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Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

I printed a holder yesterday. The print ran overnight, so I only noticed this morning that I could throw the part away straight away.

As you can see in the pictures, there is a gap all around, but it does NOT extend to the infill, ONLY to the walls. As you can also see, I can easily push a piece of paper through the gap from the rear slot to the outside.

What's interesting is that this gap is exactly at the same height as the inner edge/base of the rear slot.

The CAD drawing is OK; checked several times. Also, after slicing in CURA, this gap is not visible in the preview.

 

IMG_20250130_083223.thumb.jpg.4b4039422d4840a7c6f8c3528c38ad4c.jpg

 

It can't be a coincidence that it's exactly in that spot?! I'd like to rule out a clogged nozzle or jammed filament roll here, since the infill is perfectly fine; that can't have been it.

 

Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Can it be a slicing-error / bug?

Dusche, Halter 0v1.stl

Edited by CBX_Micha
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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(
    4 hours ago, CBX_Micha said:

    t can't be a coincidence that it's exactly in that spot?!

    It can, but the best way to find out is to try again. Don't forget 🐄🥈Slashee's Sliver Rule: Small scale testing is your friend. You don't need to do the whole print. Just slice it using the exact same settings but move it down through the build plate so that it'll start a little bit before the problem occurs.

     

    4 hours ago, CBX_Micha said:

    I'd like to rule out a clogged nozzle or jammed filament roll here, since the infill is perfectly fine; that can't have been it.

    Depending on your print settings, that in itself doesn't rule out a problem there. The wall will have a different flow rate to the infill.

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    The gcode I generated with your model doesn't show any problems.  The Z progresses upward and there are inner and outer walls on all layers.  The flow rate is consistent between 4.06 and 4.15 mm³/sec (using my settings).

    Post that "Bad" gcode file.  I can analyze the flows with MS Excel, and the toolpaths with AutoCad.

     

    If the Cura preview looks OK then there aren't likely to be problems in the Gcode.  The preview function certainly isn't perfect but it does get toolpaths and extrusions right.

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    Thanks for your tips and opinions on this.

    I'm printing it again at the moment. In 20 minutes or so I'll get to the problematic area, then I'll report back.

    I've broken open the defective part. The infill is constant throughout. Since I'm using a dual-gear extruder here, I've never noticed any problems with different flow rates or similar things.

    I'm getting the G-code of the defective part from the Repetier archive; it should work too. But I can't do that until this print is finished

     

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    Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

    YAPP! Do you know Allen personally? I met him twice years ago at a CBX meeting; funny guy with a lot of knowledge about the legendary "X". Is Allen still alive? Haven't read/hear nothing about him since years...
    I "only" have 22 Honda cylinders, divided into CB1, CB3, SC06 and my wife's 550 CBX. I've left out the "other brands" 😉 

    EDIT: Have forgotten the VF600... So it's then 26 Cylinders of the same brand ^^

     

    BTT:

    Test print #2 is done, and it seems that there are sometimes under extruding. Now the lines are a little deeper and the infill have many holes...

    What I have overseen is that I use another filament brand. I have now inc the extruding rate a little and started test print #3 right now... We will se...

    3dp.jpg

    Edited by CBX_Micha
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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    I didn't think it would be in the Gcode.

    Do you have "Connect Infill Lines" checked?  It can really cut down on the number of retractions in the Infill.

     

    Regarding the bikes, I have a friend who has owned 4 or 5 CBX's.  He loved them (big power) and hated them (squirrely frames).  He moved over to naked goldwings.  One of those is a nitrous equipped 1000 and another is a 1200 mashed into a 1000 frame.  The 1200 is really quick.

     

    I've got 10 cylinders of Goldwings and 1 more in a 50cc motorized bicycle I built.  My "Multiple Bike Syndrome" isn't near as bad as yours.

    I name everything.  This is "White Trash" and "Brutus Maximus".

    MBS_0043.thumb.JPG.7128c17d92f522e9677332eba57a596f.JPG

     

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    Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

    No, I haven't tick "connect infill lines". I'm sure I never have ticked it. But while the infill is printed I have never seen a retract. Maybe it is due I print the walls 1st and then the infill? I don't know.
    But anyway... That are my defaults so far and I've never seen problems like this before...

