model! It was printed on a Delta Tower, 0.2mm layer height, 16% infill and 210C, 50mm/s speed. Total weight of the print is 2kg! However the model was scaled slightly to big so the antenna isn't completely finished!

    This beauty is going with us to Fabcon - Messe Erfurt 15 - 17 May.

    But we've also been printing with our Ultimaker 2's a lot lately! One of the Ultimakers had some extrusion issues, but after replacing the nozzle and the teflon bit it printed really well again.

    We've 3d printed our logo for the front desk of our new office, if you look closely you can still see the previous company its logo :) The letters are pretty much the maximum build size of UM2.

    ACHFOS - designed by Ola Sundberg. Printed on the Ultimaker 2, at 0.12mm layer height, 210C, 50mm/s, 16% infill.

    Printed on the Ultimaker 2, at 0.12mm layer height, 210C, 50mm/s, 20% infill.

    Printed on the Ultimaker 2, at 0.12mm layer height, 210C, 50mm/s, 16% infill, with support.

     

    Hanging from a very thin fishline looking badass in our print lab.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Coming from 10 years using parametric cad systems, zbrush is so alien to me... I dunno where to start :shock:. I love the stuff that people create with it, but I want the skills immediately without having to wait and train for years lol

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Coming from 10 years using parametric cad systems, zbrush is so alien to me... I dunno where to start :shock:. I love the stuff that people create with it, but I want the skills immediately without having to wait and train for years lol

     

    I recommend downloading Sculptris and give it a try.

    Free, same type of modelling as in zBrush, same controlls but without the intimidating user interface.

    Just save often as it is not as stable.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    IMG 8922

    Filling and sanding done.

    In stead of spraying filler I brush it on.

    The one component fast drying car putty in the image is what i use.

    I use it as it comes on the tube or mix it with Xylene to get it brushable.

    I think I get better control when applying it with a brush.

    Now it's time to sculpt some lingerie.

    I will do that with traditional sculpting as I think that sculpting them in 3D and get them to print god as well as filling and sanding will take a lot longer than doing it by hand.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    The one thing that scultpris doesn't do, as far as I could tell, is remeshing the surface. So it's very easy to end up with bad geometry, where you have parts folded in on themselves, creases, etc, which then cause real problems when slicing.

    I found Eric Keller's book on ZBrush - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BBA30W - to be a pretty good introduction for getting up to speed with the basics. Of course there's definitely a ton to learn, and practice is key to getting the best out of it - and even then, it does so much that you may only ever need a fraction of all it can do.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Yeah I had a very brief play with zbrush some years ago but lost patience pretty quickly. I already have sculptris on my pc too, but haven`t managed time to play yet. I think really, when I use 3D cad all day as a job, i`m too lazy at home to then start learning other 3D stuff... :???: .. its a shame tho, because I love the stuff that people create in zbrush.

    I use Keyshot for rendering stuff at work, and am always in awe at the zbrush users on the forum. Some awesome creations.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Latest parts from my four legged beast. Printed at 0.04mm this took about 24 hours! not without issues though, I had a bit of lift off the bed, and does any one know why the first layer printed so terribly? Also, some odd gouges out the back of one of the horns.

    Straight off the printer, just pulled the brim and support off.

    Skint, I use ZBrush every day, once you get into it, it's awesome. I wouldn't waste time with sculptris, ZBrush has all the tools to prep for printing also.

     

    head 01

    head 02

    head 03

    head 04

    head 05

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Looks great! does it take ages to slice? Zbrush likes it's subd's.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    No, not long to slice.

    I use decimation master before I export, gets the polycount way down and keeps all the detail.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    does any one know why the first layer printed so terribly?

     

    You printed too high off the bed. Any time that happens it's best to cancel the print immediately. The first layer is critical to keep it from lifting. If that happens you can grab the screw and spin it 3 clicks at a time until the bottom layer is looking good once again. Or you can halt the print and re-level.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Ok cheers, I probably should have leveled the bed, haven't done it in a while.

     

    You printed too high off the bed. Any time that happens it's best to cancel the print immediately. The first layer is critical to keep it from lifting. If that happens you can grab the screw and spin it 3 clicks at a time until the bottom layer is looking good once again. Or you can halt the print and re-level.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Wow such awesome stuff going on.

    @braddock: Very cool. did you use any supports to hold the teeth?

    @Skint: Stick with Zbrush, its so worth the learning curve.

    I got my ultimaker 2 on Tuesday and I'm very pleased with it. I havent had much time to play with it yet but will hopfully get a lot done this weekend. The first 2 attempts at printing the ultimaker robt faild with the print coming detatched from the buildplate. this was because I was using the gluestick and turning up the bed temperature too high which cooked the glue and prevented the print from sticking to the bed. Any way after correcting my mistake I got a print that I was really pleased with.

    So now I'm trying to print one of my own designs but I'm running Into some problems and I was hoping somone could help me. I have sculpted a creature bust in Zbrush. I have merged the seperate meshes into one using Dynamesh and have also used decimation master to reduce the polycount. Then I use Meshmixer to generate supports before bringing the model into cura for sliceing. When I get the model into Cura the progress bar fills up slowly and then freezes. I can still pan arround the model and change settings but the model never finishes sliceing. The model is around 400'000 polys, Is this too high for Cura? I also tryed another model with meshmixer supports and had the same problem so I removed the supports and tryed agin. This time it worked but when I clicked the SD card button to save the model nothing happend. Is there a particular workflow when using meshmixer supports? Hope someone can help me out as I cant wait to get printing stuff.

