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Posted · Post your latest print!

@Adam Beanish: Very cool design and nice print :)

Again a lot of nice prints this weekend :)

From my side i've been printing with the new Colorfabb colors i received last week.

Intense Green, very nice color:

The well known frog (best suited for this color):

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A customised Raspberry Case for a fan of One piece

 

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Mint Turquoise:

 

The colonel:

 

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And Emmet's Gear Cube:

 

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Last but not least, i tried WoodFill Fine, was a little stressed because of the things i read concerning woodfill (nozzle cloggs etc) but gave it a go. Used to profile from colorfabb's website.

 

0.27mm layers speed 50mm/s and temperature was 220°c i didn't experiment with the filament temp. Buildplate at 60°c (not needed but didn't want to play with glue).

 

First print:

 

Cute octopus says hi with 0 infill:

 

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A little timelapse with my raspicam:

 

 

 

A nice owl with 0 infill

 

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Timelapse:

 

 

 

No problems at all with these to prints. The owl took around 4 hours to finish and ended up really well. Surprised by the nice surface. The big layers (0.27mm) don't show on big surfaces. Had a little ugly finish on some overhangs but was probably due to to high speed. Overall very happy with the product. And it feels good when you touch it. Definitely not my last woodfill print.

 

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    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

    Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

    I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

    Posted Images

    Posted · Post your latest print!

    So many great submissions since I last checked this thread! We are all makers on the weekend it seems.

    @Lennart Bruggink - I just started Mass Effect 2. NO SPOILERS!!! lol. looks like you are really improving the model in post. Keep it up! It would be neat to print a very thin silver or clear PLZ OmniTool and use and LED or something to light it up.

    @Chrisp - Wonderful idea and I love that it hqas a bit of flex. I may use this in the future since my GF doesn't like bracelets that move around.

    @LeoDDC - That looks like it's going to be a nice print. What do you plan on doing with it?

    I like to time lapse my prints, but I had to use a huge tripod in order to get my GoPro where I wanted it. I printed a case and arm to get it close to the action and take up very little space. Here is the time lapse with the files in the description.

     

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Make a female Shepard please!!!

     

    That's a model I unfortunately do not have...

    i've got EDI, wrex, krogan female, nemesis, liara, mordin, tali.

    should I want more, I got to look at Ian nicely;)

    @ Ian,

    Yeah, explain how it should work! love the design!

    cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    The design works this way.

    You can click off the front easily.

    Then release the left arm.

    Left arm rises up opening between left and right arm.

    Load any filament into the centre and push it up a little into the bottom of the bowden tube.

    Then return the left arm and lock it into the according filament type position.

    The whole design is mounted on two existing screws going to the right of the stepper motor.

    The power is directly fed from the stepper into the bottom fixed right gear. The arm system is designed to accomodate any filament and still keep gear contact.. so the power is distributed to both arms equally.

    Then the filament is very confortable held my the the outside profile of the lego rubber belts.

    The power and traction is equal over a much much larger area.

    Because the material is initally fed into the bowen.. the material does not move out of the mechanism. it follows because there is equal power being added to the complete filament piece and not only one or two points.

    I want to find smaller good quality rubber belts and then make this simple design maybe 1 third the size.. then it becomes very practical and very sexy....

    But it works great and is super simple in concept :smile:

    Ian :smile:

    ps.... the best system I found for using the round bolt coming out of the stepper feeder was actually to keep the knurled bolt tightly on there and actually design my profile with the grub screw into the back of my design and use that as the grip connector to drive my power drive ! Use the design.. dont fight it ;-)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Nateokane

    That`s a great timelapse. oh you make me wanna buy a gopro :)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    So many great submissions since I last checked this thread! We are all makers on the weekend it seems.

    @Lennart Bruggink - I just started Mass Effect 2. NO SPOILERS!!! lol. looks like you are really improving the model in post. Keep it up! It would be neat to print a very thin silver or clear PLZ OmniTool and use and LED or something to light it up.

     

    ps.. my advice for ME2, do EVERY sidequest and finish all your upgrades, if you want to import to ME3 ;)

    I have looked online, there are a lot of cosplayers who made "sort of"real life omnitools. check it out!

    cheers!

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

     

    @Ian that's a very interesting design! I would like to see it in action. Can you post a video of just that?

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Just a short rough print...

    Needed a navigation for an old BMW E46 so i made a plug and play version for the HTC One. Just clip it in the ventilation and everything is fine:)

    2

    3

    6

    Took a model from GrabCAD to realize it, works just perfect.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    PLA or ABS?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @Nicolinux

    ABS would be better for this print but I'm empty, it is made out of PLA. But the fitting is just perfect. Problem for this kind of stuff is the shrinkage, it is not possible to just take a model of the mobile and do a boolean. I had to postprocess the surfaces, but it worked just fine.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I asked because the hot air might soften the holder when you use the ventilation system. Direct sun light might be a problem too.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Upps, misinterpreted;) But yeah, had that in my mind too. But I don't use it often. It is also not always plugged in, I just put it on in case I need it and therefore I think it should work. I'll try it;)

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Been having so much fun with this new build plate and flexible PLA that I had to print some vibration isolaters.