     

    LOL Good names for it 😁 Most I Ride the SC06 named "die Dicke" (the Fat) or the open FJ1300 named "Spaß Moped" (fun moped)... Q is how long I can ride them so far... To get old isn't so funny 🙄

    Unfortunately, we can't do as much here in Germany as in other countries, especially not as much as in the UK or the US. Even the smallest things lead to horrendous penalties and an exorbitant amount of bureaucracy... But that is (hopefully) changing. The wind is changing everywhere...

    BTW: Our Daughter, meanwhile an adult and driving a bike itself, ride with us as sozia since she was 3y/o

    img-2025-01-30-15-33-15.png

    Edited by CBX_Micha
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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    In general, if you are underextruding, something is wrong hardware wise or you are printing "too cold/too fast".  I would slow it down by 50%.  I know it sucks when it takes twice as long so I'd also look into why it might be underextruding.  I think the infill is printed much faster by default so maybe that's related but you are probably "on the edge" if it's underextruding infill.

     

    You can increase flow to about 110%.  Any more than that and you risk complete filament grinding failed print.

     

    It's possible for a filament tangle (just one example of brief underextrusion) to occur while printing the wall but not the infill. Just because it fixed itself after a few seconds.

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    Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

    Yes, I have had the same idea. Before I have print with 90mm/s (so infill was at 150mm/s) and now I'm down to 60mm/s (100mm/s infill) and 105% flow.

    22 minutes ago, gr5 said:

    It's possible for a filament tangle

    ... the extruder is strong enough to tear the filament or tear off the holder with the spool; I've had that happen before. Therefore, I don't believe in a slowdown, even if only for a short time...

    Edited by CBX_Micha
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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    When I print "text", I want retractions between the individual letters to they don't string together.  I might have "Max Comb Distance with No Retraction" set very low (like 1.0).  That makes for a lot of retractions in the infill for those models.  Using "Connect Infill Lines" reduces the amount of non-extrusion travel moves in the Infill and so reduces the number of retractions. 

     

    I had an odd problem.  On certain prints the filament wound get "accordioned" within the bowden tube and all the extra friction those kinks caused would create under-extrusion and skipped steps.  Reducing the spring tension on the extruder seems to have cured that.  The problem was really bad with PETG which might be because it is softer than PLA and allowed the teeth of the extruder gear to bite deeper causing the filament to become oval shaped.  At least that's what I think was happening.  Fortunately, it seems to have gone away with the lessened pressure by the extruder gear.  TPU prints better as well.

    The point of that is - having an extruder that can pull the spool off the machine might not be that great of a thing.

     

    In closing,

    "Getting old ain't for sissies." - Phyllis Diller (RIP)

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    Yes, I can follow that. But I haven't tightened the spring much, so the filament stay near round, also after many retracts. The only thing that happens is a very rough surface. But since I'm using a direct extruder and not a Bowden, it's not noticeable. The extruder and hotend are connected with a brass tube that's about 40mm long.

     

    In the meantime, I've taken a look (I was just out with the big dog; unlike me, he doesn't mind the rain ^^). Now everything seems to be fine.

    I almost have the impression that it really is down to the other manufacturer of the filament. I always printed PETG from JAYO before, but have since switched to Geeetech due to a lack of availability. There do seem to be clear differences.

     

    1 hour ago, GregValiant said:

    In closing,

    "Getting old ain't for sissies." - Phyllis Diller (RIP)

    ... you can know that! 😉

    3dp.jpg

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(
    2 hours ago, CBX_Micha said:

    I almost have the impression that it really is down to the other manufacturer of the filament.

    Strong possibility, yes.  I find that 90% of PLA is all the same and prints the same but some PLA is definitely "different".  White filaments in particular have much more chalk (or something) in them and print the most weird but other manufacturers have "PLA" that just doesn't look, feel, or print like the PLA I'm used to (regardless of color).

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    I can't say that about PLA, as I hardly ever print with PLA. But with PETG it seems so...

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    " White filaments in particular have much more chalk (or something)..."

    I think it might be Titanium Oxide.  That's what is used as a colorizer in a lot of paints.  

     

    White filaments and I have come to an agreement.  I agreed to print them cooler, and they agreed not to not come out looking like crap.

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    Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

    LOL right. Good deal 😁
    Maybe tomorrow I will check the nozzle if they maybe not anymore a 0.4... It's just bras and not diamond...

