Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Post your latest print!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 4.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

Posted Images

Posted · Post your latest print!

A couple pics of my latest prints

The celtic skull that i posted the timelapse a while ago:

IMG 0914

IMG 0915

IMG 0916

IMG 0917

IMG 0918

IMG 0921

 

A double twisted vase:

 

IMG 0938

IMG 0937

 

The timelapse (yes i love timelapses :mrgreen: )

 

 

 

A raspberry pi case with camera and mount for the um2:

 

IMG 0927

IMG 0932

 

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I caught this video of the software you were using Jonathan Gueron, that's some pretty cool stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzCeHFEUaro, also nice application or the software.

    That's a huge haul Leo! You'll have to tell us what you think about that pen, do you think it could be used to fuse prints together?

    @Valcrow and IRobertI, yeah I'm probably just jealous of the artistic capacities all of these Ultimaker people have...who am I kidding I would probably just sculpt naked ladies if I could do what those guys are doing :mrgreen:.

    @Didier Klein nice prints, they look very professional. That skull looks really slick, lots of detail and very shiny. Nice camera setup, I've been wanting to set something up on my rig as well. Did you use a raspberry pi camera to get higher frame-rates for online video streaming? If so are you pleased with the quality?

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I really liked the look of the Ieyo model by Braddock so I decided to print it on my OG Ultimaker. Sliced in Cura 14.03 test 1, .1mm layers, 195 temp, 50mms, cross flow fan and UBIS ceramic. Colorfabb Dutch Orange.

    IMG_20140501_234304.jpg

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hey Didier, nice cam holder. But I have to ask - doesn't it shake too much while printing? Does it impar image/video quality?

    I used it to do the timelapse video of the vase linked above. Hard to tell if it has moved but i don't think so. I guess it shakes a bit when the head shakes the whole printer. I can try and record a video where it shakes to see how it goes if you want :)

    The parts can be found on thingiverse (case and cam holder) i just added two small legs to snap it on the printer and one thing to mount the camera mount to the case. If someone is interested i can upload them to youmagine.

    @Didier Klein nice prints, they look very professional. That skull looks really slick, lots of detail and very shiny. Nice camera setup, I've been wanting to set something up on my rig as well. Did you use a raspberry pi camera to get higher frame-rates for online video streaming? If so are you pleased with the quality?

    Thanks Aaron :) the skull is very nice yes, the model itself is very detailed it helps a lot. it was printed at 0.16mm layer height but looks very smooth.

    The cam is a raspicam but for the moment i don't know why but if i try to stream the video and check it out on my laptop i loose the wifi connection. Quality looks good to me. It's able to take very good quality pictures too.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    hey guys...

    never posted something here but i always love the stuff you make.

    my latest project is a controlpanel because i didn't like the original.

    wanted something with silver and wood and here it is. a little big but i wanted it like that:)

    e

    f

    d

    g

     

    the switches are there to turn on the light and the heated bed. there are also hidden LED's above the switches that light through the front. i made a design that i can easily switch between masks with different colors.

    next step is to install all the electric components and then i'm done;)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    That looks great! love the knob shape and duotone.

    Looks like you're pretty serious about your mods too, you should definitely post more stuff.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    hey guys...

    never posted something here but i always love the stuff you make.

    my latest project is a controlpanel because i didn't like the original.

    wanted something with silver and wood and here it is. a little big but i wanted it like that:)

     

     

     

     

    the switches are there to turn on the light and the heated bed. there are also hidden LED's above the switches that light through the front. i made a design that i can easily switch between masks with different colors.

    next step is to install all the electric components and then i'm done;)

    PIMP that thing baby !!

    Absolutyl love your new control pad !! very retro and very cool !!

    Ian :-)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Awesome work ulbie

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    So I've been testing out the free colorfabb samples I've been given and I have to say That I'm a bit disappointed so far. I've tried various different heat and speed settings but everything I try with this stuff comes out very stringy/hairy.

    Printed a small version of the grinner character

    Height 50mm

    Speed 30mm/sec

    infill speed 50mm/sec

    layer height 0.02mm

    nozle temp 200C

    bed temp 60C

    13908546098_111269fbaf_b.jpg14091924081_a6407cc638_b.jpg

    I really hope its just a bad sample and that the bluegrey colorfabb that I bought isn't like this

    Does anyone else out there that uses colorfabb have any tips or advice on heat settings etc?

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @LeoDDC: colorFabb has a new "learning" section on their site. There are a few sample objects with print settings:

     

     

    But layer height of 0.02? Isn't it a bit extreme? I haven't printed below 0.05, but when I did, I remember the prints to be very "hairy" - lots of very thin strands even on flat surfaces.

    Also the Cura tooltip for infill speed (advanced settings) indicates that it can impair print quality if set differently from the overall speed. Another thing to try.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @LeoDDC: colorFabb has a new "learning" section on their site. There are a few sample objects with print settings:

     

     

    But layer height of 0.02? Isn't it a bit extreme? I haven't printed below 0.05, but when I did, I remember the prints to be very "hairy" - lots of very thin strands even on flat surfaces.

    Also the Cura tooltip for infill speed (advanced settings) indicates that it can impair print quality if set differently from the overall speed. Another thing to try.

     

    Thanks for the link.

    I only went down that far just to see how it came out but on other test prints I have done with 0.06/ 0.1 and 0 infill speed I still had crappy results. I remain positive as I have seen some really nice prints done in colorfabb so I'm sure its just a learning curve.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I hope so too. Never printed with colorFabb but I can't wait to fix my printer issues since I have a very sexy http://colorfabb.com/fluorescent-green spool here to play with :)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hey Leo, I've been getting good results with colorfabb at 210 with very little stringing, but my best results are with larger prints.

