Post your latest print!

[DidierKlein 729]

Very neat if it's not painted great job

I played a bit with filaments these days. It's been a couple of times i wanted to try this, i was pretty sure it wouldn't work very good but i gave it a try :mrgreen:

So i cut some small sections of filaments (between 5cm and 15cm) and i inserted them in the bowden tube. The i inserted the filament to have the feeder push.

Here's a timelapse of the result

 

 

[valcrow 144]

That's really cool! what happens if it retracts on the UM robot?

I like how even in timelapse the vase looked like it was going around in a smooth motion.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

You have to disable retraction of course

And yes the vase timelapse i like it too it's the spiralize option that makes it look like this it's fun

 

[conz 0]

@Didier, @Valcrow:

Yesterday I stumbled upon this tool:

http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/7/8/endless-filament-with-the-fuse-welder

EDIT (more info): https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/fuse-welding-filament-clamp-for-3d-printers

With welded filament the retraction would work.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Nice

There's also this:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-joiner-for-multicoloured-printed-3d-objects

The thing here is that i'm limited with the size of the bowden tube or else i have to pause the print and insert more filament pieces and resume the print which would be possible but inserting small pieces of filaments in the bowden tube is a pain in the @ss

 

[skint 61]

Didier, that`s awesome.

I did something similar a few weeks ago, but mine was mainly by accident. Using faberdashery I had a small twist in the filament which I noticed as a print was coming to an end. It was NOT going to finish the print before the twist interfered.

So... I heated up the soldering iron, trimmed the filament off at the point of twist and then joined an extra piece of filament using the heated soldering iron, amazingly it worked...but I had a black & blue print haha.

 

[tommyph1208 55]

You have to disable retraction of course

 

And yes the vase timelapse i like it too it's the spiralize option that makes it look like this it's fun

 

Do you actually have to disable it?

I would imagine that a tiny amount of retraction would still work here, just to release preassure from the nozzle chamber...

[travis-womack 6]

I know this is not as exciting as some of the other stuff in here, but I have only had my printer for a few weeks now. It's my first print that I think came out really well.

 

 

[skint 61]

Looks great Travis. Does it work ?

I must get around to printing one of those one day!

 

[travis-womack 6]

@Skint It works flawlessly now. I had to push it harder for a few minutes to get it going, but now it just spins. I started the heart version for my wife right after I pulled the cube off also. You should print one for sure. They are a lot of fun!

 

[ian 32]

 

My interpretation of the workhorse of the wehrmacht. Panzer IV. Currently its lacking pintle MG34 and headlights. Its fully poseable and has working threads.

Me and the SO paid a visit to the german panzer museum in Münster, and filled a bunch of CF cards with pictures, so currently om working towards modelling a full set of wehrmacht vehicles.

Modelled in solidworks, sliced in cura, printed on ultimaker, glued together by me!

 

I do admit I am a monster world war two history fan... and when i saw this just now... i almost browned by trousers... LOL

Are you going to share the printable models ?

Do you think its possible to 3d print using an ultimaker.. a VW kubelwagon ??? maybe with the big fat afrika korp wheels on it... ?... oh the possabilities...

Also where did you get all the exact technical specifications to design the model ? It looks very accurate...

so... trousers now browned.. LOLL... thanks a million for sharing this really impressive print !!!

Ian

ps. my militay photo website if your interested ! www.pixpast.com

 

[travis-womack 6]

My wife saw that gear cube I printed and immediately wanted one. I printed her a heart instead. She is ecstatic! I love this printer.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuNI36yKMeo&feature=youtu.be

 

[skint 61]

I love it. I will print a heart gear later too

 

[braddock 1]

Nice results with Colorfabb Bronze-Fill

 

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

@braddock: scanned or modelled? Very nice anyway... :-P

 

[braddock 1]

It's a scan, there's quite a few on this site. They're not print ready though, I spent a bit of time in ZBrush cleaning this up, increasing wall thicknesses and filling holes.

http://www.digimorph.org/resources/STLs.phtml%C2%A0

 

[bauermaker 0]

@braddock: awesome, what size is it and what layer height did you use ? i assume the red tint comes from your special antique patina, could you maybe post a link ... thx

I printed the eagle mascot for tonights WorldCup final.

Layer height 0.1, polished with steel wool and the dremel, then i painted on some green rust.

i didnt use any sandpaper or paint thinner on the model, so its a little rougher.

 

[braddock 1]

Nice print! I just use the same techniques I use for cold casting, no sanding, just steel wool, and a bit of dremel in the tight places.

The print is about 90mm long and printed at 0.08

The patina I use is re labeled by the company I buy it from here in Sydney, but I'm pretty sure it's Sculpt Nouveau Antique Black.

https://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=37&category=6

 

 

@braddock: awesome, what size is it and what layer height did you use ? i assume the red tint comes from your special antique patina, could you maybe post a link ... thx

I printed the eagle mascot for tonights WorldCup final.

Layer height 0.1, polished with steel wool and the dremel, then i painted on some green rust.

i didnt use any sandpaper or paint thinner on the model, so its a little rougher.

 

[bauermaker 0]

@braddock: thanks for the info

 

[valcrow 144]

Nice prints! those bronze fill really puts a unique look to it... not very printy at all!

 

[Blizz 53]

@Travis: Thanks for the geared heart... My wife was looking over my shoulder when I was reading this topic and now I have to print it too!

Anyway: I didn't enable rafting so some of the pins got loose after about half an hour of printing. I didn't notice right away so the printhead moved them and "fused" them with one if the teeth of the gear next to it.

The rest was still in fairly good shape so I didn't want to restart everything.

So I paused the print and cut off the fused and broken parts. Since the head was already fairly high I would never get adhesion while printing the rest of 3 pins I had to remove. So I got out the trusty 3Doodler and put a bunch of transparent PLA on the bed of about the same height so it could continue printing without moving it around every time:

It printed through the night and everything else is looking fairly well. Too bad I have some temperature/feed problems after a couple layers. Luckily that should all be on the inside of the final piece and not that visible

 

[Blizz 53]

What dremel bits do you guys use for the cleanup? No matter what I try, I always end up with burnt plastic

 

[skint 61]

@Braddock that print is so cool! I need to replicate this with a TREX skull lol. Wierd, but I have this kind of inner love going on for bones :???: , especially dino`s !

 

[braddock 1]

there's a T-rex skull on thingiverse Skint. I've seen it printed a few times. Looks more modeled than scanned, but still looks good.

 

 

[bauermaker 0]

Nice prints! those bronze fill really puts a unique look to it... not very printy at all!

 

yeah, its insane, if you print with 0.06 mm there are no visible print lines, and for me it prints more reliably and is way better to post process than woodfill.