     

    BTW:

    Does anyone have experience with nozzles that are equipped with ruby or steel inserts?

     

    img-2025-01-30-23-08-04.png

    img-2025-01-30-23-08-23.png

    Edited by CBX_Micha
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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(
    1 hour ago, CBX_Micha said:

    Does anyone have experience with nozzles that are equipped with ruby or steel inserts?

    Bit too expensive for me.

    ...just kidding, I can't get them. My E3V3SE takes a kind of nozzle which is used by exactly three models of Creality printers and no other printers whatsoever (it's just an MK8 with a slightly longer screw thread). The fanciest I've seen is "copper alloy" nozzles from Creality (and since brass is a copper alloy, I can't tell you how different these are except they're grey).

     

    I have a little experience with hardened steel nozzles. Specifically, trying to screw it far enough I stripped the threads in my aluminium heat block clean through so there was no chance it would ever hold onto any nozzle ever again.

     

    Creality, kids. You get what you pay for.

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    I have one hardened 0.4 steel nozzle and I never use it.  It was hard to dial in, and then I'd change to a brass 0.6 and have to dial everything back.  I'm guessing here and my guess is that it just doesn't transfer heat as well and the end of the nozzle is much cooler than a brass nozzle would be.

    I did wear a 0.4 brass nozzle quite a bit when printing a spool of glow-in-the-dark filament.

    I've found a carbon filled PETG that I like and I'm assuming it will cause faster wear, but I've got lots of brass nozzles.

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    ... so none of you have any real experience with the AirBrush and absolutely none with the ruby tips?
    I think I'll order some with the AirBrush nozzles and just test them out. Since my entire print head is my own design, as is the touch extension, I just need to attach a slightly longer carbon pen and then determine the new offset... EasyPeasy

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    A short OT:

     

    How can I prevent it from leaving a trail of smudges in the CURA settings when moving (here from one hole to the next)?

    I have already activated everything that has to do with retraction, but it still remains 😞

     

     

    img-2025-02-07-11-32-24.png

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    Not trying to question your ability (since you've shown plenty) but mind sharing a project file so we can make sure there isn't a 🤦‍♀️ sort of thing you've overlooked in the settings?

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(

    Here it is, at least with the last adjustment attempts.

    Base is a 0.3mm Nozzle and PETG.

     

     

    Shelly_Schnurschalter-Ruckwand.3mf

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    Posted · Next crazy thing :(
    4 hours ago, CBX_Micha said:

    How can I prevent it from leaving a trail of smudges in the CURA settings when moving (here from one hole to the next)?

    I have already activated everything that has to do with retraction, but it still remains

    It might be that you need to disable "combing".  Try that.

     

    But before you do - in PREVIEW mode, look at those moves - travel moves are 2 different shades of blue.  Dark blue are non-retracting.  Light blue are retracting.  Confirm that those are non-retracting and then try disabling combing completely (at least initially) to see if those switch to light blue.  If so then there's your answer.

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    Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

    Ty  a lot. I will try that for the next print and report...

     

    Have try that with OFF, not on outside, and ON. I see the difference in the slicer. Seems To be the Problem. I will see next ...

    Edited by CBX_Micha
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    Posted (edited) · Next crazy thing :(

    Looks much better now! I have set it to "ON, but not on surfaces" and that works well so far.

    Many thx for the hint!

     

    Another OT:

    I often change the nozzle. With the same manufacturer, I often don't need to change anything in the Z offset, and if I do, then only minimally via BabyStep. But I also have nozzles from other manufacturers that differ significantly in length; sometimes up to 3mm.
    That's why I don't store the offset in Marlin (it simply says 0.0 there), but set the Z offset in CURA via "Start g-code" with M851.
    There I have several lines with the appropriate values for different nozzle types. I simply comment out what I haven't installed at the moment.

    Question:
    Can I use something like "IF ... THEN ... ELSE" in the start code, for example ...

     

    IF
    NozzleSize = 0.2 THEN M851Z-0.78
    ELSEIF
    NozzleSize = 0.3 THEN M851Z-0.48
    ELSEIF
    NozzleSize = ....

     

    ???

     

    (I just had to start over again. Broken wire in the cable harness to the print head... I have to think about more durable wires...)

    Edited by CBX_Micha
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