@Wallen is that first shot really just after printing? It all looks so smooth... Awesome job!
@Wallen is that first shot really just after printing? It all looks so smooth... Awesome job!
@Wallen is that first shot really just after printing? It all looks so smooth... Awesome job!
Hehe
Maybe a small picture and less than maximal focus makes things look smoother that it is.
I tried to create the model in a way that should print well without a lot of extra support and as a single piece.
And most of the model is quite smooth, printed with 0.1mm layer at 30mm/sec.
But there are some areas that print with less quality(right hand and backside of left upper arm being the weakest points).
Well silky smooth or not, I really like the model
What dremel bits do you guys use for the cleanup? No matter what I try, I always end up with burnt plastic
Anything that grinds down the surface will heat the plastic.
Teoretically you would want something that cuts rather then grind.
So, some kind of rotating file, as sharp as possible and as large diameter as possible is my suggestion.
Finished it, only postprocessing with the dremel, no sandiong, no steel wool, no polish, more info here
@Blizz Awesome! My wife loves hers. She is a hit at work with all the things I have been printing. Somehow she has gotten me to print more things for her than I have for myself lol. In fact she has an iphone case printing as we speak.
I have been putting a raft under everything lately. I seem to have a better print success with it in place. Especially with small stuff. Sucks that it wastes extra filament though. I might try a different surface soon.
Did you end up with a nice working gear heart?
@Wallen
I am loving the quality of that print. I have not managed to get anything that clean from my printer yet. The slower I make my printer, the the better it seems to get though.
@Travis for a full 5 minutes yes
I oiled it up a bit internally when assembling hoping for smoother movement. Unfortunately while trying to rotate things it "flew" out of my hand and the top gear broke a tooth on landing. I probably had too much oil left on my hands (Lets just ignore the clumsiness for now).
Guess I have to print that one again, but didn't have time yesterday as I had to bag my printer for tonights' meet. It'll probably be something for tomorrow.
Ow btw: I have exactly the same issue: More than half of my prints are because of the "oooh"s and "aaah"s of my better half hehe.
Hello there,
I just introduce my last impression. This is a tunnel entry for the model train.
For the record, I wanted to show with a designer colleague and specialist model trains that the achievement of set pieces could be revolutionized with 3D printing.
I decision to make an entry tunnel Blender 2.71 (16 hours modeling). I make each stone one by one. I udder care to respect the SNCF standards to be as detailed as possible.
I cut through the Cura collectible then I started printing 8 hours. I was forced to put a brim to avoid décolement due to the length of printing.
Now here is the result in picture.
That's some intense stone modelling! looks great though so I guess it's worth it!
Another Bronze fill print. Bottle Nose Dolphin.
0.08 @ 230 - 100mm long.
Bronzefill looks really incredible how much time do you need to post process the print to get this nice result?
Hello there,
I just introduce my last impression. This is a tunnel entry for the model train.
For the record, I wanted to show with a designer colleague and specialist model trains that the achievement of set pieces could be revolutionized with 3D printing.
I decision to make an entry tunnel Blender 2.71 (16 hours modeling). I make each stone one by one. I udder care to respect the SNCF standards to be as detailed as possible.
I cut through the Cura collectible then I started printing 8 hours. I was forced to put a brim to avoid décolement due to the length of printing.
Now here is the result in picture.
Crazy, no stringing at all. How did you print it? (print settings).
Here are the garage door buttons installed. They could use a little more clearance around the edges, but I might reprint them.
That's an amazing piece, Braddock.
Are those parts of a bigger project on skulls?
It would be a great help to know how you eventually sliced and oriented the pieces on the bed of the printer, I see overhangs everywhere, it would be a nightmare to me.
Hey Alessandro, I printed at an angle of about 60 degrees, nose pointing up with supports. I turned off retraction also, which makes for a bit more cleanup, but overall less chance of any problems printing.
The overhangs were quite good, but also, Bronze-fill smooths much easier, this isn't sanded at all, just rubbed back with steel wool.
I used the default settings. Against by a "brim" has been necesary.
Layer height : 0.1
Shell trickness : 0.8
Enable rétractation : On
Bottom / Top trickness : 0.6
Fil density % : 20
Print speed mm/s : 50
Support type : None
Plateform adhesion type : Brim
For details, they realy modeled one at a time over several hours. The plate is 112 mm high and 160 mm wide.
In general, I thank you for your comments and encouragement.
Just wanted to share a couple of items i have made for my warhammer models. i have made a new Gatling gun and a back pack to hold ammo.
great prints
just another note on Bronze-fill, it most definitely smooths easier than regular PLA, even with just some steel wool buffing, the print lines are not visible at all, so, it may be a better material to use if you're planning to create molds of your parts.
If colorfabb produce an iron base version, you should get these same properties, but at a reduced cost, as iron powder is less expensive.
just another note on Bronze-fill, it most definitely smooths easier than regular PLA, even with just some steel wool buffing, the print lines are not visible at all, so, it may be a better material to use if you're planning to create molds of your parts.
If colorfabb produce an iron base version, you should get these same properties, but at a reduced cost, as iron powder is less expensive.
I second everything braddock says and I would go so far as to demand from colorfabb to release a cheaper alternative :wink:
For me this is a huge gamechanger, finally being able to print high quality looking items without the need of alot of post processing.
Thanks Braddock!
I should definely try it out.
I'm using colorfabb white filament at the moment because it's easier to smooth than other brands, but if you say this bronze it's even easier, it may be the right solution.
Here is my first bronzeFill print !
the end cap of the lamp is not sanded nor polished to show the difference
whew been away too long too, so..
Love the painted no face cop
Love the painted smile guy
Love all the prints in bronze
LOVE 3D printing!
Got me some bronzefill too to experiment with polishing methods. but that's something for later.
Right now my attention is on this project:
Cheers!
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