    Heres the model that I'm trying to print

    14006348914_425024967c_o.jpg

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @Skint: Stick with Zbrush, its so worth the learning curve.

    Of course zBrush is the prefered program.

    But, for a person with high moral standards it's also a $795 investment.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Yes, it's certainly not a 'free or cheap' program. And that's unfortunate to the extent that it does create a real barrier for a lot of potential users. It's probably the most expensive program that I've ever bought for myself. Strangely, though, I also feel that it's one of the best value programs that i've ever invested in. The sheer volume of professional-grade capabilities that it has, and the efficient, pretty-much bug free way in which it does them always leave me feeling very impressed. It's targeted at a different market, for a different job, but I think that the cost of zBrush for what it does in its niche compares very positively to, say, high-end CAD packages.

    Of course zBrush is the prefered program.

    But, for a person with high moral standards it's also a $795 investment.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Of course zBrush is the prefered program.

    But, for a person with high moral standards it's also a $795 investment.

    True but it is well worth it. I bought my copy when it was version 3 for about £250 and its been free upgrades ever since :-P

    Another couple of questions. Do support structures need to be merged with the model so that the print is one continuous mesh. Also regrding the problem that I'm having with the progress bar freezing, I am able to view the model in slice mode and move through all of the slices so does this mean That the model is able to print even though the progress bar is frozen and there is no time/material est?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    No, you don't need to merge support to the model. In fact, you probably shouldn't if you want to remove it easily. I use a space of about 0.15mm or so between support and model and that seems to work well for me.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Thanks for the info IRobertl.

    I managed to get my model working in Cura now by either lowering the quality of the layer height or by reducing the height of of the model. I have chosen to do the latter and lower the models height from 160mm to 100mm. Does anyone know why this may of happened?

    Now going to start printing. I'm soooooo excited, this is the first time I'm going to print one of my sculpts :-P!!!

    I'll post results tomorrow.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

     

    Hey guys. Had some dark times with my ultimaker recently... Almost threw it out the window. But I worked through it all and I'm back on top!!

    Here's some stuff i've printed to keep the motivation high.

    Some skulls:

    skull1

    5

    3

    2

    skul2

     

    Early stuff. I've learned a lot since then.

     

    And my big ol' wall art im making. Taking forever:

    wall arts

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Man those skulls are awesome.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    for what it is, ZBrush is very well priced. I use it at work, but also recently bought a version for home. Pixologic also release free upgrades. If you work in a related industry, it's also a tax deduction.

    Can't speak highly enough about ZBrush!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I assume you're talking about supports you generate yourself. I've dynameshed my supports into the model in the past, and if they're thin enough, they'll still break away easily enough.

    There's a feature in cura called "combine everything" use type B if your supports penetrate the main part of your model, it'll treat it as a single skin.

     

     

    True but it is well worth it. I bought my copy when it was version 3 for about £250 and its been free upgrades ever since :-P

    Another couple of questions. Do support structures need to be merged with the model so that the print is one continuous mesh. Also regrding the problem that I'm having with the progress bar freezing, I am able to view the model in slice mode and move through all of the slices so does this mean That the model is able to print even though the progress bar is frozen and there is no time/material est?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I haven't had those problems myself, what version of Cura are you using? I rolled back to 14.01 as I found the new version was taking too long to slice.

    With Decimation Master, you can reduce things quite a bit. Found the point where you start to see facets when you're zoomed in on the model. Those facets wont be visible at 1:1 and your model is much lighter, but I would think 400,000 polys would be ok.

    I'd be tempted to print that model with no support actually, I think you'd be fine. You could perhaps just tune the spikes on the back so they're all slightly angled up, and same with the chin, just nudge the angle up slightly.

     

     

     

    Wow such awesome stuff going on.

    @braddock: Very cool. did you use any supports to hold the teeth?

    @Skint: Stick with Zbrush, its so worth the learning curve.

    I got my ultimaker 2 on Tuesday and I'm very pleased with it. I havent had much time to play with it yet but will hopfully get a lot done this weekend. The first 2 attempts at printing the ultimaker robt faild with the print coming detatched from the buildplate. this was because I was using the gluestick and turning up the bed temperature too high which cooked the glue and prevented the print from sticking to the bed. Any way after correcting my mistake I got a print that I was really pleased with.

    So now I'm trying to print one of my own designs but I'm running Into some problems and I was hoping somone could help me. I have sculpted a creature bust in Zbrush. I have merged the seperate meshes into one using Dynamesh and have also used decimation master to reduce the polycount. Then I use Meshmixer to generate supports before bringing the model into cura for sliceing. When I get the model into Cura the progress bar fills up slowly and then freezes. I can still pan arround the model and change settings but the model never finishes sliceing. The model is around 400'000 polys, Is this too high for Cura? I also tryed another model with meshmixer supports and had the same problem so I removed the supports and tryed agin. This time it worked but when I clicked the SD card button to save the model nothing happend. Is there a particular workflow when using meshmixer supports? Hope someone can help me out as I cant wait to get printing stuff.

    Heres the model that I'm trying to print

     

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