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Taylors Gregs Wades MK6 filament feed for Ultimaker (aka my

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Taylors Gregs Wades MK6 filament feed for Ultimaker (aka my new extruder - now released!)

Taylor Post replyApr 6 (12 days ago)

 

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Finally releasing my new filament feed replacement for the Ultimaker.

This is based on the MK5/MK6 drive gear from Makerbot (no more hobbed bolt) and the proven design of Greg's/Wade's extruder, that the reprap community has been using for years. Its all designed so the parts should be easy to find at a US hardware store, aside from the drive gear and bearings (which are available at MakerBot).

The thingiverse page is still very incomplete, but nonetheless I tried to get enough info to make your own. See a full description of the changes and features at the thing page here!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20850

 

A note about the release: It took me a while to get it tested properly, but I recently discovered the problems I was having were due to some issues with my hot end (bowden slipped, causing a plug. I was also having temperature issues), and as far as I can tell have nothing to do with this design. So I'm releasing it now for broader testing and feedback. As far as I can tell it should be awesome. I'm still sorting out which springs work best, but please give me feedback on the actual design and let me know what you think!

Also its still missing a quick release function, which I miss. But that can be added once more testing on the basic design has been done.

-Taylor

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OmmaGeek Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Taylor,

As I said in the otehr thread and on Thingiverse this rocks and once I

get the changes I need it will be a significant improvement over the

stock drive.

I rearranged my workspace to get more room. So, I had to recalibrate,

re-level, re-everything the printers. Now that one printer is

available I wanted to print the changes I made to your extruder

drive.

The main body I have changed to meet my needs and will start

printing. But the Ultimaker-Wades-Mount seems to have been manually

drawn in solidworks (I guess). I was going to simplify my changes and

use the small clip like the one on the hot end rather than the big one

that was in the T-Slot of the original wooden one. The small clip is

7MM. So I wanted to get the bracket with the top opening 7MM diameter

and the thickness roughly the same (6MM) to accommodate the clip. Is

the wades mount done in SCAD? If not is there a way I can get a

version with the hole 7MM diameter instead of 12/13MM (same center

line)?

Thanks,

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Taylor Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Glad you like it! Now that i've recalibrated and fixed my printer it seems to be working well for me too. You saw the note about NOT using E823.0 right? I'm using E805.0 now, but that was still not a super accurate cal. Have you come up with anything different for that?

And yeah, I drew the part in Solidworks - OpenSCAD is hell for me. I know most people don't have solidworks but I included IGES and STEP files for everything for easy importing into other CAD programs.

But yeah, thats a good point about the clip. I'd considered eliminating the retainer but I thought it would be complicated. I forgot that on the hot end its just a simple chamfered hole and thats it.

I can easily make the change and that would be a good addition to the design for people that don't want to mess with the stock adapter. Plus apparently not everyone got the same one.

But unfortunately I don't have my UM in front of me. Do you have the dimensions exactly? It seems like a 7mm dia x 6mm hole won't be sufficient. I think it needs a chamfer to retain the clip. If you can get some dimensions off your UM I can make the mods now, or I can measure it when I get home.

-Taylor

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Taylor Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Alright, I'll check out my UM when I get home. I actually got two of those bottom pieces. The normal one from the kit, and another one with the plastic pieces already installed, and it had a chamfer on one side.

And actually in the image you linked it looks like there is a chamfer. On the other side (where I expect it to be). See the hole just above the one where he's inserting the plastic bit? Well you can see the visible opening of the hole is black from the laser, but it changes color about 2mm in, whereas the outside of the part doesn't do that. I believe thats because the backside of the part is chamfered.

But if you want to test it, you can just print a small test piece with, say, a 10mm OD and a 7mm hole in it that is 6mm thick. Then see if it works. Or I'll have a look at it in an hour or so.

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Geo Hagen Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Taylor,

Do you know if your big gear wheel is usable in stead of the the standard wooden gear wheel from UM?

With same number of theets. diameter etc.

Are you using real teeths gears?

Since I am using retract lately I find there is to much play between the small gear wheel and the big wheel.

Geo.

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Taylor Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Hey Geo,

My big drive gear is bigger than stock. However the big drive gear actually is designed with a proper gear tooth profile. But then they don't compensate for the laser when they cut it and it gets undersized. No idea why the delrin gear isn't that way.

But I attached an STL of that gear here:

http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... a68c?hl=en

And it should work better than the stock gear, I think.

If you want to edit it more, I suggest downloading the 3D model of the Ultimaker from thingiverse and editing that one. And do you use solidworks? I have a proper solidworks 2012 model of the stock gear I used when trying to figure out the parameters of the stock gear.

-Taylor

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Taylor Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Ah crap, I got it all ready but realized you said SW 2011. I have 2012 and I can't back save it.

Well I included a STEP file for you in the zip file.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7569875/gears.zip

Note that my generated gear and the stock gear are on top of eachother in the assembly. I did that to make sure my generated gear was correct. Its not exact but its very very close. Just pull out the one with the arrows to edit. It will still be way easier than STL.

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Taylor Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Yeah....

Open solidworks 2011. Draw a circle and extrude a cylinder. Now save it, close Solidworks 2011 and open it in solidworks 2012. Make no changes. Hit "save". Close it, and try to open it in solidworks 2011. You can't.

They claim its because they're always adding new features, but somehow a simple cylinder magically needs to be changed every year. I wish someone would write a tool that cracked the format and allowed you to back-save things.

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I Robert I Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Thanks a lot, I'll have a look at it when I get back home, I'm sure

it'll work fine. I just wanted something more "clean" to start from.

As for not being able to export to an older format, wow, had no idea.

That's, how shall I put it, special...

On 10 Apr, 10:28, Taylor Alexander wrote:

> Ah crap, I got it all ready but realized you said SW 2011. I have 2012 and

> I can't back save it.

> Well I included a STEP file for you in the zip file.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7569875/gears.zip

 

>

> Note that my generated gear and the stock gear are on top of eachother in

> the assembly. I did that to make sure my generated gear was correct. Its

> not exact but its very very close. Just pull out the one with the arrows to

> edit. It will still be way easier than STL.

>

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OmmaGeek Post replyApr 10 (8 days ago)

 

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Taylor,

It appears that there needs be no chamfer. I did as suggested and the

clip fit nicely. It appears that there is a need for it to be at

minimum 7MM ID to get the clip in. The depth if the hole is really

4MM rather than 6 (unless chamfered for the 2MM). Unfortunately I

will need to cut my clip free of the test piece :)

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Taylor Post replyApr 12 (6 days ago)

 

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Well, the tube popping could be a sign that the new extruder is working so well that its no longer the weak point.

Or i could be that the new clip holder needs more work. For now lets not troubleshoot two things at once. I suggest going back to the fitting that came with your UM. what is the dimension of the fat part above the hex? I can generate a small STL that is just the portion that holds the fitting, so you can test it without printing a huge part. Also I bought another fitting at the hardware store and it also didn't fit in my design, so it might be the same as what you have. Unfortunately I don't have it with me (i'm at work for the next 6 or 7 hours) but if you can get dimensions I can generate the part now.

-Taylor

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