minimum layer time isn't an issue for this part as it takes more than 5 seconds per layer.
It is difficult to print "holes" or "openings" on a UM printer. I have tried this in the past. One solution is to print vertically - I think it will look much better if you print with the long, thin edge down. You will need brim.
Another solution is to use 2 colors. This will come out much better. Print the word "hello" in one color, then end the print, remove filament, put in new filament of contrasting color, then print a simple rectangle on top - you don't need to have the second part know about the letters. Here is an example:
To get the two prints to line up I made the words inside a box of equal size such that the second layer printed a rectangle, then I manually removed the second layer from the print with a text editor so that the print would halt before printing the second layer. That way when placed in Cura both prints were aligned even though they were sliced separately.
For the upper part it is better if you do a thick bottom layer - say .3mm so that there is more room for the plastic to squeeze around the letters and into the cracks. And print it slow although 30mm/sec is probably fine.
If you choose the 2 color method, please post results as I will have suggestions to improve it! Also you can print the second color *on top* instead of on the bottom if the top is flat. This would be most easily done using "pause at Z" and changing filament in the middle of the print.
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jameshs 42
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I think that your top/bottom layer is responsible for most of the artefacts.
I would go for Xmm bottom/top thickness height where X= the height of your proposed object
I would have 0 fill - this essentially produces a solid object as you have been trying to cover the top with a o.4mm thick layer of molten plastic!
For something this small I print cool and slow - cooler than your 220 - something like 210 if your machine can produce a noodle at that temperature.
And slightly faster than 10 as you don't want that hot nozzle on the layer too long - say 20mm/s
change all the speeds to 20.
then change the minimal layer time - I never remember which way, so I raise and lower it in Cura and see what the build time is - if the time goes UP then it is taking longer so this is the right way - basically on a small object you want to ensure that the nozzle gets clear of the filament to let it cool. (Though I don't fully know if that is the right direction
)
Have a go with some of those settings - but the main one is to go for 100% infill (by changing the top/bottom layer thickness.)
And the temp and see what happens.
I tend to write the settings that I am printing - so 210/20 for 210 degrees 20mm/s and you have a permanent record of what is going on.
James
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