    On the UM2 there's very little noticeable difference between 0.06 and 0.04 other than waiting a lot longer.

    0.02 is a waste of time.

    Small detailed parts with overhangs don't go too well with FDM printers, but you can get much better results than what you have here.

    Make sure your wall thickness is no less than 1.2mm

    In expert settings, set both the retraction options to 0 (min travel and min extrusion)

    On the printer, set retraction length to 5.5, these tweaks should reduce your stringing.

     

     

    Thanks for the link.

    I only went down that far just to see how it came out but on other test prints I have done with 0.06/ 0.1 and 0 infill speed I still had crappy results. I remain positive as I have seen some really nice prints done in colorfabb so I'm sure its just a learning curve.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I thought some of you might like to see this. Jamie from 3Dprintergear here in Aus printed my Ieyo character on a Form1 and sent me the print. I'm not sure if he used it's highest settings, it looks to me to be a 50 micron print.

    You can still see layer lines, but the surface is beautiful, especially the overhangs, just nice smooth surfaces. Difficult to photograph this material with my phone, but you can tell it's smooth. This process is simply better for this kind of work, the surface quality and overhangs, can't be matched with FDM.

    When I saw this, part of me had one of those "I bought the wrong printer" moments... but, this apparently used $25 worth of resin, and it's quite brittle, the tip actually broke off.

    I also wouldn't want to use this type of printer for my larger scale stuff... like the 1:1 terminator Endoskull I'm making.

     

    Ieyo Form1 01

    Ieyo Form1 02

    Ieyo Form1 03

    Ieyo Form1 04

     

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @braddock: Thanks for the info man, I'll give this a try soon.

    The form 1 print looks really nice but I have heard that there are still a lot of teething issues with this printer so don't be too hung up. Also when the dual extruder comes out we will be able to print solid beds of dissolvable supports and have perfect overhangs... I hope :grin:

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I was really considering the form 1 back when deciding which printer to buy as well.. but the cost of the resin was the biggest turn off.

    Anyways, latest print/paintjob.. A lightsaber for may the 4th be with you day. :mrgreen:

    Printed at 0.12mm 0.2mm for the rifle grenade.

    IMG_20140428_000804.jpg

    UM_Lightsaber-4B.jpg

    UM_Lightsaber-11.jpg

    UM_Lightsaber-12.jpg

    UM_Lightsaber-1.jpg

    UM_Lightsaber-9.jpg

    Bonus mini one!

    UM_Lightsaber-5.jpg

    More pics here:

    http://www.redicubricks.com/3d-printed-full-sized-obi-wan-lightsaber/

    And STLs here:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/star-wars-lightsaber

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Ok Valcrow, you convinced me with that beautiful thing...next time to carnival I will dress myself as a jedi:) Whenever I see a cheap plastic replica in a shop I will laugh by knowing I have the better one...just need to get some painting skills;)

    Great job!

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Woah Valcrow that is Awesome work. Loving that paint job dude.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I think Valcrow is not telling the truth. This is not a 3D print. It's a real working lightsaber and Valcrow built it himself as he is actually a Jedi. At least the lightsaber looks like that.

    There is nothing more to say than that: Awsome print and paint job! :cool:

    The Force was definitively with you when you built that! ;)

    Yoda

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    As usual many superior prints/paint jobs; nice looking paint job Valcrow. @Braddock, thanks for the post. I've been wondering about the print material for a while; I knew it was expensive and I heard it was brittle which are the two reasons I did not go that route either. I'm hoping water soluble support material along with a second extruder will brighten up ugly overhangs.

    I spent an afternoon designing and building this little guy; it's a key-ring flashlight. I wanted to build something really small that had no other pieces other than leds (surface mount), wire, and a battery. For the switching mechanism, you push the battery towards the led side of the device, there are little notches that hold the battery in place and keep the battery from falling out the back of the device. The battery can be removed if enough force is exerted to push it pas the notches at the back.

    So8lDQY.jpg

    2OJXCSr.jpg

    7qsv0o9.jpg

    This is sort of the evolution of the light, initially it was just to test an idea I had to embed circuitry into the plastic via channels for wires and such. It ended up working and led to the LED flashlight. The solder job is significantly better than what is depicted below, all the functional units are glued together. If anyone is interested I can take a really good picture of one before it gets sealed, I'm currently printing out a whole tray of them.

    aMVCgsF.jpg

    I think the coolest part is the switching mechanism. The battery touches wire that I've melted into the plastic itself, I take a pair of tweezers and bend a really small hook into the wire end, then rest it upon little plastic islands I printed out to retain the metal, and touch the tip of my iron to the top of the hook which supplies heat to the bottom of the hook which resides on the plastic island. The heat melts the plastic and I push down just a little with the iron to seat everything; the bond is really strong and I have yet to break the switching mechanism through lots and lots of fiddling.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Very clever Aaron! It looks very nice (want!)

    Now combine it with a smaller third plate where only the circuitry+battery resides, use the pause_at_z plugin to place the plate on the already printed one, continue the print and you'd have a seamless object :)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I was working on something practical the last days. An Inbus holder that lets you rotate the inbus keys so you can get the smaller ones out easier... i needed a whole battery of gears to get it so that ,if you rotate one inbus, all rotate.

    DSCF0018

    DSCF0019

    DSCF0020

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Thanks all for the kudos. :p

    @dim3ntioneer - I think I would be ejected from being a jedi for neglecting my lightsaber to that level of rustyness. :oops:

    @Aaron - that's a clever solve! Love seeing stuff that's well designed for function... Just makes you appreciate all the little things.

    @takei that's cool! does it rotate smoothly?

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now

    ×
    ×
    • Create New...