    20140519 163631

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    The build plate is my favorite new item due to it's overall simplicity. No more using glue or heated bed or worrying about my prints adhering properly. The biggest improvement is the time saved by not using the heated bed. Prints start in about 1 minute or less. (I used to wait 5-8 minutes for the build plate to heat up)

    20140519 164512

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Wow, is it really that good? How about long, thin objects? Do you have to use brim?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Well, although our Independence Day is over, I couldn't resist the attempt to play with multiple filaments colors in one print.

    The "Pause at height" plugin did not pause in my case for whatever reason (Cura 14.04RC1), but it was possible to detect the right time for the color change by the head moving away for a few seconds before continuing to print.

    IMG 8528 Medium

    Now, adding a Star of David onto the stretchlet might be a bit more challenging on UM2. Well, for me, at least. :)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Been having so much fun with this new build plate and flexible PLA that I had to print some vibration isolaters.

     

     

    The build plate is my favorite new item due to it's overall simplicity. No more using glue or heated bed or worrying about my prints adhering properly. The biggest improvement is the time saved by not using the heated bed. Prints start in about 1 minute or less. (I used to wait 5-8 minutes for the build plate to heat up)

     

    Good design. Are they useful for the UM2?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Wow, is it really that good? How about long, thin objects? Do you have to use brim?

     

    The feet underneath touching the build plate are only 2mm thick. I used brim on my first print with the white pla, but it was not needed. I haven't tested a long thin object, but im sure it will adhere, this plate is awesome. I forgot to mention that you can use both sides of plate as well.

     

    Good design. Are they useful for the UM2?

     

    I'm using it on my UM2 in the pic above.

    It fits right in place of the glass, just slide the glass out and the fibrous plate back in then secure clips. It's the same exact thickness as the glass.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I'm using it on my UM2 in the pic above.

    It fits right in place of the glass, just slide the glass out and the fibrous plate back in then secure clips. It's the same exact thickness as the glass.

     

    Nice!

    Any link?

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I've missed something here, what's this build plate? where'd you find it?

    Cheers,

    Paul.

     

    Been having so much fun with this new build plate and flexible PLA that I had to print some vibration isolaters.

     

     

    The build plate is my favorite new item due to it's overall simplicity. No more using glue or heated bed or worrying about my prints adhering properly. The biggest improvement is the time saved by not using the heated bed. Prints start in about 1 minute or less. (I used to wait 5-8 minutes for the build plate to heat up)

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Dider Kien: Thanks. Those Colorfabb prints look great. The green colour frog is tempting me to buy that colour. Always good to see time lapse prints.

    LeoDCC: Thanks for testing the plastic types, had a generic plastic sample from iMakr I think it's the same generic one you used but in light blue. It has a nice translucency when held close to a light. It also had a cleaner surface.

    Cool work on your blog, would be nice to see how your Lunch Time alien would look like printed.

    Braddock: Nice work on your website. Great Stalker beast print.

    Thanks for the print settings for creating a hollow model. I used them on the Slithe print.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I've missed something here, what's this build plate? where'd you find it?

    Cheers,

    Paul.

     

    Paul & ProfePaco:

    Here is the link http://printinz.com/

    They contacted me about using this build plate and in return I am giving them my thoughts and experiences with it. I live close to the distributor in the U.S. It just so happens this build plate is much better than expected and I see myself using it from now on instead of glass. Everything can be found about it on the website above.

    Here's what it looks like installed

    20140515 171918

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Oh, I also forgot to mention that I totally redesigned the workstation that was taken down from youmagine.

    Here is my current progress. 100% working, but I need to add to the top of the carriage.

    I redesigned everything. (It's starting to look and feel very sexy!) :cool:

    It spins on axis where the dremel is mounted and where the rods sit in the base.

    *The dremel mount now has even support, proper ventilation for the exhaust fans, and the cap can be screwed back on to secure the dremel in place better.

    *Instead of using gears, I designed some cylinders with sleeves and holes every 15 degrees with a nut secured inside to lock in the all-thread attached to the knob.

    *The carriage no longer uses linear bearings! I designed a unique channel all the way through the carriage to slide up and down the rods.

    *Epoxy is no longer needed, as the back/top knob holds everything in place when tightened.

    *The back/bottom knob on the carriage uses the same method as the last design, where a nut is mounted inside so pressure can be applied to the rods and hold the carriage in place.

    *Here's the biggest change, yet the best one. The base is much smaller and sleeker cutting the print time and material in half. Also the Cylinders that hold the rods are printed separately, then attached later when the base is screwed into desk. the green cylinder in the pic rotates 360 degrees, but only locks in forward facing or sideways.(i might change this to be every 15 degrees later) There is a 608 skate bearing mounted underneath the cylinder to help is spin freely.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    I will most likely share these files soon, I just need to use it for a while and make sure it's complete.

     

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    That looks great! I saw that on youmagine and I have a dremel, I just never know what to do with it...

    Is it stable?

     

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