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Posted · Post your latest print!

Wow that is one heck of a great print/gift! Do I spot the geared vase from Jelle@protospace?

The roses:O so pretty!

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Thanks Titus.

Yeah it's the gearvase indeed. The couple in question spotted the vase on my 3d printed album on FB and expressed their love for it, hence the idea was born. :)

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Those roses look familiar :-) they look great in that vase.

Working on a rose project for someone special myself, printing them slow, 5 hours for two.

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Blizz - thanks! 50mm/s - surprisingly good quality at that speed, as it seems. I printed once the stems with thorns without any supports and it turned out OK. Raft was used to keep them secured during the print. The blessings note was printed, too, wasn't it?

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I've done another iteration of my cellphone wallet case. This is also my first prints with ABS!

TinLynx CaseWallet 1

TinLynx CaseWallet 11

TinLynx CaseWallet 9

TinLynx CaseWallet 3

GalaxyNexus CaseWallet V3 Open3

TinLynx CaseWallet printing

Rule #1 when printing with ABS should be any printed upgrades you've made on the printhead with PLA will not live long. My fan duct melted, Then I was confused why I had to keep on leveling the bed. My printheat was melting! Now my new printhead is ABS but all cracked and held together with epoxy. My exhaust fan setup is too strong for ABS so I've had to move my printer into the bathroom so I can run it without the fan. Lastly Getting ABS to stick to the bed worried me in the beginning.

Printing this part in ABS wasn't easy but the results look great!

I'm now looking into injection molding for the next step.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Looks great! especially with maple syrup flavored Canadian plastic funny money. :)

Surprised how well you got ABS to print on a UM1 despite the melting issues.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Canadian grade maple syrup is my secret additive in making it stick!

maplesyrup.jpg

I find the warping and lifting at the corners can be controlled with lots of attached surface area to the bed and the goo. You can see cracking all around the base though. I’m going to try heating the build area more to hopefully fix that.

When printing the case compartment, I had to use lots of generated support material under it. But the corners still lifted because there wasn’t any solid foundation to stop them. Next time I’ll try adding thick legs into the model in the corners I remove later and hopefully they don’t crack in half mid print.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Since i am swamped with worked right now, I didnt have much time to do my usual sanding and priming so i gave Acetone Vapor smoothing a try.

It took away too much detail but still the smoothnes is amazing, and it only takes 15 minutes. :)

Boba

Getting the ABS to print smoothly was a bit more difficult but after a few failed attempts i found the perfect settings.

0.4 Nozzle

No Fan

250 first layer, 230 for the rest

70 degrees for the heated bed

30mms

115 % flow

printed in a very small room (Speiseklammer) without airflow using ABS Deluxe (less warping and consistent diameter)

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

So after almost 2 months of printing nothing. I just clicked on my ultimaker 2 last night and printed this amazing little monster character.

I was very impressed that after 2 months of nothing being used.. that the machine was able to be switched on and print something of this high quality without any preparation....

BRAVO !!! Ultimaker !!

Ian :smile:

ultimaker2.jpg

www.ultimaker2.com

 

I just showed this to a good friend when I was in Dusseldorf and he couldnt stop laughing.. so guess who is getting a cool 3d printed surprise in the post this week !

I still love it when people handle ultimaker made models and just wonder... how the hell that was done.... MAGIC....

Ian

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I really like the way this came out, so I'm sharing. :)

Printed on an Ultimaker Original at full build volume. 0.8mm nozzle. 0.2mm layer height. colorfabb woodfill filament.

Lighter color is as-printed. Darker is after stain with Red Mahogany wood stain.

Model is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:438143

10633317_319949104840307_6844582442103808737_o.jpg

10269241_319949098173641_7593182885114585278_o.jpg

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

great print !!! a good reminder of how amazing the prints can come from a good old standard ultimaker 1

Ian

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

It got out dirtier than I thought it would be (maybe it is related to internal support column breaking off, dunno), but I also was surprised that these three parts actually working together, despite being printed at 1:2 size.0_141262_513ced33_XXXL.jpg

 

the splitter in the visor must have been a bloody nightmare to print and clean... would it not have been better to do it separately ?

Ian

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I modeled and printed the logo from cinemassacre.com. My plan is to give this print to the owner of the site at the end of the week at a convention in Seattle. I will post making of time lapse videos next week sometime. Let me know what you guys think.

Cinemassacre Logo

Cinemassacre Logo

Cinemassacre Logo

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

@printedsolid great print! It gave me the need to try woodfill again.

I noticed that bronzefill and woodfill dont like printing at slow speed at least for me. I have yet to finalize the test with bronze but with woodfill fine I cant print without clogging under 45 mm/s @0.2 layer height. Maybe if I print thicker layers I'll be able to slow down a bit but I'm happy that for the now I can do a print without having to unclog even once and waste a lot of time staring at the printer (not that I dont like to do that :)).

So to validate I did a Ulti Robot and to celebrate did a 2X Ulti Robot that ended up being a Frankenstein with a scar around the skull :D

IMG 20140826 230945

 

Settings:

nozzle 0.4mm

0.2 layers

45mm/s

retraction off

travel speed 100mm/s

215C/60C with glue

 

I'm pretty sure I wont get any under extrusion at all at 50mm/s.

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

Look what I finally found in my UM2:

Pink Unicorn

 

To be honest:

- It's not my design (Thingiverse 9084)

- I forgot support so it has a little beard

- the horn looks - uhhmm - very naturally grown...

 

But: Guess what software it was sliced with... :shock:

 

Yes:

Cura Pink Unicorn

(I felt free to download Cura Pink Unicorn from Github and to compile the PU-CuraEngine; but don't expect a finalized software, it's just a rough skeleton and a lot of features are still missing (but you get quite some bugs for free ;) ); The point is: Daid is doing a very great job and makes nice progresses but we all should remind ourselves that he is a software engineer and not a wizard :lol: ).

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

classic... stunning... beautiful !!

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!

question is... do I mean your user photo ?... or your prints ! LOL

 

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Posted · Post your latest print!
question is... do I mean your user photo ?... or your prints ! LOL

 

Ian you naughty dog :)

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Posted · Post your latest print!

I just realized how many Canadians there are on here. Hi fellow Canucks! :p

Haven't posted anything on here a while it seems :/ I didn't design this, but we needed a knife for a friend's film so I printed a couple on the day before the shoot and quickly sprayed it down with some paint. Should be good enough I hope!

Printed on UM2 with UM pearl (really nice natural colour)

The glass bed is really nice for halfing prints. I was never able to do this with the UM1 the seam would just be too large on blue tape.

IMG_20140829_153357_edit-1024x576.jpg

painted

IMG_20140829_235521-1024x576.jpg

 

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